[QUOTE=DOG-GY;49374051]yep
[img_thumb]http://i.picpar.com/QkDb.png[/img_thumb]
im stealing all of londons architecture[/QUOTE]
That looks especially nice with the Facepunch snow.
[QUOTE=PyroCF;49373792]Some Skoda saloon and a Vauxhall astra[/QUOTE]
Thats a Vauxhall Vectra C (pre-facelift) and a Skoda Superb I
Looks more like a Skoda Octavia to me.
sportka is now turbo'd
power to weight ratio :smug:
[QUOTE=Gulen;49374769]Looks more like a Skoda Octavia to me.[/QUOTE]
its some weird looking dodge stratus
[QUOTE=FordLord;49373888]Dual XML8100.
Snag one for ~$40 with wiring kit on Amazon.
17WRMS, remote control, 3.5MM AUX, iPod dock. I have them in both my vehicles, have yet to find a better deal.
[editline]23rd December 2015[/editline]
I almost forgot to ask;
I have a radio issue somewhere, though I've never encountered this kind of issue.
Every now and then, the system cuts out audio wise, power stays on.
If i lightly touch the front left speaker, everything works perfect.
I haven't had time to troubleshoot. I've been focusing on more important work on the truck.
The system was shot when I got the truck, all 4 speakers are new now.[/QUOTE]
The speaker your touching is grounding outm take it out and check. Sometimes you have to wrap the connectors or back of the speaker with something to prevent it.
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49374911]its some weird looking dodge stratus[/QUOTE]
Seems like peel p50 to me.
[QUOTE=FordLord;49370265]That's way too much for a head unit. Shop around, see what's on discount.
I bought a Dual XML8100 2 years ago for my car. Has a remote, ipod dock, AUX 3.5mm input, 17WRMS per speaker. It was $40 on discount at the time.
Loved it so much that I just bought another for my truck. This time it was $25, but too cheap for free shipping and was about $35 total.
[T]http://i.imgur.com/bjQICjW.jpg[/t]
B/W screen with blue accents, all of it has brightness controls, very easy on the eyes at night.[/QUOTE]
Depends on how much you care, really. I highly doubt that unit puts out a genuine 17 watts per channel, as most car audio products over-rate what the unit is capable of. If you pay $150, you pay for quality and a legitimate power rating. If you're feeling adventurous, take a multimeter to the speaker leads and see what you're actually getting.
[QUOTE=Aetna;49375291]Depends on how much you care, really. I highly doubt that unit puts out a genuine 17 watts per channel, as most car audio products over-rate what the unit is capable of. If you pay $150, you pay for quality and a legitimate power rating. If you're feeling adventurous, take a multimeter to the speaker leads and see what you're actually getting.[/QUOTE]
Its rated at 50w peak, 17w RMS per channel.
Comparing it to my old one that was only 4WRMS per channel, I'd believe it.
To be honest, $150 is outrageous for a head unit - most of the $150-200 ones I see are rated at 17-20w RMS and don't provide a $100-150 benefit over this one.
[editline]23rd December 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Serj22;49375120]The speaker your touching is grounding out take it out and check. Sometimes you have to wrap the connectors or back of the speaker with something to prevent it.[/QUOTE]
I was hoping I wouldn't have to take the dash out to fix this, but sounds like I will need to.
I think I know what it's doing now, thank you for the help.
[QUOTE=FordLord;49375873]
To be honest, $150 is outrageous for a head unit - most of the $150-200 ones I see are rated at 17-20w RMS and don't provide a $100-150 benefit over this one.
[/QUOTE]
Hold up there playboy. This is spoken like someone who's driving a '99 Corolla and saying "I don't understand why someone would spend $15k on a car when the Corolla is perfect."
Let's step back and take a look at that headunit you're pushing.
First off, it's a Dual product, so the build quality is lower than other ones on the market, which amount to about the $10 or $20 you see in the difference between that and say.. a JVC KDR-660 which is same feature set, little more money.
Your stereo also doesn't have bluetooth or a CD player, which keeps the price down further. The RCA outputs are only 2v (which is low) so it's certainly not suitable for system building. It's a niche' stereo that, yes, doesn't what you want, but it's not a high quality piece. It's a $40 radio with aux and a place to dock an Ipod. It's lightyears better than a BOSS audio or Element or any of that straight up garbage, but it's very barebones and some people do want more out of their stereo.
Let's explore further options.
