[QUOTE=clutch2;49212208]That would be fine, even if the amp's turned up a little high I'd be very surprised if it could damage a 450wrms woofer only giving it 300wrms. The only thing you'll find is that you're not using the woofer to its fullest.
That being said, since it's a 4ch amp, you'll be running 2 channel bridged to get that full 300wrms. Make sure the woofer is hooked up to it so it is indeed bridged.
Like so, but with only 1 woofer instead of 2;
[img]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/millertime4060/AnswerID_977.gif[/img]
All that talk of 'max' power ratings is garbage, always remember that. It's an arbitrary number that manufacturers put on their products to sell them better.. and to confuse the average consumer. Always only pay attention to the "RMS" rating. That's what it's truly capable of putting out (amp) or handling (speaker).[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I wasn't really worried about blowing the sub, more about the amplifier catching fire, because I'm running it closer to its max output more often. I've got it wired to both channels on amplifier A, and I got it set to L + R input (mixes the two and pumps it out on the speaker)
might save for an mx5
and put offset stripes on it
Doing up a car seems so good after doing it but when you are doing it... It is just too time wasting.
[QUOTE=M21z;49214406]Doing up a car seems so good after doing it but when you are doing it... It is just too time wasting.[/QUOTE]
Depends on what car and how interested you are.
I don't know what you're talking about. I'm having fun building my cars. Learning stuff everyday. Yeah, it may cost money, but I'm learning a shit ton.
Also, here's a list of things I've done to the red Daytona I have.
- Front and back rotors
- Front and back calipers
- [URL="https://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1478948&p=48475173&viewfull=1#post48475173"]HD front and rear brakes[/URL]
- New outer ti-rods
- New Lower ball joints
- [URL="https://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1478948&p=48513952&viewfull=1#post48513952"]New half-shafts[/URL]
- New half-shaft seals
- New fuel pump & sending unit
- New fluids
- New(er) ECU
- New air, trans, oil, and fuel filter
- [URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBT8v11cOIw"]PT Cruiser Lifter upgrade[/URL]
- Repaired the headlight computer
- [URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRADpXluVrA"]New headlight motors[/URL]
- New brake lines
- New track bar
- Really really thorough radiator flush (I flushed it at least 22 times)
- New rear inner and outer wheel bearings and seals
It's all worth it as long as the car runs as smooth as it can. At this point the only thing I can really replace is the drive train and shocks.
[QUOTE=M21z;49214406]Doing up a car seems so good after doing it but when you are doing it... It is just too time wasting.[/QUOTE]
If you feel like you're wasting time doing up your car, then you should get another car
[QUOTE=based;49214366]might save for an mx5
and put offset stripes on it[/QUOTE]
That's what I'm doing. I'm stocking out my Mazda 3 and selling the aftermarket parts to put towards a down payment.
Finally got my new (used) motor in the NB this weekend! Took me 26 accumulated hours over 3 days to do the job, but I'm so fucking happy that not only did it work, but I ran into nearly 0 snags. Patience, painters tape/sharpies, and ziplock bags were my best friends along with a digital camera for reference.
The new motor came shipped on a pallet from Florida, without a PS, AC, alternator, or exhaust manifold. I ordered entirely new gaskets for it - rear main seal, crank seal, transmission seals, clutch, etc. New water pump, t-stat, and timing belt were also ordered and installed.
Friday I began the tear down in preparation for the pull, and began by draining all fluids. This also meant removing (somehow I remember in order):
- Hood
- PS, which I just tucked out of the way to avoid having to bleed it
- Radiator
- Alternator
- AC Compressor (also tucked out of the way)
- Driveshaft
I then individually labeled and disconnected all necessary vacuum lines and electrical connectors; again, tape and pictures really saved my ass here, especially with the transmission PPF mounting bolts and a few electrical connections.
I called it a day after 7 hours and headed home for a cold beer and a good night's sleep - I knew Saturday would be a doozy.
