• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
    5,004 replies, posted
Yep, I think I'm going to call about this one and see if I can look at it tomorrow. Not really crazy about the cloth interior but that can be changed at least. [url]http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5191390049.html[/url]
The caps free, and my headlights don't constantly dim, just on especially hard hits. Like Metallica's double bass drum. That almost always put my old xplod into protect.
[QUOTE=dude709;48578851]shock and ewww... [IMG][img]http://i.imgur.com/GqwSEuO.jpg[/img][/IMG][/QUOTE] fixed
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48557684]Has anyone here built a kit car? My dad wants to get either a Factory Five hot rod or a Caterham Seven 260. The FF is undoubtedly cooler and easy mounting for a variety of stupid cheap V8's, or even a Coyote. The Seven would make a far better track day car but not so great for cruising. Price would be somewhat cheaper for the Hot Rod. The Catetham probably would be easier to build from being smaller, not to mention the engine would be lighter. Anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?[/QUOTE] Yes! I say go with an Exomotive Exocet. I may be biased because I used to work at Exomotive, but it's a perfect track day toy that's easy to build, safe, and cheap. [t]http://i.imgur.com/SzMzJ90.jpg[/t] It also looks awesome.
[QUOTE=dude709;48578851]shock and ewww... [IMG][img]http://i.imgur.com/GqwSEuO.jpg[/img][/IMG][/QUOTE] I think this thing got posted here before and I said it was a sad waste of a classic Dart and Serj made me look silly. :(
So while we're on the topic of electrical mumbo jumbo, I need some advice. I really dug into the wiring of the RV today and it is a fucking mess. Bad grounds everywhere, phantom issues, no ryme or reason behind pretty much anything, and whover did it must have never gotten the memo that red means hot and black means ground. Seriously, its back asswards in about 4 different places, red cables clamped to the frame and black/white/orange cables carrying power. It is a fucking christmas miracle that most of the things work. Anyways, one such dunderheaded fuckup is that the generator isnt even hooked up to the 120v RV system [I]at all[/I]. It only powers four 120v 15a plugs in the generator compartment. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/usPVMsI.png[/IMG] and Im about 90% certain there are no fuses/breakers between the generator and those plugs. Anyways, there is a big thick 30amp cable with a 30a RV type plug which I assume goes to the breaker box, which has 4 breakers. I thought they said 30a on them, but now that I think of it that seems really silly, they should probably be 15a and they might actually be 15a. Anyways I have a 30a female to 15a male connector ordered so I can plug into an extension cord and wall socket to power the rv. Now when it arrives I [I]cooouuuld[/I] just plug that into the 15a generator plug and call it a day, but thats setting off little "danger" red flags in my head. What makes a little more sense to me is if the wires going from the generator are capable of withstanding 30a without melting, and if the generator can even put out 30a, I could splice a 30a female plug into the wire coming out of the generator, and plug that into the 30a male plug. I dont know how thick the wire is or how many watts it can withstand. I dont know if this decrepit old 70s generator can put out 30a anyways. The gauge on it goes up to 30a max, but I dont know if it will hit it. I know it doesnt need to hit 30. Anyways, whats the best and safest way to connect these? I could add a fuse in there too.
it still has 800hp and better than stock dart suspension so its rad
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48576192]People can post ads in different markets to get more people, its not that strange.[/QUOTE] Though, it is against CL rules unless it is exclusively posted in the far away market. You are allowed to post one ad for an item, period.
Pulled the big block today! [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsouc8v9tp.jpg[/thumb] Lookin' snug [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjzugwsh2.jpg[/thumb] giiiiiiiit outta there [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssr2v0voo.jpg[/thumb] Started disasembly, doesn't look quite like a mess of wires and hoses here. [thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsn22yhr08.jpg[/thumb] Tell me something about whats goin' on here. 1 looks lean, 4 idk, 2/3 look alright for an old engine With all the parts I got, should have an EEEEEEASY 500hp and 600ft/lbs
I now have sunglasses that match my car [t]http://i.imgur.com/Tge5hS7.jpg[/t]
It looks like #4 didnt get enough fuel :V
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;48578948]I think this thing got posted here before and I said it was a sad waste of a classic Dart and Serj made me look silly. :([/QUOTE] Basically. Thats one of the plans I habe for my dart too. Its not a waste. Hes keeping a classic car on the road and it probably blows the doors off my turbo dart....