#1; USB input. This is becoming ubiquitous with upgrading stereos. While the Dual allows Ipod 30 pin docking, the USB allows Ipod Lightning and 30 pin connectivity, USB flash drive connectivity, and in some cases Android connectivity as well. Charge and play, while letting the digital to analog converter in the headunit take care of the heavy lifting.
#2; more than MP3 support. In the audiophile world there's FLAC, AAC, etc. It's more than an MP3 world these days. If you want better than CD quality output, you're going to be downloading songs in FLAC, etc... they'll just sound better. You need a stereo that supports this.
#3; bluetooth. I know that Dual is BT ready.. but I've used the BT module it's ready for an it's trash. Not all mics are created equal. Pioneer seems to have one of the best BT mics on the market currently, and Kenwood/JVC corp and Alpine aren't far behind. Stream music wirelessly (not an audiophile solution currently) and of course make/take calls handsfree to comply with local laws.
#4; voice command. Via bluetooth most smartphones will allow voice control activation with the press of a single button. It triggers Siri or Google talk and then you can find/play music, make a call, or even send a text from just your voice.
#5; System building capability. 3 RCA outputs for front, rear, and subwoofer are paramount for most system building decks. Plus it's best for quality and noise rejection to have a high voltage output on those, 5v or so. 2v is a little low for anything more than adding subs.
#6; High quality chipsets. This is where the money comes in. Not all Digital to Analog converters, bluetooth chips, and processors are created equally. Some audiophile headunits feature 3x Burr Browne processors to ensure proper handling of digital audio files, some feature advanced new bluetooth chipsets to get bluetooth audio streaming closer to CD quality, etc. The better the chipset, the better the headunit is going to sound, especially when paired up with amps, etc. It's paramount in system building. There's a reason the $20 BOSS sounds like complete shit VS. a $60 JVC even in the same application. And there's a reason both of those sound like shit compared to a $200 Pioner 80PRS.
#7; Digital sound processing. It goes without saying that the more control over your music you have the better it will sound. Mosconi, Audison, JBL, RockfordFuzzball.. they all offer a $500+ sound processor that allows a headspinning amount of adjustments. That gives you an idea of the type of cost for getting the 'tweability' some need to squeeze every last bit of quality out of their music.
Some headunits feature a more basic setup... my Kenwood BT952HD, for example, has a 7band EQ, ful 6 channels of digital time alignment, 6 channels of level control, 2 channels of HPF settings, plus of course Subwoofer LPF.... it's quite an advanced sound processor for being simply built into the headunit. However with the sound processing on/off it's apparent the different immediately. The sound stage drops and center image just falls apart with it turned off, the depth of music suffers.. all of that. Without the sound processing in the headunit I'd have to dip into a $500+ sound processor.
#8; CD players. Of course this may seem like old hat.. but the quickest easiest way to get good quality music fast is to pop in a CD. It's easier than tracking down high quality MP3, easier than getting FLAC media.. etc. Pop in a CD and you're listening to fairly high quality audio in just a moment's time.
My stereo was $250 when I bought it and I wouldn't even for a moment consider something different or more basic. Going around spouting that a $40 is all anyone needs is ignorant.
Yeah, had I known my friend was going to buy a trash BOSS, I would have thrown in some money myself. But I have it now and I might as well use it. It's not like him and I are audiophiles or anything, so it's not that big of a deal to us. Most of his music is 320kbps MP3 or streaming Spotify.
[QUOTE=clutch2;49376460]Hold up there playboy. This is spoken like someone who's driving a '99 Corolla and saying "I don't understand why someone would spend $15k on a car when the Corolla is perfect."
Let's step back and take a look at that headunit you're pushing.
First off, it's a Dual product, so the build quality is lower than other ones on the market, which amount to about the $10 or $20 you see in the difference between that and say.. a JVC KDR-660 which is same feature set, little more money.
Your stereo also doesn't have bluetooth or a CD player, which keeps the price down further. The RCA outputs are only 2v (which is low) so it's certainly not suitable for system building. It's a niche' stereo that, yes, doesn't what you want, but it's not a high quality piece. It's a $40 radio with aux and a place to dock an Ipod. It's lightyears better than a BOSS audio or Element or any of that straight up garbage, but it's very barebones and some people do want more out of their stereo.
Let's explore further options.
#1; USB input. This is becoming ubiquitous with upgrading stereos. While the Dual allows Ipod 30 pin docking, the USB allows Ipod Lightning and 30 pin connectivity, USB flash drive connectivity, and in some cases Android connectivity as well. Charge and play, while letting the digital to analog converter in the headunit take care of the heavy lifting.
