[QUOTE=Grenadiac;48553254]What shitty Duster had 90 hp from the factory? Was it not just intentionally misreported to get around regulations?[/QUOTE]
1972 slant 6
8.4 to 1
100hp @ 4400
160ft/lbs @ 2400
I figure 90hp since it has a lazy cylinder and its 43 years old
Right right jessie, I've been slammed with work and other projects, I'll see to it I PM you some tonight
[QUOTE=Aetna;48553179]Say what? My buddy is at 45k in his BRZ with no issues, and he's running straight ethanol with a tune (extra 30whp). And it's not the car's fault that you attempted to drain the oil immediately after turning it off, hot oil is hot oil. What did you expect?
It's an extremely competent car. Both of us were a little underwhelmed when he purchased it, but after an aggressive alignment, wheels and tires, and some lowering springs, we were amazed at what it was capable of. You can sit here and argue all day about having to modify the car to make it feel worthwhile to you, but I don't know many cars in its price range that come close to its performance stock. His 3 1st place wins at the autox speak for itself.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/qebVj55.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
And just because I know he's going to post this link:
[url]http://vtecf.tw/fr-s/first-year-issues/[/url]
Only reported issue my bud has had is a rattling decklid.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;48553306]1972 slant 6
8.4 to 1
100hp @ 4400
160ft/lbs @ 2400
I figure 90hp since it has a lazy cylinder and its 43 years old
Right right jessie, I've been slammed with work and other projects, I'll see to it I PM you some tonight[/QUOTE]
That's absolutely terrible I can't believe they sold any
I'm surprised anyone managed to get them off the lot after buying them. :v:
I cant even hear the car run, and getting up to speed with traffic is dangerous. The only redeeming trait is the car only weighs 3000lbs so that helps.
That things going to scream with a big block.
I've never thought about getting a vehicle appraised. The state claims my Detroit is worth $1000, fair for the shape it's in now, but restored Detroits are anywhere from $6000-10,000.
[QUOTE=Aetna;48553179]Say what? My buddy is at 45k in his BRZ with no issues, and he's running straight ethanol with a tune (extra 30whp). And it's not the car's fault that you attempted to drain the oil immediately after turning it off, hot oil is hot oil. What did you expect?
It's an extremely competent car. Both of us were a little underwhelmed when he purchased it, but after an aggressive alignment, wheels and tires, and some lowering springs, we were amazed at what it was capable of. You can sit here and argue all day about having to modify the car to make it feel worthwhile to you, but I don't know many cars in its price range that come close to its performance stock. His 3 1st place wins at the autox speak for itself.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/qebVj55.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
The hot oil wasn't the problem and managing to screw up an oil change isn't a problem it's just kind of scary to me that all these manufacturers are switching to a piss thin oil without even changing spec in a motor that was designed in the past for totally different weights to squeeze out .3mpg. Although it's likely this newly designed motor is built for it. I've never had issues with doing an oil change on a hot car but I sure as hell didn't expect 6 quarts to drain within like 15 seconds and completely overflow my chambered drain pan uncontrollably.
It's not so much mechanical problems as I feel it's more fit and finish and design choices. Everything inside the car rattles, I'm not a fan of the high window line and low visibility. I think I just don't like the car/new cars for the most part.
I'm not sure if you've paid attention lately to the price of a new BRZ but MSRP on the local ones here is literally upto 32k. I don't have any issues with needing to modify the car but I'm extremely disappointed with how it was setup from the factory which really does leave so much to be desired as you said. Just putting RFP1's and real tires on it made it an entirely different car.
[QUOTE=Aetna;48553373]And just because I know he's going to post this link:
[url]http://vtecf.tw/fr-s/first-year-issues/[/url]
Only reported issue my bud has had is a rattling decklid.[/QUOTE]
Hilariously I've never seen that, I honestly didn't know these cars had those nightmare lists like the new WRX's and other Subarus do. It seems like a tune is basically a requirement on these cars which is pretty pitiful as he has a few of those issues outside of any sort of serious defect or mechanical issue. He came from an E36 M3 which I guess set the bar too high for a brand new car or something, IDK.
I think these cars will be a great buy when they're around 7k which should probably be in 5 years at the rate it's going. I think that if you put a good bit into one and used it as a weekend/track car or something only it would be a really damn good buy. Maybe his sole problem with it is that it's his daily and they don't make very good dailies. He's struggling to get 18k out of it and the highest offer in the last month he's got is 14k, which is hilarious with a MSRP of a 2 year newer model of 30k.