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48577293]Not sure how the hell that worked out for you, but unless gas changes by more than for me, its not even worth shopping around for a different price.[/QUOTE] I recently moved to the city, where the gas has been ridiculously low, while it's at a record high back home. So instead of filling up at home, I waited until I got to the city and saved a bunch of money.
Can anyone here tell me how to tweak the carburetors from a BMW e12 four-cylinder? The engine has trouble running idleing.
[QUOTE=Gulen;48579627]I recently moved to the city, where the gas has been ridiculously low, while it's at a record high back home. So instead of filling up at home, I waited until I got to the city and saved a bunch of money.[/QUOTE] The gas stations "downtown" here are usually 30-40 cents a gallon higher than the ones on the edge of town outside of city tax areas. It's still fucking $2.80 here for regular, oil prices suck on the west coast and Oregon's is jacked up even more thanks to not being able to pump your own gas.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;48579372]EEEEEEASY 500hp and 600ft/lbs[/QUOTE] Is that a budget 500hp? Or do you have some expensive parts laying around?
Got a question relating to car audio systems. I've been getting mixed responses about the size of the cable I should use for the 1000W amplifier + 700W subwoofer combination I have sitting in the trunk. Is 10mm² cable enough for the power supply or should I really get a 35mm²/53mm² cable for it? The battery is in the front and the subwoofer is going to the back, the car is a '91 Opel Vectra so it's not too lengthy.
Looks at whats for sale on my local Craigslist. :vomit: [t]http://i.imgur.com/zwtUDqp.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/IGV5bXJ.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/b8bWoZt.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/Psp9fNb.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/kPpBP7r.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/fcR3vRa.jpg[/t] Even has the 2.7L V6. [t]http://i.imgur.com/Ubo1a5X.jpg[/t]
I was ok with it. It's a lot of red, but it's ok. The only single thing that actually bothers me, is that I think this whole red thing stemmed from the fact that they bought two large rims off craigslist, and then the guy said he didn't have all 4, so they bought two other rims from craigslist, and they looked different, so he painted them all red. Then his mom got in the car with her pet dog who likely scratched up the whole interior, and so he painted all the light plastic red. I guarantee it's a bad job and it peels and whatnot as well.
Gangster [editline]31st August 2015[/editline] Oh its a v6 too
They spray painted every easy to take off plastic piece. It wouldn't look so bad if it was a darker red.
Also as far as kit cars go, I'd buy an A-1 Attack. It's a mid engine car, and the donor car is a 1990-1993 Honda Accord. You also re-use the front suspension of the car as the rear suspension, then the front is supplied in the kit. The kit is also not that expensive, at $16,000. The car would be incredibly cheap too. I know the accord engine isn't super powerful, but the car only weighs 2,000lbs. Edit: I also just looked them up again, they started making kits that utilize MR2s, Accord V6s, and Honda Type R's. They all build the same car though. [IMG]http://www.b-racing.cz/images/nase-auta/k1-attack-roadster-7.JPG[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.b-racing.cz/images/nase-auta/k1-attack-roadster-9.JPG[/IMG]
F motors may not make a lot of power stock, but I hear they really like boost.
