• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
    5,004 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Xanadu;48571367]I test drove an '03 Saab 9-5 and have to say the manumatic steering wheel buttons are pretty lacking, but man, that push-button cup holder :v:[/QUOTE] I liked how unintrustive the dashboard was on it, it felt like the front area was very open compared to other cars I've been in.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;48570193]No, that's just the 2.5 liter engine, but it's across all the Subarus, not just the impreza as they all share the same engine[/QUOTE] It was the EJ25D that had headgasket issues, which was never even in the Impreza. The EJ251/253 had less common issues in the early years, though it was miniscule compared to the 25D issues. That being said, even the 25D usually went 150-200k+ miles without issues.
[url]http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5195771375.html[/url] Pleeeeease be there next week.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48570796]I love Z cars but honestly if I got to do it all over I would get a 240. Mine is fine and all but it's pretty damn slow and fat. As everyone says about the Z31, it lost is origins in an attempt to please a larger market. I like the digital dash, but if I could trade that for the straight 6 and shed a few hundred pounds, I wouldn't hesitate[/QUOTE] there was a japanese market Z31 that came with an RB20DET. there's absolutely nothing wrong with a vg30de though, but I'd rather have a vg30dett. I prefer the Z32 in general
[QUOTE=butre;48571579]there was a japanese market Z31 that came with an RB20DET. there's absolutely nothing wrong with a vg30de though, but I'd rather have a vg30dett. I prefer the Z32 in general[/QUOTE] I prefer XX.
Hey clutch(or anyone else who knows anything), I've got a MB Quart formula amp, fx1.600 is the model I think. Ive been meaning to swap out my sony xplod amp because it keeps going into protect if I turn up my bass at all or turn up my volume too high. As far as I can tell my subs together are rated 600wats max so this 600watt amp should be good right? As far as I can tell its a "decent budget amp" but its not a brand Ive ever heard of. Ive got a kicker dc12 box if it helps.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48570796]I love Z cars but honestly if I got to do it all over I would get a 240. Mine is fine and all but it's pretty damn slow and fat. As everyone says about the Z31, it lost is origins in an attempt to please a larger market. I like the digital dash, but if I could trade that for the straight 6 and shed a few hundred pounds, I wouldn't hesitate[/QUOTE] IDK, out of all the Z's this is still a good buy. Any Z before the Z33 is pretty tough to find in good condition. I'd say the car is still pretty good as a driver's car, their engines are as tough as hell compared to a Z32 and everything after the z31 was just as heavy. And we do own the car which was the fastest production car in japan for a period to. At the time, they were great.
[QUOTE=Del91;48572196]Hey clutch(or anyone else who knows anything), I've got a MB Quart formula amp, fx1.600 is the model I think. Ive been meaning to swap out my sony xplod amp because it keeps going into protect if I turn up my bass at all or turn up my volume too high. As far as I can tell my subs together are rated 600wats max so this 600watt amp should be good right? As far as I can tell its a "decent budget amp" but its not a brand Ive ever heard of. Ive got a kicker dc12 box if it helps.[/QUOTE] A good rule of thumb is to check the fuses on the amp and the actual rms rating oncthe subs. Go to the fuses. Voltsxamps=watts. If you have a 20amp fuse and the battery charhes at (14ish) its safe to assume it is limited to 280watts. Theres a lot of amps that say 1, 000watts 2, 000watts etc... and thats not even a maximum rating. I have no idea what they base it on. Higher quality stuff usually has honest ratings. My polk class d amp in the dash of the dart is only like 320watts and the pioneer I have in the back is 250 or something like that. I dont remember.
