• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
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[QUOTE=danjee;49400355]I've just been trying to figure out which Honda is the best buy out the door, no swaps. Rarity and price very much factors—thinking around the $2500 tops. I'm just trying to be realistic for my current self, which does not include swaps. Anyway, the D16 sounds pretty good on paper and EGs are nice and light; I'm bummed that the EX has a moonroof though. EK EX had the same or similar motor right? Maybe that doesn't have a moonroof..?[/QUOTE] EX means full options, vtec and what not. At least for the EG/EK. EX EF's have painted bumpered, big brakes and the D16A6/MPFI. EK EX has the D16Y8 which makes a hair more power than the Z6 but really not any more than to keep the heavier EK moving just as well. Doing a Minime can actually make you more power than a stock Z6/Y8 on far cheaper components, if you get it tuned. The Y7/Y8 motors have the worst oiling of all the motors too. You can pick up a vtec ECU and a premade converted harness for like $350 to OBD1, vtec and MPFI an EF and then a vtec head to complete head runs anywhere from $50-200. You can freshen it up yourself by lapping valves then getting it surfaced, washed and toss in some new valve guide seals which cause most of the premature oil burning in Hondas. All you're doing is swapping the head which is doing the same work as a headgasket but removing a oil restrictor plug and hooking up a pre-made harness to the extra vtec wiring. Vtec Hondas are usually beat into the ground and abused endlessly, you could save a ton of money by doing the same thing yourself. Although you do miss out on the short geared trans which does kind of suck. You could go the route Bradley would probably suggest which is snag a Y7 head for like $45, toss a cam regrind in it for like $115 then get valve springs and go from there. The Y7 head is like a Z6 head without the vtec, the ports and casing is extremely similar. This would be a great one as well. If you want the best Honda out the door, don't buy a Civic. Buy an Integra. Civics are shitty stock so you have to do a bunch to them. Integras, you already have a B series. Replacement nonvtec B20's are $450+shipping, the front swaybar isn't trash and comes with front/rear swaybars along with the mounts for them unlike many Civics. Chassis is stiffer, P/S rack is good with P/S fully deleted, disk brakes stock, ect. EK's fucking suck to put swaybars on and you should generally try to sway away from EG/EK Coupes because you're throwing away all the LCAs so you can get some swaybars. Only the Si EK was equipped with a rear swaybar and it's gonna run $300 at least to get a pencil stick on there. If you want the best bang, get an EF, DC or an EG. If you get an EG go strip a DC Integra for all of it's swaybars and lcas. Try to find a front/rear swaybar off a GS/GSR or a 99-01(not 98!) chassis, otherwise don't pay more than $10 each. Next just go buy ProgressAuto CS2's, they're the single best coilover setup for the money. If you go EF, you have tons of aftermarket swaybars to make the thing nuts. My setup would be a 24 in the front and a 22 in the back but ST does a 22f/22r kit. I'd rather do a ST rear and a Progress front to make a 24f/22r though. I did a DA front 22mm and a Si 15mm because I came across all the stock hardware for a total of $50 for 1 front and 3 rears. The rear isn't stiff enough like my 24f/22r Integra with a USDM ITR suspension setup. With the EF you save money and weight but have to spend money making it make more power. I have raced my Integra and the Civic and they're pretty damn close in a straight line. The weight really makes a difference. Some good tires, bracing, seats and a coilover setup in my EF would be fucking amazing to go blast around in. The Integra makes a far better daily and feels infinitely better at higher speeds. It all depends on what you want to do with it, which would be more cost effective to build but you could easily build either each way. My Integra is by far my favorite car but if I wanted to track prep one or something, I'd definitely do the EF. [editline]27th December 2015[/editline] If you wanna be competitive in actual competitive events with rules and regulations, something like that basically looks like this formula lol. [url]http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/RedShift%20Tech%20Page.htm[/url]
[QUOTE=TippZ;49401531]oops, sorry! a bit tired it's the coolant i need to drain in order to install a engine heater[/QUOTE] [URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcYjGHU4lEY"]Here you go, it's pretty simple[/URL]
I can take apart my entire car understand what most of it is, but I don't know a lot about "modern" systems" so bear with me. My E36's heater works like shit. It takes quite a while to get to anything near a comfortable temperature, and it will absolutely not heat the air if the car is standing still, so we had to drive around half an hour today because we couldn't wait with the car standing still. [editline]28th December 2015[/editline] Is it likely that it's caused by air in the cooling system?
