I thought you knew going into this that BMW 7's are EXPENSIVE to maintain.
Also since pageking I have a weak and dying Ignition coil because I narrowed down everything else in my ignition.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiQUKV6wMoM[/media]
If you can't hear it, it does a 5 second loop of
vrrrrr vrr vrr vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Replaced spark plugs, wires are 6 months old, Dist cap and rotor spotless, original ignition coil, New ICU, Original Power Amplifier (car wont work at all if it broke).
Got the heater core out... only to discover that it was leaking from both the core AND the pipe that attaches to it and goes through the firewall. So now I have to wait to get a new pipe thing if I can even find one... fgsfds
[t]http://s6.tinypic.com/vxn776.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Siminov;39556209]I thought you knew going into this that BMW 7's are EXPENSIVE to maintain.
Also since pageking I have a weak and dying Ignition coil because I narrowed down everything else in my ignition.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiQUKV6wMoM[/media]
If you can't hear it, it does a 5 second loop of
vrrrrr vrr vrr vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Replaced spark plugs, wires are 6 months old, Dist cap and rotor spotless, original ignition coil, New ICU, Original Power Amplifier (car wont work at all if it broke).[/QUOTE]
well yeah I knew that
but I thought that due to the maint records that it would be a little less frequent in the problems it has
My family owns exclusively German cars, I know how expensive they can be. My friend who got a 2002 530i 6 months before me has only had his rear door seals leak and an alt go bad. I've had like 1000x the problems as him.
I'm not saying I don't love the car, I do, but its just a pain in the ass and I knew that I should have waited for another one to come around, but this one was just too "me" to pass up.
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;39556427]Got the heater core out... only to discover that it was leaking from both the core AND the pipe that attaches to it and goes through the firewall. So now I have to wait to get a new pipe thing if I can even find one... fgsfds
[t]http://s6.tinypic.com/vxn776.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
This is making me very, very glad my heater core wasn't busted last week.
Took my seat on a test run today
Much more comfy, much more support, well worth the time and money.
Getting tired of my 13mm rear sway bar though, thinking of just saying screw it and going on the 55 mile drive to the other junk yard, with 3 99 outbacks that have a 18mm rear sway bar that fit my car. Just sucks doing a 110 mile round trip to spend $30 on a sway bar and bushings
[QUOTE=woolio1;39556891]This is making me very, very glad my heater core wasn't busted last week.[/QUOTE]
You should be lol... I don't think I'm ever going to do another one of these in my life.
[QUOTE=Siminov;39556209]I thought you knew going into this that BMW 7's are EXPENSIVE to maintain.
[/QUOTE]
Nah that's just a misconception about these cars. The general rule of thumb is that if you're looking to buy an E38, no matter how well maintained or how many little miles it's done, put aside around $2,000 for the first year's maintenance just to get everything up to scratch, then $1,000 or so for each year after that on misc maintenance parts.
For a car that initially cost a quarter of a million dollars (AUD), that's a pittance for such incredible luxury. I've blown those budgets by and large on my car, and although I didn't NEED to I just couldn't help myself. New wheels, custom curtains, video module upgrade, and preventative maintenance on the motor... Total peace of mind.
Rule of thumb anyway, is that no matter the car you buy used, put a minimum of 1000$ aside for maintenance the first year. Unless you buy a car to drive it till problems happens or it dies.
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;39557985]Unless you buy a car to drive it till problems happens or it dies.[/QUOTE]
done 22000km so far without problems
only adding oil every once in a while and some metal work to get it past inspection
[editline]12th February 2013[/editline]
plus i got the car for free
You can buy (or get a car) without problems, like my red prix was, hadn't got a single problem with it till I fiddle with boost.
(But now I gotta change one wheel bearing, D.I.C bulbs, and the vent door blend actuator fucked up. About 80$ fix.)
And you can buy a car and have bit more issues, so planning a good 1000$ is not a bad idea, never.
On my newer prix I did Blower motor resistor, a wheel bearing, cowl deflector, battery, thermostat, rear brake bulb and a fuse. About 270$. Not too bad, still fairly inside my budget.
Bought plugs,wires and a few gaskets, but that's just for the modding beginning, so that's not included in the maintenance/obligatory things bit.
umm
made a shift boot from a thrift store patterned button-up
smoked my indicators / driving lights
next up is sleepy eye toggle switch
[QUOTE=FordLord;39557042]Took my seat on a test run today
Much more comfy, much more support, well worth the time and money.
Getting tired of my 13mm rear sway bar though, thinking of just saying screw it and going on the 55 mile drive to the other junk yard, with 3 99 outbacks that have a 18mm rear sway bar that fit my car. Just sucks doing a 110 mile round trip to spend $30 on a sway bar and bushings[/QUOTE]
It'll be even more satisfying when you get it done though.
I did a 100 mile round trip to pick up a $10 4x100 donut spare because all the junk yards wanted $40 for one except one which at least tried to come down to $35..
It'd be cheaper than shipping still lol.
I cleaned up the shitnest which was my positive battery cable that was touched by the previous mexican owners with their walmart subs and the shit job that the installers did for my alarm. Bent it all back to shape and replaced some of the shit terminals and put them on the proper accessory pole instead of on the tightening bolt where it bends up the terminal..
