• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
    5,004 replies, posted
yaaaaaaay They also boost the white trash's perception of you by 20%
[QUOTE=CodeMonkey3;49318976]Trek? Writeup? Cookies? Trac-lock? You're speaking more gibberish than a Thai hooker right now to me.[/QUOTE] I'm Trek, a Writeup is a big infodump about a car, cookies are what Birdman calls donuts because he's a redneck or something, and trac-lock are covered in my writeup.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;49319032]Anyone here tire nerds? Math says I require 23psi in my tires. But I believe that's too low. Ohhhh the joys of going oversized on tires! I guess I need to go get some chalk and a air compressor and see what the pressure needs to be...[/QUOTE] I really dont get that on the door or gascap it will say 20 PSI but at 20PSI the tire is damn well flat I just go off what it says on the tire.
[QUOTE=dwt110;49319224]How do I tell when tires are balding to the point where I should get new ones? Is there some coin trick I can do or whatnot?[/QUOTE] Tires have wear bars, which are bars sticking up in the recesses of the tread. If the wear bar and the rest of the tire tread are even with eachother, replace the tire. and I've been sniped..... Anyway, nothing but best wishes for you and your family stoner, sorry to hear about what happened.
I've used 5 1/2 sets of tires in my 75k miles of driving. Every single set of tires between both my cars has done this. This is an image from 8 hours ago of my Nankang TourSports which have had just about 15k miles put on them. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-12-10%2020.39.36.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-12-14%2013.15.53.jpg[/t] (second pic is a different and worse tire) You replace the tires when the inside starts showing the bands, the outside of the tread is always at least 3x the wear bar and a visual inspection of the car on the ground will never show tire condition unless you stick your head fully under the car. :v:
I've got a bit of a headscratcher. Got a Landcruiser that can't seem to hold oil pressure. We have rebuilt it twice, second time checking every single part inside the engine that could have the slightest chance of losing pressure, with no luck. It gains pressure when we keep the revs on for a few mins, then drops it all the second we let go. The engine sounds perfect, except for short couple-minute long stints of ticking every now and again. Anyone got any ideas?
Sounds like it's running normal to me.
Yeah it sounds fine, and revs perfectly. Its just that random ticking, and the fact that it has NO oil pressure until you hold the revs for a few minutes.
[QUOTE=samuel2213;49320373]Yeah it sounds fine, and revs perfectly. Its just that random ticking, and the fact that it has NO oil pressure until you hold the revs for a few minutes.[/QUOTE] Maybe a oil pickup gasket or something along those lines? Or the screen could be blocked up with bearing material, ect.
Not bad [url]http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5286563628.html[/url]
[QUOTE=dwt110;49319224]How do I tell when tires are balding to the point where I should get new ones? Is there some coin trick I can do or whatnot?[/QUOTE] I stick a caliper in the tread, you want at least 1,5mm (2/32") on summers and 3mm (2/16") on winter tyres, but I recommend having a bit more, especially on your winter tyres
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49320145]I've used 5 1/2 sets of tires in my 75k miles of driving. Every single set of tires between both my cars has done this. This is an image from 8 hours ago of my Nankang TourSports which have had just about 15k miles put on them. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-12-10%2020.39.36.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-12-14%2013.15.53.jpg[/t] (second pic is a different and worse tire) You replace the tires when the inside starts showing the bands, the outside of the tread is always at least 3x the wear bar and a visual inspection of the car on the ground will never show tire condition unless you stick your head fully under the car. :v:[/QUOTE] I wish I could get 15k out of a set of tires. I manage more like 6k. I've gone through 50 sets of tires on my truck in 10 years
[QUOTE=Cinnamonbun;49316152]Yeah when I bought the car it already was filled up with some other fluid, but as soon as I started using RAINX it smeared it up. What brand do you use? (I don't wanna make my own mix of alcohol and Windex, i just wanna buy a bottle)[/QUOTE] I saw that Windex has one, I might try that. It used to be that the cheapest on the shelf wouldn't smear, now that's not the case. [editline]15th December 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=DPKiller;49319032]Anyone here tire nerds? Math says I require 23psi in my tires. But I believe that's too low. Ohhhh the joys of going oversized on tires! I guess I need to go get some chalk and a air compressor and see what the pressure needs to be...[/QUOTE] Usually, unless the tires can't handle it/going offroad, it's door+whatever you prefer. My truck calls for 44/50 on 235/85/16, I run 50/50 on 265/75/16 (1" wider, .2" shorter). My tires are load range E and rated to go up to 80PSI, so yours will likely respond differently to 50PSI.
