[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;49197524]Fuck man that sounds like a rad truck!
As for clutch selection, google is your best help, the only thing I know about clutches is the in cummins trucks its dual disc or bust.[/QUOTE]
It's definitely a fun truck the motor/truck was originally built to be a 2wd drag truck but sometime during it's life got converted to 4wd. As far as the clutch goes I'm looking at Mcleod products cause i'm used to them in 302/351/5.0 fords my buddy has a procharged '11 GT/CS with an Mcleod RXT clutch and my brother ran a Mcleod RST in his turbo SN95
[QUOTE=Jackpody;49185577]24 hours before the snow storm, winter tires were fitted. Timing was immaculate.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/hrTpoza.jpg[/t]
Could still only drive at 10 km/h and I slid around every corner, but what are you going to do? :v:[/QUOTE]
I totally just had a puncture on one of these brand new winter tires.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/KjaH01r.jpg[/t]
Thanks for six days of service, left front tire. Godspeed.
Can't you get it plugged? I got a screw in my two week old summer tyre, I just took it back to the shop and they plugged it up for 200 NOK.
I plug my own tires, with a 5$ plug kit and some rubber cement.
Also there was an unlabeled jug of blue liquid sitting next to the wiper fluid, and I accidentally filled my wiper fluid tank with Windex. It works fuckin great, but it the smell gets in the car pretty strong, and it freezes up easier than winter wiper fluid. I wonder if mixing in some antifreeze would poison everyone in the car, or not.
[QUOTE=Gulen;49197910]Can't you get it plugged? I got a screw in my two week old summer tyre, I just took it back to the shop and they plugged it up for 200 NOK.[/QUOTE]
I'll take it to the shop most definitely. I just went out and sprayed some soapy water on the valve, started bubbling like all hell. I think a valve may not have been fitted properly. Hopefully, the tires are alright - but yeah, I'll get them plugged if there's a puncture.
[QUOTE=greeley;49196852]So chaps.
I have a question for you. I have a Kenwood Stereo (one that i bought from a shop with a USB slow, AUX, CD Player etcc....) And its been all good and fine.
Although SOMETIMES, mostly when i just start the car up, the stereo turns on and everything, but theres no sound coming out from the speakers. I change from USB to Radio, still nothing, Change to AUX to my phone, nothing, change to CD, still nothing. So i keep my USB on play, it shows that time is going on the track but no sound....
Then randomly during my course from driving A to B it will randomly start playing the music mid-song. Now i thought when this first happened, there was a dodgy cable and i went over a bump or something and knocked it in place again, but this has happened several times and more frequently now. I go over no bumps and it'll just randomly start playing again whenever it decides it wants too.
I tried giving it a hit and a smack a few times to see if it is a cable when its running but no sound is going and it doesn't do anything. It just turns the sound on whenever it wants. From what i can tell, there is no problems with the actual stereo.
Any clues? This happened to anybody else before?[/QUOTE]
It's happened to me a few times. One of your speakers is grounding out, or two of the speaker leads are touching somewhere. If it was installed by a shop it is their f-up.
[QUOTE=Jackpody;49198591]I'll take it to the shop most definitely. I just went out and sprayed some soapy water on the valve, started bubbling like all hell. I think a valve may not have been fitted properly. Hopefully, the tires are alright - but yeah, I'll get them plugged if there's a puncture.[/QUOTE]
You most likely just have a valve that's too small. If it wasn't fitted properly it wouldn't hold air for a second.
Any thoughts on this '73 240z? I can't decide if I like the body kit and wing or not.
[url]http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5305534493.html[/url]
[QUOTE=butre;49196498]valuepower makes everstart look like optima[/QUOTE]
What kind of issues have you heard?
The reviews online seem pretty good, not many complaints, they're supposedly made by Johnson Controls, which has owned Optima since 2000
[QUOTE=FordLord;49198850]What kind of issues have you heard?
