Can't say I'm a fan of those K&N filters - if they're oiled, they fould your MAF every time.
[QUOTE=Waffle99;39603099]If my 2rz's head ever goes I'm going to get the engine rebuilt with forged internals, a stronger head gasket, and much stronger head pins and turbocharge it.[/QUOTE]
so in other words your never gonna do it.
I plan on giving this truck to my children so it will eventually happen.
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39619974]Can't say I'm a fan of those K&N filters - if they're oiled, they fould your MAF every time.[/QUOTE]
Only if you use a ridiculous amount of oil.
A spectre filter will do the same exact job for less. (If you make your own SRI/HAI/CAI/FWI.)
Oiled filter are crap imo.
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39619974]Can't say I'm a fan of those K&N filters - if they're oiled, they fould your MAF every time.[/QUOTE]
I don't have a MAF lol, so I can't really say that problem could effect me.
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;39623645]A spectre filter will do the same exact job for less. (If you make your own SRI/HAI/CAI/FWI.)
Oiled filter are crap imo.[/QUOTE]
Everyone always said they held water like a cup(i tested this, they don't), I also wanted one which would fit in the stock airbox and a cone filter won't. Figured my 3 year/40k mile old spectre which has saw way too many dirt roads could possibly use a replacement.
Most people don't even oil their K&N's lol, they sell the oil separately.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;39626832]I don't have a MAF lol.
Everyone always said they held water like a cup(i tested this, they don't), I also wanted one which would fit in the stock airbox and a cone filter won't. Figured my 3 year/40k mile old spectre which has saw way too many dirt roads could possibly use a replacement.
Most people don't even oil their K&N's lol, they sell the oil separately.[/QUOTE]
They come oiled from factory.
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;39626855]They come oiled from factory.[/QUOTE]
Oh, mine said oil before use everywhere so I figured it wasn't.
Well I reset my ECU, replaced my oil return line with one that was actually meant for oil and tested the new coil I got. Everything ran perfect till the Ecu had time to learn, then it was back to the usual. It is slightly improved but it still shakes and has a small miss. Next thing to tackle is the fuel system, which is probably what is causing it.
Seen many turbo's come through the shop with unusually short lives. Usually it's on a pointlessly lifted truck who's owner just had to have that make believe 5 horsepower from adding a K&N. Dustings a bitch.
Cold air intakes were cool back when carburetors sat on top of the engine. With today's air boxes they really don't have much to offer except looking good.
Sounding cool too. That is when you're boosted. And most "cold air" are "hot air or short ram".
Sometimes *slightly* better economy too/better air intake for boosted applications too.
My car was making a really scary noise and had to figure out what it was. Turns out, my new CT20b doesn't allow my heat shield to be bolted down on all sides, so it flops about and it pangs against the turbo housing at certain rpms. While we were at it, my brother and I got that thing timed and test driven. The torque difference is astounding, and the power across the rev range increased dramatically on top of it. Going to go back to the dyno after I get a boost controller to unlock some power and see what I'm running at.
Re-Looked at my passenger side control arms, thought. "I have no idea what I'm looking at, Lets just imagine there okay and not making loud pooping noises + making the steering wheel lock up."
And changed my oil only 3k miles after due, threw some dino oil in there because my valve cover gaskets are getting on my nerves.
Here have a pic of my engine bay with out my intake cover on.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2013-02-18%2013.32.54.jpg[/t]
Used some OneShot to clean up the dash. Needs a good sand and recoat, but you get the idea. Then finished mounting my hidden 6.5" speaker brackets under the dash.
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00340_zps9217012b.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00339_zps8c6d3bdd.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00338_zps8df19437.jpg[/IMG]
Got about 12 yards of black vinyl in the trunk ready to start recovering the dash pad and other pieces that are cracked.
What car is that?
CHF 11s steering fluid is expensive. Any reason I can't just use the generic stuff?
[QUOTE=>VLN<;39636515]What car is that?[/QUOTE]
1968 Dodge Dart 270
4 door
Project/Toy:
[IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/CAM00332-1_zps4d1b2fd1.jpg[/IMG]
Interior is pretty much junk, and also still dark green, so I am converting it to copper/white as the exterior is to match. All the white parts in the photo were a faded dark green
I also have some white gauge overlays that are rallye stye coming in the mail hopefully soon. Still scared to do the dash pad, it looks simple, but it's $250 to buy a new one if I mes it up...
