But it's okay for a muscle car to put a scoop on, and even looks cool, right? Even if it's fake and useless? But the minute an import puts a real, functioning one on, its ugly, stupid, and automatically labels me as a ricer or whatever. That doesn't make any sense.
Muscle cars need them. Your car does not. You have a tiny one-liter-and-some-change rotary, not a huge choking V8 in excess of 5 liters, sometimes 6 or 7.
Plus, alot of those scoops were factory, and a factory design is acceptable. I don't think some random Japanese worker ever took a hacksaw to the RX-7's hood in Hiroshima. Plus the gains from a cold air scoop are SO RIDICULOUSLY LOW that it would be stupid. Getting cold air into the breather of these old muscle cars could provide tens of horsepower to them, since they are choked down by the fact you can only push so many CFMs through the carb/intake/ports. So the point is to get it to its maximum potential. On your car, it's not going to make shit all of a difference.
There are imports that pull scoops off very well, like the Subarus with the tiny scoop for TMIC (There's a purpose there, see?) but they are all usually a factory scoop. I will admit though, I'm a huge fan of muscley, RWD imports with cowl-styled hoods.
Anyways, try some of the other things if you want more power. If you just want it to look better, paint the goddam thing already, slam it, I don't know. It's an RX-7, it's cool by default. You shouldn't have to do anything.
[editline]28th May 2011[/editline]
Alternative: Take the whole hood off. If you notice an increase in power...
[editline]28th May 2011[/editline]
You're a fucking liar
[QUOTE=justin1992;30105047]But it's okay for a muscle car to put a scoop on, and even looks cool, right? Even if it's fake and useless? But the minute an import puts a real, functioning one on, its ugly, stupid, and automatically labels me as a ricer or whatever. That doesn't make any sense.[/QUOTE]
[img]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mrg-6651.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.wep.co.nz/wep/member-images/32/image/capriv8_engine.jpg[/img]
They're a part of the engine and not the bodywork also they look a bit better than any hood scoop and they kinda need them
[img]http://db.tt/fjesyHx[/img]
[img]http://db.tt/qU0IrDO[/img]
Looks off without lights
Anyone got any wisdom to share for cleaning tanks? No rust, just shitloads of gum; I'm thinking just splash some acetone around
Changed the Oil, filter, air filter, bled the brakes a bit, and washed the outside of my van today. Drove it around the block a few times to see how she runs too. Runs great, and bleeding the brakes helped a bit, but the pedal is still super stiff. My grandpa thinks the front calipers are bad. Gonna have to look tomorrow.
[editline]28th May 2011[/editline]
OH! and while I was underneath I looked at the Exhaust on it, still looks almost brand new and It's apparently the stock exhaust but it goes from what looks to be almost three inches from the cat back to the muffler and behind the muffler it chokes down to like 1 7/8 inches for the last two feet or so of pipe.. :raise:
forgot sealant for the new gasket so it leaks and forgot to drain the torque converter so i wasted ~$50 worth of transmission fluid.
i spent all the money i got for graduation on that fluid
i'm broke and all i've got is a car that is a memento to how i do everything wrong
[img_thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3702776/Photo%20Dump/IMG_1546.JPG[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3702776/Photo%20Dump/IMG_1547.JPG[/img_thumb]
i like it
now I've gotta get rid of the fogs
STi fog light covers go
Now that you got me thinking of turbos, what would you suggest for a turbo kit if i were to get one later on down the road?
Turbo kit! Hah!
fuck that, piece one together with parts from the junk yard. I'll have a complete turbo setup that rivals name brand parts for around $400 when I order the rest of my parts. Any kit will run you anywhere from $1k for a cheap ebay kit to $6k for a name brand top of the line kit.
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;30128897]Turbo kit! Hah!
fuck that, piece one together with parts from the junk yard. I'll have a complete turbo setup that rivals name brand parts for around $400 when I order the rest of my parts. Any kit will run you anywhere from $1k for a cheap ebay kit to $6k for a name brand top of the line kit.[/QUOTE]
In that case once i find myself a job maybe I'll come back and ask again, maybe you guys can help me piece together a decent one :D
We would be glad to help you piece together one. I know of four members here (including myself) who have turbo experience so I'm sure you can find some help :D
drained the tranny fluid again. the right way. now it's leaking a little bit and it's still doing that thing in 4th gear ffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff
[editline]30th May 2011[/editline]
code 628 - excessive converter clutch slippage ffffffffffffff
All this recent talk of turbos reminded me of something I saw once, on youtube, of what people do with their spare turbos...
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZoymnZRBVc&feature=related[/media]
speaking of turbos.
[url]http://youtu.be/-XgTiuySL_A[/url]
the engines in those patrols are crazy as well.
Got the harness put back on the motor partly today, the only problem is I don't remember where some of it goes :derp:
would help if it was light out and I could see what I was doing. finish putting it on tomorrow and get the motor put back in.
It will be N/A for a while until I can get my oiling system for the turbo sorted out.
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;30172811]Got the harness put back on the motor partly today, the only problem is I don't remember where some of it goes :derp:
would help if it was light out and I could see what I was doing. finish putting it on tomorrow and get the motor put back in.