I cut about 7' of wire which went from the passenger side where the battery is to behind the intake manifold where the fuse was hanging to get smacked around and busted by the intake manifold when it had worn motor mounts around to the drivers side under the dash and back behind all the way back to the passanger side... It's a total bitch to try to pull a wire through the firewall insulation behind the heater core, took me like 30 minutes.
I also cleaned up all the grounds, connectors and terminals as I went, just need to do the tranny to frame rail ground
I took off my muffler because I idioticly forgot to clear it after sanding and polishing it and it rusted up some.. So now my car is stupidly loud like it was about this time last year lol. Kinda miss the popping and noise, definitely don't miss the ringing in my ears after driving for a while though..
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39557860]Nah that's just a misconception about these cars. The general rule of thumb is that if you're looking to buy an E38, no matter how well maintained or how many little miles it's done, put aside around $2,000 for the first year's maintenance just to get everything up to scratch, then $1,000 or so for each year after that on misc maintenance parts.
For a car that initially cost a quarter of a million dollars (AUD), that's a pittance for such incredible luxury. I've blown those budgets by and large on my car, and although I didn't NEED to I just couldn't help myself. New wheels, custom curtains, video module upgrade, and preventative maintenance on the motor... Total peace of mind.[/QUOTE]
I've put $2,700USD into the car so far. It needs a tranny rebuild ($4,250), is continuing to leak coolant, the VCGs need to be done ($1,100), the idle still isn't quite right which is at least another $500.
I set aside the money to do repairs, but I'm blowing through it wayyyy more quickly than I was going to.
What is nice is the place that is doing the tranny is giving me a 5 year 50,000 mile parts and labor warranty.
I've spent £300 in 2 years... And it's a bloody Citroen, A miracle!
Most of that has been chasing down this bloody lack of power issue which still hasn't been resolved.
Parts arrived today so Yay.
I also sort of destroyed the rear torsion bar bearings through overloading... Woops.
I cleaned and lubed my wheels today
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RRg_uq42KQ[/media]
Oh, wait...
Yo dawg are dose 20s or what?
76s yo!
dang son u got air-ride or sum shit on dat?
Well... I guess it's... solid suspension :v
I can't even change my headlights without getting my hands dirty. Damn leaky power steering reservoir.
Lazy fog lights tint ! :v:
[IMG]http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9089/20130212154725804.jpg[/IMG]
How great, first time I ever left my fan running when I left the car because there were lots of loud noises around. Get off from work to find the battery dead.
How to ruin a day within 60 seconds.
At least this gives me the motivation to install my 2 speed T Stat
[QUOTE=Siminov;39567047]How great, first time I ever left my fan running when I left the car because there were lots of loud noises around. Get off from work to find the battery dead.
How to ruin a day within 60 seconds.
At least this gives me the motivation to install my 2 speed T Stat[/QUOTE]
Just push star--oh, wait...
[QUOTE=Siminov;39567047]How great, first time I ever left my fan running when I left the car because there were lots of loud noises around. Get off from work to find the battery dead.
How to ruin a day within 60 seconds.
At least this gives me the motivation to install my 2 speed T Stat[/QUOTE]
My yellow beamer with the Mishimoto radiator had a manual fan like that. Luckily the thing was so fucking noisy there was no way I could walk away from the car without noticing it. Sounded like a blow dryer.
I have got to figure out what's wrong with my clock. I think it's a blown fuse.
Went and got the 18mm rear sway bar with bushings and mounts
They only charged me for the sway itself
fuck yeah, $28.50 for a 18mm sway bar
Also bought a rubber trunk mat, $7.50
Installed the sway bar, it hit my spare tire area a bit. hammered it in a tiny bit, good enough
Took it for a drive, it feels much better.
[QUOTE=Aetna;39567894]My yellow beamer with the Mishimoto radiator had a manual fan like that. Luckily the thing was so fucking noisy there was no way I could walk away from the car without noticing it. Sounded like a blow dryer.[/QUOTE]
I have a 3300cfm zirgo electric
It's almost louder than the 1jz with a 3" freeflow. You cannot forget to turn it off lol (it also turns off when you remove the key so ye.)
[QUOTE=Aetna;39567894]My yellow beamer with the Mishimoto radiator had a manual fan like that. Luckily the thing was so fucking noisy there was no way I could walk away from the car without noticing it. Sounded like a blow dryer.[/QUOTE]
At work there was a landscaping crew, and they were using leafblowers. I usually hear it but not this time. But I did install that new T stat tonight and I am probably going to test it tonight once I'm done recharging my battery.
My fan is volvo oem which is a really good 2 speed fan, it's just that I had a single speed T stat which would turn on when the car is too hot.
Luckily I have an upgraded Nissens radiator which can take VW and Audi T stats so I bought one of their 2 speed models. It had 80-87c and 87-93c ranges, which is perfect for my car.
My only worry is that once I turn the car off, since it runs directly off the battery. It will cycle too much once I turn it off.
Also doesn't help I am running a 55amp alt when I should be running an 80 or 100 amp alt.
[QUOTE=bradley;39567319]Just push star--oh, wait...[/QUOTE]
*Reasons why I love owning a manual*
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
