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This is what it looked like 8 months ago when a friend of mine slid it into friend's integra and an ex-friend slid into my rear bumper and pushed the car further in but the rear still isn't fixed.
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A new fender and bumper support bracket lined it all up so well that you can't really tell until you notice the 1/4" difference in the body line of the fender compared to the door.
$250 for the all the pieces someone took off for a JDM front after he tapped a guard rail with his drivers side in a color which is pretty fucking close to mine? Was an absolute steal, just wish I could have seen his car :( Shit I even got a radiator and ac condenser along with the whole front clip, core support and all.
Along with a mild drop on H&R sports, Skunk2 sport shocks, a Exedy stage 2 clutch with a 11.2lb flywheel, Hawk ceramic pads and Russel stainless steel brake lines. I think I'm going to be very happy with my car again, it's going to be like having a whole new car but with all of the attachment and memories of my first car too.
Not a bad 'teg. I used to have a red one sitting on Del Sol fat fives but I traded it for my first CRX and haven't had an Integra since.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;34285913]What have you been using to break up the rust? PB Blaster is really good for that, and Marvel Mystery oil. The motto for that stuff should be "NOM NOM SLUDGE AND RUST".[/QUOTE]
The rust isn't really holding anything together, apart from the cylinders, which I've been using Aero Kroil and leverage to loosen things up.
[QUOTE=bradley;34289569]Not a bad 'teg. I used to have a red one sitting on Del Sol fat fives but I traded it for my first CRX and haven't had an Integra since.[/QUOTE]
I also have a terribly abused 90' Integra with a b16a swap that needs a timing belt and valve tappet nuts, I'll have to get that thing running before I do anything to my car to prevent from getting overwhelmed again lol. Now that's going to be a fun project.. Hopefully my friend who usually gives me a hand when working on cars will finally be able to help again in a couple weeks since he hasn't been able to in a couple months. I love integras but my next favorite honda by far is a CRX.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;34289900]The rust isn't really holding anything together, apart from the cylinders, which I've been using Aero Kroil and leverage to loosen things up.[/QUOTE]
What ever works, you think with enough tlc that thing would run again?
[QUOTE=slayer3032;34293719]I also have a terribly abused 90' Integra with a b16a swap that needs a timing belt and valve tappet nuts, I'll have to get that thing running before I do anything to my car to prevent from getting overwhelmed again lol. Now that's going to be a fun project.. Hopefully my friend who usually gives me a hand when working on cars will finally be able to help again in a couple weeks since he hasn't been able to in a couple months. I love integras but my next favorite honda by far is a CRX.[/QUOTE]
I'm still a total EF hatch guy, I'm getting rid of the CRX to Japfeiffer/The Pfeiffenator for his EG hatch though. It's got a motor I built for boost that he never boosted, so I've got my kit ready for it.
If I can I might grab a CRX to hold me off until I can get work done to the rolla.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;34297078]What ever works, you think with enough tlc that thing would run again?[/QUOTE]
In its current form, no, I would need to buy some replacement parts. Luckily, even though Onan stopped producing parts years ago, some people still stock parts. Apparently, these engines were used mostly for RV and fire-truck generators.
I'll probably end up selling it to pay for parts for the GTO or cleaning it and making a neat table out of it.
Also, is it okay to use water to clean mud and sand out of an aluminum cylinder head? I can't make much progress getting the crank out without cleaning all the crap out of the cylinders.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;34302381]In its current form, no, I would need to buy some replacement parts. Luckily, even though Onan stopped producing parts years ago, some people still stock parts. Apparently, these engines were used mostly for RV and fire-truck generators.
I'll probably end up selling it to pay for parts for the GTO or cleaning it and making a neat table out of it.
Also, is it okay to use water to clean mud and sand out of an aluminum cylinder head? I can't make much progress getting the crank out without cleaning all the crap out of the cylinders.[/QUOTE]
Unless you leave the water in it for like, more then 3 weeks then no. otherwise as long as you dry it out within at least 2 days you should be good.
