[QUOTE=clutch2;39592688]No no, don't cut the blue plug off from the car!! That black piece I have posted will plug directly into the blue plug (possibly may have to modify the blue plug, as I mentioned).
You will wire the harness that plugs into your new aftermarket radio to the harness that plug into the car's blue plug.
[img]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikibooks/en/thumb/8/8d/Mazda_Guide-Protege_5-Installing_Aftermarket_Stereo-harness.jpg/640px-Mazda_Guide-Protege_5-Installing_Aftermarket_Stereo-harness.jpg[/img]
Then plug it all together.[/QUOTE]
I see, so I do need to buy another harness to go with the one that came with the new stereo.
When searching though all I get is variations of these. [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-04-4-VAUXHALL-CORSA-1993-04-CD-STEREO-ISO-WIRING-HARNESS-ADAPTOR-/261080922145?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item3cc9a2b821&_uhb=1[/url]
Which plugs straight into my car and stereo (I think), why not just use that if I'm gonna have to buy an additional harness and save myself from wiring?
Can you post a picture of the harness you have coming out of the back of your new stereo currently for me? I will advise you based on that. ;)
Dug into my dart today. The ugly-ass pyramid radio from the early 90s had to go. Lucky for me the previous dude already cut up the dash to fit that piece of junk. Now I don't have to feel bad. Ran wires to the kick panels for fronts, and then to the trunk for the two rears. Wrapped them together, then labeled.
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00298_zps4c2a7a25.jpg[/IMG]
Cut the dash trim a little more, to fit a newer single din radio. The pyramid tape player was trash.
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00302_zps55dc2990.jpg[/IMG]
It's not clean, but eventually I'm going to make a new piece of ABS to sink the radio in a bit, and clean it up.
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00314_zpsdbf302b2.jpg[/IMG]
These pictures keep reminding me that I got to get rid of the green in the interior...
Since the front was only capable of housing a little speaker in the center of the dash, I made two speaker brackets designed to be hidden under the dash and attached to the kick panels for two 6.5" speakers. They fit in above the foot wells, pointed upwards and towards the center of the car, mostly facing the occupants, rather than facing the driveshaft, if you know what I mean.
They are cel-tek ABS, and they are super clean. Took about 20 minutes to machine the pair using basic wood-working tools.
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00301_zpsfb2b1374.jpg[/IMG]
Then I installed two 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf. Luckily in 1967 when the car was sold, this speaker size existed and the body frame already had two holes cut to size, all you needed to do was knife the parcel shelf out around the holes. Super easy. had to be careful though because the parcel shelf is super brittle.
Then I started making a fake radio out of garbage and plastic I found around the shop. The idea is that when random people tend to look inside my windows (for some fucking reason they do, any time I go anywhere) is that they will see the fake radio - assume its the old one, and think nothing of it. I have the original knobs that I found in the trunk and am just trying to make something that looks like a radio behind tinted glass - 3 feet away. Just to keep them moving along. It will sit directly in front of the new radio, and be stored in the glove box when not in use.
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00303_zpse1ba8c93.jpg[/IMG]
I also ordered brand new carpet off ebay cut to fit and pre-molded, and found an upholsterer to fix the rear seat. Next I'm re-wrapping the vinyl dash, and eventually want to find the MOPAR blank they sold in the 60's to fit in the radio housing, and move the stereo under the dash so it looks better.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39594036]Sure.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/jd3RXNS.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nF5mx8f.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Yeah see, the radio supplies its own harness plug.
Consult the installation manual, it tells you which colors correspond to which speaker. The most important ones you have to remember are the powering lines. IE, the constant 12V wire, the ignition switch wire and the ground wire. Sometimes it has something extra like a power antenna 12V wire or some weird interior illumination connectors.
The hard part is figuring out which stock wires are which on your car and which ones you have to cut and connect to the new harness plug. Luckily for me, the old owner for this S13 labeled every wire so I was able to just cut and re-crimp for the new harness.
Find your factory service manual or wire diagrams so you know which is which. IE an easy assumption from that picture would the similarly-colored wires are for a speaker or device. IE the blue, gray, yellow and brown ones go to a device; positive and negative connectors for a speaker. The single red and single black are usually for the 12V source, and the black one as ground. But don't take my word, look at the manual.
Your blue connector things are easy connects. I would find the manual for your old radio first, either a paper copy or PDF online ebook, (which are easier to find, just get the radio model). Look up which colors of the old radio plug correspond to what; front left speaker, rear left speaker, etc. If you open those blue connectors up you'll see the two stripped wires that are connected in the middle. Just open them and remove the old radio wires of the plug but keep the car's harness wires inside the blue clip thing. So mark or remember which wires from your car are what depending on the old radio's manual.