The reviews online seem pretty good, not many complaints, they're supposedly made by Johnson Controls, which has owned Optima since 2000[/QUOTE]
You get what you pay for with batteries. Buy a cheap battery and expect it to die just out of warranty
[editline]27th November 2015[/editline]
Hope everyone is enjoying their holiday. DP asked me to send him a photo of the snow that fell... Damn Texans and their snow fetishes
$160 and 20 minutes of alignment later the new hood is on. Yay!.
[quote]You get what you pay for with batteries. Buy a cheap battery and expect it to die just out of warranty[/quote]
I paid $85 for a Wal-Mart deep cycle battery back in 2013 and it's yet to give me a single sign of trouble.
I dont know why but I want a 4 door unimog so bad
[thumb]http://classicunimogs.com/images/404_dokatan_4.jpg[/thumb]
[QUOTE=Code3Response;49198890]You get what you pay for with batteries. Buy a cheap battery and expect it to die just out of warranty
[editline]27th November 2015[/editline]
Hope everyone is enjoying their holiday. DP asked me to send him a photo of the snow that fell... Damn Texans and their snow fetishes[/QUOTE]
Usually that's what I hear about batteries, though the reviews for these seem generally good.
[QUOTE=Doritos_Man;49194968]Nah, open 4.3 from a '99.[/QUOTE]
Transmission is finally out. I have to continuously buy crap to fix other crap. It's annoying.
Broke a stud on the Cat. Broke another bolt in the diff. The used diff I bought, I forgot to buy replacement seals for so I'm trying to decide if I need to get those. My clutch may have been slipping because of the rear main seal leaking. We shall find out tomorrow.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;49198890]You get what you pay for with batteries. Buy a cheap battery and expect it to die just out of warranty
[editline]27th November 2015[/editline]
Hope everyone is enjoying their holiday. DP asked me to send him a photo of the snow that fell... Damn Texans and their snow fetishes[/QUOTE]
I secretly wanted to verify your address. :tinfoil:
Also white Chevy girl is a bust. Talked to her abit. She is taken. I only wanted riding lessons....
[editline]28th November 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=pentium;49199506]$160 and 20 minutes of alignment later the new hood is on. Yay!.
I paid $85 for a Wal-Mart deep cycle battery back in 2013 and it's yet to give me a single sign of trouble.[/QUOTE]
May I ask why you bought a deep cycle for a car?
I can understand for smaller engines but starting a engine is alot of stress on a deep cycle. You sure you didn't buy a marine battery?
[QUOTE=Code3Response;49198890]You get what you pay for with batteries. Buy a cheap battery and expect it to die just out of warranty
[editline]27th November 2015[/editline]
Hope everyone is enjoying their holiday. DP asked me to send him a photo of the snow that fell... Damn Texans and their snow fetishes[/QUOTE]
I bought a battery for $115 (cheap considering where I am), it came with a 4/5 year warranty, so even if it did die right after the warranty period, I'd be very happy with it.
Batteries seem really brand dependent.
some brands are hit and miss
some are always good
some are always bad
I got my cheap-ass OBD bluetooth scanner yesterday and tried it today. Works like a charm so far.
I can sit in my room and see what temp the engine's at outside.
Neat
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49203204]I got my cheap-ass OBD bluetooth scanner yesterday and tried it today. Works like a charm so far.
I can sit in my room and see what temp the engine's at outside.
Neat[/QUOTE]
how much can you do with those?
I kinda want one if it can clear codes and stuff, but I don't know if you can get one that does.
Anyone good with tuning amps? My sub sounds like shit with a lot of songs - almost like too much power is going to it or something. Should I turn the bass down? I have it all the way up on the amp. Never really done this before so I have no idea how the amp should be set.
The Intel NUC in my trunk doesn't like -10°C very much. I should have seen that coming.
And my Spal power door lock kit is acting dumb. It worked flawlessly last winter, though now it started locking itself as soon as you unlock it. So I pulled the fuse so I could actually get into my own car. Back to manual locks. The winter tires are completely useless on even light ice. And it's fucking cold outside so fixing any of this will be miserable.
[QUOTE=Psygo;49203440]how much can you do with those?
