:D
[editline]3rd May 2011[/editline]
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;29586561]I dunno about the wastegate setting, but it still doesn't concern me. Some wagon guys run D16Z6s bone stock and 18psi.
Yeah, going OBD1. I have a P28 already I got with the motor, and I'll probably just pick up a OBD0 -> OBD1 conversion harness from Rywire. I'll fix the dizzy plug myself, I have lots of that stuff laying around. Also, my car never had a resistor box prior. DPFI motor gooo! I'll just be wiring resistors inline rather than finding a box.[/QUOTE]
Also that rywire harness will probably cost about the same as grabbing a MPFI OBD0 dizzy and resistor box... You can sell the P28 and get enough to buy and chip a PM6...
But that's just how I'd personally do it.
Yeah, I've been looking at that X_X They sell the conversion harness for $110, and then they sell PM6 virgin ECUs for 5 speed cars for $90. makes a lot of sense.
Craigslist it. PM6's go for about $40 in the street market, don't buy one of a fancy website. Especially just to rip its guts out and chip it anyways.
[editline]3rd May 2011[/editline]
You could prolly hawk a P28 manual ECU for ~$100, comparably. OBD1 is the more expensive route in the long run...
Not around me. Most of the ricer fucknuts want $120-160 for a virgin PM6. One guy has one for sale for $20, but its a two hour drive. for a $20 fucking ECU.
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;29586657]Not around me. Most of the ricer fucknuts want $120-160 for a virgin PM6. One guy has one for sale for $20, but its a two hour drive. for a $20 fucking ECU.[/QUOTE]
Do it. I drove an hour and a half for a virgin PM6 for 40 dollars. So I think $20 isn't too bad for 30 minutes more.
Definately worth it.
look wat i buyed
[img]http://www.seiboncarbon.com/images/products/large/53dc9c5da98616aa74ac32c1cbf48ec6.jpg[/img]
[editline]3rd May 2011[/editline]
I cancelled the order for the hood and asked a price for some white Rota Grids instead.
[img]http://www.boomspeed.com/fnananon/shoot1_2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.streamlinealloys.co.uk/Images/Wheels/Rota/15/Grid_White_17_alloy_wheels.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Ferosso;29589473]look wat i buyed
[img_thumb]http://www.seiboncarbon.com/images/products/large/53dc9c5da98616aa74ac32c1cbf48ec6.jpg[/img_thumb]
[editline]3rd May 2011[/editline]
I cancelled the order for the hood and asked a price for some white Rota Grids instead.
[img_thumb]http://www.boomspeed.com/fnananon/shoot1_2.jpg[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://www.streamlinealloys.co.uk/Images/Wheels/Rota/15/Grid_White_17_alloy_wheels.jpg[/img_thumb][/QUOTE]
Ahh yeah so sexy. I would rather have Rota Slips tho.
Most Rotas are sleek. Except those ones..... I hate those ones.....
i saw a for sale ad on the local ricer website, and it said "real rota slips"
i wasnt aware they made knockoff rota's
[QUOTE=Ferosso;29589473]look wat i buyed
[img_thumb]http://www.seiboncarbon.com/images/products/large/53dc9c5da98616aa74ac32c1cbf48ec6.jpg[/img_thumb]
[editline]3rd May 2011[/editline]
I cancelled the order for the hood and asked a price for some white Rota Grids instead.
[img_thumb]http://www.boomspeed.com/fnananon/shoot1_2.jpg[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://www.streamlinealloys.co.uk/Images/Wheels/Rota/15/Grid_White_17_alloy_wheels.jpg[/img_thumb][/QUOTE]
Now cancel order for wheels and buy springs
[QUOTE=lemon_lover;29596528]i saw a for sale ad on the local ricer website, and it said "real rota slips"
i wasnt aware they made knockoff rota's[/QUOTE]
Actually I'm pretty sure there are a lot of knockoff Rota Slips. I know I've seen a set for sale in my area but it's been a while back.
I worked on my RC car that my dad got me for my birthday, if that counts.
It leaves black marks all over the road because of the torque.
That is weird as hell, imgur named my picture Cellp when I took it with my cellphone.