It will be N/A for a while until I can get my oiling system for the turbo sorted out.[/QUOTE]
N/A is pretty good if you can get the high compression parts, like the gaskets and such. Even though I've played alot of Gran Tursimo, there is alot of stuff that applys to RL. I don't rely on it because there's alot I'm likely missing, but an N/A engine can smoke like a mother fucker if done right. I know most of you like ze turbo, but I'm kinda drunk at the moment and I figured I'd get this itch out and speak what I had on my mind before my drunkness made me say something really stupid. :/
[QUOTE=Scientwist;30173216]N/A is pretty good if you can get the high compression parts, like the gaskets and such. Even though I've played alot of Gran Tursimo, there is alot of stuff that applys to RL. I don't rely on it because there's alot I'm likely missing, but an N/A engine can smoke like a mother fucker if done right. I know most of you like ze turbo, but I'm kinda drunk at the moment and I figured I'd get this itch out and speak what I had on my mind before my drunkness made me say something really stupid. :/[/QUOTE]
I have an N/A build in my Civic, it is NOTHING compared to the 5PSI turbo CRX I had. Essentially the same motor, the CRX was a stock D15B2 engine on 5PSI and the Civic is a D15B1 bottom end and D16Y7 top end, 11.7:1 compression. It's nice, but nowhere NEAR as fast as the CRX was. On small engines, N/A and forced induction are nowhere near as comparable as on something 2+ liters.
[editline]1st June 2011[/editline]
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;30172811]Got the harness put back on the motor partly today, the only problem is I don't remember where some of it goes :derp:
would help if it was light out and I could see what I was doing. finish putting it on tomorrow and get the motor put back in.
It will be N/A for a while until I can get my oiling system for the turbo sorted out.[/QUOTE]
Are you going to run your oil line off of the sending unit? That's what I did. I ran the oil return to the pan using a fitting with some rubber seals between it and the pan, it would be nicer if it was a welded bung though. I'd definately reccomend doing it like that.
If it's water cooled, you're SOL unless you run the lines off of the IACV or something.
[QUOTE=bradley;30173356]I have an N/A build in my Civic, it is NOTHING compared to the 5PSI turbo CRX I had. Essentially the same motor, the CRX was a stock D15B2 engine on 5PSI and the Civic is a D15B1 bottom end and D16Y7 top end, 11.7:1 compression. It's nice, but nowhere NEAR as fast as the CRX was. On small engines, N/A and forced induction are nowhere near as comparable as on something 2+ liters.[/QUOTE]
After a quick thought on it, I can see what you mean. The only other things I could see one being able to do would be domed pistons and cylinder boring and with those engines being interference types, that would make it more likely to destroy them if the timing belt snapped. Maybe not so much the boring, but if memory serves there's already very little space between cylinders to begin with.
I can't run dome pistons. I don't have any more clearance between the piston top and combustion chamber, I could maybe squeeze 12:1 compression out of it by using a D15Z1 head, but it really isn't worth the effort. I won't be gaining any power and I would lose my precious few torques.
Also, on any D series, if the timing belt snaps they generally destroy themselves anyways, completely stock. I've got lucky twice, once on my own Civic and another time on a friend's who was so unsure if it would be okay that I bought it off of him since he didn't want to gamble. I never drove it afterwards except for a little bit, but I traded it for an Eclipse GSX with a broken sunroof soon after.
Also, I worked at my dad's shop today. Took an Iron Duke and Borg Warner 5-speed out of an 89 S-10, going to be putting in a '78 model 229 V6 with a high rise 4-barrel intake tomorrow, and converting to 350 turbo trans. No idea why he isn't using the Borg Warner gearbox with that V6, but it's alright, I'm going to try and buy the Iron Duke off of him with the tranny attatched.
When I was at the shop, I kept glancing over to the cover-ed up '67 Camaro in the corner. 454 cubic inches of classic car just collecting dust on top of it's cover. I decided I'm going to yank my '64 El Camino out and drop a motor in it to drive around for the summer. I should have insurance on it by the end of the month.
4-barrel carbs: Oldschool VTEC.
also I'll probably buy an oil filter sandwich plate for my feed. Just easier than fucking with a bunch of fittings and shit. Also will have a bung welded into my pan right under the turbo for return.
Nice, you're doing it the best way. Sandwich is better than sending unit, but more expensive. D:
Yesterday I detailed my girls 95' Plymouth Neon, surprisingly enough the interior of that beast was basically mint, the paint on the exterior though was almost none existent. Today I spent a good 8 hours detailing my FA5, it needed it pretty badly.
[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/detailed.png?t=1307231428[/IMG]
I also decided I needed a new shift boot as my old one has been through 120k miles and was basically worn to shreds, it looked awful. So instead of dropping upwards of $100 for a quality leather one, I sewed up my own. Ended up costing me $6 after a 40% coupon at Joannes Fabric and an hour of my time. Love it. Now all I need is a short throw and a nice weighted knob.
[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/booty.png?t=1307231424[/IMG]
Clean, I like it.
put launch control back on my car
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScTm8Uf7Lpk[/media]
still slow though
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
