• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
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[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;49415894]90s reverse camera basically means it'll look shit in a dimly lit area and have the resolution of an old nokia phone[/QUOTE] But you can hit the tree with the camera and it won't break, making its Nokia Brethren proud!
Long time no see chilluns. Black jeep still running strong; just got a nice (read:bad) fuel tank leak today but im going to replace the tank/pump soon. I was hoping one of you might see this post soon enough to link me to that one local library page that had all the all-data stuff on it? trying to help a friend fix the stereo in his Z.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;49416324]Long time no see chilluns. Black jeep still running strong; just got a nice (read:bad) fuel tank leak today but im going to replace the tank/pump soon. I was hoping one of you might see this post soon enough to link me to that one local library page that had all the all-data stuff on it? trying to help a friend fix the stereo in his Z.[/QUOTE] Link is dead IIRC the user's card got voided
Now I wish i had clutch on steam or facebook actually; he's my car audio sensei ;_; Since I'm bored (researching while hes out running an errand in the car) Hows everyone been anyway, i kinda fell off from FP after a vacation since the 500 new posts looked forboding :^( Me personally I'm going to be fixing up that EG i have (finally own it) and selling it, buddies dad is going to help me do a cheap cost but high quality paint job on it and im going to re-gasket everything. Planning on going to college so my red truck is sadly going to be sitting until probably 2020 but whatever, I'll be the fella laughing when i have a sexy ass Comanche Chief in my driveway. [editline]29th December 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=Code3Response;49416393]Link is dead IIRC the user's card got voided[/QUOTE] well shit. Anyone know of a good resource for general car audio troubleshooting? his speakers dont work intermittently in the cold but it seems the relay/fuses are all good so it seems time to go in with the multimeter; just don't know what resistance/voltage im looking for anywhere. (car is a 94 300zx with the bose package) Nice avatar by the way, ethan is a god. [editline]29th December 2015[/editline] Looks like i may have gotten a bit ahead of myself lol. I forgot theres a label on the bottom of the headunit with a lil diagram of the connector wiring; not sure how much it'll tell me. just figured i'd toss in i remembered that just now.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;49416324] I was hoping one of you might see this post soon enough to link me to that one local library page that had all the all-data stuff on it? trying to help a friend fix the stereo in his Z.[/QUOTE] [url]https://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1446238&p=46921798&viewfull=1#post46921798[/url] Link works for me so idk
[QUOTE=090901;49417172][url]https://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1446238&p=46921798&viewfull=1#post46921798[/url] Link works for me so idk[/QUOTE] doesnt work for me, can you archive it?
Well shet I got everything done on the truck. Alternator, coolant, filters, oil, headlights, glow plugs, ect Took it for a test drive up to my friend's house about 15 mins away. I stalled it in first, and it wouldnt start. The truck had been running for at least 30 mins, and I measured the batteries at 14.2v before I left, so what Im probably thinking is that the batteries just dont have enough capacity anymore and while it cranks and cranks, its not cranking fast enough (rule is if you see individual fan blades while cranking its not fast enough). We were in the progress of crashing another friends bonfire to look at his pickup bed camper, so I got two chevy trucks pulled up and hooked them both up with jumper cables to both my batteries, and had them both revving up, and the big red bastard still didnt start. I think (and hope) it was just not cranking fast enough because both the chevys had those useless tiny side-nipple batteries. I really really hope thats the problem. We tried bump starting it by pulling it with another truck, but the streets had snow on them and the wheels just skid. Anyways, we pushed it onto the side of the street and I got a ride home. Im gonna buy two batteries tomorrow and leave work early to get up there before dark to change them. New batteries come charged, right? Is there anything else it could be? it was running just prior to stalling, so it cant be air in the fuel lines, right? Another damn 300$ dumped into this thing.
Yes new batteries come charged. I'd charge your dead one current and measure it again. If its still way below the 12v after being on the charger then you know its a bad battery. I went through this month and a half ago with the Blazer. Damn thing eats batteries.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;49417576]Well shet I got everything done on the truck. Alternator, coolant, filters, oil, headlights, glow plugs, ect Took it for a test drive up to my friend's house about 15 mins away. I stalled it in first, and it wouldnt start. The truck had been running for at least 30 mins, and I measured the batteries at 14.2v before I left, so what Im probably thinking is that the batteries just dont have enough capacity anymore and while it cranks and cranks, its not cranking fast enough (rule is if you see individual fan blades while cranking its not fast enough). We were in the progress of crashing another friends bonfire to look at his pickup bed camper, so I got two chevy trucks pulled up and hooked them both up with jumper cables to both my batteries, and had them both revving up, and the big red bastard still didnt start. I think (and hope) it was just not cranking fast enough because both the chevys had those useless tiny side-nipple batteries. I really really hope thats the problem. We tried bump starting it by pulling it with another truck, but the streets had snow on them and the wheels just skid. Anyways, we pushed it onto the side of the street and I got a ride home. Im gonna buy two batteries tomorrow and leave work early to get up there before dark to change them. New batteries come charged, right? Is there anything else it could be? it was running just prior to stalling, so it cant be air in the fuel lines, right? Another damn 300$ dumped into this thing.[/QUOTE] If not the batteries then possibly the starter, you should see 200RPM at least on the tach when cranking. I would agree it shouldn't be air in the fuel lines if the truck was running for 30 minutes and was stalled by you. Some guys get stranded until their hot truck cools down, including their starter, since a hot starter will crank slower than a cold one. Maybe it will just start tomorrow no problem. If you have no luck theres other useful information like whether any smoke leaves the exhaust while cranking. That would at least tell us whether its a fuel delivery or compression problem.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;49417576]Well shet[/QUOTE] what are your batteries at now? Check for loose and dirty connections I'd say before buying new batts.