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/CeIlp.jpg[/img_thumb]
Motor is out of the stationwagon =D Time for cleaning and wiring.
Helped my friend do some work on his '97 Legacy GT.
One of the previous owners pretty much just threw some parts on it and called it good.
The radiator isn't the right one, but it works. The fans were not put on right, so I fixed that for him.
His coolant reservoir was still lined with oil (he had headgasket problems, like a fair amount of earlier EJ25's did)
While we were working on that, we took a look under my car and found out where my oil has been going.
The bottom of my timing belt cover has a broken bolt and has oil leaking out.
For those that don't know, timing belts aren't meant to have any oil in them. That means that one of the seals inside is bad.
I also checked out my p0325 (knock sensor) the sensor isn't working right (we took it out and hit it on things while the engine was running to see if it would change the timing. We also completely took it off and it didn't change anything)
So I ordered a new one, total of $23.94.
[QUOTE=bradley;29596980]Actually I'm pretty sure there are a lot of knockoff Rota Slips. I know I've seen a set for sale in my area but it's been a while back.[/QUOTE]
So there are knockoff's of knockoff's?
Rota slipstreams are spoon sw388's
[img]http://29.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l9yul2x1lN1qc9t1no1_400.jpg[/img]
I helped my friend re-paint his valve cover today. Since he wasn't going to do a ghetto-rig job we stripped the old paint off first with the help of a heat gun, a pressure washer, and some paint stripper. The whole job was sorta rushed, but for something we did in half the time it should have taken the end result was probably a nine outta ten. Now his valve cover is blue (not my choice of color, but meh).
Did those come first? I'm pretty sure they didn't.
Also, went out to my place today and started my Lancer since the battery was dead. Then I went out on our back 10 acres and dusted the cobwebs off of my REAL baby, whom I had forgotten about
[img]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/230245_206299809404933_100000747462026_605536_3730840_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/227820_206299799404934_100000747462026_605535_7972377_n.jpg[/img]
She's a '64 Chevelle El Camino, and the cream one beside her is a '65. The '64 is a long term project for me and my dad that we haven't got to yet, it's a full roller with Laguna bucket seats. It's going to recieve a 327/400 turbo. It's sitting on a set of '60s Corvette 14" rally wheels and center caps.
The '65... I've just realized I have the front clip laying in the back of the '64. I was going to use it for parts, but I have enough to make 2 '64/'65 El Caminos out of the lot.
The '65 has something special planned for it. :) I'll let you guys know when I get more pieces together. I plan on yanking the '65 out and getting it bolted together and primed out soon.
[editline]4th May 2011[/editline]
[img]http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/229205_206299816071599_100000747462026_605537_3102594_n.jpg[/img]
lol, DSM, u so funny. You aren't a ninja!
Tried to fix my front right park light, cant find anything wrong that would cause it to start and stop working.
Replaced a hoot strut so now my hood holds itself up (20 bucks from the wreckers)
replaced the fuse box lid because the previous owner smashed it with the broken strut
need to get a seat cover and steering wheel cover
put back in the rear middle seatbelt
Almost ready for roadworthy except the control arm bushes are dead and i cant replace them without lifting up the car which i cant do so paying someone to do that.
so i pressure washed my engine bay yesterday right and i tried to start it today and it wouldn't start and i was like wtf kill me
came home and looked around and the problem was water in the distributor cap so YEAH im diy mastermind fuck all you haters
Me and dad have been fucking around in the driver side door and now the light inside turns off when you shut the door so I no longer have to disconnect the battery :buddy:
also THE RADIATOR HAS ARRIVED
to a closed store half an hour away
but anyway IT'S THERE and I'm picking it up tomorrow and hopefully putting it on the Jeep if the weather agrees :buddy:
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;29612591]so i pressure washed my engine bay yesterday right and i tried to start it today and it wouldn't start and i was like wtf kill me
came home and looked around and the problem was water in the distributor cap so YEAH im diy mastermind fuck all you haters[/QUOTE]
[i]I seem to recall warning that this would happen...[/i]
Anyways, did my HF tranny swap today! Finally!
Took ages to get my 4 speed tranny out, turns out it had a cracked case. Also my shift linkage was being held together by a bolt with no nut on it. Also my speedo cable came unclipped at the guage so I had to tear my dash apart.