Getting angel eyes I reckons
I let my Daytona heat all the way up until the fan kicked on and I opened up the oil cap and smoke comes out. So I can safely assume it's piston rings? If so, can I still drive it? It's not like billowing smoke out of the valve cover, but it's like floating mist. I really, really, don't want to change the piston rings. I guess, if it comes down to it, I could drive it over to a friends garage, take the head off and oil pain and pull the pistons out and rering them. But I need some tips. I've already thrown about $1500 at the car including the car itself, I'm reaching the point where I could buy a turbo'd one for that price, except I would probably be doing the same fixes to it too. But still, turbooo.
[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;49402376]I can take apart my entire car understand what most of it is, but I don't know a lot about "modern" systems" so bear with me. My E36's heater works like shit. It takes quite a while to get to anything near a comfortable temperature, and it will absolutely not heat the air if the car is standing still, so we had to drive around half an hour today because we couldn't wait with the car standing still. [editline]28th December 2015[/editline] Is it likely that it's caused by air in the cooling system?[/QUOTE] It could be air in the cooling system (I doubt it) but it could also be a number of other things. Not sure if an e36 has one but the heater tap could be not opening properly The thermostat could be stuck open, not letting the car warm up fully your heater core could be partially blocked internally (feel the heater hoses, if they're both pretty hot or warm up around the same time as each other then the flow is fine.)
[QUOTE=Lerlth;49402583]I let my Daytona heat all the way up until the fan kicked on and I opened up the oil cap and smoke comes out. So I can safely assume it's piston rings? If so, can I still drive it? It's not like billowing smoke out of the valve cover, but it's like floating mist. I really, really, don't want to change the piston rings. I guess, if it comes down to it, I could drive it over to a friends garage, take the head off and oil pain and pull the pistons out and rering them. But I need some tips. I've already thrown about $1500 at the car including the car itself, I'm reaching the point where I could buy a turbo'd one for that price, except I would probably be doing the same fixes to it too. But still, turbooo.[/QUOTE] Have you done a compression test? If you've got half-way decent compression numbers all around, who cares? If it's like 90psi all around, then yes, that's trouble. But if I pulled a 130 or so on all cylinders I'd just roll with it.
[QUOTE=clutch2;49402803]Have you done a compression test? If you've got half-way decent compression numbers all around, who cares? If it's like 90psi all around, then yes, that's trouble. But if I pulled a 130 or so on all cylinders I'd just roll with it.[/QUOTE] Youd burn blue if it was rings too.
[QUOTE=JesseR92;49402948]Youd burn blue if it was rings too.[/QUOTE] If enough leaked down to burn the oil. Otherwise its just smoke that comes out the breather or oil blowing out the breather or on top of the pcv hose/s. The rings on my car are mostly toast but I still have over 120psi compression on each. The rule is 90 as mentioned above. Below 90 its hard to ignite.
Well, I just set a new personal record for longest distance driven in a day. 1000ish miles, 16ish hours. I think the brakes mostly fixed themselves I left the park brake on for a while and got it nice and warmed up the new tires work great for haulin ass through windy snowy colorado roads it just about died a few times when I first switched to the rear tank, floored it while it sputtered back, methinks terribad truk jooce in the lines bench seat is mucho comfy fukken shifty shifty feel good front tank fuel gauge goes from 150% to 75%, then discos the fuck out and doesnt work rear fuel gauge doesnt work until it gets down to 20% some diesel pumps make it burp fuel out the fill neck and you gotta fill slow stereo improved greatly after I mounted a truck stop CB antenna (??) to make both speakers work, pound on dash CB radio still doesnt work it was -25 without wind chill this morning, didnt have too much trouble heating up my dad is absolutely awful at driving in a group, he lost me by miles at least 5 times, left me while taking a shit, and just about ran my ass into a semi in a turning lane my sister recorded me singing rainbow in the dark lost my voice lost a headlight 400 miles out lugs didnt come loose like my uncle said they would Oh and I bought a gallon travel mug this morning, filled it with coffee and those caffiene shots which is while Im still wired the fuck up now. Whenever I get out of the truck it feels like Im vibrating. that about sums it up. So tomorrow I begin making it mostly work right. So far on the list is Oil change send oil sample to blackstone oil filter coolant change w/ that anti-cavitation shite fuel filter change test all glow plugs with ohm meter new [I]extra bright[/I] headlight bulbs vacuum all the dust and rat shit out new battery terminals figure out the funky chinaman fuel gauges decide if I think the fuel pickups are eaten off or not, maybe replace them wash decide if I think speedo is accurate maybe fix CB, maybe take the CB out of the crown vic find/make headlight knob look at slide in campers Anyone else got suggestions for longevity of engine life things? this is the 3rd motor thats been in the truck, and got put in 2005. Originally came with 6.9 idi, has 7.3 idi now. [QUOTE=JesseR92;49397419]What are you gonna haul?[/QUOTE] Gonna find a reasonably nice pickup bed camper [QUOTE=DPKiller;49397542]shhhhhhhh dont force this idea into his head or anything but that diesel would be cool in his bus.[/QUOTE] nooooo muh sentimental value. Besides, I'd like the bus to be able to go at least 60mph [QUOTE=clutch2;49397794]This damn picture reminds me of the CIA guy scene from that baneposting nonsense, kind off. I know it's obscure, but ugh. Nice truck, though! Diesel is excellent.[/QUOTE] I dont see any visual resemblance but yeah I get that vibe too. "what happens if I switch tanks anywhere except downhill?" "It would be extremely painful"
That's a big truck for longevity of the engine I suggest warming it up before each drive by doing a massive skid on your neighbours driveway every time.
