[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;48952187]* Maximum initial battery voltage (measured without a workload) is 20 volts. Nominal voltage is 18.
Fucking lol.[/QUOTE]
18.5V to be specific
because 5x3.7V
How "relatively" hard is it to buy a 1970's beetle and turn it into a baja?
got some questions if anyone wouldnt mind helping
thinking of buying a supra, is that a bad idea nowadays? and also if you buy a non turbo model is it hard (or even possible) to put the twin turbos in?
also,[I] if[/I] its an auto, would there be any way of getting flappy paddles?
cheers!
What series Supra?
[QUOTE=Mad.Hatter;48947709]I'd love to hear it. Can you make a video?[/QUOTE]
Aside from my phone and walking around my car, I don’t have a good way to record audio. Although, I’ve certainly thought about recording video.
Either way, it’s not going to be anything you can’t already find videos of on Youtube. [url=Brian Gabel has a video up of my exact configuration (Cobb Stage 1 tune + Nameless catback)[/url], so this is what it sounds like.
At least on video anyway. It’s very difficult to capture and reproduce what exhaust sounds like in person. I think it sounds way better in person.
Maybe if I could find some way to tape my phone to my head GoPro style I would do a recording. I can’t exactly drive while holding my phone.
[editline]21st October 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Amplar;48950295]get an up, a dp, and a tune and you'll get an easy 10-20% improvement in output. FA20 is a great motor.[/QUOTE]
I've already got an OTS tune with an Accessport. It was the very first thing I did, mostly to get rid of the awful rev hang and make the car smoother to drive. It was seriously night and day how much easier the car was to drive because of the much more linear throttle. The stock throttle is scaled down to like 20% throttle is WOT, which made it very difficult to do anything in between very slow and very fast.
An up-pipe for the new engine is something I haven't read about or even heard about until now. I've read a lot about the downpipe though, and I'm thinking about it for a future upgrade. I'm definitely in no hurry though, and if I did do it, I'd just be doing it for the sound/feel. The WRX is already [I]plenty[/I] fast for me so making the car even faster isn't much of a priority. A downpipe is probably the extent to which I'll mod the engine, and if I ever do that I'll probably go for an e-tune, maybe protune, to get the most out of it.
[QUOTE=hogofwar;48954479]How "relatively" hard is it to buy a 1970's beetle and turn it into a baja?[/QUOTE]
Exhausting work for little to no reward 40+ hrs a week with no real foreseeable future.
Oh. A beetle... I thought we were on the subject of place of employment....
If you have money, if you can simply bolt shit on. You can make yourself a baja bug.
The skill is the engine work and diagnosing cheaply made part issues and solving them.
So I started working on the car today to finish the rest of my repairs form that trip to Idaho. Fucking ran out of yellow sleeve spade connectors so I'll have to finish tomorrow.
Meanwhile when I pulled the alternator I already knew I had one broken bolt but there should be two more on the underside. One was missing as well. How fucking long has that been missing???
Took my family's 2005 LX470 with 225,000 miles into the dealer to get serviced. It has had some VSC and check engine light on for months but drove fine. Power steering recently started to go iffy.
Initial results shows it was 45,000 miles overdue for major maintenance 2 (supposed to be done every 90k), which is a $2000 service on its own. They were gonna look at it more in depth and call back.
Received the call today...
Total cost to repair everything would be $8,000.
Eight thousand dollars.
The car would be worth about $14,000 if everything was working.
Dealer said it isn't even worth fixing at that point.
My mom is probably just gonna sell it for whatever someone will pay for it and probably not replace it with anything.
A moment of silence for my fallen love...
[t]http://preview.netcarshow.com/Lexus-LX470-2003-1280-04.jpg[/t]
[B]RIP
2005 Lexus LX470 a.k.a "Big Bertha"
2004-2015
225,000 miles of quiet highway cruising, crawling through sand dunes and getting groceries in a foot of snow.[/B]
Get a second opinion from a place with not-dealer-pricing?
The fucking light was on. did they actually tell you what was broken, or just "gimme me 8 grand Ill make the light go away"?
[QUOTE=dwt110;48956235]Took my family's 2005 LX470 with 225,000 miles into the dealer to get serviced. It has had some VSC and check engine light on for months but drove fine. Power steering recently started to go iffy.
Initial results shows it was 45,000 miles overdue for major maintenance 2 (supposed to be done every 90k), which is a $2000 service on its own. They were gonna look at it more in depth and call back.