[QUOTE=Del91;49413341]Each spark plug was shipped from Japan because jdm[/QUOTE] For that price they probably bought first class ticket for each of the plugs instead of posting it.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;49416393]Link is dead IIRC the user's card got voided[/QUOTE] I made a post along time ago with my UPC barcode. aka make a account and say you live in that city/state. It's pretty easy. [editline]30th December 2015[/editline] 24752000072601 [editline]30th December 2015[/editline] [url]http://www.powerlibrary.org/[/url] > find > e resorce > auto repair *copy pasta number* > follow links to repair guilds > firmly shove rachet up ass
[media]https://imgur.com/a/IwDWv[/media] Finally got around to change the front bumper on my Volvo with a brand new one, replaced the rear bumper and headlights with brand new ones a few months ago too. The old bumper was painted by the previous owner and the paint job was pretty shit, it also had holes drilled in it that was used for the extra lights.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/M6oTJRk.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/CcsN27M.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/oC5ImTl.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Qcpi6hJ.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/U31a4hx.jpg[/IMG] My heads are back! Cleeeaan.
Fuck I love how clean heads look when planed properly, clean enough to eat off of. [sp]dont do dis, oil = cancers[/sp]
I probably should have ordered double springs then had them reassemble the heads, but oh well. [IMG]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/crn-144832-16_w.jpg[/IMG] vs. [t]http://ebayimages.nexpart.com/images/3502899_551b34ff65ed0.JPG[/t]
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;49418430]what are your batteries at now? Check for loose and dirty connections I'd say before buying new batts.[/QUOTE] Terminals are clean and tight. I picked up two batteries this morning because even if they arent the main problem, theyre piss old batteroes anyways.
[QUOTE=DaMoggen;49419351] Finally got around to change the front bumper on my Volvo with a brand new one, replaced the rear bumper and headlights with brand new ones a few months ago too. The old bumper was painted by the previous owner and the paint job was pretty shit, it also had holes drilled in it that was used for the extra lights.[/QUOTE] Looks great man. I really need to grab a new front bumper for the Civic, spray the rear then spray all the trim pieces to match someday.
[QUOTE=SilentOpp;49411104]You'll never get all the coolant out of the block. The solution is to buy a bottle of coolant flush and some distilled water. Since you don't know what was in there originally I wouldn't just refill the system. Add the flush, fill it with the distilled water, run it for 30 minutes or a few miles once it gets up to temperature. It won't take long for the flush to go through the system. Then drain and repeat as you see necessary(it'll honestly probably never come out clean, but you should be able to get the soapy flush out). I personally would do a good coolant flush on that engine because of the cavitation problems, the old IDI engines are notorious for them, and who knows when that coolant was last replaced. You can also get test strips to check the status of the coolant for next to nothing online. If it needs refreshing they sell cooling system additives to refresh the coolant rather than replacing it. I'm sure you've probably researched the hell out of the truck, but if you haven't read up on IDI cooling system cavitation this page has a lot of good info: [URL]http://dieselhub.com/maintenance/cavitation.html[/URL] Highly recommend getting any of the coolants listed in that link. I have friends who also run Cat Red coolant but I've only heard that recommendation word of mouth. Pretty much any Extended Life coolant or bottles marked with SCA/DCA will suit the truck well. [B]EDIT: Just read in a previous post you picked up SCA/DCA coolant. Nevermind the rest of that![/B][/QUOTE] I wholeheartedly disagree. The trick is to remove the block drain plug, stick a hose into the thermostat inlet, and let 'er rip. It'll push all the coolant out the other end. After that I just run a gallon or two of distilled water to clean out the tap water, and you're good to go.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;49421484]Looks great man. I really need to grab a new front bumper for the Civic, spray the rear then spray all the trim pieces to match someday.[/QUOTE] There are some trim pieces i need to get replaced still, I also have some door handles from a Volvo 960 that i need to get painted.
