Most hoses do...Just a typical valve, even with it all the way open it's not pressure-washer status, It's not really high pressure at all, not enough to screw anything up on an engine. I cleaned the engine in my k10 with a legit, engine-operated pressure washer and didn't even screw anything up so with a house-hose you shouldn't have anything to worry about.
Don't let the degreaser dry up, it will become a harder to clean so respray it every couple minutes.
i'm about to do this since my intercooler is 90% bugs
That'll work, but won't get it as clean. Go for it, man.
[editline]29th July 2011[/editline]
[QUOTE=mpntball2012;31416129]I didn't think to keep it running. A high pressure spray isn't necessary. Just spray down with the solution, let sit, and rinse off.[/QUOTE]
It is necessary if your degreaser isn't strong enough. And it helps even when it is, just to clean what you may have missed.
[QUOTE=justin1992;31414995]So i got basically the whole intake from the filter to the manifold off and I'm cleaning and painting the hose and filter box and whatnot but honestly, the MAF Sensor and insides of the intake aren't dirty at all...Everything I'm doing is pretty much cosmetic. I can't really think of anything else to do at this point to improve performance without straight up turbo charging it, which i can't afford, being unemployed and all. Tried to race a rice banger the other day and i was sticking with him till i heard a jet engine turbo spooling up and then he was fucking gone. Feels bad man.
[editline]29th July 2011[/editline]
Don't honestly know if my rotary can handle a turbo anyways. I've heard stories about how weak the apex seals are and it makes me wonder. I don't exactly know much about it though so.[/QUOTE]
Anyone have a spare turbo/turbo in need of a rebuild that you are planning on getting rid of/not using/broken piece of shit that i can rebuild that you think could work for my tiny engine that i could borrow(keep)? I'd be willing to pay for shipping and sheet, i just can't afford to outright buy one online. Soon as i get my Diploma (August 12'th) and find a job I could pay back if need be.
[editline]29th July 2011[/editline]
I want a turbo D: Makes me sad when some beat up piece of shit next to me spools up like...something that spools up fast and i realize that no matter how nice my car is i can't even stand up to him
sorry already made a homie hookup on a turbo for this year
i replaced my oxygen sensor
should i disconnect the negative terminal on the battery to reset the computer so that the computer knows its a new sensor, or will it automatically know?
No, as long as the oxygen sensor was replaced correctly it will work like it should.
[QUOTE=cNova;31432770]No, as long as the oxygen sensor was replaced correctly it will work like it should.[/QUOTE]
how would you replace an oxygen sensor incorrectly
just curious
[QUOTE=justin1992;31409348]Does cleaning the MAFS actually make that much of a difference? Because I've been wanting to look at mine anyways to see how it's assembled and how a cold air would attach to it anyways so i could clean it in the process, could be why it feels so gutless sometimes[/QUOTE]
yeah, i warmed my car up, took the first 0-60, drove home cleaned the maf, car was still warm, and took the second 0-60. I'd imagine mine had more of an impact because it was 221000 miles dirty but it couldn't hurt.
My wagovan runs. Fixed all the wiring bullshit, now running full D16z6 and OBD1 swap.
Rest of my turbo parts have been ordered. furk year
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;31437096]yeah, i warmed my car up, took the first 0-60, drove home cleaned the maf, car was still warm, and took the second 0-60. I'd imagine mine had more of an impact because it was 221000 miles dirty but it couldn't hurt.[/QUOTE]
next project is to clean mine
I should've done it today, but I was tired as fuck after working and replacing the oxygen sensor/cleaning the engine bay
the engine cleaner didn't work as well as I hoped. it's probably cause the engine bay has 8 years of grime in it
[editline]30th July 2011[/editline]
out of the following things, what do you guys think would be the most effective in improving gas mileage? so far I've inflated the tires to 38, replaced the oxygen sensor and air filter, and I'm going to clean the MAF sensor
FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER:
Clean fuel injectors perform better and make your engine more efficient.
Fuel Filter
Clogged or restricted fuel filters not only reduce engine performance but can allow dirt to contaminate the fuel system and cause engine wear.
PCV Valve
Malfunctioning PCV valves or dirty breather filters prohibit your engine from breathing properly and hinder engine performance.
Distributor Cap
A worn or cracked distributor cap or rotor will reduce the performance of your engine and waste gas. Inspect them during tune up, replace if corroded or worn.
also, do you think switching to synthetic oil will improve gas mileage?
thanks
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;31438491]My wagovan runs. Fixed all the wiring bullshit, now running full D16z6 and OBD1 swap.
Rest of my turbo parts have been ordered. furk year[/QUOTE]
Roflnocerous! Have you seen my new Rex?