Received the call today...
Total cost to repair everything would be $8,000.
Eight thousand dollars.
The car would be worth about $14,000 if everything was working.
Dealer said it isn't even worth fixing at that point.
My mom is probably just gonna sell it for whatever someone will pay for it and probably not replace it with anything.
A moment of silence for my fallen love...
[t]http://preview.netcarshow.com/Lexus-LX470-2003-1280-04.jpg[/t]
[B]RIP
2005 Lexus LX470 a.k.a "Big Bertha"
2004-2015
225,000 miles of quiet highway cruising, crawling through sand dunes and getting groceries in a foot of snow.[/B][/QUOTE]
I will give you $1k for it. Let me know when I can pick it up.
Also WTF is this dealer 'maintenance' they want to do?
Timing belt / water pump (if it's a timing belt engine) - $1000 or so
Replace all fluids; trans / coolant / oil / differentials - $300 maybe including trans pan gasket and filter
Power steering; Rack.. lines..pump? $500 to $1000, maybe? Pump or steering gear I would assume? just spitballin there.
Dealership can drink some tranny fluid out of Kenny Chesney's pisshole if you ask me. Bunch of dumb mouth breathers who know how to swap parts on one specific make.
In all seriousness, though. If it's timing belt engine it does, does, does need to be replaced within spec (60k is common). That's all a Toyota engine needs to live forever, keep feeding it belts as necessary.
I'd bet an independent mechanic would be able to get it set to roll for half of what the dealer quoted, or lower. The fact that they say 'it's not worth fixing' probably means they want to sell her a new truck.
So fuck the dealer. The only reason to take a car to the dealer to get fixed is if it's under warranty or you drive a Ferrari.
[QUOTE=dwt110;48956235]Took my family's 2005 LX470 with 225,000 miles into the dealer to get serviced. It has had some VSC and check engine light on for months but drove fine. Power steering recently started to go iffy.
Initial results shows it was 45,000 miles overdue for major maintenance 2 (supposed to be done every 90k), which is a $2000 service on its own. They were gonna look at it more in depth and call back.
Received the call today...
Total cost to repair everything would be $8,000.
Eight thousand dollars.
The car would be worth about $14,000 if everything was working.
Dealer said it isn't even worth fixing at that point.
My mom is probably just gonna sell it for whatever someone will pay for it and probably not replace it with anything.
A moment of silence for my fallen love...
[t]http://preview.netcarshow.com/Lexus-LX470-2003-1280-04.jpg[/t]
[B]RIP
2005 Lexus LX470 a.k.a "Big Bertha"
2004-2015
225,000 miles of quiet highway cruising, crawling through sand dunes and getting groceries in a foot of snow.[/B][/QUOTE]
Being that I work as a mechanic, and have heard and seen the prices [i]for[/i] an independent shop, I have never seen the bill go over 5 grand and that's an entire engine and transmission change.
That dealer is [i]absolutely[/i] trying to get her to buy a new truck or car an I'll bet my left nut it's on some kinda payment plan that she would end up paying way more then if she just got it fixed at a shop.
Fuck warranty at this point (if it still has it), take it to a reputable shop and get er done right, that's a load of horse shit on the dealers part.
That's why we all call them "Stealer Ships".
Yah I went to toyota to try and track down a replacement seat they want between 3500-6000 depending on who answers the phone that day.
[QUOTE=clutch2;48954998]What series Supra?[/QUOTE]
Any, really. I'm not too fussed but ideally a series 2
[t]http://i.imgur.com/SIcGS2a.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ssVnq23.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/T5XP7km.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Tiu0yzs.jpg[/t]
Since april, I am (together with two other students at my university) the owner of this car. It's a BMW E28 520i, built in 1985. It has a 2.0-liter straight-six that produces 125 hp at 5800 rpm and 170 Nm of torque at 4000 rpm, hooked up to a 5-speed manual tranny. The only options this car got straight out of the factory are the "heat-resistant" (poor translation) windows and the metallic paint (Platanengrün). (The electrically adjustable mirrors weren't an option, they were standard. :v:) The slightly wider-than-standard wheels (which are one size too small) with 15" rims are our doing, when the time comes we'll put better tyres on it (in the right size).
