• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
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[QUOTE=Code3Response;49195434]Liking the double tire plus blocks of wood jackstand for the front end[/QUOTE] ahh noo there is two clearly jackstands there. The wheels and wood is to catch the car if it comes off the stands
[QUOTE=Scientwist;49204781] There's a bit more to cover, but that would likely be best explained by our resident audio systems expert, Mr Clutch2.[/QUOTE] Aye aye, here's an elaboration of amplifier controls; The 'Gain' knob. Also known as 'sensitivity' or sometimes 'level' on the amp- This matches the amp's output to the signal level input. Not every headunit has the same 'power' of signal running to the headunit. Some will be higher voltage, some will be lower. To ensure the amp is truly universal, this knob is present so that you can adjust the amp's output level so that the amp maxes out at the same time the headunit is maxing out. You'll find gain will be set lower if the amp is connected to a high quality headunit (with RCA preouts rated at 4v, for example) and if it's a cheaper headunit, the gain will need to be higher. Ideally you want it set so that you have OK bass at mid levels that doesn't start to sound distorted until near full volume on the headunit. This is not a volume knob!!!!! If the gain is set too high you'll have loud bass at lower to mid level volumes, but then as you turn it up louder the bass won't get any louder because the amp has run out of power. However.. we're asking it to get louder, so it tries. That results in a clipped audio output, which we hear as distortion, or 'muddy' bass. There's 2 ways to set gain; 1. The 'easy' no tools way. Doing this you get your favorite bass song (I tune with Beamer Benz or Bently - Lloyd Bank) and start at the headunit. Set your EQ one of 2 ways; -if you have a 'sub' control on the headunit, turn it all the way up and set bass to 0 and mid/treb how you like them to sound. Turn bass boost and loudness off (ALWAYS turn bassboost/ loudness off, they're shite) -if you don't have a 'sub' control on the headunit, turn bass up about 1/2 way, then set mid/treb how you like it. Now play your bass song with volume up about 3/4 of the way. Turn gain up until you hear the subs go from clean bass to muddy bass, that is where the amp is distorting. Back it off a wee bit until they don't sound bad, then make small tweak from there based on listening style. For example, if you don't listen to rap, mostly rock.. turn it up a tad so the bass is more pronounced in rock songs. But then you must be careful listening to rap if you ever do so. If you have a sub control try turning it halfway down now. It should be 'present' but not banging. Then turn it all the way down, it should be almost no bass at this point. That ensures a proper ability to get dynamic bass from your system, so you can fine tune at the headunit for each song. 2. The otherway to tune is with an Oscilloscope. The process is the same, but you need an Oscope. Set everything up the same, then set the Oscope to measure AC Voltage. Connect the Oscope leads to the wires going into the sub box (so the sub it still playing, of course). Then at 3/4 volume with a bassy rap song going, turn up the gain until you see the signal go from a smooth sine wave to 'flat tops'. The flat bits are distortion; [img]https://www.mtx.com/i/mtxcom/clipped-signal.jpg[/img] Once they start to get flat, back it off until it's nice and smooth again. Then remember, anything above the bass volume you're tuning at at that point is going to distort! The "HPF, LPF, and Full" setting switch- Some amps have this, some don't. It's a filter that cuts out either bass, high notes, or allows the entire audio spectrum to play. This is what's known as an active crossover. LPF is low pass filter, it's what you'd use for subs. It cuts out high notes. The number you point it to is the Hertz that it starts rolling off the audio it plays. So if you set it to 80Hz, everything above 80Hz will be cut off, and eventually inaudible. This is set by ear for most folks. I set all mine to about 70-80Hz. If it's set too high the sub will 'howl' really bad, especially in metal music, etc. If it howls and doesn't sound clean, turn that LPF down. HPF is high pass filter, which is the opposite of LPF. It cuts out bass. You use this on your speakers to cut bass so they don't have to play difficult low notes. Very handy for getting the most volume and clarity out of your speakers. I usually set to 50-90Hz depending on applications. Full just means no filtering will be done. "Bass Boost" setting- Also known as the "I want my subs to sound like shit and burn up" knob. TURN IT ALL THE WAY DOWN OR I WILL FIND YOU. "Phase" knob, or switch- This can be in the form of a 0*-180* switch, or a knob that lets you choose anywhere in between. It simply allows you to control when the sub is moving in/out. If it's set to 0*, the sub will move out when it's being told to move out by the headunit. If it's set to 180* it will pull in when the headunit's telling it to move out. Flip it on/off and see which, if any, sounds better. It's not overly important. So there ya go. AgentFaze, since you got your system installed at BestBuy, set the knobs all back to where they were before you fucked with them. That voids your warranty. Then take it back in and ask them to re-tune it. As equipment breaks in how it sounds changes, and any legit 12v tech will understand the need for a re-tune after a few weeks of play time to get the most out of