[QUOTE=JDK721;31438813]next project is to clean mine
I should've done it today, but I was tired as fuck after working and replacing the oxygen sensor/cleaning the engine bay
the engine cleaner didn't work as well as I hoped. it's probably cause the engine bay has 8 years of grime in it
[editline]30th July 2011[/editline]
out of the following things, what do you guys think would be the most effective in improving gas mileage? so far I've inflated the tires to 38, replaced the oxygen sensor and air filter, and I'm going to clean the MAF sensor
FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER:
Clean fuel injectors perform better and make your engine more efficient.
Fuel Filter
Clogged or restricted fuel filters not only reduce engine performance but can allow dirt to contaminate the fuel system and cause engine wear.
PCV Valve
Malfunctioning PCV valves or dirty breather filters prohibit your engine from breathing properly and hinder engine performance.
Distributor Cap
A worn or cracked distributor cap or rotor will reduce the performance of your engine and waste gas. Inspect them during tune up, replace if corroded or worn.
also, do you think switching to synthetic oil will improve gas mileage?
thanks[/QUOTE]
I'd say distributor cap, you'd be surprised at how much of a difference a malfunctioning one can make. Then again i don't know much about the PCV valve.
the caps look fine
I think ill clean out the pcv valve with brake cleaner
[img]http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284052_236612489706998_100000747462026_754784_4582644_n.jpg[/img]
Automatic ECU?
[img]http://partneryahoo.photobucket.com/albums/f364/kiwigirl010/challenge-accepted.png?t=1302914842[/img]
[img]http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281816_236612409707006_100000747462026_754782_5039009_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/283990_236612379707009_100000747462026_754781_407177_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268627_236612353040345_100000747462026_754780_1720897_n.jpg[/img]
So it's not pretty, but hey, it was a 30w $5 wal-mart soldering iron.
It works.
Converted Jap's D15Z1/P07 setup to D15Z1/P28, and with his D16Z6 head it is pretty awesome, pretty peppy for everything being stock. We couldn't get a good 0-60 time down, it's close to the factory VX hatchback time which isn't bad considering it's around 7.8:1 or 8:1 compression.
Oh also his blue hood is back on there so it doesn't look so weird.
It's waiting for a turbo and then it's going to get hella boost... Thickest stock rods on any D series, biggest dished OEM pistons, best VTEC head, best ECU... ARP studs... There really isn't much better he could do unless his block was sleeved. It's going to be a fucking monster under boost.
Make sure you get some footage of it once it's complete
honda engines are seriously like lego's damn
Pretty much, although it is easy to fuck shit up if you aren't good with them. Personally, I've never messed any up, but Jap has brought me a couple of bad heads before (A D16Z6 head and a D16Y7 head both that he tried to put on his '89 CRX with a JDM D15B). They both had some bad bent valves.
But yeah, pretty easy to assemble an engine from a few blown ones laying around. The parts are really easy to bolt together and make work. The worst part about the D-series is that they are open-deck, so seeing upwards of 20PSI is pretty hard on stock sleeves, although with a block guard I've seen 24-28PSI DD'd civics.
With Jap's car, if he would order me a socket and a programmed ROM, once he gets his little frankenstein engine together (Which, by the way, looks stock as hell under the hood despite the changes we've made) with his Garrett T3/T4 cheapy hybrid turbo, decent sized intercooler... Hmm. I'd like him to run 8PSI-12PSI, so I'm guessing he's going to push around 220-250hp out of it. Keep in mind, this is on [b][u]87 octane fuel[/b][/u], on a proper 91 octane tune and some bigger injectors, he might have to push a little more (we're talking a few PSI) and he could probably net ~300hp+
It's a solid setup, and I can't wait to see it all together. It should be soon... We're talking, a month or two soon. Going to be awesome.
ragarhgblaargh. I need to get my oil shit and intercooler piping and shit. Bradley, you should help me put together a good list for all of the shit I need to get wagovan running on boost.
also new crx is p sick :< I want my old one back
[QUOTE=bradley;31474640]Honda stuff[/QUOTE]
I'm actually excited for someone over the internet.
Now all I need is to get like 300ish dollars and I can do the turbo stuff. Just having 300 dollars all at once is hard. :(
Yeah, but once you do it'll all be worth it, man.
Also, Josh put his blue hood back on since the new hood had fitment issues and wasn't painted. Looks tons better.