I had Briggs 5 HP cool-bore (aluminum cylinder) that had water in it up to the spark plug that sat for almost a year. after some vigorous cleaning, that sucker was running in no time. Gotta love a good Briggs and Stratton, can take alot of abuse and keep on kartin'.
adjusting the kickdown cable tomorrow
so I can shift upwards
[QUOTE=Scientwist;34304191]Unless you leave the water in it for like, more then 3 weeks then no. otherwise as long as you dry it out within at least 2 days you should be good.
I had Briggs 5 HP cool-bore (aluminum cylinder) that had water in it up to the spark plug that sat for almost a year. after some vigorous cleaning, that sucker was running in no time. Gotta love a good Briggs and Stratton, can take alot of abuse and keep on kartin'.[/QUOTE]
I had an old lawn tractor with a Briggs & Stratton 18hp flat twin. I only ever had to put a new starter on that thing, and I reused the head gaskets several times haha. I ran that thing off of all sorts of fuels and things, and the little 1" exhausts I made up for it were great.
Things I've ran a Briggs engine off of:
Gasoline (Obviously)
Propane
Diesel fuel
Kerosene
Vegetable Oil & Isopropyl Alcohol
Woke up at 7:00 AM and finished concealing my subwoofer wires. Also tuned them and they sound 300% better.
Sold the purple slug today
Guy came up handed me $500 cash and loaded it up on a dolly, took that shit home.
Time to buy MMF2 so I can finally crank out a game and make moneys maybe.
[QUOTE=bradley;34306247]I had an old lawn tractor with a Briggs & Stratton 18hp flat twin. I only ever had to put a new starter on that thing, and I reused the head gaskets several times haha. I ran that thing off of all sorts of fuels and things, and the little 1" exhausts I made up for it were great.
Things I've ran a Briggs engine off of:
Gasoline (Obviously)
Propane
Diesel fuel
Kerosene
Vegetable Oil & Isopropyl Alcohol[/QUOTE]
HA ha, I did the same thing with the isopropyl, only it was straight. It would have been great cuz it runs so cold but keeping it choked so tight just makes it difficult to deal with. Unless you set up to run 10:1 alcohol/air mix or way higher. Never tried diesel, propane scares me a bit much and I could never get my hands on kerosene. If i wanted veggie oil I'd have to filter out the oil from my dads iron skillet, but that was then. (like 8 years ago)
I ran 25% nitro in a weed eater once.
I wish I had a garage, I found an AE86 with an untouched 4AGZE and a manual tranny in it at pick-n-pull (however it looked like the back had been set on fire at one point). I almost came. I'd have to do some major metalwork to fit it into my Camry though.
Think I might order this when my tax refund comes in: [url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-2141/[/url]
Although it'll probably be less than helpful unless I take it in to get the shocks done.
4agze + camry = fuck
[QUOTE=BldrGyMnGy;34320284]4agze + camry = fuck[/QUOTE]
POWWWWEEEEEEEERRRRRR
Have to admit, it's a beautiful engine though
Someone on ToyotaNation swears all the S engines use the same basic motor mount, I wonder how hard it would be to drop in the engine from a Gen2 camry in the future, I like my 2SELC but fuck if it isn't impossible to find parts for it
Today I'm not going to work on anything because I haven't got my EG yet.
But I am going to start development on my dev team's first game. We'll see how that goes.
Also I might dick around with some steel and try to weld a little on a manifold design for a topmount T3 for my EG so I can keep A/C. But I don't know if I can do it. Would be cool... I love topmount manifolds.
I've been slowly working on this;
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Lots of hole filling (there was trim along the doors. We took the trim off last time we painted it, but all we had to fill it with was silicone)
The color I will (hopefully) be painting the car in the end is what I've painted my scoops and vents (the paint I have for the body is some sort of marine paint. my dad thought of the idea)
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I'll have to redo my grill. I decided I want to paint it differently than I did.
I did something like 5 coats of primer, and 5 coats of paint
List of other things to fix/replace:
Broken corner light bracket (kid in parking lot clipped it and broke it. my dad glued it, but it didn't hold)
rear tires (3-4mm left on tread)
rear bumper (it's been barely hanging on since I was rear-ended over a year ago)
wiring around where the front foglights were (it's been hanging for a little while)
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B&M Ratchet Shifter in the T-Bird! :D
I can't.