I decided to throw together this album of some of the neat cars I got to drive while working as a valet this summer. Hope you all enjoy. [URL="https://imgur.com/a/Upceb"]https://imgur.com/a/Upceb[/URL]
[QUOTE=Serj22;48572313]A good rule of thumb is to check the fuses on the amp and the actual rms rating oncthe subs. Go to the fuses. Voltsxamps=watts. If you have a 20amp fuse and the battery charhes at (14ish) its safe to assume it is limited to 280watts. Theres a lot of amps that say 1, 000watts 2, 000watts etc... and thats not even a maximum rating. I have no idea what they base it on. Higher quality stuff usually has honest ratings. My polk class d amp in the dash of the dart is only like 320watts and the pioneer I have in the back is 250 or something like that. I dont remember.[/QUOTE] Yep, 20 amp fuse under the hood. So the max I can push is 280 with a 600watt amp? That would scale up with a larger amp, right? [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] Huh so if I want to max my subs, ideally id need a 1200watt amp? [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] Rms/peak is 300/600
[QUOTE=Del91;48572374]Yep, 20 amp fuse under the hood. So the max I can push is 280 with a 600watt amp? That would scale up with a larger amp, right? [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] Huh so if I want to max my subs, ideally id need a 1200watt amp? [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] Rms/peak is 300/600[/QUOTE] No the fuse on the amplifier is what will tell you. The one under the hood isnt it. But I would think a 40-60amp fuse under the hood would be more common? And no you wouldnt need 1200, just an honest rating. That fuse on the big amp lead is a safety thing. I have personally forgotten to remove the fuse when I moved an amplifier one time. I took the power lead off and it hit the seat base and immediately welded itself to it and blew the fuse. Thats also a good reason not to attach an amplifier to the box with the subs. They tend to come disconnected and arc across carpet. Thats bad.
Ahhh the MB quart has two 25. And I could be misremembering and its a 50 under the hood. [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] About mounting the amp to the box...:v: I'm planning on getting a big slab of Velcro and sticking it to my seat back instead. I think the rattling is probably detrimental to the longevity of the amp. [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] I have c connectors clamped to the wires and bolted to the amp too.
I saw this on a tv commercial and immediately noticed this. Jump to 0:58 and watch the left. It's only for a brief second. [video=youtube;R_F-lVhSfx8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_F-lVhSfx8[/video]
That movie looks so cool. Johnny depp looks creepy as usual too. [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] And da dart
Johnny Depp is so good at being bad. I love him
[QUOTE=Del91;48572541]Ahhh the MB quart has two 25. And I could be misremembering and its a 50 under the hood. [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] About mounting the amp to the box...:v: I'm planning on getting a big slab of Velcro and sticking it to my seat back instead. I think the rattling is probably detrimental to the longevity of the amp. [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] I have c connectors clamped to the wires and bolted to the amp too.[/QUOTE] So with 2x 25amp fuses on your amp you'll be doing something along the lines of 50x14v = 700w at 100% efficiency, which the amp isn't. If it's a class D amp you can expect close, probably like 500-600w rms output. If it's a class AB it's like around 50-60% efficient, so like 350-400w rms output. If your subs are 300w rms they should be fine on there, assuming it's class D. Gotta make sure the wiring for them is correct (2 ohm load or higher if it's only 2 ohm stable, etc).