FUN FACT EVERYTHING IS FLOODED wooooo Here's a photo of downtown Lindale that has absolutely no rivers or anything and not even declared a low spot. [t]https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1571_10207890211831870_1521999397222493502_n.jpg?oh=b4e627e7edbf686648b9ee44771696cf&oe=57102D13[/t] SERJ AM I TOO LATE TO FILL JARS OF DIRT
[QUOTE=Gulen;49401774][URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcYjGHU4lEY"]Here you go, it's pretty simple[/URL][/QUOTE] thanks :)
[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;49402376]I can take apart my entire car understand what most of it is, but I don't know a lot about "modern" systems" so bear with me. My E36's heater works like shit. It takes quite a while to get to anything near a comfortable temperature, and it will absolutely not heat the air if the car is standing still, so we had to drive around half an hour today because we couldn't wait with the car standing still. [editline]28th December 2015[/editline] Is it likely that it's caused by air in the cooling system?[/QUOTE] Is your engine cold too, or is it just your heater?
[QUOTE=DPKiller;49404363]FUN FACT EVERYTHING IS FLOODED wooooo Here's a photo of downtown Lindale that has absolutely no rivers or anything and not even declared a low spot. [t]https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1571_10207890211831870_1521999397222493502_n.jpg?oh=b4e627e7edbf686648b9ee44771696cf&oe=57102D13[/t] SERJ AM I TOO LATE TO FILL JARS OF DIRT[/QUOTE] START PISSING ON PLANTS THE END IS NIGH
[QUOTE=Gulen;49404598]Is your engine cold too, or is it just your heater?[/QUOTE] No, the water gets up to running temperature after a few minutes of driving, and doesn't change. And I don't have an oil temp gauge.
Finally got my mechanical key [t]http://puu.sh/mbkng.jpg[/t] Now I can put on the cheap ebay emblem keychain! [t]http://puu.sh/mbknB.jpg[/t] ~originale~
just in case you forget you own a mercedes and don't see the emblem on the key
The metal key itself also has a Merc logo on it
[QUOTE=DPKiller;49404363]FUN FACT EVERYTHING IS FLOODED wooooo Here's a photo of downtown Lindale that has absolutely no rivers or anything and not even declared a low spot. [t]https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1571_10207890211831870_1521999397222493502_n.jpg?oh=b4e627e7edbf686648b9ee44771696cf&oe=57102D13[/t] SERJ AM I TOO LATE TO FILL JARS OF DIRT[/QUOTE] That is unfortunate. You may want to invest in some form of diving bell or trimiran. Perhaps think about growing gills. Or seek a mountain/ hill and collect the dry land there.
I got new headlights [t]http://richardpetrosino.com/upload/uploaded_images/5/IMG_3421.png[/t]
[QUOTE=Ldesu;49404992]Finally got my mechanical key [t]http://puu.sh/mbkng.jpg[/t] Now I can put on the cheap ebay emblem keychain! [t]http://puu.sh/mbknB.jpg[/t] ~originale~[/QUOTE] A little overboard don't ya think. Did you put one of the 90 MPH rated Christmas wreaths on the hood star? [video=youtube;1fqcC7j0gSA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fqcC7j0gSA[/video]
I could do this with pipe cleaners: [t]http://puu.sh/m801f.jpg[/t] [editline]28th December 2015[/editline] Also, overboard? It's a chain and the car's brand logo. How is that overboard in any way?