Here's how she looked before I headed home:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/BWWhWPz.jpg[/t]
Saturday morning I got up early and got to work.
After 2 hours of misc re-checks, I realized that the hoist could not get close enough to the motor without removing the bumper, so that added a bit of extra time too. After buying chain/hooking up the hoist, and disconnecting the motor mounts, I had the bitch ready to pull. So I did. Having never done this before I was incredibly nervous and worked slowly, but out she came in a little under 5 minutes.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ljAcovX.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/exBi4ng.jpg[/t]
I was proud to have my very first I-just-removed-an-engine-and-can-stand-in-the-empty-bay-pic taken, so all of you can see my 2 years of beer-induced boobies:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/EWq38Qy.jpg[/t]
After the motor was out I went about the process of removing the transmission and mating it to the new motor with all its fancy new seals and whatnot. It was here I realized a fatal flaw - I had not ordered a flywheel nor did I realize the old one needed resurfacing. Luckily, a shop less than a block away was able to do the job for $38 in under 45 minutes. I wish I'd taken a picture because the work they did was beautiful. I was very impressed and tipped the machinist well.
Finally I worked the motor back into the car - this took the longest as lining up the motor mounts proved to be an incredible bitch even with a buddy helping me keep things aligned, but an hour of persistence prevailed and she was finally in! I spent the next few hours reconnecting all the sensors and vacuum lines, filling up fluids, before disconnecting the fuel pump and cranking the motor to build up oil pressure.
Finally, I fired her up for the first time. And oh my, she sounded wonderful. Purred like a kitten, not even a hint of lifter tick or anything.
Long story short, the Miata is up and running again. 4 months of saving money and riding my KLR650 for what felt like forever finally paid off. There's an autocross in 2 weeks and you can bet my ass I'll be there. For anyone else who feels this task may be too daunting, don't. Just take your time, work slowly, and keep track of everything you remove/disconnect. God damn, does it feel good to have my car running again.
I absolutely fucking fucking fucking FUCK fuck fuckity FUCKING HATE the dbw in my car. The half second delay in my throttle response makes it absolutely impossible to carefully slowly accelerate from a stop. There's 4 inches of snow on the streets and it took me 15 minutes to drive 5 blocks, and just about got stuck twice. It took 5 fucking minutes to get my cold blubbery ass out of my parking spot. I might as well be driving a funny car with drag slicks, that would probably get better traction than this fucking useless cheapo-engineered garbage pile.
Now I'm wondering if it's feasible to transplant the cable throttle from an older crown Vic in.
i'll drop this here
[url]https://www.reddit.com/r/cars/comments/3uvi2h/tomorrow_dec_1st_rcr_shows_their_faces/[/url]
mr epic zinger
[QUOTE=Chinook249;49211673]I was in a parking garage and (wanting to be a hoodlum) I blipped the throttle with the windows down. To my surprise, the revs stayed up!
Dashcam video of the incident:
[video=youtube_share;Drcy8BMdkok]http://youtu.be/Drcy8BMdkok[/video]
I let the clutch out to force the rpm's down because I thought they never would go down.
This happened once before, during a semi-cold start (car was driven, sat for 2 hours in 38°, then started again showing cold on the engine temp gauge). During a normal cold start, RPM's go up to about 1400 for awhile and gradually go down. This time, however, after a bit of throttle to start moving, RPM's went up to about 3000 :wideeye:
Any ideas as to why it does this? Clogged idle control valve? I'm pretty sure the throttle cable isn't sticking, but maybe it's sticking at like the last millimeter where I can't tell. Butterfly valve need cleaning?[/QUOTE]
Probably a few things needing to be done.
At that age;
IACV needs to be cleaned
TPS is likely wandering out of spec (can be tested by multimeter)
I see the MAF has been suggested, and while it is a good idea to clean it, 99% of the time on a Subaru, it simply leads to poor performance/running rough/barely running when it is dirty or going bad. That year may be MAP based, I cannot remember.