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48550615]Anyways, finally got my car parts today. Once again we play the badly made, wrong parts game again. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-26%2020.33.46.jpg[/t] Holy shit fuck you DNJ, you literally make the same gasket with two different part numbers but for the vtec motor with wider ports you actually manage to sell a smaller worse made gasket without the inlaid rubber seal for the coolant passage. I could have bought the gasket for my motor but I wanted one which matched the intake manifold and not the head, instead I got a even shittier gasket which is still wrong. I'm gonna get stuck paying 3x as much for a garbage felpro gasket at a local parts store.. Woo, I can buy Moog or Beck/Arnley parts or I can buy Chinese knock off brand and still get the wrong damn parts. I don't even know how you can fuck up parts so bad for a Civic. At least my intake manifold is fully assembled and all cleaned up.[/QUOTE] Got an OEM gasket from Honda, it was either $18.50 for Felpro garbage ebay exhaust gasket material or $20.25 for OEM Honda. However, I've only been made more confused on why these gaskets even exist. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-29%2015.02.31.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-29%2015.03.07.jpg[/t] The ports are laughably smaller on the vtec 1.6 spec parts store generic china gasket, here's where it goes funny though. I was assuming that the nonvtec and dpfi motors had smaller ports and that I was simply just sold a one size fits all gasket which for some reason is spec for the larger D16Z6 vtec heads. Nah... [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-29%2015.29.51.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-29%2015.31.57.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-29%2015.33.21.jpg[/t] Well that's funny, here it is on a stock manifold for my head, it's also too small. So I tried the OEM gasket on my two spare manifolds, there really isn't much difference... Awesome, I should have just ordered the $3.50 DNJ china special that I had got previously with a headgasket kit and was really great quality. Oh well. I took some pictures of doing my MPFI swap, my camera lens on my phone is all scratched up now and it's night time so not a single photo came out for shit. I have the engine harness, distributor and intake manifold out of the car. Tomorrow I'll clean up a bunch of stuff in the engine bay and prep everything to go in. I'm shooting for a running car again Monday at the latest and run a little trip up north a couple hours Tuesday to sell/buy parts.
[QUOTE=clutch2;48572968]So with 2x 25amp fuses on your amp you'll be doing something along the lines of 50x14v = 700w at 100% efficiency, which the amp isn't. If it's a class D amp you can expect close, probably like 500-600w rms output. If it's a class AB it's like around 50-60% efficient, so like 350-400w rms output. If your subs are 300w rms they should be fine on there, assuming it's class D. Gotta make sure the wiring for them is correct (2 ohm load or higher if it's only 2 ohm stable, etc).[/QUOTE] One of the few things I picked out of Google is that it is NOT class D, I think its AB [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] If it doesn't rain all day tomorrow(it will), I'll swap it in.
One thing I'm having a lot of fun with is having people draw advertisements - costs money - but it is a lot of fun. This is going to be a really really short cheesy series comic advertisement with product placement as far as the eye can see, and myself spouting out cheesy one liners like a tool. It's gonna be cool. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/curtiscr_zpskwwnmuzc.jpg[/IMG] You have to click to appreciate. It's a good drawing.
[QUOTE=Serj22;48573332]One thing I'm having a lot of fun with is having people draw advertisements - costs money - but it is a lot of fun. This is going to be a really really short cheesy series comic advertisement with product placement as far as the eye can see, and myself spouting out cheesy one liners like a tool. It's gonna be cool. [IMG]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/serj22/curtiscr_zpskwwnmuzc.jpg[/IMG] You have to click to appreciate. It's a good drawing.[/QUOTE] Click what?
[QUOTE=Ldesu;48573356]Click what?[/QUOTE] What... photobucket use to allow you to just click and it'd take you to the larger image... It looks like now you have to right click, select view image, then click the magnifying glass with the plus sign next to it. What a pain in the ass.
I've moved on to imgur :\
I've been using imgkk for years
[QUOTE=Del91;48573377]I've moved on to imgur :\[/QUOTE] Hmm. Id have like 3k pictures to move. Maybe ill just statt using that from now on. I think I started using photobucket in 2005. Dang.... that was highschool. I was a sophomore. Ill just let BBC it host what it has now and use something else for future stuff. Its just too broken lately. Id like to take a moment to talk about how my phone inserts "bbc" wherever it likes. I think the capital letters means its suggesting the British Broadcasting Company and not the pornographic anagram.
[QUOTE=Del91;48573268]One of the few things I picked out of Google is that it is NOT class D, I think its AB [editline]29th August 2015[/editline] If it doesn't rain all day tomorrow(it will), I'll swap it in.[/QUOTE] If your amp is still having a hard time after being swapped in, it may be with power delivery. Not so much as the wiring or gauge but with sudden drop in overall power. Alot of people I find don't have a power cap or one that's sufficient enough to handle the draw from the amp at it's settings. This I've seen sometimes causes the amp to go into protect because the excessive draw can sometimes damage the circuitry. My setup is thus: Renegade 1000w mono block amp 5 Farad capacitor 2x Pioneer 10s 1 (or 0) gauge wire throughout Delta server tower fan pointed directly at amp connected to amp's ground and power-on line. I've had this thing maxed out for at least 2 hours and haven't had any light dimming nor protect mode issues. If you had a high power rated multimeter you could connect it between the amps positive terminal and the positive wire, turn it on, blast some music and see what kind of draw your getting on volts and amps. This would tell you if you need to get (or upgrade) a cap.