[QUOTE=Oscar Lima Echo;49404920]No, the water gets up to running temperature after a few minutes of driving, and doesn't change. And I don't have an oil temp gauge.[/QUOTE] Air in the cooling system. e30s, e36s, and e46s are notoriously hard to bleed due to the high pressure, low flow design unlike most cooling systems. The lack of a radiator cap makes bleeding difficult without a power bleeder (a wise investment if you work on a lot of BMW's). The air is trapped in your heater core. To fix the problem: - Let car sit overnight - Jack up the front end of the car as high as safely possible (if you can't do this, find a very steep driveway) - Open the overflow tank cap - Remove the plastic bleeder screw near the cap (it may be located on the thermostat housing; you can also get away with leaving it on by a thread, but I prefer to remove it as the bubbles are easier to see) - Turn the accessory switch to "On", and turn the heater all the way up to full heat/full fan - Fill up the overflow tank with fresh coolant/distilled water - Fire up the car - As the car begins to warm up, the thermostat should open, and the level in the tank should drop as coolant is sucked into the motor - Continue topping up the coolant as it depletes - Have a friend sit inside the car and rev the motor up to 4k and hold it there for 60 seconds - During this time a substantial amount of bubbles should be escaping from the bleeder hole; this will get messy, so be prepared with towels and a drip tray under the car - Repeat this process until no more bubbles can be seen - Reinstall the bleeder screw - Top off the overflow tank - Reinstall the overflow tank cap - Take the car for a test drive By now the heater should be blowing hot air. Oh, and don't be surprised if it doesn't work the first time. If the procedure fails, repeat the process again when the car is cold. If at any time the temp gauge passes the 12 o' clock mark, immediately shut off the car and wait a few hours for it to cool down before trying again. BMW's are very sensitive to overheating, and even one overheat can cause a headgasket failure.
So many people on YouTube, "The Hellcat would be awesome if it didn't weigh so much. etc etc" I don't think they understand how power to weight ratio effects the car. The 6.4L is fast, it makes around 500HP, the 6.2 SC is 707+HP. Like, I don't care what you put a 700HP engine in, if it's over 2 tons, it will make it perfectly fine to drive. One guy was saying, "Too bad Dodge doesn't sell it as a crate motor so we can stick in Miatas" -- What the actual fuck. If you want a vehicle that's sole purpose is to destroy tires, go ahead. It'd be cool to see 600 foot pounds twist the car in half. It makes like 300ft/lbs at slightly above idle.
On neat, I can stick a power stroke oil filter on my truck for a whole extra quart of oil capacity.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;49405493]So many people on YouTube, "The Hellcat would be awesome if it didn't weigh so much. etc etc" I don't think they understand how power to weight ratio effects the car. The 6.4L is fast, it makes around 500HP, the 6.2 SC is 707+HP. Like, I don't care what you put a 700HP engine in, if it's over 2 tons, it will make it perfectly fine to drive. One guy was saying, "Too bad Dodge doesn't sell it as a crate motor so we can stick in Miatas" -- What the actual fuck. If you want a vehicle that's sole purpose is to destroy tires, go ahead. It'd be cool to see 600 foot pounds twist the car in half. It makes like 300ft/lbs at slightly above idle.[/QUOTE] needs all that power to haul its fatass around it's almost two thousand kilograms, it's about the weight of an average american under high end luxury cars. big engine doesnt solve pigfat weight anywhere except a straight line edit: was looking at the older generation, the new one is a hair under 2100kg
I'll bleed the cooling system on Wednesday, and put in a cabin heater that I can leave on while at work. In other news my steering was fucked up today, the wheel was shaking like mad at highway speeds. All I could think about was how much work I had to do and what car I had to borrow in the meantime. Turns out it was just ice on the inside of the wheels from doing donuts in deep snow :v:
[QUOTE=Lerlth;49405493]So many people on YouTube, "The Hellcat would be awesome if it didn't weigh so much. etc etc" I don't think they understand how power to weight ratio effects the car. The 6.4L is fast, it makes around 500HP, the 6.2 SC is 707+HP. Like, I don't care what you put a 700HP engine in, if it's over 2 tons, it will make it perfectly fine to drive. One guy was saying, "Too bad Dodge doesn't sell it as a crate motor so we can stick in Miatas" -- What the actual fuck. If you want a vehicle that's sole purpose is to destroy tires, go ahead. It'd be cool to see 600 foot pounds twist the car in half. It makes like 300ft/lbs at slightly above idle.[/QUOTE] I don't think you understand that there's corners out there, all that mass will be hard to control in a corner no matter how many horsepower and torques your engine produces.
What I mean is that they call it a bad car because of that. It's not a bad car, it's just what it is. It's a hunk of metal with a ton of power, like in the olden days. Like, a Charger with the 2.7L is a piece of shit because it was huge, no power, horrible gas mileage, and overpriced for what it was. While the Hellcat has enough power, okay mileage if you stay out of it, and is relatively cheap for the fun. I'm not saying an MX5 isn't fun, but the Challenger isn't an MX5, isn't supposed to be. It's a street legal drag car that was a big F U to light weight cars that do the same job.
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