#2; more than MP3 support. In the audiophile world there's FLAC, AAC, etc. It's more than an MP3 world these days. If you want better than CD quality output, you're going to be downloading songs in FLAC, etc... they'll just sound better. You need a stereo that supports this.
#3; bluetooth. I know that Dual is BT ready.. but I've used the BT module it's ready for an it's trash. Not all mics are created equal. Pioneer seems to have one of the best BT mics on the market currently, and Kenwood/JVC corp and Alpine aren't far behind. Stream music wirelessly (not an audiophile solution currently) and of course make/take calls handsfree to comply with local laws.
#4; voice command. Via bluetooth most smartphones will allow voice control activation with the press of a single button. It triggers Siri or Google talk and then you can find/play music, make a call, or even send a text from just your voice.
#5; System building capability. 3 RCA outputs for front, rear, and subwoofer are paramount for most system building decks. Plus it's best for quality and noise rejection to have a high voltage output on those, 5v or so. 2v is a little low for anything more than adding subs.
#6; High quality chipsets. This is where the money comes in. Not all Digital to Analog converters, bluetooth chips, and processors are created equally. Some audiophile headunits feature 3x Burr Browne processors to ensure proper handling of digital audio files, some feature advanced new bluetooth chipsets to get bluetooth audio streaming closer to CD quality, etc. The better the chipset, the better the headunit is going to sound, especially when paired up with amps, etc. It's paramount in system building. There's a reason the $20 BOSS sounds like complete shit VS. a $60 JVC even in the same application. And there's a reason both of those sound like shit compared to a $200 Pioner 80PRS.
#7; Digital sound processing. It goes without saying that the more control over your music you have the better it will sound. Mosconi, Audison, JBL, RockfordFuzzball.. they all offer a $500+ sound processor that allows a headspinning amount of adjustments. That gives you an idea of the type of cost for getting the 'tweability' some need to squeeze every last bit of quality out of their music.
Some headunits feature a more basic setup... my Kenwood BT952HD, for example, has a 7band EQ, ful 6 channels of digital time alignment, 6 channels of level control, 2 channels of HPF settings, plus of course Subwoofer LPF.... it's quite an advanced sound processor for being simply built into the headunit. However with the sound processing on/off it's apparent the different immediately. The sound stage drops and center image just falls apart with it turned off, the depth of music suffers.. all of that. Without the sound processing in the headunit I'd have to dip into a $500+ sound processor.
#8; CD players. Of course this may seem like old hat.. but the quickest easiest way to get good quality music fast is to pop in a CD. It's easier than tracking down high quality MP3, easier than getting FLAC media.. etc. Pop in a CD and you're listening to fairly high quality audio in just a moment's time.
My stereo was $250 when I bought it and I wouldn't even for a moment consider something different or more basic. Going around spouting that a $40 is all anyone needs is ignorant.[/QUOTE]
It is a $100 Dual, on sale for $40. A pretty high end Dual with good build quality. I should know, I own two of them.
#1: Personally, I had USB input in my last radio. I preferred 3.5MM input over it. One vehicle, an average thumb drive would hit my knee.
#2: 3.5mm supports whatever your phone does in pretty good quality.
#3: I've never used the module, both my GPS units have bluetooth and I use that.
#4: This radio supports some of that with the addon, I've never tried it.
#5:This has 2 outputs; Front + rear/sub. 2V must not be too bad when the KDR660 is still only 2.5V.
#6: The chipset on this one is pretty good. Better than any of the JVC/BOSS/ETC units i have heard.
#7: This unit actually shines here. 5 levels of EQ, with a ton of options that I'm still figuring out. Loud option, input level adjustment, with much more.
#8: After having my last mechless unit, I would never have a CD player again. Much smaller units, easier to install, much lighter.
For 90% of people, a $40 ($100 off sale) radio is all they need. $250 is a rear axle rebuild, $150 is a steering rack, etc.
Man, headunits in 'murica are so cheap.
The ones I'm looking for here which are "incredibly fucking cheap" for me [I]start[/I] at ~$250 and go up to ~$1000
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49377042]Man, headunits in 'murica are so cheap.
The ones I'm looking for here which are "incredibly fucking cheap" for me [I]start[/I] at ~$250 and go up to ~$1000[/QUOTE]
Depends what you're looking for. AM/FM radio + bluetooth + aux port combo will be cheap.. all that other stuff will add up fast
[QUOTE=danjee;49373883]I'm going to a pretty proper indoor karting venue tomorrow. Anybody here kart? Tips? I've karted twice but it was pretty lowkey, in a parking lot with cones and so forth[/QUOTE]Well I qualified first, finished first, and set the fastest lap so I don't need your help anyway
[editline]23rd December 2015[/editline]
Brake lock induced oversteer is fun
[QUOTE=FordLord;49376943]It is a $100 Dual, on sale for $40. A pretty high end Dual with good build quality. I should know, I own two of them.
