[QUOTE=Stiveno;49025009]Idk what you paid for those rotas, but you could have imported nice used real wheels cheaper.[/QUOTE]
If you are bored, I'd love to know what some good old Hayashi Racings or Streets are going for. (15X7 4x100 specifically)
[QUOTE=Rastadogg;49028809]If you are bored, I'd love to know what some good old Hayashi Racings or Streets are going for. (15X7 4x100 specifically)[/QUOTE]
[url]http://kyushashoes.com/yahoo-search-aid/[/url]
I was going to go to a party as Harry Potter, but ended up covering a shift for a co-worker/classmate. Today I got called and told I don't even work there anymore since I've been contingent for two months :v:
Should be interesting to see if they decide to pay me or not.
[QUOTE=Slithers;49027061]Us folks who have CIS-E in 80s MBs don't seem t have many issues with them. The biggest problem with CIS is that troubleshooting can be a pain in the ass. Also, I'll take K-Jet over D-Jet any day, but I'll have to give these new options a try at some point though.[/QUOTE]
I tried to help my GF's brother with a 84 318i with the K-Jetronic, yeah I'd rather scrap something with that when it goes wrong rather than troubleshoot it ever again. It ended up getting scrapped after being passed around a couple people who knew a decent bit about them. The difference alone in the gasoline which is pumped into your car from back when these systems were designed totally wrecked havoc with them. They're usually over complicated for what they are and are designed poorly compared to more modern systems while being extremely expensive.
Just modernizing the whole system and getting it tuned by a really good tuner will most likely improve everything overall in reliability, fuel economy, power, parts availability and just about everything you think it could. You could probably fund the change alone in the extremely expensive/hard to find parts most of those systems have.
[QUOTE=PyroCF;49023698]I hate modern engines :( even mine looks shite. I'd kill for engines to look like the good old Alfa busso V6 again.
[t]https://forums.finalgear.com/attachments/post-your-car/my-2003-alfa-romeo-147-gta/12699d1395716836-1957663_647396198672732_1739345864_o.jpg[/t][t]http://www.italiancar.net/site/FACTfiles/alfa/alfaGTV/picts_big/ALFASPIDER2004_engine2.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Oh hey I have one of these. Can confirm they look very pretty in real life too, and sound amazing.
[video=youtube;mPuue_a_n_o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPuue_a_n_o[/video]
When I get a chance to clean it up and polish the pipes I'll post a few pictures. Even tarnished and dirt-splattered it still elicits 'ooh's and 'aah's from colleagues when you pop the bonnet in a car park.
I'm in Australia for work at the moment, they paid for us to have a hire car.
It's a Nissan Pulsar with a CVT, I've never driven a CVT before. It's the weirdest thing
[QUOTE=Doozle;49030001]I'm in Australia for work at the moment, they paid for us to have a hire car.
It's a Nissan Pulsar with a CVT, I've never driven a CVT before. It's the weirdest thing[/QUOTE]
As a gears man, the sound of the engine holding constant rpm stresses me out. My mom's last two cars have been CVT though so I'm getting used to it.
[QUOTE=Slithers;49025259]I didn't think going from CIS to Megasquirt would yield such a large power bump. Makes me wonder what my CIS injected Benz would running Megasquirt instead. How much did setting up the injection system cost you, and did you have to do any mods to the head to make them fit?
[/QUOTE]
Most of the power gain came from finally being able to give it enough fuel and being able to tune for non-stock parts. With the stock fuel injection, there is no control over ignition timing, and the fuel distributor has it's own issues. I could not get my fuel distributor to deliver enough fuel over 4k rpm, no matter what adjustments I made. Later after fixing another person's IT race car I came to find out why, modern fuel with ethanol in it can accumulate moisture which can get into the fuel distributor and cause corrosion. there were spots of rust in the tops of the chambers in the fuel distributor, and sediment collecting in critical spots in the distributor. My race car has never seen pump gas, only av-gas and REC90, which I assume is why it has no issues. You aren't supposed to rebuild the fuel distributors yourself (too many critical tolerances that get altered when you disassemble and replace parts) and a new fuel distributor is the only reliable way of fixing it aside from changing over to EFI.
My ECU was ~$450, I bought an EMS Pro, which is a tarted up Megasquirt 1 with a bunch of extra features I don't need and no technical support. DIYAutotune has MS1 units with the V3.57 main boards for $375, then you need a basic harness which is $80. I chose to use a Bussmann 15303 fuse/relay box for power handling and distribution.