I kinda want one if it can clear codes and stuff, but I don't know if you can get one that does.[/QUOTE]
they can clear codes, idk if they have an iphone app but I can do everything from my android phone and a cheap scanner
side note if you buy the cheap ones you might have to buy a few before they work decent lol. my first one barely worked, this second one works fine.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;49203944]they can clear codes, idk if they have an iphone app but I can do everything from my android phone and a cheap scanner
side note if you buy the cheap ones you might have to buy a few before they work decent lol. my first one barely worked, this second one works fine.[/QUOTE]
The first ELM-xxx adapter I bought worked, I can scan and clear codes, have it let me know when the coolant has reached 120F, as well as display info from the other dozen sensors in the car. Torque is very handy if you have a shitty car.
It even yells at me if I give it too much gas before its warm.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;49200549]
May I ask why you bought a deep cycle for a car?
I can understand for smaller engines but starting a engine is alot of stress on a deep cycle. You sure you didn't buy a marine battery?[/QUOTE]
There's a 12v inverter built into the car, plus a large number of accessories. It just helps me recover should I drag the battery too far down. It's already saved me twice. Once when the transmission shop accidentally left my inverter on all weekend and killed the battery. The other time when the alternator disconnected on my way to Idaho. By the time I came back to the car half an hour later it had recovered enough that the computer would come up and I could push start it.
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;49203459]Anyone good with tuning amps? My sub sounds like shit with a lot of songs - almost like too much power is going to it or something. Should I turn the bass down? I have it all the way up on the amp. Never really done this before so I have no idea how the amp should be set.[/QUOTE]
Holy shit turn that thing down. I never go past about 1/2 on almost all amp install. 2/3 is like one out of fifty I do. That thing is turned up way too high and sending a horribly clipped signal to the subs. If you need moar bass gonna need more power, not just turning up the amp.
The problem I run into with my own amp is some songs have far more bass then others, and on my flash drive none of my music files have volume leveling on them. Mostly because WMP sucks at it and I can't be bothered to find another program that does it. I don't bother with the radio as my antenna cant pull but one station, 98 Rock.
agentfazexx, If your amp came with a remote bass controller I'd suggest using it and putting somewhere you can readily reach it. Otherwise Clutches way is gonna be the best and likely only bet for better sound and no/reduced sound clipping.
You should also test your amp on the music your going to be listening to the most and adjust your cut off, input level, Hz (80 - 180/200 if supported) and see if the amp is set to high pass, low pass or full range.
Some amps when setting to high pass or low pass have a knob/tuner that lets you set how high or low the pass is, you may be able to play with that on low pass to get cleaner bass through more of the frequency range then low pass. For instance, (in this example, the pass adjustment is ccw for more and cw for less) say your listening to STP and want to hear more bass from the drums, you'd turn the pass slightly clockwise to gain more high frequency in the bass range.
There's a bit more to cover, but that would likely be best explained by our resident audio systems expert, Mr Clutch2.
I just witnessed a hit-and-run
[t]http://i.imgur.com/CE3UJvF.jpg[/t]
Green Skoda with an old man drunk out of his mind, he hit it at relatively low speeds. I ran after the car but he sped up as he noticed I was getting close to his door.
It's my new neighbour's Volvo. I've tried getting to his door but it's full of metal gates and shit and I can't open any of them. I've already called the police, obviously. Other than that, not quite sure what to do.
He could have hit that volvo doing 90 and probably same damage result
[QUOTE=Psygo;49203440]how much can you do with those?
I kinda want one if it can clear codes and stuff, but I don't know if you can get one that does.[/QUOTE]
It's supposed to be able to clear codes but I don't have any fault codes to test it on.
I can see loads of stuff in real-time though. Like, as I said, the temperature, current speed and rpm, current % of engine power being used, how many times it has rapidly accelerated/braked, how much time it has spent at different speeds, ect ect ect
I got this one btw: [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/121742052406?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/url]
It comes with a tiny cd which got a windows program, iphone and android app.
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