What it looked like when we first saw it;
[t]http://i.imgur.com/giRG6Yx.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/RmPvWrK.jpg[/t]
It had been standing still inside of a shed for 15 years or something. The current owner had to let it go because he didn't have the time to work on it anymore. When we washed off all of the dust, the paint was revealed to be in awesome condition. We couldn't find almost any rust on it (all of which is limited to the car's bottom side). We fixed the leaky exhaust, replaced one of the fuel injectors (up until then it was running on 5 cylinders, now back to a glorious 6), put a rev counter in place of the clock (which was, almost surprisingly, just a plug-and-play affair), replaced the wheels with wider ones (although one size too small) and did lots of other minor stuff. Also the rear window had become unresponsive, so we took the doorpanel off, glued it back into its frame, put the doorpanel back on and now it works like never before. That's the great thing about these cars.
How it runs? [B]Magnificently.[/B] Up until this point, I never had anything with older cars. In contrast to the stories you might hear about children staring out of the living room window, watching daddy come home in *insert car name here* every day, developing childhood love for that car and later going on to driving one themselves. No such thing with this E28, no prior experience to help it bond to me, but it just kept on growing on me and now I'm determined (together with the other two guys) to keep it and have it do what it was meant to do: [I]drive[/I].
[video=youtube;FICWD6zMYL8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FICWD6zMYL8[/video]
It was properly warmed up, don't worry! We also had the (70 liters!) tank filled up with Aral Ultimate 102 octane fuel. Leads to a noticeable difference in suppleness and the acoustics of the engine become smoother. You can also see the ghost of electronics haunting the speedometer, we'll go about fixing that when we manage to stop driving this car continuously for long enough.
So the 520i was the next most basic engine after the 518i four-cylinder. But it certainly isn't lacking in the performance department! Sure, you have to poke it a bit to go fast, but you can step on the gas at 1300 rpm and it will just start walking to whichever speed you had in mind. No complaints, no nasty vibrations. You can stay below 2000 rpm and it will do its job. Always. But it's kind of hard since the sound will always invite you to pull onwards to 3000 (where it starts singing) or 4000 or 5000 rpm or even further, which rewards you by the engine just pulling harder and harder, right up to the 6250 rpm redline. It's just incredibly addictive and a joy at every turn. All the while, the fuel consumption remains fine at an average of about 9.5 L / 100 km (about 25 mpg). We could do better (our best is 7.5 L / 100 km or 33.5 mpg), but it's just too much fun.
As for the rest of the driving experience? I've had my driver's license for over 1.5 years now and in that short time I've driven almost 25 different vehicles, but none of them can really compare to this car. The amount of feedback in the steering wheel and pedals is phenomenal. Shifting gears is a pleasure and you can feel exactly what's going on. All of this is helped by the fact that the gas pedal is directly connected to the throttle with a cable! Nothing like a non-linear electronic throttle-mapping to make you think the engine is very powerful when you push the pedal half-way, only to be disappointing when you push the pedal further. With this car, you know exactly where you are with the throttle and how much reserve you still have.
Suspension is set up comfortably without becoming too soft, there's lots of interior space (fun fact: this car is smaller and lighter than the current 3-series, but offers more interior space than the current 5-series) and all the sound isolation is good. Although the back left shock absorber is dying on us and is influencing driving characteristics and the stance of the car, but we'll be replacing both shocks and springs on the rear axle soon enough. After all of that, I'm planning to take this car and drive it to Scotland from the Netherlands which is about a 2500 kilometer round trip.
All in all, we're glad to be the stewards of this car and to keep it in as good and as original a condition as possible. Lots of driving fun and eye candy.
im jealous, i want an e28.
[QUOTE=Psygo;48957808]im jealous, i want an e28.[/QUOTE]
They're not that hard to come by, just watch out for rust. Other problems are ridiculously easy to fix (see the window example!) and BMW maintains a stock of spare parts for older models. Just make sure that the BMW dealer is your last stop for parts since things can get expensive. The engines are very reliable also. Take good care of the car and it'll last for ages.
Older bmws are pretty uncommon in the states
[editline]22nd October 2015[/editline]
I'm retarded
[QUOTE=Del91;48957832]Older bmws are pretty uncommon in the states
[editline]22nd October 2015[/editline]
I'm retarded[/QUOTE]
Hehehe. But yeah, when looking at older BMWs, finding one in neat condition is usually tough. Also, BMWs in the 1990-2000 range regularly fall victim to distasteful body kits and excessive tuning. Luckily, the E28 is spared in that regard.
[QUOTE=JesseR92;48957041]Yah I went to toyota to try and track down a replacement seat they want between 3500-6000 depending on who answers the phone that day.[/QUOTE]
Toyota wants an arm and leg for interior pieces. They wanted to charge me $200 a pop for the fucking [I]sunvisors[/I]. Pieces of cardboard with some fabric.