One of the dudes on the NSX forum I browse posted this... talk about a garage to aspire to :O
[img]http://www.apexlogik.net/ttnet/update2015/51.jpg[/img]
Has anyone here built a kit car? My dad wants to get either a Factory Five hot rod or a Caterham Seven 260. The FF is undoubtedly cooler and easy mounting for a variety of stupid cheap V8's, or even a Coyote. The Seven would make a far better track day car but not so great for cruising. Price would be somewhat cheaper for the Hot Rod. The Catetham probably would be easier to build from being smaller, not to mention the engine would be lighter. Anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?
I'd go with the FF if you want to turn heads and cruise like a bad motherfucker.
a caterham will turn heads too, especially in the US.
[editline]28th August 2015[/editline]
caterhams are just generally good cars, and the more displacement they have the more reliable they are
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;48553254]What shitty Duster had 90 hp from the factory? Was it not just intentionally misreported to get around regulations?[/QUOTE]
Thats what the stock 225 puts to the wheels if your lucky. The high output super six was only available in 1978 and 1979 in the aspen and volare, never in a duster. Its also not shitty genadiac. Yhe slant six came in pretty much every car dodge put out, including the charger. If you wanted 20mpg after the embargo, you got a slant. It also caused things like the feather duster and dart light, which had aluminum body components and super choked carbs netting 30mpg.
You also gotta understand mustang sally is used to driving big blocks, diesels, etc and hes taking the easy way out. The slant has a lot of potential. A client whos boat were working on (who has 4 1970 mint roadrunners, a 1965 300 with 383, 1970 barracuda, 2 hellcat challengers, 3 convertible GTOs and a myriad of other cars) got a slant six 1964 dart convertible, and paid an offenhauser modifier $15,000 to build the motor. It is an n/a slant pushing 425hp at the crank off a double weber setup, and sounds so much more horrifying than a lopey big block.
You gotta think about the interest level. Lots of people on here get tired of the 350 swap. I go to car shows and thats all I see. Yes its an intelligent easy to deal with solution but its not interesting. Every time I take my car to a car show I stand in front of the hood and dont quit talking because people wanna know what yhe hell is wrong with me and why is there a turbo on this slant.... it draws more of a crowd than a big block dart. Unless a mopar purist comes by... they dont like it. Thats fine though.
Also dont you wanna evebtually tell someone whos car you just smoked at the strip was by a slant six?
Serj can you post pictures of the turbine inspired center console from the orange Dart again please?
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48558060]Serj can you post pictures of the turbine inspired center console from the orange Dart again please?[/QUOTE]
Hang on one sec...
[IMG]https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11885186_10204913647057346_6498413466307752985_n.jpg?oh=a4804f616ef26a722e825ff87332ed83&oe=5637C259[/IMG]
[IMG]https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11940699_10204913647497357_1418141941206456200_n.jpg?oh=02fc6a1d01bc3b1be14d7ecd8aee09a2&oe=56360C33[/IMG]
We bought the bus today and drove it to my friends farm in the dark, pouring rain, no headlights, shot battery, no wipers. We had another friend driving behind with flashers and my sister driving ahead with flashers. We had a nice stranger jump start us at the gas station, then twice the negative terminal fell off the battery and killed it, so we jumped it again, and the two speed rear end is pretty shot. We grinded on it for a few minutes trying to hit high gear but in the end we gave up and drove there in low at 40mph. Once we pulled it in the shed we got the generator running, but only had one good spare battery, so we could only have it hooked up to the APU or 12v RV power at a time. After I got the spare battery and hooked it into 12v RV, I discovered the 12 RV power is linked to the 12 bus power, so in theory, if we get enough batteries to hook everything up, we can use the APU to charge both the RV power and bus battery, in addition the alternator should do the same. Im gonna get some deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries in series for the RV power. Didn't get around to testing the fridge, toilet, or 110v power, but the furnace, stove, oven, water heater, fresh water tank, water pump, sink, shower, and most of the lights worked right off the bat. The sink and shower puked out a bunch of rusty water, so Im going to treat it it and flush a few times before using it. We got most of it cleaned out, and the motor seems to be running better after its workout. The transmission leak may have fixed itself too.
All in all, went better than I expected.
EDIT
Oh, and Serj, or anyone who knows anything about old 2 speed rear ends, are you supposed to hit the switch to preload it, then let off the throttle to shift it, or let off the throttle first and let it coast in?
