• Project Highlander
    74 replies, posted
[QUOTE=FloaterTWO;42438712]Do you have plans for any kind of extractor, or are you just going to unload it by hand?[/QUOTE] The chamber cutouts make it a piece of cake to extract fired shells. Grenade and shotgun extractors are just there to lift the empty casing a few millimeters so that the user can grab the rim- with the cutouts that's doable when they're fully chambered. [QUOTE=FloaterTWO;42438712]And what're you planning on using to keep the barrels closed?[/QUOTE] I didn't show it in the pics but there's a hole in the top through which I'm going to mount a combination rear sight/latch. It'll be straight-pull, like a Goblin, to unlock. I was originally going to have an M79-style lever but then realized that with the frame being way too big to reach the lever with the firing hand, there was no practical benefit to such a system. This method will be mechanically simpler and just as durable.
Progress! Note the reinforced triggers- I took two strips of brass, folded them in half lengthwise using two pairs of pliers and a clamp, then slowly bent them to fit the contours of the triggers before epoxying in place. Now there's no risk of trigger breakage when firing. Also, a stock! As I said before the wooden stock will not be usable until I can get a longer screwdriver, and even then I totally forgot to bring my painting equipment with me so I can't refinish it. Oh well, and it'll make it on there sooner or later. [img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l296/catbarf/Airsoft/100_0351_zps500af2ec.jpg[/img] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwrUBdQ5q88&feature=youtu.be[/media]
I wish I could do things like this or the China Lake launcher.
It's looking really good so far, well done.
[QUOTE=Dark Descent;42450407]I wish I could do things like this or the China Lake launcher.[/QUOTE] I want to point out that excluding the jigsaw that I used for all of ten minutes and could replace with a hacksaw, my entire tools list is: -screwdrivers -pliers -clamps -ruler -hacksaw -sandpaper and steel files -Dremel for sanding and drilling holes That's it. One of my main goals here was to see what I could build starting with basically nothing. I'm not an engineer- if I can do this, anyone can. My next project will probably be a single-barrel grenade pistol styled after a flare gun, and it'll be even simpler. Perhaps I could made a how-to from it.
This looks like a good project for christmas or next summer. I really like the idea of a loch n load
No pics tonight, but I'm 95% certain I'll be finished construction tomorrow night. All that remains are the body sanding, action lock, and ladder sight.
Let it never be said that I don't deliver on my promises. All that remains is sanding, gap-filling, minor reshaping, and then paint. [img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l296/catbarf/Airsoft/100_0356_zps7f0607a2.jpg[/img]
how much did it all cost to make?
A little over a hundred bucks for all the parts and tools, excluding the Dremel, and another $30 shipped for the stock. A lot of that comes down to the high price of solvents and glues, but now I have tools that I can reuse in future projects.
It's just an idea, and you may have done this already, but how about adding 2 panels on each side of the receiver to protect the shells when the barrels are down? It's not really necessary but I thought the less they're exposed to dirt and stuff the better. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/5XlBOFY.png[/IMG] You could always leave a tiny notch in these panels to see whether or not each barrel is loaded.
Not a bad idea at all! It would also help ensure the barrels stay aligned and prevent unwanted flex. I'll definitely take a look at it when I get home and see how feasible it is. Good call.
Ooh, that's a smart idea, and you can do it with plexiglass if you want to ensure you can see the shells without compromising the benefits.
Had a look at it and it unfortunately it doesn't look practical. The main problem is that because the barrels are circular, a plate covering them needs to extend pretty far out the side. We're looking at an overall 1" or so increase in width, which would make carrying it on a sling difficult at best, and I'd be concerned about durability. I did some testing with shells and they fit such that dirt getting into them shouldn't be an issue- if it is, some sort of covering will definitely be the solution.
Painting! Not the best photo I've ever taken but it gets the point across. This is several coats, with sanding in between, of Rustoleum High Heat Black, which is intended for barbecues. As you can see it's not really black, more an extremely matte dark grey that reminds me a lot of parkerized finishes. However, the next step is to buff graphite into it, so that tone is not going to stay and the finished product will have a much more metallic look. [img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l296/catbarf/Airsoft/100_0360_zpsda935f36.jpg[/img]
IT! IS! DONE! Tomorrow I'll be taking better photos and possibly a firing test of my new ammunition. [img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l296/catbarf/Airsoft/100_0362_zps768f71dd.jpg[/img]
dat wood stock on black coloration hng
If you want something a little less "civilian shotgun" [url]http://www.fredsm14stocks.com/Something-different-M14-Stubs-Fair-VG-3-PJ0018.htm[/url]
is that a good hng or a bad hng The stock is slightly darker in person, as you can see in the work in progress shot above, but it's a good complement to the gunmetal grey. I was initially set on refinishing it, but now I'm not so sure. I might just burn some tiger stripe into it and call it a day. Edit: Nah, civvie shotgun was the idea. Aesthetically my goal was to blend the China Lake GL, the Loch n Load from TF2, and an over/under 12ga shotgun. I think I managed that pretty well, all things considered.
it's a good thing hence the winnar rating it's like two tone goodness with wood
I'd fuck that
How's the durability of the material? Aren't you afraid of triggers breaking, or even the entire thing right at the stock joint?
[QUOTE=BBOOBBYY!;42507544]How's the durability of the material? Aren't you afraid of triggers breaking, or even the entire thing right at the stock joint?[/QUOTE] The acrylic can bend along its thin axis when it's in individual sheets, but with it bolted together the way it is it's not going anywhere. For the triggers I was concerned about breakage, so I fit a 3mm strip of brass running along the outside of each, forcing it to retain its shape. For the stock, after I screwed it together I held it by the stock and started swinging it around like a baseball bat, seemed to hold up fine. I figure if I can't break it when I'm deliberately trying, it ain't going anywhere. Actually I'm making one more modification at the moment, I am re-painting just the forward grip to have a more plastic look in like with the China Lake. Somewhere down the road when I have access to my paint and brushes I'll probably change it to a faux wood finish.
[img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l296/catbarf/Airsoft/100_0371_zpsc1b9fc6f.jpg[/img] [img]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l296/catbarf/Airsoft/100_0370_zps65ae2f47.jpg[/img] I also have been experimenting with ammo, documented [url=http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1267356&p=42510759&viewfull=1#post42510759]here[/url].
It's beautiful
godDAMn
Thank you! I am 100% definitely going to be making a firing test video this Friday at the IFAP meetup. My next project is probably going to be a 40mm single-shot pistol stylized as somewhere between a Colt Dragoon and a flare gun.
[QUOTE=catbarf;42511957] My next project is probably going to be a 40mm single-shot pistol stylized as somewhere between a Colt Dragoon and a flare gun.[/QUOTE] Just for the record everyone, it actually looks a lot better than it sounds.
[QUOTE=notrabies;42513534]Just for the record everyone, it actually looks a lot better than it sounds.[/QUOTE] Basically gonna rip off this. [img]http://img.redwolfairsoft.com/upload/product/img/ek-40mmlauncher-l.jpg[/img] And improve the design in a few ways.
hey catbarf, i'm planning on making a standalone GL similar to this, but with a pistol grip and a single tube. What was the width of the PVC that you used? And could you throw your trigger design my way via PM or something? It'd make everything easier. The Engineer Way.
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