Aside from that it came out pretty easy. Also one of my axles exploded upon itself when it did. I re-greased and re-booted it and it's fine.
After I got it out I was pissed, the HF tranny was a 21 spline and my tranny was 20 spline. So my BRAND NEW clutch wouldn't work in it. I luckily had a [del]well[/del] slightly used 21 spline clutch handy, courtesy of Japfeiffer, and slapped it in there.
After I got the tranny up into place it was a breeze. Filled it up with 1.9 quarts of 5w30 and it was good to go.
Today's Cons:
-Was a bitch to do tranny swap
-Went from AWESOME CLUTCH to "meh" clutch
Today's Pros:
-What's this new gear above reverse?! IT'S AMAZING
And the big pro of today: The HF tranny has a locked differential! Yaaaaaaaaay! So now I'm spinning both wheels :smug:
Kicked up some gravel in the shop parking lot after I got done with the swap. Was fun as tits. I'm liking this two-wheel thing. This is my first honda with a locked diff.
[QUOTE=bradley;29621565][i]I seem to recall warning that this would happen...[/i][/QUOTE]
the thing is that i forgot and then i figured it out all by myself
it's like you never told me
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;29537045]MY WAGON HAS NO HEART :derp:
Motor is pretty much out. Everything is off/out of it (Both manifolds, all wiring harness, all coolant/fuel hoses, etc.) Unbolt the motor mounts tomorrow and lift the motor out.
Worst part is it took me maybe an hour to get to that stage. I work on Hondas way too much.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=bradley;29537481]It takes me about 3 hours to do a D-to-D motor swap, using just a cherry picker and hand tools. They're really easy to mess with.[/QUOTE]
You guys make me want a cheap Honda DD.
"Oh look the engine just blew up, looks like I'll just swap in one of the three extras I have laying around and then drive it to go get lunch in an hour".
There was a white 96 coupe with a blown headgasket for $550 but I don't need two problems at once.
Speaking of blown headgaskets. :(
Shit is taking forever since I've never done it before.
[img]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/623593/IMAG0026.jpg[/img]
[img]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/623593/IMAG0020.jpg[/img]
its easy after you've done it once. I can change the headgasket on a honda in half an hour pretty easily.
just make sure you get the surfaces all prepped properly and then retorqued.
Then after you've driven 20-50 miles, pull the valve cover off and retorque them again.
Don't do that, use a Felpro Permatorque gasket. I use the permatorque gasket for a '90 Civic on all my builds, it works with most D series. Torque it down to 26 in order, then 48 in order. I have the order memorized so I can do a head gasket job (completely) in about an hour if everything is at my hands.
30 minutes? Seems a bit fast for a head gasket swap... But still, it's a quick and easy job.
Head gasket on my old Talon was way harder than on any Honda I've owned. Took me a couple days. Most of it was the F!(^$%! HYDRAULIC TENSIONER.
I see these amazingly complex looking engines and I actually feel dumb. The two vehicles I do regular work and modifications on are fairly simple. I mean, I get that the basics are the same, but that's almost overwhelming to me.
My Volkswagen is pretty straight forward until you start diving through that multicolored spaghetti-palooza called the "wiring," and my Suzuki is about as straight forward as a vehicle can be. As in, One fuckhuge cylinder, a metal bit to hold flammable liquids, a simple-as-shit transmission, a battery, some lights, a couple of tires, and a little electric motor.
[QUOTE=bradley;29622704]
30 minutes? Seems a bit fast for a head gasket swap... But still, it's a quick and easy job.
[/QUOTE]
Impact wrench. All day erryday. Huge one, too. Rattle everything off, 5-10 mins. clean surfaces, 5mins with my huge grinder with a scotch pad. lay new gasket with copper spray, 1 min, add dowels, 30 seconds, replace head, 1-2 minutes, rattle bolts down lightly, torque them, done.
maybe a little over half an hour including all the dinky little wires and stuff I guess, but its a pretty quick process with big air tools.
Yeah, I use an air impact too.
But you have to pull exhaust/intake which you CAN'T do with an impact.
i want air tools :c
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