The IACV sticking open and TPS being out of spec are what will most likely cause the RPMs to rise randomly, assuming it's not a simply throttle cable issue that is rather rare.
My '99 Impreza had IACV and TPS issues at about 220k miles. The TPS was out of spec in upper and lower ranges, causing hesitation.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;49215107]I absolutely fucking fucking fucking FUCK fuck fuckity FUCKING HATE the dbw in my car. The half second delay in my throttle response makes it absolutely impossible to carefully slowly accelerate from a stop. There's 4 inches of snow on the streets and it took me 15 minutes to drive 5 blocks, and just about got stuck twice. It took 5 fucking minutes to get my cold blubbery ass out of my parking spot. I might as well be driving a funny car with drag slicks, that would probably get better traction than this fucking useless cheapo-engineered garbage pile.
Now I'm wondering if it's feasible to transplant the cable throttle from an older crown Vic in.[/QUOTE]
Not unless you want to swap an old transmission in as well (you really don't). Have you been having throttle sensitivity problems in 1 and 2 as well? On mine, 1 and 2 have [I]much[/I] finer throttle response, whereas in D it feels like 1/4 throttle = what 3/4 should be. I find it really hard to keep consistent speed under 40 because the very tiniest throttle movements make such a huge difference.
At any speed, if I am coasting or stopped with my foot off the pedal, if I press the pedal (doesn't matter hard or soft), the throttle won't even open up for around a half second. I've gotten used to it while moving, but if I'm stopped, starting off, I press the pedal slowly, and after the half second, the computer is like "oh shit I wasn't paying attention I gotta catch up" and jumps right to where the pedal is after the delay. It makes tires break loose in snow, and makes everyone in the car think I drove like a teenage girl. I will loathe ford engineers until my dying breath, which might be pretty soon.
Went out with some friends this weekend and ended up meeting the owner of a local shop down the road from me. Its a small world. Said he makes more money from repairing/rebuilding really fucked up BMW's/Audi's than he does normal mechanic work.
As an example he showed me photos of a 2014 BMW (forgot model- but a SUV-type) that he picked up for $2000. Front end completely destroyed. He put a lot of time into it and making it right and sold it for a hefty profit.
Looks like I'm putting a clutch in the BMW on Saturday -__-
[QUOTE=Lerlth;49214571]
- Really really thorough radiator flush (I flushed it at least 22 times)
[/QUOTE]
I flushed my truck afew times, but the first two were the best you can do for a steel block.
[t]http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/58/581bc24c-c454-4129-9968-a986e31fd062_400.jpg[/t]
Dont do it to aluminum tho lol.
Did price shoping local shops want 1495$ minimum to rebuild my TF727 just to stock....guess whos gonna learn about rebuilding an automatic transmission!
Kinda helps I have the Chrysler shop manuals and I spent most of highschool in shop class Just need to figure out parts and I should be set.
So far only thing I havnt done on a car yet is a rear end rebuild.
[QUOTE=JesseR92;49217305]Did price shoping local shops want 1495$ minimum to rebuild my TF727 just to stock....guess whos gonna learn about rebuilding an automatic transmission!
Kinda helps I have the Chrysler shop manuals and I spent most of highschool in shop class Just need to figure out parts and I should be set.
So far only thing I havnt done on a car yet is a rear end rebuild.[/QUOTE]
Get one of these for tucking the piston seals;
[img]http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/images/P/13.jpg[/img]
And make a slurry of assembly grease /trans fluid and use it to lubricate the seals as you tuck them in. Very very useful and makes life much less frustrating.
If you do take apart the valve body, watch out for little steel BBs that some have in there as a sort of check valve. Use assembly grease to hold them in place.