[QUOTE=woolio1;39637083]CHF 11s steering fluid is expensive. Any reason I can't just use the generic stuff?[/QUOTE]
CHF 11S = 20$
Valvoline Power Steering Fluid = 6.95$
IMO Get the shit your car was designed for, or else 6 years later your have to replace the power steering pump or rack. (If comes to worse)
Don't fucking cheap out on this kind of shit. Its like buying 50cent quarts of oil for your car.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Img%20Dump/2013-02-18%2018.47.42.jpg[/t]
10/10 Hell I have 2 of these laying around, Buy one get one free at my local NAPA.
Advanced the timing of the ignition = Better response and cleaner burning.
And now I'm sitting here and calculating the new intake piping, and writing up a wiring diagram for the electric fan!
Worked on my red Volvo 745
[QUOTE=DPKiller;39638270]CHF 11S = 20$
Valvoline Power Steering Fluid = 6.95$
IMO Get the shit your car was designed for, or else 6 years later your have to replace the power steering pump or rack. (If comes to worse)
Don't fucking cheap out on this kind of shit. Its like buying 50cent quarts of oil for your car.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Img%20Dump/2013-02-18%2018.47.42.jpg[/t]
10/10 Hell I have 2 of these laying around, Buy one get one free at my local NAPA.[/QUOTE]
Hey, no reason to rate me dumb. I'm new at the whole car thing, so I'm not going to automatically know this stuff.
Thanks for the advice, though. I picked up a can of that Pentosin, so that should last me a while. I do need to fix the leak, though, or I'm going to go through the stuff like barbecue at a rib convention.
[QUOTE=woolio1;39638999]Hey, no reason to rate me dumb. I'm new at the whole car thing, so I'm not going to automatically know this stuff.
Thanks for the advice, though. I picked up a can of that Pentosin, so that should last me a while. I do need to fix the leak, though, or I'm going to go through the stuff like barbecue at a rib convention.[/QUOTE]
Shit must have hit the dumb button wile trying to click reply...
If you have a leak CHF "might" stop it if the stuff in it now is very thin.
If your leaking shit out like a mad man I would run the cheap Valvoline stuff only until you fix the leak because CHF is slightly liquid gold, but I would still be weary of it and would not run it for more than a month and followed a good ass flush.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;39639064]Shit must have hit the dumb button wile trying to click reply...
If you have a leak CHF "might" stop it if the stuff in it now is very thin.
If your leaking shit out like a mad man I would run the cheap Valvoline stuff only until you fix the leak because CHF is slightly liquid gold, but I would still be weary of it and would not run it for more than a month and followed a good ass flush.[/QUOTE]
The stuff that was in it was whatever they used at the last service station it was taken to, as it hadn't been taken to a Mini dealership for service in the past five years. I have no idea what the stuff is now, but it's thinner than the CHF.
I think it's an issue with my reservoir, though, because the pipe from it looks good, and it's leaking from the seam in the plastic. Any advice on replacing the reservoir?
[QUOTE=woolio1;39639185]The stuff that was in it was whatever they used at the last service station it was taken to, as it hadn't been taken to a Mini dealership for service in the past five years. I have no idea what the stuff is now, but it's thinner than the CHF.
I think it's an issue with my reservoir, though, because the pipe from it looks good, and it's leaking from the seam in the plastic. Any advice on replacing the reservoir?[/QUOTE]
I have never seen anything under a Mini before... Post pic's of the reservoir and I bet some one would chime.
[QUOTE=woolio1;39638999]Hey, no reason to rate me dumb. I'm new at the whole car thing, so I'm not going to automatically know this stuff.
Thanks for the advice, though. I picked up a can of that Pentosin, so that should last me a while. I do need to fix the leak, though, or I'm going to go through the stuff like barbecue at a rib convention.[/QUOTE]
If you fix the leak and flush it with new fluid you probably won't ever touch the power steering for the rest of the time you own the car.
I think I'm going to go with ARP studs, I'm told they never stretch. Glad theres an ARP place in Clearwater not too far from me. Also, I keep hearing whispers the my engine CAN accept a tarbo.
[QUOTE=4NGRY MUFF1N;39638987]Advanced the timing of the ignition = Better response and cleaner burning.
And now I'm sitting here and calculating the new intake piping, and writing up a wiring diagram for the electric fan!
Worked on my red Volvo 745[/QUOTE]
I can tell you how I did mine if that helps, though it depends what radiator you have.
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/735093_575003872514291_1376648966_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
welp this strut bar isn't clearing the hood
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