#1: Personally, I had USB input in my last radio. I preferred 3.5MM input over it. One vehicle, an average thumb drive would hit my knee.
#2: 3.5mm supports whatever your phone does in pretty good quality.
#3: I've never used the module, both my GPS units have bluetooth and I use that.
#4: This radio supports some of that with the addon, I've never tried it.
#5:This has 2 outputs; Front + rear/sub. 2V must not be too bad when the KDR660 is still only 2.5V.
#6: The chipset on this one is pretty good. Better than any of the JVC/BOSS/ETC units i have heard.
#7: This unit actually shines here. 5 levels of EQ, with a ton of options that I'm still figuring out. Loud option, input level adjustment, with much more.
#8: After having my last mechless unit, I would never have a CD player again. Much smaller units, easier to install, much lighter.
For 90% of people, a $40 ($100 off sale) radio is all they need. $250 is a rear axle rebuild, $150 is a steering rack, etc.[/QUOTE]
3.5mm is absolutely worse than USB/Digital media transfer. When you're using 3.5mm you're using the phone/MP3 player's digital to analog converter. It's cheap and meant to 'get the job done' for a pair of headphones, etc. If 3.5mm and USB sound the same between those it's a sure fire sign the headunit's digital to analog converter isn't that good.
Comparing the digital sound processing of a system building headunit (one with a truly deep processing set) to the Dual with a 5 band EQ and loudness setting isn't even close. I assure you. If you're not an audio quality guy and some light EQ adjustments is all you need, then yes, a 5 band EQ is nice... but I rely heavily on each and every one of my settings to set up a proper centered image. You can't do that with just an EQ.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49377042]Man, headunits in 'murica are so cheap.
The ones I'm looking for here which are "incredibly fucking cheap" for me [I]start[/I] at ~ and go up to ~[/QUOTE]
And if you add navigation to it, it gets ridiculous fast. Like $1200-$1700. And then if you're feeling real fancy, you can get a unit that'll fit your Mercedes perfectly, at the low cost of only $2500...
[editline]24th December 2015[/editline]
Meanwhile I just got a subwoofer and amplifier combo for $80 second hand.
[QUOTE=Gulen;49377614]And if you add navigation to it, it gets ridiculous fast. Like $1200-$1700. And then if you're feeling real fancy, you can get a unit that'll fit your Mercedes perfectly, at the low cost of only $2500...
[editline]24th December 2015[/editline]
Meanwhile I just got a subwoofer and amplifier combo for $80 second hand.[/QUOTE]
Heh. I've found a double din unit with touchscreen and bluetooth for 1000,- at Jula which I'm probably gonna get. I don't really need anything else.
This one, infact: [url]http://www.jula.no/catalog/bil-og-garasje/biltilbehor/billyd/bilstereo/bilstereo-610151/[/url]
I'm so fucking frustrated right now. Took my Daytona to the alignment shop again, because they told me last time it need new wheel bearings, balljoints, and brakes, so I installed new brakes, calipers, rotors, all the balljoints, outer ti-rods, and put new wheel bearings on it. I waited 2 weeks to get it in.
#1: He said the back wheel bearings, which I installed, weren't tight enough. They're 0 load bearings. Fuck off.
#2: Said it doesn't have enough adjustment on the camber. Why the fuck didn't you tell me that the first time!? So now I have to either get a higher degree camber bolt or put new struts in
#3: Said the back wheels will need shimmed for the alignment
Wants to charge me $240 to do this. For literally, I mean literally, $5 in parts and maybe 10 mins worth of time.
This place is really pissing me off. I have no other choice but for them to align it, unless I align it myself because the next place is 20 miles away.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49377691]Heh. I've found a double din unit with touchscreen and bluetooth for 1000,- at Jula which I'm probably gonna get. I don't really need anything else.
This one, infact: [url]http://www.jula.no/catalog/bil-og-garasje/biltilbehor/billyd/bilstereo/bilstereo-610151/[/url][/QUOTE]
Have you tried it? I'm sceptical to all cheap touch screen stuff, it's usually pretty crap. And that they only list the peak output (and at 40W too), and texts like "Whether the touch screen calibration?" and "The sake of safety, driving ban video" and that the text and pictures in the instruction manual don't match seem like big red flags to me :V:
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49377691]Heh. I've found a double din unit with touchscreen and bluetooth for 1000,- at Jula which I'm probably gonna get. I don't really need anything else.