[url]http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LBG3/19250/N0444.oap?ck=Search_N0444_-1_-1&pt=N0444&ppt=C0207[/url]
[QUOTE=clutch2;49217368]Get one of these for tucking the piston seals;
[img]http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/images/P/13.jpg[/img]
And make a slurry of assembly grease /trans fluid and use it to lubricate the seals as you tuck them in. Very very useful and makes life much less frustrating.
If you do take apart the valve body, watch out for little steel BBs that some have in there as a sort of check valve. Use assembly grease to hold them in place.
[url]http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LBG3/19250/N0444.oap?ck=Search_N0444_-1_-1&pt=N0444&ppt=C0207[/url][/QUOTE]
Thanks for the tip also whats that tool called?
[QUOTE=clutch2;49217368]Get one of these for tucking the piston seals;
[img]http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/images/P/13.jpg[/img]
And make a slurry of assembly grease /trans fluid and use it to lubricate the seals as you tuck them in. Very very useful and makes life much less frustrating.
If you do take apart the valve body, watch out for little steel BBs that some have in there as a sort of check valve. Use assembly grease to hold them in place.
[url]http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LBG3/19250/N0444.oap?ck=Search_N0444_-1_-1&pt=N0444&ppt=C0207[/url][/QUOTE]
also watch out for flying snap rings that like to fly across the shop.
[QUOTE=JesseR92;49217504]Thanks for the tip also whats that tool called?[/QUOTE]
Lip seal tool.
Otherwise get some stiff piano wire and a chunk of brake line and make your own, just loop it then smash it in a vice.
DP's on point with snaprings that go flying. Read the directions very carefully for teardown to ensure it's done in the right process. A good example is there's a Chrysler (IIRC) auto trans that has the overdrive section with a spring in it that requires to be taken apart with a hydraulic press so you don't take your hand off (same idea as taking apart struts without compressing the spring). Powerful little bastard, and def something to know about lol.
Look at that evil bugger in there.. just waiting to blow your face off
[video=youtube;oacaJ7TARfg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oacaJ7TARfg[/video]
[QUOTE=jazxsora;49218400][url]http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/5337847705.html[/url]
Celica Lowrider anyone? :v:[/QUOTE]
That poor car. And that roll cage looks like it's made of PVC.
[QUOTE=clutch2;49218515]Lip seal tool.
Otherwise get some stiff piano wire and a chunk of brake line and make your own, just loop it then smash it in a vice.
DP's on point with snaprings that go flying. Read the directions very carefully for teardown to ensure it's done in the right process. A good example is there's a Chrysler (IIRC) auto trans that has the overdrive section with a spring in it that requires to be taken apart with a hydraulic press so you don't take your hand off (same idea as taking apart struts without compressing the spring). Powerful little bastard, and def something to know about lol.
Look at that evil bugger in there.. just waiting to blow your face off
[video=youtube;oacaJ7TARfg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oacaJ7TARfg[/video][/QUOTE]
My trans doesnt have an overdrive so good on that account I do have access to 200ton press through Im watching through a 20 part how to and I have the shop manuals.
@jesseR92
The 727 is one of the "easier" automatics to rebuild too. Get a better valve body, maybe put in tougher clutches, easy to build them up.
[editline]1st December 2015[/editline]
My dad has done a bunch so PM me if you have any questions
Manual valve body too!
Rebuilding automatic transmissions really takes me back to college. During that specific unit in class one of the school's old Ram trucks blew the trans up and I was the one who got that assignment. The case was toast and all that but they got me all the new parts and stuff to finish it off.... except on the new case the hole for the shift lever coming out was bigger than the original case, so they was a gap. They were going to have the fabrication/cad/machining students make a space to seal it up, but before they got to that I graduated and never got to see if the trans I rebuilt worked properly. Always meant to go back and ask.. never got around to it. Ah well.
Took the Speed3 wing off the car today. First step towards stocking it out. I bolted this guy on back in Feb of last year...
Up next will be either removing the aftermarket intake and horns, or removing the coilovers.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/spdshEIl.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/RWR2LShl.jpg[/IMG]
Why are you doing those things?
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