So, coolest car to enter our workshop came in on tow truck...
A motherfucking VH Chrysler Valiant Charger R/T
Looks exactly like this but with more decals
[img]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/29/Chrysler_Valiant_VH_Charger_RT_%283%29.jpg/800px-Chrysler_Valiant_VH_Charger_RT_%283%29.jpg[/img]
Never seen a bigger petrol inline six than this, 265ci (4.3L). I mean I've seen pics before but it's so fucking massive in person, even for a OHV engine. I reaaally want a VH a lot more now.
Pretty weird how the rear passenger ashtrays are located in the backs of the neck-area of the front seats. They just stand out way too much.
Serj you should ditch the Slant and go with a Hemi 6! It'd be totally worth importing one
I love Aussie muscle cars - I wish it was cheaper to ship cars across the pond.
[QUOTE=clutch2;48956638]I will give you $1k for it. Let me know when I can pick it up.
Also WTF is this dealer 'maintenance' they want to do?
Timing belt / water pump (if it's a timing belt engine) - $1000 or so
Replace all fluids; trans / coolant / oil / differentials - $300 maybe including trans pan gasket and filter
Power steering; Rack.. lines..pump? $500 to $1000, maybe? Pump or steering gear I would assume? just spitballin there.
[/QUOTE]
All Toyota V8s are timing belt motors, the job costs $700 at an indie (water pump inclusive)
Have that done, and clear the service light (the how to is in the owners manual). As far as the VSC light, it's prolly a wheel speed sensor or something stupid. Buy a code reader and pull the codes. And change your fluids.
There is absolutely no reason to get rid of one of the best trucks money can buy
dwt pls show this thread to yer fam
So, after the racingcar was done we had a race last saturday. But that sucked massive dicks as I've
1. Never had an official race before
2. Never drove in the rain
And guess what, this saturday I had to race in the rain. Video is pretty boring. Ended up on 6th place out of 34.
However I did went to the track today and was greeted with a DRY track ! So I smashed my old personal record. New record : 2.05
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbHIHLMoTKw[/media]
[QUOTE=The Decoy;48958147]So, coolest car to enter our workshop came in on tow truck...
A motherfucking VH Chrysler Valiant Charger R/T
Looks exactly like this but with more decals
[img]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/29/Chrysler_Valiant_VH_Charger_RT_%283%29.jpg/800px-Chrysler_Valiant_VH_Charger_RT_%283%29.jpg[/img]
Never seen a bigger petrol inline six than this, 265ci (4.3L). I mean I've seen pics before but it's so fucking massive in person, even for a OHV engine. I reaaally want a VH a lot more now.
Pretty weird how the rear passenger ashtrays are located in the backs of the neck-area of the front seats. They just stand out way too much.
Serj you should ditch the Slant and go with a Hemi 6! It'd be totally worth importing one[/QUOTE]
Its totally not worth importing one. I know where 2 are currently in Wa state. He wants $1500 for the pair which is a good deal, but I would have to find a different lower frame to allow that inline to sit under the hood. Also parts are not available except through aussiespeed for anything you need. Theyre also not a "hemi" but more of a "offset" head so the name is kinda misleading. I would do it if it were cheaper but its just way to expensive to make a 264 work in the u.s.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_1327.jpg[/IMG]
It's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard of to remedy a starter problem but it fucking worked.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;48958529]I love Aussie muscle cars - I wish it was cheaper to ship cars across the pond.[/QUOTE]
I just looked up some prices on a RORO from the US to AUS and it was $1300, if you wanna do the foot work you could probably get something around $10,000 under $2,500 landed. I think it's usually around $3500 for a RI to do it all for you. Dunno how much cars go for over there.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;48958147]Never seen a bigger petrol inline six than this, 265ci (4.3L). I mean I've seen pics before but it's so fucking massive in person, even for a OHV engine. I reaaally want a VH a lot more now.
[/QUOTE]
There's the Jimmy Six, a 302cid straight-six:
[t]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x10/bgbdlinc/DSC00320.jpg[/t]
[t]http://images60.fotki.com/v1548/photos/3/346639/1923729/DSC07272-vi.jpg[/t]
Apparently it's a pretty good hot-rodding engine.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48961920]302cid straight-six:[/QUOTE]
Jesus [I]Christ[/I]
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