[editline]2nd August 2011[/editline]
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;31476057]ragarhgblaargh. I need to get my oil shit and intercooler piping and shit. Bradley, you should help me put together a good list for all of the shit I need to get wagovan running on boost.
also new crx is p sick :< I want my old one back[/QUOTE]
You have the manifold, turbo and downpipe? Get an oil feed and oil return (make sure your feed is a restricted feed so you don't blow your seals), wastegate with perhaps a spring for 8PSI and just use a MBC to increase it from there (Or 6PSI, your choice. You can always get bigger springs instead of using a boost controller), BOV (Cheap ones are fine just make sure they work, lots of those knockoffs don't open properly), intercooler piping, FMIC or you can make a DSM side mount fit alright if you're good at it (or an SRT4 IC but those are fucking big), 90-91 PM6 or a OBD0 PR4 (Or P28/P06 if you're OBD1) and preferably a ZIF socket but any socket works (I'd go to Xenocron for this, they have the best stuff) and grab a chip that's set up for the kind of fuel and boost you are running or take it to a tuner.
That's pretty much it... If you're going to be running a dozen or more PSI, I'd suggest investing in some DSM 440cc injectors or at least something in the 300-450cc range, the stock 240cc injectors are alright for low boost but getting up there they lean out on the top end and that is [i]bad news[/i].
Otherwise, I think you'd be alright. Are you running ARP studs? Block guard? If not, [i]why the fuck not[/i]? Do you plan on boosting 5PSI and keeping it under 7 grand for the rest of its life? Don't cheap out by reusing head bolts on forced induction either, if you absolutely have to use head bolts then please get new ones. ARP studs are cheap right now, less than $100 for a set. Get them. A block guard is about $65, any cheap one is fine, pop that shit in with a rubber mallet and combined with the studs you're looking at getting up to 28PSI safely. On studs alone (Open deck, no block guard) anything 20PSI and over is getting a little risky. I'd keep it at 16PSI max for a reliable engine.
Anyways this is pretty much all you need to know, it took me forever to write all of this so I don't expect automerge to work (or expect to have been ninja'd)
[editline]2nd August 2011[/editline]
Well played, automerge.
I've got manifold, turbo, intercooler (From Edbergs WRX LOLOLOL), buying chipping stuff from xeno and will probably give them $30 to get me a turbo basemap chip. No headstuds or anything yet, I've got a bone stock D16Z6 in it right now that has never been opened up. I think actually for the price I'll grab a block guard just for lols. For now, I just want to get the boost running. Probably grab a set of DSM 450s as well.
May post some pictures so you can help me identify tarbo. Need to figure out what kind of restrictor I need to be running so I don't blow the seals on this turbo. Tomorrow though.
Only markings on it are "Garrett TR0759" on the exhaust housing, along with ".49; N5S; 4Y1; H3"
Then A/R; .48; M10; 1; and then some L in the middle of a wierd bullseye.
Well, get some oil lines, block guard, ARP studs, and get your chipping stuff. I'd reccomend using a good 50-60w iron, that solder in the ecu is pretty tough stuff.
Pics of the turbo would be nice. Sounds like it's a pretty small T3 of some sort, although I'm also getting the hint from a quick search that it could be a T25.
So i had a problem with my door:
[video=youtube;lPS768E5RxQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPS768E5RxQ&feature=player_embedded[/video]
It was so annoying ...
I checkd it and there were some screws loose .. tighten them up .. result:
[video=youtube;XnGy0cXaqi8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnGy0cXaqi8&feature=channel_video_title[/video]
I know theres still a bit of a noise .. but meh .. Much better then before
edit:
found the issue... of the noise thats still there
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Ra07N.jpg[/img]
a broken flat washer ^^
now how do i replace that ? lol
dropped car off at bodyshop today
gonna be a long week :<
Shifter was being held in by one nut and the linkage wasn't tightened down, so I jack the car up today on the front towhooks, done it a million times on my Civic and CRX I've had before, my friends' Civics, everything. Get it up in the air, go to get jack stands... BOOM! There goes my GOD DAMNED FRONT BUMPER FUCK.
It just popped the brackets out, I took the bumper skin off and realigned everything as best I could for now. I'll fix it better later, when I have time to pull the corner lights too. I'm just glad I can feel all of my gears now and I also fixed my exhaust so it isn't squeaking.
I was pretty stressed about money problems, and I had actually told my dad I wouldn't be able to pay him for the CRX (I owe him $625 for the car, I got it with the engine in pieces and whatnot) and he'd probably just have to take it back. He practically told me "Forget about it, drive it. I know you have bigger things to worry about" and so I practically gave him a big IOU for the car until further notice.
Now time to figure out how I'm going to pay rent and shit. Anyone want to buy a Subaru 4WD wagon? :\
Today I acquired this.
[img]http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/944/huegz.jpg[/img]
What's the big'n?
From the size of it, it looks like it came off a diesel. Maybe a really big V8?
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