Then read your new manual and connect the stripped ends to the car's harness from your list and just re-use those blue connectors. Some of your car's wires you may not have to use, it depends on the radio unit and it's functions. Some have light dimming capabilites, and powering 12V automatic antenna, etc. Just leave those connectors on the original harness if you must. But do tape up exposed wiring if you don't have to use them like on the new plug. ETC
Are you a member on forabodiesonly.com? Its a site dedicated to the darts, dusters, demons, valiants, ect.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;39594741]Are you a member on forabodiesonly.com? Its a site dedicated to the darts, dusters, demons, valiants, ect.[/QUOTE]
What about GM A-bodies?
[URL]http://www.a-body.net/forums/forum.php[/URL]
There is this, doesnt look like it has much of a active community.
The forabodiesonly site is strictly mopar.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;39594704]Yeah see, the radio supplies its own harness plug.
Consult the installation manual, it tells you which colors correspond to which speaker. The most important ones you have to remember are the powering lines. IE, the constant 12V wire, the ignition switch wire and the ground wire. Sometimes it has something extra like a power antenna 12V wire or some weird interior illumination connectors.
The hard part is figuring out which stock wires are which on your car and which ones you have to cut and connect to the new harness plug. Luckily for me, the old owner for this S13 labeled every wire so I was able to just cut and re-crimp for the new harness.
Find your factory service manual or wire diagrams so you know which is which. IE an easy assumption from that picture would the similarly-colored wires are for a speaker or device. IE the blue, gray, yellow and brown ones go to a device; positive and negative connectors for a speaker. The single red and single black are usually for the 12V source, and the black one as ground. But don't take my word, look at the manual.[/QUOTE]
Alright then, this is why before I asked if I should cut off the stock connector; so I could wire the new one in. I suppose I could just cut the wires I need and leave the rest connected and put it to one side. Or better off removing it all together and taping up the loose wires at the end?
I have the Haynes Manual for my car with wiring diagrams. I guess I gotta cross reference that with the wiring diagram from my stereo, cut the wires needed, splice in new ones and seal?
Adam, the stock plug from your car will fit directly into the cavity on the back of that radio, simply remove the top part of it from the two 8 pin sections. (dremel or something).
That being said, what brand is that? Whenever I get radios that people bring in with those DIN plugs on the back they're garbage like Boss or Pyle ;_;
The ONE thing you may need to check is that the 12v constant and 12v accessory wires aren't switched in the car. On many vehicles that use those DIN plugs that aren't VW/Audi you'll find that those two are backwards. The radio will power on, but it won't save the clock or presets. If that happens you just have to de-pin those two from the factory harness and re-pin them in each other's spots!
Haha, amazing the amount of things I've been told just to get this bloody thing in, but it looks like you're spot on now, just checked the wiring diagrams and they all match apart from the Battery (memory) and 12V (Ignition).
So I might finally be at my solution, remove the top connection, switch those two wires and that's all.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;39594741]Are you a member on forabodiesonly.com? Its a site dedicated to the darts, dusters, demons, valiants, ect.[/QUOTE]
Nope. Looking up now.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39595077]Haha, amazing the amount of things I've been told just to get this bloody thing in, but it looks like you're spot on now, just checked the wiring diagrams and they all match apart from the Battery (memory) and 12V (Ignition).
So I might finally be at my solution, remove the top connection, switch those two wires and that's all.[/QUOTE]
I deal with these nonsense things all day long, glad I could help out ;)
One FINAL question, how do you de-pin and re-pin these things? Google didn't really help.
I promise to go away after this :P
Taking a very small straight dental style pick and sliding it into one of the openings next to the pins themselves will release them. Practice on the new radio's harness until you get it down without damaging the pins, you should be able to slide them back in and have them lock.
If you can't get the depinning down, just cut, swap, and re-solder the two wires on the vehicle's harness.
Bah, I hate taking shortcuts.
I would just disconnect the old plug and re-crimp the new plug in so there's no modifying or hassle.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39594036]Sure.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/jd3RXNS.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nF5mx8f.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
That socket on the back of the head unit looks like a standard ISO plug (Rather than them using some propriety shit that then breaks out to an ISO connector like most head units). Get the hardness adapter, connect it to the blue connector on the car and plug the other end into the back of the radio and you're done.
I'd never cut the original wiring if I can help it.
Those Autoleads adapters are of decent quality, I've used tons of them.
When I did mine I had to reverse engineer the car's wheel controls to create an adapter to control the sony head unit with the buttons on the wheel. I used an Atmega and created a small circuit to do the conversion in software:
[img]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/SDC11376.JPG[/img]
Still works great!
It looks messy because I used tape to give some strain relief to the cables, all connections were heatshrunk if possible
And I still didn't cut any original wiring =)
Jeeze, got some radio pro's in here.
Two years ago I properly installed a radio in my 79 Chevy K20. Bought the radio, adapter, etc. so i wouldnt have to mess up the wiring in it. Put it in, it worked amazing.