Fuel injectors were fitted with injector cups from a Digifant VW Golf 2. Mercedes may have used your engine or a variant of it with electronic fuel injection at some point, that could be a possible source for injector cups.
You will also want a TPS (it's not mandatory, but it makes the car run better than using changes in MAP sensor signal for acceleration enrichment) You might be able to get an entire throttle body off of another Mercedes with one on it.
Crank signal can come from the hall effect sensor in the distributor, but crank mounted trigger wheels are much nicer (although it makes everything more expensive and complex)
I don't remember exactly how much money i have into my setup, probably ~$1000, although I did a few unnecessary things to avoid using stock parts (billet fuel rail, -6 AN fuel lines, etc.) but it can be done inexpensively. It takes more time and planning than money it seems. I also did everything my self and tuned it myself, so labor cost was not a factor.
[QUOTE=danjee;49030075]As a gears man, the sound of the engine holding constant rpm stresses me out. My mom's last two cars have been CVT though so I'm getting used to it.[/QUOTE]
I love the "O/D" or w.e button.
Instead of normal 5k ish turns into 6k red line MAX MOWER POWER
[QUOTE=Fireblade RX7;49030339]Most of the power gain came from finally being able to give it enough fuel and being able to tune for non-stock parts. With the stock fuel injection, there is no control over ignition timing, and the fuel distributor has it's own issues. I could not get my fuel distributor to deliver enough fuel over 4k rpm, no matter what adjustments I made. Later after fixing another person's IT race car I came to find out why, [B][U][I]modern fuel with ethanol[/I][/U][/B] in it can accumulate moisture which can get into the fuel distributor and cause corrosion. there were spots of rust in the tops of the chambers in the fuel distributor, and sediment collecting in critical spots in the distributor. My race car has never seen pump gas, only av-gas and REC90, which I assume is why it has no issues. You aren't supposed to rebuild the fuel distributors yourself (too many critical tolerances that get altered when you disassemble and replace parts) and a new fuel distributor is the only reliable way of fixing it aside from changing over to EFI.
My ECU was ~$450, I bought an EMS Pro, which is a tarted up Megasquirt 1 with a bunch of extra features I don't need and no technical support. DIYAutotune has MS1 units with the V3.57 main boards for $375, then you need a basic harness which is $80. I chose to use a Bussmann 15303 fuse/relay box for power handling and distribution.
Fuel injectors were fitted with injector cups from a Digifant VW Golf 2. Mercedes may have used your engine or a variant of it with electronic fuel injection at some point, that could be a possible source for injector cups.
You will also want a TPS (it's not mandatory, but it makes the car run better than using changes in MAP sensor signal for acceleration enrichment) You might be able to get an entire throttle body off of another Mercedes with one on it.
Crank signal can come from the hall effect sensor in the distributor, but crank mounted trigger wheels are much nicer (although it makes everything more expensive and complex)
I don't remember exactly how much money i have into my setup, probably ~$1000, although I did a few unnecessary things to avoid using stock parts (billet fuel rail, -6 AN fuel lines, etc.) but it can be done inexpensively. It takes more time and planning than money it seems. I also did everything my self and tuned it myself, so labor cost was not a factor.[/QUOTE]
This garbage causes so many issues for classic cars it's unbelievable. Fuck ethanol.
I've had so many problems from ethanol in gasoline... Fuel distributor in the Rabbit, carburetor internals in the RX7, ruptured float in my Suzuki DR250, and all of my lawn equipment. Anything that could be problematic gets REC90 or avgas now.
[QUOTE=Fireblade RX7;49030339]Most of the power gain came from finally being able to give it enough fuel and being able to tune for non-stock parts. With the stock fuel injection, there is no control over ignition timing, and the fuel distributor has it's own issues. I could not get my fuel distributor to deliver enough fuel over 4k rpm, no matter what adjustments I made. Later after fixing another person's IT race car I came to find out why, modern fuel with ethanol in it can accumulate moisture which can get into the fuel distributor and cause corrosion. there were spots of rust in the tops of the chambers in the fuel distributor, and sediment collecting in critical spots in the distributor. My race car has never seen pump gas, only av-gas and REC90, which I assume is why it has no issues. You aren't supposed to rebuild the fuel distributors yourself (too many critical tolerances that get altered when you disassemble and replace parts) and a new fuel distributor is the only reliable way of fixing it aside from changing over to EFI.