This one, infact: [url]http://www.jula.no/catalog/bil-og-garasje/biltilbehor/billyd/bilstereo/bilstereo-610151/[/url][/QUOTE]
run away
i can't find anything about them on the internet
it's crap i guarantee it
I had a really shady branded single din touchscreen headunit in the Subaru which worked just as it should so I doubt this one with its reviews will be much worse.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;49377701]I'm so fucking frustrated right now. Took my Daytona to the alignment shop again, because they told me last time it need new wheel bearings, balljoints, and brakes, so I installed new brakes, calipers, rotors, all the balljoints, outer ti-rods, and put new wheel bearings on it. I waited 2 weeks to get it in.
#1: He said the back wheel bearings, which I installed, weren't tight enough. They're 0 load bearings. Fuck off.
#2: Said it doesn't have enough adjustment on the camber. Why the fuck didn't you tell me that the first time!? So now I have to either get a higher degree camber bolt or put new struts in
#3: Said the back wheels will need shimmed for the alignment
Wants to charge me $240 to do this. For literally, I mean literally, $5 in parts and maybe 10 mins worth of time.
This place is really pissing me off. I have no other choice but for them to align it, unless I align it myself because the next place is 20 miles away.[/QUOTE]
Typical alignment shop. It's like they don't want to even do any work half the time! Any reason they can give to not do a damn thing they will.
"The engine mount is bad, can't do the alignment!"
Actually .. that one about the brakes being bad so no alignment is pretty funny.. what do the brakes have to do with an alignment? Nothing... You could align a car with no calipers on it at all. Goodness.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49377691]Heh. I've found a double din unit with touchscreen and bluetooth for 1000,- at Jula which I'm probably gonna get. I don't really need anything else.
This one, infact: [url]http://www.jula.no/catalog/bil-og-garasje/biltilbehor/billyd/bilstereo/bilstereo-610151/[/url][/QUOTE]
Nope. That's made on order for jula, I wouldn't touch it at all.
Go to mekonomen or torshov or somewhere that displays the players while wired up to a proper amp.
\
[editline]24th December 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=clutch2;49378071]Typical alignment shop. It's like they don't want to even do any work half the time! Any reason they can give to not do a damn thing they will.
"The engine mount is bad, can't do the alignment!"
Actually .. that one about the brakes being bad so no alignment is pretty funny.. what do the brakes have to do with an alignment? Nothing... You could align a car with no calipers on it at all. Goodness.[/QUOTE]
I was probably insanely lucky with my shop and controller at the "dmv".
At the shop he said he probably wouldn't be able to adjust the front wheels completely, I thought he was gonna fuck me over, but he just did the best he could and signed the papers.
At the "dmv" I managed to bring the wrong goddamn papers, I brought the reciept and the Tüv papers, but not the list of adjustment values. Usually you get told to fuck off for the slightest thing, like unoriginal wheel dimensions, lights or anything else they can find by looking at the car.
Luckily the controller called the shop and got the values mailed to him, and I got my plates back :D
Does anyone make a double DIN touchscreen with video in and USB connection for carputers? That's what I really want.
Pretty sure you could go with any 6.5-7 inch touch screen and fix the usb connection yourself.
Yea that's how it would have to work. A "raw" touchscreen monitor. All the DDIN touchscreens have a video input, but none are going to allow for touchscreen operation to run an operating system. A wireless mouse would work and display on the screen, but that defeats the purpose of touchscreen, lol.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssbnpz7cj.jpeg[/thumb]
Finished my 440! Few odds and ends but ill leave those for when its in car. Going to tear down the 727 trans tomorrow and go through it. After that on to the rear axle
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;49379587][thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssbnpz7cj.jpeg[/thumb]
Finished my 440! Few odds and ends but ill leave those for when its in car. Going to tear down the 727 trans tomorrow and go through it. After that on to the rear axle[/QUOTE]
hey what's your opinion on the 9.25 inch rear end from dodge trucks for a budget street/strip machine?
[QUOTE=Strontboer;49373840]Great news, welcome to the club.
When will you be dropping in a S50B32? Racing scheme when?[/QUOTE]
I used to have a e36, and I daily an e46 this isnt new to me haha. But we got it running today, were just going to basically use it as a gokart for my little brother to learn to drive in since I have a bunch property.
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