A while later the radio started dieing in my Impreza. Took the radio out of the truck, butchered the original wiring in my car, threw it in and called it good. Wasnt until just 6 months ago that i fixed the wiring so the memory works. Also installed a DIN pocket, since my oem radio was double DIN and this ones single.
[IMG]http://puu.sh/22Zpt[/IMG]
Lower intake is now on
Rocker's are on
Valve covers on
look at that upper intake design with our Patent Cardboard intake™ you will give your engine the maximum airflow it needs!
So today I took the heads to the Accord to a shop to get em' checked out. The guy takes one look, points to a spot and says "Well thats where the coolant was flowing by..."
A clean section, not spots. After him explaining it to me a bit I took a closer look and realized it was a BAD leak on the front head. The rear one was only slightly dirtier. Glad what I'm having done is only gonna cost 72 bux.
Example on the bad:
[img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/5b16b18f-9a01-4184-a527-2e4321d5c5f0_zps225addaa.jpg[/img]
The clean area not to mention they are warped a bit, what I was afraid of....
Might be done today too... *fingers crossed* If not then friday and Once I get a day where people are [i]not[/i] asking me to fix their stuff I'mma get to my own shit and git-er-done. I hope...
Well I replaced the ignition coil with a good one, it ran great for a minute and went back to brr brrr brrrrrrrrrrrr
So now I think it's my fuel system, my weak fuel pumps and junkyard fuel injectors could be to blame.
Played with my tire pressure
Bumped it from 35f/32r up to 40f/38r
Im running 205/55/16 MasterCraft GlacierGrips. Max psi on them is 44, my door says to run 32/29. At that psi, even my Kumhos wore like they were underinflated.
The Kumhos ran great at 34/32, but these new tires are softer.
Took it for a drive, the steering is a little better. Ill just have to get a new rack some time
If my 2rz's head ever goes I'm going to get the engine rebuilt with forged internals, a stronger head gasket, and much stronger head pins and turbocharge it.
its a RZ, it'll throw a rod anyway
except its not the 3rz, its the 2, the 3 is the one with rod problems because it has longer rods.
Got the heads back fucking quick holy shit, in like 2 and a half hours. I'm posting now cuz I forgot to earlier. :/
[img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/GF_zps40802ad7.jpg[/img]
Purdy now. Also I need to get new head bolts.
[QUOTE=clutch2;39595701]Taking a very small straight dental style pick and sliding it into one of the openings next to the pins themselves will release them. Practice on the new radio's harness until you get it down without damaging the pins, you should be able to slide them back in and have them lock.
If you can't get the depinning down, just cut, swap, and re-solder the two wires on the vehicle's harness.[/QUOTE]
Thanks dude it's installed and working, switched the 2 red wires so it has memory. One problem though, there are wires on the stock connector that are not needed for the new radio, however they're connected anyway. As soon as I turn my radio on, the date disappears from my heads up display thing (Think this is because the stock radio sent the radio station name to it, but in this case there's nothing there). My old custom radio displayed the date.
Should I de-pin and cover the wires that aren't needed? Also when inserting my key and turning it one click, the radio and heads up display flash really quickly.
Found this.
[b]Why does the date go off on my vauxhall corsa clock when you switch my radio on?[/b]
[quote]This is because you have fitted a new radio to your car which is not the same as vauxhall fitted at new. The vauxhall radio and clock on your corsa are connected by a wire which i belive is gray/red, Which when the radio is switched on the date will go off on your clock and be replaced with the radio station, But your new radio does not have this function, So the date will go off leaving the screen blank, I belive cutting the gray/red wire will stop the date from going off, Not 100% sure, Try it if date still goes off just reconnect wire.[/quote]
Fitted a universal K&N filter in my stock airbox with the short ram pipe to replace my shit dirty old specter cone filter. Tomorrow I'll get the stuff to make it into a proper cold air intake. Pretty neat idea instead of dropping $300 on a Comptech/CT Engineering Icebox or Mugen intake or something.
Forgot to take a picture of it in the box or the pieces individually but I hacked up a stock coffee filter filter and used a 3" grommet from the old resonator box to seal the box.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5601782/IMG_20130215_204827.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5601782/IMG_20130215_204904.jpg[/t]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5601782/IMG_20130215_211034.jpg[/t]
Also put a K&N sticker on the ebay intake pipe because I could, only sticker on the car lol. Should give me the 5hp from putting a K&N JDM High Performance Racing Air Intake Filter filter on my car!
I'll try to find the piping to do this tomorrow.
[t]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/bretq/2006_09230016.jpg[/t]
[t]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/bretq/2006_09230018.jpg[/t]
For a comparison here's what the more expensive CAI intakes use too.
[t]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/bretq/wetoddimage.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39606493]Found this.
[b]Why does the date go off on my vauxhall corsa clock when you switch my radio on?[/b][/QUOTE]
Makes sense, it's probably the power antenna wire or remote turn on wire (blue or blue n white connections on the aftermarket plug). Give it a go!
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