Mine are load range C for 2270lbs at 50 psi with a (average) 4,200lbs truck. Granted I just bumped the size up and put on a LT tire. The truck calls for 35psi, math says 23. My head says 30. I'm gonna goof off with chaulk tonight and sheet rock to see my contact patch.
[QUOTE=samuel2213;49320206]I've got a bit of a headscratcher. Got a Landcruiser that can't seem to hold oil pressure. We have rebuilt it twice, second time checking every single part inside the engine that could have the slightest chance of losing pressure, with no luck. It gains pressure when we keep the revs on for a few mins, then drops it all the second we let go. The engine sounds perfect, except for short couple-minute long stints of ticking every now and again. Anyone got any ideas?[/QUOTE] Typically oil pressure is built by the passages the oil flow through, not necessarily the pump or other parts. A weak and failing pump can fail to provide enough oil to maintain that pressure, but if you've already replaced that then it's unlikely you have a defective replacement as well. Have you replaced the oil pressure sending unit? My Z would have 0 oil pressure between 2.1k and 3.2k RPM as well as when idling for more than 10 seconds (blipping throttle brought it back).
[QUOTE=DPKiller;49321792]Mine are load range C for 2270lbs at 50 psi with a (average) 4,200lbs truck. Granted I just bumped the size up and put on a LT tire. The truck calls for 35psi, math says 23. My head says 30. I'm gonna goof off with chaulk tonight and sheet rock to see my contact patch.[/QUOTE] Have you weighed it, or where did you find the number? I can't find official numbers, Chevy forums report anywhere from 4200 for an ECSB to 5200 for a RCSB. I'd start at 30, play around a bit. If the truck is closer to 5000, 30 would be closer to what it'd need.
[QUOTE=FordLord;49321899]Have you weighed it, or where did you find the number? I can't find official numbers, Chevy forums report anywhere from 4200 for an ECSB to 5200 for a RCSB. I'd start at 30, play around a bit. If the truck is closer to 5000, 30 would be closer to what it'd need.[/QUOTE] A v6 single cab 8ft bed in 92 should weight 3,800lbs curb. I'm pulling 4,200 out of my ass.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49320145]I've used 5 1/2 sets of tires in my 75k miles of driving. Every single set of tires between both my cars has done this. This is an image from 8 hours ago of my Nankang TourSports which have had just about 15k miles put on them. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-12-10%2020.39.36.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-12-14%2013.15.53.jpg[/t] (second pic is a different and worse tire) You replace the tires when the inside starts showing the bands, the outside of the tread is always at least 3x the wear bar and a visual inspection of the car on the ground will never show tire condition unless you stick your head fully under the car. :v:[/QUOTE] Get an alignment done.