Jeez ya do all this work to your car.. and just when you think it's done you gotta roll the fenders.
Couple days ago was struts and springs, then alignment. Yesterday was undercoating day with Herculiner (which is in my hair and basically all over every other part of my being) followed by valve cover gasket. Today it got swaybar links.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234052/82715%20001_zpsboyvb4im.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234052/82715%20001_zpsboyvb4im.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234052/82715%20002_zpsgtparzpv.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234052/82715%20002_zpsgtparzpv.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Cut out a bit of rot, POR15'd all the good metal, POR15'd a piece of metal to patch, then used seam sealer to stick it on. Finish that all off with bedliner
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234052/82715%20003_zpsv1rqldns.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234052/82715%20003_zpsv1rqldns.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
As it sits now. It's on Tein lowering springs, instead of ebay coilover (a coil broke after 3 years, so it was time)
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234052/82715%20021_zpsf273kof6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234052/82715%20021_zpsf273kof6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Ordered a fender roller.. since I should probably own one anywho.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/20150417_113103_zpsblsvwlp1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/20150417_113103_zpsblsvwlp1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Here it is. Made of plywood, mahogany, ABS pipe, an old T shirt, and two broken electric radiator fans and some scrap aluminum.
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/20150416_182913_zpsboi5r4jn.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/20150416_182913_zpsboi5r4jn.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/20150419_152159_zpsx3lpveol.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/20150419_152159_zpsx3lpveol.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/20150419_214154_zpssneszg2a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/20150419_214154_zpssneszg2a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/20150420_165210_zpszejmkfpw.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/20150420_165210_zpszejmkfpw.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/20150420_165547_zpsbzbkvzuu.jpg.html][IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/20150420_165547_zpsbzbkvzuu.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I'm not building the car to be different, I want something fun and fast and I'm using tried and true ways to get there. If I wanted it to be different then I'd build a 318 poly with a single turbo, you never see those engines at all!
The $15000 for 425hp (N/A of course) example is exactly what turned me away from my initial idea of turboing the slant (which I still appreciate the wealth of info you gave me). The engine was never intended to go fast, and it takes a lot of work to get fast. If there was an aftermarket head that didnt flow like ass, then I'd consider it. Sure its easy to shove a heap of boost to, but after reading into the blow and draw through set up EFI is the only way that i'd reach where I'd want to go, and thats a mess I'd rather not figure out.
For 425hp all I gotta do is shove on headers, a 4 barrel intake, and a very mild step up cam, a gnarlier solid roller would net and easy 500hp 440, all for peanuts.
I'll be into this swap for lets say $4000, thats wilwood brakes, mild overhauled 440, RMVB 727, selling my old rallyes and going to steelies, 8 3/4 swap, everything bolted and wired in, done properly.
Dart... mustang sally. Quit with tbe dusters.what was up with the red one?
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48557684]Has anyone here built a kit car? My dad wants to get either a Factory Five hot rod or a Caterham Seven 260. The FF is undoubtedly cooler and easy mounting for a variety of stupid cheap V8's, or even a Coyote. The Seven would make a far better track day car but not so great for cruising. Price would be somewhat cheaper for the Hot Rod. The Catetham probably would be easier to build from being smaller, not to mention the engine would be lighter. Anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?[/QUOTE]
Yea 7 kits are very very well documented and easy as balls to make. There's loads online about how to setup a 7 kit and get the best out of it
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48558270]
[IMG]https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11940699_10204913647497357_1418141941206456200_n.j pg?oh=02fc6a1d01bc3b1be14d7ecd8aee09a2&oe=56360C33[/IMG]
[/QUOTE]
Every time I see that bus
[video=youtube;6Zbi0XmGtMw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zbi0XmGtMw[/video]
[QUOTE=Serj22;48557920]Thats what the stock 225 puts to the wheels if your lucky. The high output super six was only available in 1978 and 1979 in the aspen and volare, never in a duster. Its also not shitty genadiac. Yhe slant six came in pretty much every car dodge put out, including the charger. If you wanted 20mpg after the embargo, you got a slant. It also caused things like the feather duster and dart light, which had aluminum body components and super choked carbs netting 30mpg.
You also gotta understand mustang sally is used to driving big blocks, diesels, etc and hes taking the easy way out. The slant has a lot of potential. A client whos boat were working on (who has 4 1970 mint roadrunners, a 1965 300 with 383, 1970 barracuda, 2 hellcat challengers, 3 convertible GTOs and a myriad of other cars) got a slant six 1964 dart convertible, and paid an offenhauser modifier $15,000 to build the motor. It is an n/a slant pushing 425hp at the crank off a double weber setup, and sounds so much more horrifying than a lopey big block.