At first glance it looked like a manual that had melted :v:
Bled my clutch and dumped the last of my brake fluid through it, transmission shifts like butter and the clutch isn't an on/off switch in the middle of the petal anymore. It still feels the same but I think the air or the nasty ass fluid in it wasn't letting the clutch go in all the way too as the transmission had a similar engagement into each gear as before. Short of getting used of the new clutch it works perfectly from what I can tell.
Now I need to change the transmission fluid again, get new tie rods and balljoints put in along with my new rear struts while getting an alignment done. Then somewhere along the lines of I should probably flush my power steering fluid as the pump makes a really nasty noise when it's cold.
I want to change the transmission fluid on my civic, but i don't have the funds for fluid, and i'll need to get some rubber tubing to funnel the fluid to the fill hole(so it seems, based on youtube).
Make sure it's more than a foot or so, I bought one that seemed "just" long enough and I have to jam it between AC lines and pop the funnel off. 3 bottles of Honda MTF is like $17 from my local dealer, it's well worth it and if it hasn't been done it's totally worth it.
I wonder how much i would benefit from it. The transmission already shifts really well, and never grinds or anything, and i want to keep it that way. I don't know the last time it was done; i have only had it for less than a month. I'll take care of it sometime soon.
Honda recommends every 30k but very few people do it at all. It definitely wouldn't hurt, just make sure to put Honda's MTF into it and not something like Redline synthetic. My personal experiences with it weren't that great and it is said to cause higher syncro wear because of having more friction modifiers in it. Drained it all out and the transmission which had been feeling significantly worse since changing to it 20k miles before, now feels better than when I bought it.
You can also use 5w-30 but I've heard that the detergents put in motor oils aren't great for your transmission. Although I know a few people who put 5w-30 in and their transmissions have lasted just as long. The Honda stuff isn't all that expensive so I've just always opt'd for that and it's what Honda/Acura suggests.
I don't know why you waste money on Honda MTF. It's 30 weight motor oil in a fancy bottle. Haha.
I've always ran 5w30 in my trannies, 10w30 in summer. It only takes two quarts and the brand doesn't matter, it's all the same stuff (I wouldn't run cheaper shit in my engine, but that's just because the engine has more fine areas than the tranny. It's just an open box with gears everywhere).
$5 of wal-mart oil is enough to change your tranny fluid. Get like, 2 feet of hose. One foot is... Still a bit of a hassle. Depends on the bay layout really.
Motor oil won't hurt a Honda tranny. The detergents put in motor oil won't hurt those hardened steel gears. Think about it, would you trust Honda's MTF tranny oil in your rod bearings? They take on much more wear than the transmission gears and they certainly aren't nearly as hardened. If anything Honda MTF is worse than motor oil for lubrication.
Personally I've seen far more people use 5w30, and I've never seen the choice in fluid make much difference.
I have seen some dumb shits use syncromesh gear oil though, or regular gear oil, which is TOO HEAVY.
[QUOTE=bradley;34351865]I don't know why you waste money on Honda MTF. It's 30 weight motor oil in a fancy bottle. Haha.
I've always ran 5w30 in my trannies, 10w30 in summer. It only takes two quarts and the brand doesn't matter, it's all the same stuff (I wouldn't run cheaper shit in my engine, but that's just because the engine has more fine areas than the tranny. It's just an open box with gears everywhere).
$5 of wal-mart oil is enough to change your tranny fluid. Get like, 2 feet of hose. One foot is... Still a bit of a hassle. Depends on the bay layout really.
Motor oil won't hurt a Honda tranny. The detergents put in motor oil won't hurt those hardened steel gears. Think about it, would you trust Honda's MTF tranny oil in your rod bearings? They take on much more wear than the transmission gears and they certainly aren't nearly as hardened. If anything Honda MTF is worse than motor oil for lubrication.
Personally I've seen far more people use 5w30, and I've never seen the choice in fluid make much difference.
I have seen some dumb shits use syncromesh gear oil though, or regular gear oil, which is TOO HEAVY.[/QUOTE]
Every time you post this stuff I want a 90's Civic/CR-X a little more, so I can put this advice to work.
my r154 require some heavy ass oil (90W). Don't know how you guys manage to make them trannys survive with light oil like 30w
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