My ECU was ~$450, I bought an EMS Pro, which is a tarted up Megasquirt 1 with a bunch of extra features I don't need and no technical support. DIYAutotune has MS1 units with the V3.57 main boards for $375, then you need a basic harness which is $80. I chose to use a Bussmann 15303 fuse/relay box for power handling and distribution.
Fuel injectors were fitted with injector cups from a Digifant VW Golf 2. Mercedes may have used your engine or a variant of it with electronic fuel injection at some point, that could be a possible source for injector cups.
You will also want a TPS (it's not mandatory, but it makes the car run better than using changes in MAP sensor signal for acceleration enrichment) You might be able to get an entire throttle body off of another Mercedes with one on it.
Crank signal can come from the hall effect sensor in the distributor, but crank mounted trigger wheels are much nicer (although it makes everything more expensive and complex)
I don't remember exactly how much money i have into my setup, probably ~$1000, although I did a few unnecessary things to avoid using stock parts (billet fuel rail, -6 AN fuel lines, etc.) but it can be done inexpensively. It takes more time and planning than money it seems. I also did everything my self and tuned it myself, so labor cost was not a factor.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, the only way this would work on mine is to turn it into an 116-119 partial hybrid using the intake manifold from the M119 which has a MAP and TPS. The M119 is basically an M117 (M116 but bored and stroked) with DOHC and LH Jetronic. The only issue is that I don't know of anyone who has run a 119 intake manifold on a 116 or 117 engine, so that's getting into a dark place. So the only sure fire way is to get AMG heads which were built for Motronic, and bore the motor out and drop in forged pistons and enjoy some DOHC fury. So that means, I'm driving this with CIS until the fuel distributor clogs.
Also as far as the crank signal on an 80s Benz, they already have a crank position sensor, so couldn't you just use the signal from the one the car has (which uses a trigger wheel)?
Secondly, a car with CIS is the last car you ever dare let sit.
It's nice having 95E10 and 98E5. Don't have to worry about ethanol ruining shit. Though I'd love to have a turbo car that'd drink E85
[QUOTE=danjee;49030075]As a gears man, the sound of the engine holding constant rpm stresses me out. My mom's last two cars have been CVT though so I'm getting used to it.[/QUOTE]
It's weird, it doesn't even seem to hold the same engine speed, it seems to jumps up and down.
When you pull away the revs rise but your actual velocity doesn't seem to go up linearly it just feels like a slipping clutch.
We use RON though, 'murica uses AKI index?
The gas everyone sensible uses is the the 93 octane on AKI, 5% ethanol
[editline]2nd November 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Doozle;49030535]It's weird, it doesn't even seem to hold the same engine speed, it seems to jumps up and down.
When you pull away the revs rise but your actual velocity doesn't seem to go up linearly it just feels like a slipping clutch.[/QUOTE]
That's pretty much why I could never drive a cvt, because if rpm stays same but speed increases something is slipping. And I don't like when mechanic things slip
[QUOTE=Abrown516;48990712]So my car's been totaled in repairs for a while, but it's still been running. Today I stalled at an intersection and I couldn't start it back up again. I had it towed to a shop within 5 miles and long story short, the last place I kept bringing it to did nothing to fix my issues and essentially let my car die.
RIP 2003 BMW 330xi
Nov. 2012 - Oct. 2015
[editline]26th October 2015[/editline]
Also I need a car fast because I have to commute once or twice daily so I'm fucked[/QUOTE]
Luckily got a solid deal on a Camry, so I'm back on the road with a more dependable ride.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/rpMeWGH.jpg[/t]
Has a sticky dashboard that has been recalled by Toyota so no biggie, get that done soon. I've never cleaned headlights, but you can see the right ones need a touch up. Otherwise, no complaints.
How is it going to that from the E46 3 Series? I feel like the 'fun' factor would dip significantly?
[QUOTE=clutch2;49030922]How is it going to that from the E46 3 Series? I feel like the 'fun' factor would dip significantly?[/QUOTE]
You can feel the two missing cylinders for sure. Steering is a few notches wider too. But I drove the family 2009 Camry before I found the e46 so I'm used to it.
Sometimes I fantasize about selling my Miata and trying a different car, but I feel like after the honeymoon period ends I'd want the Miata again~~
[editline]1st November 2015[/editline]
If I sold the Miata and all the parts I have for it I would have a dandy car budget though
[QUOTE=danjee;49030986]Sometimes I fantasize about selling my Miata and trying a different car, but I feel like after the honeymoon period ends I'd want the Miata again~~[/QUOTE]
this is the most stereotypical miata owner thing I've read on this forum
[QUOTE=PyroCF;49023698]I hate modern engines :( even mine looks shite. I'd kill for engines to look like the good old Alfa busso V6 again.