[QUOTE=FordLord;49321477]I saw that Windex has one, I might try that. It used to be that the cheapest on the shelf wouldn't smear, now that's not the case. [editline]15th December 2015[/editline] Usually, unless the tires can't handle it/going offroad, it's door+whatever you prefer. My truck calls for 44/50 on 235/85/16, I run 50/50 on 265/75/16 (1" wider, .2" shorter). My tires are load range E and rated to go up to 80PSI, so yours will likely respond differently to 50PSI.[/QUOTE] I accidentally dumped what I assume to be no name Windex in my wiper fluid tank, judging from the ammonia smell, and is the best damn wiper fluid I've ever had.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;49322143]I accidentally dumped what I assume to be no name Windex in my wiper fluid tank, judging from the ammonia smell, and is the best damn wiper fluid I've ever had.[/QUOTE] In the summer, it'd likely work. As far as I can find, Windex freezes at about 17F. Maybe Windex+standard fluid for winter?
the mix I mentioned earlier works perfect in all weather. equal parts windex and alcohol, diluted to 8:1 or about 12% [editline]15th December 2015[/editline] also I just put the dumbest header on my motorized bike it's a 1.125 ID mandrel bent pipe that tapers to 7/8ths in the last inch and dumps straight down in front of the motor god damn is it loud (like permanent hearing damage loud), but my bike sure is zippy with it on. haven't gone past about 30 with it because my ears just couldn't take it. should be even quicker when I port match and WOT tune it, I've still got my summer jets in and the motor is breathing way easier so it's definitely running on the lean side I might need to find out if there's any decibel restrictions at the local races. this thing is several orders of magnitude louder than anything else on the track
The Butre Mix is likely the best for cold weather being it has alcohol in it, [URL="http://chemistry.about.com/od/factsstructures/fl/What-Is-the-Freezing-Point-of-Alcohol-Freezing-Temperature-of-Alcohol.htm"]This has some sciency reasons why[/URL], but only a few.
basically as long as it's warmer than -40 my mix won't freeze.
[QUOTE=butre;49322701]the mix I mentioned earlier works perfect in all weather. equal parts windex and alcohol, diluted to 8:1 or about 12% [editline]15th December 2015[/editline] also I just put the dumbest header on my motorized bike it's a 1.125 ID mandrel bent pipe that tapers to 7/8ths in the last inch and dumps straight down in front of the motor god damn is it loud (like permanent hearing damage loud), but my bike sure is zippy with it on. haven't gone past about 30 with it because my ears just couldn't take it. should be even quicker when I port match and WOT tune it, I've still got my summer jets in and the motor is breathing way easier so it's definitely running on the lean side I might need to find out if there's any decibel restrictions at the local races. this thing is several orders of magnitude louder than anything else on the track[/QUOTE] What kind of alcohol do you use? They generally will dry out rubber lines over time. My truck is 31 years old with a cracked washer tank and dead washer pump, my car is working perfect though.
whatever is on hand. usually methanol if I'm mixing it at home but if I'm doing it in a wal mart parking lot after I've realized I've got no wiper fluid I might use some strong isopropyl. [editline]15th December 2015[/editline] all the alcohol does is keep it from freezing, it's not there for any other purpose. you can substitute anything else that has a very low freezing point and mixes readily with water. [editline]15th December 2015[/editline] I know people who use their washer tanks for methanol injection, they just put straight methanol in them. doesn't seem to do too much harm [editline]15th December 2015[/editline] [img]http://imgkk.com/i/rcig.jpg[/img] that extra acceleration got to me my brother watched me take off on it and he described the acceleration as "pretty fucking brutal"
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49321983]Get an alignment done.[/QUOTE] Both my cars have perfect alignments and are even aligned for 0 toe instead of going for a little toe in like I really should. Both have brand new inner/outer tie rods and have alignments every single time I get any sort of suspension component changed. I've never bought a set of tires without getting an alignment around when I get them either. I also only go to the most reputable alignment shop in town. I'm pretty sure I just kill tires.
that looks like camber wear though
ef civic hoods on sedans and and hatchbacks are different :) where is my pick and pull recept :) :)
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49324056] I'm pretty sure I just kill tires.[/QUOTE] What about your shocks? Having shitty shocks will shred tires way faster. My GF, dad, and mom has shit shocks and burn brand new tires down and warp them around 8-12 months after getting them. After changing the shocks on my mom's van, haven't had an issue.
15k is pretty good anyway
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