I think somebody was working on a foolproof kit for dropping a Honda V6 or something of those likes into an NA Miata. [editline]h[/editline] [url]http://www.superfastmiatas.com/JV6%20Miata%20Kit.html[/url] Honda J V6 t'was
[QUOTE=Serj22;48581970]Also as far as kit cars go, I'd buy an A-1 Attack. It's a mid engine car, and the donor car is a 1990-1993 Honda Accord. You also re-use the front suspension of the car as the rear suspension, then the front is supplied in the kit. The kit is also not that expensive, at $16,000. The car would be incredibly cheap too. I know the accord engine isn't super powerful, but the car only weighs 2,000lbs. Edit: I also just looked them up again, they started making kits that utilize MR2s, Accord V6s, and Honda Type R's. They all build the same car though. [IMG]http://www.b-racing.cz/images/nase-auta/k1-attack-roadster-7.JPG[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.b-racing.cz/images/nase-auta/k1-attack-roadster-9.JPG[/IMG][/QUOTE] Holy shit that is sexy
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48579027]So while we're on the topic of electrical mumbo jumbo, I need some advice. I really dug into the wiring of the RV today and it is a fucking mess. Bad grounds everywhere, phantom issues, no ryme or reason behind pretty much anything, and whover did it must have never gotten the memo that red means hot and black means ground. Seriously, its back asswards in about 4 different places, red cables clamped to the frame and black/white/orange cables carrying power. It is a fucking christmas miracle that most of the things work. Anyways, one such dunderheaded fuckup is that the generator isnt even hooked up to the 120v RV system [I]at all[/I]. It only powers four 120v 15a plugs in the generator compartment. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/usPVMsI.png[/IMG] and Im about 90% certain there are no fuses/breakers between the generator and those plugs. Anyways, there is a big thick 30amp cable with a 30a RV type plug which I assume goes to the breaker box, which has 4 breakers. I thought they said 30a on them, but now that I think of it that seems really silly, they should probably be 15a and they might actually be 15a. Anyways I have a 30a female to 15a male connector ordered so I can plug into an extension cord and wall socket to power the rv. Now when it arrives I [I]cooouuuld[/I] just plug that into the 15a generator plug and call it a day, but thats setting off little "danger" red flags in my head. What makes a little more sense to me is if the wires going from the generator are capable of withstanding 30a without melting, and if the generator can even put out 30a, I could splice a 30a female plug into the wire coming out of the generator, and plug that into the 30a male plug. I dont know how thick the wire is or how many watts it can withstand. I dont know if this decrepit old 70s generator can put out 30a anyways. The gauge on it goes up to 30a max, but I dont know if it will hit it. I know it doesnt need to hit 30. Anyways, whats the best and safest way to connect these? I could add a fuse in there too.[/QUOTE] Qualifible Electrician here! I would deeply suggest to start over or do massive amounts of probe testing before you destroy either Wat you plug your rv into or what you plug into your rv. It is normal in a way for the generator to have a plug in going STRAIGHT to a switch box then going to a breaker box. And the outside shore power going to a outside designed inlet going either stright to a switch box or breaker box. Abd the term I'm using for switch box is a automatic transfer switch..... If you have ANY DOUBTS about it just stop and re wire it. I've wired numerous numbers of enclosed trailers now for 120/220(A/C) and most of them are very simple. It only gets time consuming once you add solar panels to the mix. Then you have to have a 3way automatic transfer switch.... Just a pain in the butt to make it look nice and professional. Dont even get me started on people trying to use regular car batteries as deep cycles thinking they will work for their purpose because 99% of the time the batts will go dead the generator will automaticly turn on and they wonder why the low battery light is on and the generator is running... And after that ask me to lower the voltage cutoff of the inverter and make it were the generator wont automatic turn on. I simply say "Get afew true deep cycle batteries and you will thank me for those features."
Started running Diesel Kleen in the Detroit for the cetane boost and extra lube for my injection pump (recommended since it was built for high sulfur diesel that provided much more lube than the newer ULSD) Also put in a new air filter. When I was shopping around, I compared the one that's in it now, vs DriveWorks, vs Purolator(my brand of choice, though the store only had the standard filter). I noticed that, overall, the Purolator filter had about twice as many pleats over Driveworks and the one that is in it. After putting in the new filter, i notice a decent bit more power, though hear about 3x more intake noise.
Intake noise is second best noise
[QUOTE=Del91;48582613]Intake noise is third second best noise[/QUOTE] I cant hear it over my exhaust noise even with my intake lid flipped. :> 3" Straight with a 6" resonator ftw? Its not as fun as open headers tho!
[QUOTE=Januzuzu;48581270]Got a question relating to car audio systems. I've been getting mixed responses about the size of the cable I should use for the 1000W amplifier + 700W subwoofer combination I have sitting in the trunk. Is 10mm² cable enough for the power supply or should I really get a 35mm²/53mm² cable for it? The battery is in the front and the subwoofer is going to the back, the car is a '91 Opel Vectra so it's not too lengthy.[/QUOTE] If it's a true 1000w rms amp, you'd want about 4ga, which looks to be... 21-27mm² 10mm² is like 8ga, which is OK for a 1000w max amp usually, since those average about 500w rms.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.