[/QUOTE]
Most engines never looked that good, though. You'd get a lump of cast iron with a 1/2/4 barrel carb on top and ugly wires and hoses going everywhere. The only real difference now is there's more shit in the way (ABS, A/C compressors, etc) and the engine-obscuring carbs have been replaced with engine-obscuring lumps of plastic that make extracting the spark plugs slightly more annoying.
[t]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d0/1973_Ford_Mustang_convertible_351-2V_Cleveland.JPG[/t]
To get purty vroom vroom blocks, you had to buy an 'exotic' car, i.e. an Alfa Romeo.
Even the nicer engines still had shitloads of wires going everywhere. The AMC 401 came out of the factory painted a beautiful sky blue but once it gets tossed in the car, bam plastic and rubber everywhere.
So the new company i started working at have two Tesla Model S and i might get to drive one. :dance:
Accidentally shifted from 3rd to 1st today...done this 1-2 other times. But apparently it hasn't damaged much of anything. Clutch still is good, gears are still biting, engine still runs fine. I guess it can take stupid mistakes like that. I hate doing something like that though, since you still are at risk for bad shit to happen if the misshift was bad enough.
[QUOTE=danjee;49030986]Sometimes I fantasize about selling my Miata and trying a different car, but I feel like after the honeymoon period ends I'd want the Miata again~~
[editline]1st November 2015[/editline]
If I sold the Miata and all the parts I have for it I would have a dandy car budget though[/QUOTE]
Hell, I'm only 2 weeks in to my ownership, and already want a second gen. :v: Not that finding one would be a huge issue...the dealer I bought from collects Miatas and Porsches mainly, so they have over 20-30 Miatas in their inventory. Although a lot are crash victims in need of work. Even mine had some sort of front end collision, although it was a low speed one, so it affected nothing important thankfully.
[QUOTE=Bucketboy;49034276]So the new company i started working at have two Tesla Model S and i might get to drive one. :dance:[/QUOTE]
Let us know either how much an inconvenience recharging is, or how much it isn't one. Or how the short range may or may not be an annoyance.
Volkswagen emissions cheating has been expanded to their luxury brands.
[QUOTE=NO ONE;49034637]
Let us know either how much an inconvenience recharging is, or how much it isn't one. Or how the short range may or may not be an annoyance.[/QUOTE]
Since when did the Model S have a short range?
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49034674]Since when did the Model S have a short range?[/QUOTE]
I mean "208 to 270 mi" is still sufficient, but that from what I read it isn't quite what real world drivers are getting. I guess it depends on which model trim you get. Perhaps I over spoke, but I recall rather small ranges for Teslas.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;49034661]Volkswagen emissions cheating has been expanded to their luxury brands.[/QUOTE]
No surprise. I read too that almost every single major manufacturer's diesels actually emit too much. Diesels seem to be at a crisis point right now, as 1. we are realizing our emissions tests are unrealistic 2. Even diesels with the latest tested technology are over-polluters to some degree.
[QUOTE=NO ONE;49034886]I mean "208 to 270 mi" is still sufficient, but that from what I read it isn't quite what real world drivers are getting. I guess it depends on which model trim you get. Perhaps I over spoke, but I recall rather small ranges for Teslas.
[/QUOTE]
Are you thinking of the Tesla Roadster? It's old tech and had pretty mediocre range.
The theoretical average range (270) for the more powerful Model S is a bit lower than a normal car (about 300 miles), though I expect that the really low range numbers you're seeing are from up north, where the batteries don't work as well and there is additional drain from the car's heaters.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49034674]Since when did the Model S have a short range?[/QUOTE]
As long as I've known.
It's up to 280 miles on a full battery in optimal conditions,but in real world conditions, with a healthy battery, owners often report only 150-200 miles per charge.
The Tesla series is neat, but still has a ways to go.
It's better than old EV's, but miles behind ICE's in terms of daily driveability.
Large, heavy, short range, few charge stations in remote areas, etc.
more like ahead of ICE's in daily driving, behind them in long distance journeys
[editline]2nd November 2015[/editline]
and only behind ICE on long journeys due to lack of stations whereas there are pumps every mile
I have never experienced driving a car quite like I did today. Either that car did something to me, or I developed a heart murmur afterwards, because there's been a tingling in my chest since I left.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/LsuWih6h.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/m5CCv65h.jpg[/img]
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