You gotta think about the interest level. Lots of people on here get tired of the 350 swap. I go to car shows and thats all I see. Yes its an intelligent easy to deal with solution but its not interesting. Every time I take my car to a car show I stand in front of the hood and dont quit talking because people wanna know what yhe hell is wrong with me and why is there a turbo on this slant.... it draws more of a crowd than a big block dart. Unless a mopar purist comes by... they dont like it. Thats fine though.
Also dont you wanna evebtually tell someone whos car you just smoked at the strip was by a slant six?[/QUOTE]
I'm tired of 350 swaps too - I'm just surprised that 90-100hp was acceptable in a car of the late 60s considering some cars had 300+ in the 50s.
Same reason I'm putting a torquey V6 in my Daytona. Every one was saying, "Why not just put a turbo on the 4cyl or swap it?", because everyone and their uncle has a turbo on their Daytona. I want something different. Besides, at the added weight of maybe 20-30 pounds, I can make more power than the turbo ones N/A (unless highly modified). With a blower on it? Bye bye turbo cars.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;48559166]Every time I see that bus
[video=youtube;6Zbi0XmGtMw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zbi0XmGtMw[/video][/QUOTE]
On my fuck how could I not think of that.
It's perfect.
We've got a few ideas on how to paint it so far, one idea is light blue with unicorns, one is a rusty jeepers creepers truck look, one is a giant American flag, one is mystery machine, ect. it used to be blue and white with gold stars, and that didn't look all too bad.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;48559527]I'm tired of 350 swaps too - I'm just surprised that 90-100hp was acceptable in a car of the late 60s considering some cars had 300+ in the 50s.[/QUOTE]
It was acceptable because it worked better than the flathead six chrysler was getting rid of. The other thing, is that it was the most powerful inline 6 of the major car companies at the time. So much so that it trashed them all in an inline 6 spec Nascar race. They entered 7 valiants with hyper packed slants. The hyper pack was a long intake manifold run, different cam, and long tube headers. The valiants finished 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 and every other car company was behind that.
Sometimes it's acceptable to drive a slower car, think of cars like the Hudson Hornet, which dominated the nascar circuit in the early 50s, with a flat-head 6... and TRASHED cars with V8s.
But the slant did something else - it allowed cars to be styled differently. All the cars that came before had those really tall hoods, and that was to fit an inline 6 for a base option. The v8's sat lower in general, but the inlines required a higher hood. With the engine tilted 30 degrees, it allowed a lower hood profile. BMW still uses this exact same concept, as well as a few other companies.
The slant six was simple to deal with - all electronics on one side, intake exhaust carb, on the other, it was all grouped together and easy to work on, and way more "powerful" than a flathead.
[video=youtube;3ZvM_aoq8OI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZvM_aoq8OI[/video]
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;48559527]I'm tired of 350 swaps too - I'm just surprised that 90-100hp was acceptable in a car of the late 60s considering some cars had 300+ in the 50s.[/QUOTE]
Not every car was a performance special in the 50s/60s.
[url]http://www.standvirtual.com/carros/anuncios/Toyota/MR2/2.0-T-Bar/P8138871/[/url]
I hate the used car market in this country. From what I gather this car, with this engine and this mileage, would be something like $3K in the US. This is the cheapest MR2 I can find.
Most of them straddle the 10,000€ line, heck, I've seen one on sale for 20,000€. 20k for a 90's car that isn't even that rare just because it's "sporty", piss off.
Argh why do people in car washes think that it's okay to smear that weird greasy shiny bullshit all over the plastics when not asked to, now it looks like garbage and feels even worse
Any good ways to get rid of it without further ruining the interior?
[QUOTE=Serj22;48558530]Dart... mustang sally. Quit with tbe dusters.what was up with the red one?[/QUOTE]
Selling it to fund the big block swap, $1850! Only got the car for $400 so I cant complain.
[QUOTE=galimatias;48560474]Argh why do people in car washes think that it's okay to smear that weird greasy shiny bullshit all over the plastics when not asked to, now it looks like garbage and feels even worse
Any good ways to get rid of it without further ruining the interior?[/QUOTE]
Probably armor all. They put that in my car before I bought t and it with rubber floors the whole interior was slipperier than a porno slip n slide for ovr a year. The smell just faded out after 2 years.
Have fun.
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