[url]http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5164376285.html[/url] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/30bKogF.png[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Ridley;48572233]IDK, out of all the Z's this is still a good buy. Any Z before the Z33 is pretty tough to find in good condition. I'd say the car is still pretty good as a driver's car, their engines are as tough as hell compared to a Z32 and everything after the z31 was just as heavy. And we do own the car which was the fastest production car in japan for a period to. At the time, they were great.[/QUOTE] I guess. I've been told the turbo models are night-and-day difference. I'd love to VG33ET swap this thing but that's something I just don't have the money for :(. Every suspension component on this car needs replacing, the steering rack is dumping fluid on the ground - that stuff right there is probably $1,500. Then the fenders need to be straightened out - no clue what that costs. After that, the whole thing sanded, primed, and painted. I would be doing that myself but I've never painted a car and don't really have the space for something like that. Wahh. I also don't have the skills nor the connections to get fabricated parts (engine mounts for example) to engine swap
[QUOTE=danjee;48575252][url]http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5164376285.html[/url] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/30bKogF.png[/IMG][/QUOTE] you're too close brb moving to ridgecrest
[QUOTE=Scientwist;48574823]If your amp is still having a hard time after being swapped in, it may be with power delivery. Not so much as the wiring or gauge but with sudden drop in overall power. Alot of people I find don't have a power cap or one that's sufficient enough to handle the draw from the amp at it's settings. This I've seen sometimes causes the amp to go into protect because the excessive draw can sometimes damage the circuitry. My setup is thus: Renegade 1000w mono block amp 5 Farad capacitor 2x Pioneer 10s 1 (or 0) gauge wire throughout Delta server tower fan pointed directly at amp connected to amp's ground and power-on line. I've had this thing maxed out for at least 2 hours and haven't had any light dimming nor protect mode issues. If you had a high power rated multimeter you could connect it between the amps positive terminal and the positive wire, turn it on, blast some music and see what kind of draw your getting on volts and amps. This would tell you if you need to get (or upgrade) a cap.[/QUOTE] See, the crappy explod I have in there now used to not go into protect and I could turn the bass up a lot more than I can now, the first couple times I thought I knocked a connection loose. Now I've gotta limit my volume if don't want to reset my stereo every other song.
[QUOTE=Del91;48575873]See, the crappy explod I have in there now used to not go into protect and I could turn the bass up a lot more than I can now, the first couple times I thought I knocked a connection loose. Now I've gotta limit my volume if don't want to reset my stereo every other song.[/QUOTE] Sony Xplode amps tend to fail that way. Only the old black 1000+ amps are any good anymore, and then you have to have a touch of luck. I'm not saying they all fail like that, just that in recent years (like last 10 or so) Sony has been pretty subpar on the ICs that go into them including the power MOSFETS that drive the speakers. With out really good cooling they burn out, what happens is after so many times of getting to TJmax temp threshold they lose the ability to operate at those temps and start having issues at lower temps and simply getting hotter faster when pushed. I've done a fair amount of work on amps of my own and for friends and sadly unless you can find the same or better handling MOSFETS on digikey your kinda out of luck. Alot of times also, the thermister/temp sensor won't be properly attached to the amps case, telling the amps it's not that hot when it should be going "protect mode". Other times the thermister/temp sensor simply doesn't do it's job also ruining the amp. Most amps also don't have over voltage/load, under voltage or short circuit protection as you'd expect. It's there, just not like it's claimed to be, they just handle the abuse till they can't anymore.
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