what's been installed. Ensure the tech knows what kind of music you listen to so he can tune with that in mind, and then have a quick listen when you pick it up and ask him any questions you may have so you guys can address concerns if it truly doesn't have enough bass for you, etc. If it DOES need more bass, then you guys can check out some good equipment that will deliver the bass levels you're looking for. I should elaborate here.. if you DIDNT touch the knobs, and the gain was already turned all the way up.. don't take it back to that BestBuy for tuning, the guy may not have his tuning down. Anything past 3/4 is madness. Find another BestBuy to tune it at that point, lol. On a final note.. I *am* guilty of installing an amp a few weeks ago with the gain turned almost to full. It was a |3055 Audio 2 ch amp that did about 75 watts per channel. Hooked to a pair of 300w rms 4 ohm subs. It was laughable how shitty it sounded. That amp can clip all day and those subs won't bat an eye. I wanted to strangle the 16 year old for buying shit. I wanted to strangle the dad for allowing him to buy that shit. I wanted to strangle BOSS audio for making that shit. I wanted to strangle myself for having to install that shit. I wanted to strangle a baby because they WOULDNT LISTEN TO ME and buy a better amp that INCLUDED THE INSTALL IF YOU BOUGHT AN AMP KIT!!!!! WHY?!?!?! Here's the breakdown; Install; $100 8ga wiring kit;$100 (they had a Boss Audio wiring kit AKA Fire hazard that I refused to piss on let alone install in their car) So $200. And the amp was shit. If they had listened to me; Install; $0 included 8ga wiring kit; $100 600w Kicker amp; $200 So $300. $100 more. AND they get a better amp that will actually work and play the subs loud. AND They get a 2 yr warranty on the amp since it's a Kicker amp w/ Kicker wiring kit. For $100. Return the fucking BOSS audio amp and get your $50 back and it's only $50 more!!!! :suicide:
BB just ran the wiring and didn't touch the amp. I'll back it down and increase until it sounds good.
SOOO. I finished the rear wheel bearings on the Daytona and I was going to put new rotors and brakes on, so I start pushing the piston and it starts sliding back into the caliper. Then CRACK, snapped the piston in half. :suicide: I fix two things, another thing breaks. Haha. I'm so glad I bought this thing to learn from.
Good on you for not giving in so easy and sticking with it bro. For real.
I'm stubborn. It'll be the death of me. My friend has given up on this car multiple times. I've never came across anything that couldn't be accomplished with patience.
That car must have a little DSM in it. :v:
Put a new brake pedal pad on the Detroit. Old one wore threw to the metal. Tried to change a clearance marker bulb, the lens shattered when I tried to pull it off. Ordered a set of 5 for $16. Couldn't find any locally, or any not in California that weren't outragiously priced.
[QUOTE=FordLord;49208222]Put a new brake pedal pad on the Detroit. Old one wore threw to the metal. Tried to change a clearance marker bulb, the lens shattered when I tried to pull it off. Ordered a set of 5 for $16. Couldn't find any locally, or any not in California that weren't outragiously priced.[/QUOTE] Rock auto?
[QUOTE=clutch2;49206501]-so much information-[/QUOTE] Lots of great information, thanks. About the underpowered amp... I've got a Kac 848 which is rated at 150RMS/300Peak @4ohm, which I've hooked up to some Infinity woofer which I think was rathed at 450RMS@4ohm. Am I gonna burn my car up/blow the sub, or should I be ok?
[QUOTE=Gulen;49208856]Lots of great information, thanks. About the underpowered amp... I've got a Kac 848 which is rated at 150RMS/300Peak @4ohm, which I've hooked up to some Infinity woofer which I think was rathed at 450RMS@4ohm. Am I gonna burn my car up/blow the sub, or should I be ok?[/QUOTE] idk if im missing something but how can it be 150RMS with a peak of 300? in any wave form that doesnt add up
Yeah, it sounded strange to me too, but the spec sheet definitely says "Max power output": 300 x 2, "Rated power output": 150 x 2. [editline]29th November 2015[/editline] In 3 channel mode, it's 100 x 2 + 300 x 1 max and 50 x 2 + 150 x 1 rated.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49206004]It's supposed to be able to clear codes but I don't have any fault codes to test it on. I can see loads of stuff in real-time though. Like, as I said, the temperature, current speed and rpm, current % of engine power being used, how many times it has rapidly accelerated/braked, how much time it has spent at different speeds, ect ect ect I got this one btw: [URL]http://www.ebay.com/itm/121742052406?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/URL] It comes with a tiny cd which got a windows program, iphone and android app.[/QUOTE] is the OBD also how you reset service intervals and such?
[QUOTE=Psygo;49209151]is the OBD also how you reset service intervals and such?[/QUOTE] That differs from car to car. Some cars have to get the service interval reset through OBD, but like in my Mercedes, I can reset it just by holding the trip reset button while I've got the service info open on the small computer thing in my instrument cluster. In Volvos there's basically the same thing, but with more of a combination of different things you gotta do in the right order to reset it.
but if it's through the OBD it's possible with the one you linked right?
I doubt it. It's really not that advanced as far as I've seen yet. At least I haven't found anything related to service on it yet.