I got the truck back home! Turns out the old batteries were fine, I had forgot to check the rpms while cranking and is was spinning at 500 with them. So I put the new batteries in anyways, cranked, bled the valve on the filer, cranked, shot the shit with the dude's dad, what also owns an 80s ford IDI deisel, bled the injectors, cranked, and it felt like one cylinder was firing but it wouldnt quite catch. So, as a last resort I gave it a lil 2 second shot of ether and it drunkenly stumbled to life. I think the problem was that last time I filled the tank, I half forgot to add additive, and half assumed BP was selling winter blend. I added some cold juice and drove it for a while, and Ill start it tomorrow morning to verify that as the problem. So now I have 2 spare bigass 820CCA spare batteries. [QUOTE=Aetna;49421907]I wholeheartedly disagree. The trick is to remove the block drain plug, stick a hose into the thermostat inlet, and let 'er rip. It'll push all the coolant out the other end. After that I just run a gallon or two of distilled water to clean out the tap water, and you're good to go.[/QUOTE] when the block was remanufactued then replaced the 1/4" drive inny plugs with 10mm square outy plugs, so I had nothing to get them out with, and one of them was behind the starter, and the top starter bolt was behind the solenoid. So I saved myself the busted knuckles and profanities and filled it with distilled water before running the truck long enough to open the thermostat twice, before putting new 50/50 in.
Ah diesels.. so cool, but so alien to us gasoline dips. Today I had the joy of changing the serpentine belt on my friend's car in Kohl's parking lot. It was cold as a witch's tit and between warm up breaks and pissing around with minimal tools it took 2 hours. I don't care to do that again any time soon.
anything with valves is alien to me, the only way I know to make power with a 4 stroke is to cram more air into it. 2 strokes though, I can make a 2 stroke fucking scream
[QUOTE=clutch2;49424073]Ah diesels.. so cool, but so alien to us gasoline dips. Today I had the joy of changing the serpentine belt on my friend's car in Kohl's parking lot. It was cold as a witch's tit and between warm up breaks and pissing around with minimal tools it took 2 hours. I don't care to do that again any time soon.[/QUOTE] was it one of those cars where you had to take off the motor mount to change the belt?
No. Thank God. Who designed that kind of misguided punishment anyway? My biggest issue was with the tools at hand. We rented the belt tool from Autozone since mine was 30 minutes away at my house.. but it was so worn out it had a good 45* of play in it before it would actually start to move the tensioner. So I wrestled with the belt with cold fingers for like 15 minutes, took a break, pulled off the wheel liner then wrestled a bit more to get it into position with only 1 pulley left. Took a break. Then we tried getting the belt on with just the tensioner tool, failed. The issue was I only had about a 90* arc I could move the tensioner tool, and 45* of that was slop. So 45* on the tensioner was nowhere near enough to slip the belt on the last pulley. Then I got mad and drove over to BestBuy (where I work) and got a couple tools that I thought might be handy from my toolbox there.. a rather, wrenches, etc. None of that crap was any help, I couldn't get the ratchet over the tensioner because the frame was in the way. I got a tiny ratchet onto it, then tried with all my might to make that little dink move.. but I didn't have the leverage. So I took another break. Then I pulled some bolts out of a couple brackets to move some misc A/C lines out of the way and get another few degrees with the big tensioner tool. We fooled around with that as I tried my damndest to force the belt on 'just a little more!!!' Finally I noticed that as I was forcing the belt on, I could take pressure off the tensioner tool and it wouldn't go back to 'normal' right off the bat.. I could kind of wedge the belt where it was and keep tension on it. Then I got a devious plan. I turned the tensioner as far as I could and stuffed a ratchet into the gap between the frame and the pulley I had to get the belt onto. This wedged the belt 'halfway' onto the pulley. After a few tries I was able to take the tensioner tool off without the tensioner springing back, then reposition it to take another bite and pull it further, this taking more tension off the belt. Once I got that final bite it was what I needed to slip that cock onto the pulley. Then there was one pulley that slipped a few teeth off in the process.. but before we let the tensioner tool go I got that one back on and breathed a sigh of relief. Jumpstart the car, belt is still on. Toes are barely still on. Good to go. That's my story. Once I got home I had to change my own car's oil, too. :v:
[QUOTE=butre;49424324]anything with valves is alien to me, the only way I know to make power with a 4 stroke is to cram more air into it. 2 strokes though, I can make a 2 stroke fucking scream[/QUOTE] what ways can I cheaply build the fuck out of my 36cc weed eater motor? I sort of deserted the project of mounting it to my bicycle, but I have almost all the pieces I need.
Yeah, I'm curious about 2 strokes. I have no idea how to make power in them. Four strokes make sense. More and air and fuel = More power. That's baseline.
To jump on the 2-stroke bandwagon, I plopped together a CAD design for a simple angle-iron go-kart frame to be powered by a Harbor Freight horizontal Predator engines a few months ago but never started the project. Will the cheap 3HP jobbie be able to trundle my skinny ass about at like 15-20mph? It'd be a direct drive open diff, no transmission.
Electricians, will this work? [t]http://i.imgur.com/eDkfOY9.jpg[/t]
those leds will not work
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