[QUOTE=clutch2;49204531]Holy shit turn that thing down. I never go past about 1/2 on almost all amp install. 2/3 is like one out of fifty I do. That thing is turned up way too high and sending a horribly clipped signal to the subs. If you need moar bass gonna need more power, not just turning up the amp.[/QUOTE] Turned down bass to 50%. What should I set the other settings to?
Well, what settings do you have? Did you get it "tuned" down to 50% or did you just put it there?
I lowered the bass output to 50%. Gain is around 50% as well. Frequency is a bit lower. Sounded okay but I don't want to blast it in my driveway. Guess I'll find out tomorrow on my way to work.
[QUOTE=JesseR92;49208506]Rock auto?[/QUOTE] They don't sell it. In fact, them and Sylvania don't even have the clearance markers on their list for bulbs. They act like these trucks never even had them. They take a standard 168/194 bulb, so it's not like it's something they don't sell.
Just bought another truck!! Yeeeeee [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfoejjqjt.jpeg[/thumb] 2006 Mega Cab, 6 speed manual. 276k km, trans shifts like brand new, 40k on a straight from cummins entirely new engine, 0km on the injectors and dual disc clutch, clean interior, comes with studded winters and nice summers. Got it for about 5-8k under market value.
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;49209904]I lowered the bass output to 50%. Gain is around 50% as well. Frequency is a bit lower. Sounded okay but I don't want to blast it in my driveway. Guess I'll find out tomorrow on my way to work.[/QUOTE] Yeah, that's not what you wanna do, you wanna get it roughly tuned properly. Here's what I did: Get some test tones, pure tones in the 20-100Hz range. Turn your amplifier down to the minimum gain, turn off all the bass boost, if your headunit has a low-pass filter on your sub output, turn it off. Then put on one of the tones, and turn the volume up until your hear distortion, then turn it down a notch or two until it goes away. Make a note of the tone and volume. Do this for all your tones, then pick the one with the lowest volume (this'll be the frequency that will clip the earliest), and set the volume to the max at that frequency, then you turn the gain up until it starts distorting, and back it off a bit.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;49210232]Just bought another truck!! Yeeeeee [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfoejjqjt.jpeg[/thumb] 2006 Mega Cab, 6 speed manual. 276k km, trans shifts like brand new, 40k on a straight from cummins entirely new engine, 0km on the injectors and dual disc clutch, clean interior, comes with studded winters and nice summers. Got it for about 5-8k under market value.[/QUOTE] How many damn Dodge Rams do you own now?
Well I sold my red one, so two now. But if you wanna go off of the family my dad has 3 so that makes for 5 total, my grandpa has 3 too. I was thinking of picking up another to fix it up, but in total I have 6 vehicles I think so I'll lay off that lol
I was in a parking garage and (wanting to be a hoodlum) I blipped the throttle with the windows down. To my surprise, the revs stayed up! Dashcam video of the incident: [video=youtube_share;Drcy8BMdkok]http://youtu.be/Drcy8BMdkok[/video] I let the clutch out to force the rpm's down because I thought they never would go down. This happened once before, during a semi-cold start (car was driven, sat for 2 hours in 38°, then started again showing cold on the engine temp gauge). During a normal cold start, RPM's go up to about 1400 for awhile and gradually go down. This time, however, after a bit of throttle to start moving, RPM's went up to about 3000 :wideeye: Any ideas as to why it does this? Clogged idle control valve? I'm pretty sure the throttle cable isn't sticking, but maybe it's sticking at like the last millimeter where I can't tell. Butterfly valve need cleaning?
[QUOTE=Gulen;49208856]Lots of great information, thanks. About the underpowered amp... I've got a Kac 848 which is rated at 150RMS/300Peak @4ohm, which I've hooked up to some Infinity woofer which I think was rathed at 450RMS@4ohm. Am I gonna burn my car up/blow the sub, or should I be ok?[/QUOTE] That would be fine, even if the amp's turned up a little high I'd be very surprised if it could damage a 450wrms woofer only giving it 300wrms. The only thing you'll find is that you're not using the woofer to its fullest. That being said, since it's a 4ch amp, you'll be running 2 channel bridged to get that full 300wrms. Make sure the woofer is hooked up to it so it is indeed bridged. Like so, but with only 1 woofer instead of 2; [img]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/millertime4060/AnswerID_977.gif[/img] All that talk of 'max' power ratings is garbage, always remember that. It's an arbitrary number that manufacturers put on their products to sell them better.. and to confuse the average consumer. Always only pay attention to the "RMS" rating. That's what it's truly capable of putting out (amp) or handling (speaker).
@chinook249 MAF sensor? Idle control valve would be my second bet because if its bad it can stay open and let air by
MAF or IAC are good bets Not entirely sure what you drive but the TPS sensor might be going wonky if you have one we had a monte carlo with that problem
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;49213229]@chinook249 MAF sensor? Idle control valve would be my second bet because if its bad it can stay open and let air by[/QUOTE] Thanks, I'll have a look at it. It's a 2002 Forester.
Man I backed up into my dads minivan today because I'm a stupid fuck. :cry:
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