Hey Serj, why is the Chrysler Slant Six such a torque monster?
[video=youtube;iSIsCAGV7A0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSIsCAGV7A0[/video]
[QUOTE]Eaton M90 supercharged Chrysler slant six.
This run was with fresh fuel and re-set ignition curv.
Naturally aspirated was 91.6 HP and 228.9 ft-lb at the wheels.
Supercharged 10psi is 163.5 HP and 473.9 ft-lb at the wheels.[/QUOTE]
edit:
is it because of it being over square?
[t]http://www.kitfoster.com/images/2008-2-5_ConsulEngineWeb-Large.jpg[/t]
That bus is absolutely badass
I got a little job at work today
[t]http://puu.sh/jXxii.jpg[/t]
"Fix this, we're gonna sell it"
"k"
"is the frame bent?"
"no"
"Then we can fix this"
[QUOTE=Lerlth;48601074]Hey Serj, why is the Chrysler Slant Six such a torque monster?
[video=youtube;iSIsCAGV7A0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSIsCAGV7A0[/video]
edit:
is it because of it being over square?
[t]http://www.kitfoster.com/images/2008-2-5_ConsulEngineWeb-Large.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
That's just a fancy way to say that the stroke is longer than the bore is wide, isn't it?
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;48601520]That's just a fancy way to say that the stroke is longer than the bore is wide, isn't it?[/QUOTE]
Like that but backwards. More bore less stroke.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;48601074]Hey Serj, why is the Chrysler Slant Six such a torque
edit:
is it because of it being over square?
[t]http://www.kitfoster.com/images/2008-2-5_ConsulEngineWeb-Large.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Its got a stroke on it thats 4 1/8" so it spends a long time up top and the whole assembly is built similar to a hemi. Just with a wedge head and not actually a hemi. The whole thingnis setup to produce a lot of torque. They used slant sixes in city buses..
Now I kind of don't care if I got a slant six in a D150. I'll just supercharge it... God damn. Almost 500ft/lbs on that thing.
So obviously I am still keeping my options open, and it seems like we are starting to enter Miata buying season, where people are selling them after having spent the summer enjoying them. I should be able to get a non rusty NA that works well for $3k, right?
dwt man, I'm sorry if this comes off as rude, but you're kinda totally all over the place with cars and don't seem like you're actually in a place to go out and buy one. One week you're looking at a 4-seater, econo-box Civic, the next you're asking about a 2-seater death trap.
Again, I don't mean to sound rude, it just seems like every few pages you're looking at a new car but never follow through with going to look at it or buying it, and then you're onto a totally different one a week later.
I guess what I'm asking is are you actually in a position to buy a car (ie. have the money on hand or are loan approved?) Or are you just looking at what's out there and fantasizing about buying it? Because there's nothing wrong with the last one, I do that every day, but it's making me a little anxious to always see you asking for our opinions on a car, figuring out budgeting, but never following through :(.
So - are you in a position to buy a car? If so, what's your budget? If not, what's your fantasy budget? Are you working towards attaining this or is your fantasy budget like $90,000? Personally, every day I check for some 240s, 300ZXs, and Town Cars. 240 is fantasy, 300ZX is fantasy (and scouting for parts cars), and Town Car is a viable replacement for my daily driver as I'm tired of always having to shift and being uncomfortable.
We all just want to see you get something you love, but stop teasing us man!!!! Let us know what you're aiming for here, we want to help you, but give us a bit more info to do that!
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48602181]dwt man, I'm sorry if this comes off as rude, but you're kinda totally all over the place with cars and don't seem like you're actually in a place to go out and buy one. One week you're looking at a 4-seater, econo-box Civic, the next you're asking about a 2-seater death trap.
Again, I don't mean to sound rude, it just seems like every few pages you're looking at a new car but never follow through with going to look at it or buying it, and then you're onto a totally different one a week later.
I guess what I'm asking is are you actually in a position to buy a car (ie. have the money on hand or are loan approved?) Or are you just looking at what's out there and fantasizing about buying it? Because there's nothing wrong with the last one, I do that every day, but it's making me a little anxious to always see you asking for our opinions on a car, figuring out budgeting, but never following through :(.
So - are you in a position to buy a car? If so, what's your budget? If not, what's your fantasy budget? Are you working towards attaining this or is your fantasy budget like $90,000? Personally, every day I check for some 240s, 300ZXs, and Town Cars. 240 is fantasy, 300ZX is fantasy (and scouting for parts cars), and Town Car is a viable replacement for my daily driver as I'm tired of always having to shift and being uncomfortable.
We all just want to see you get something you love, but stop teasing us man!!!! Let us know what you're aiming for here, we want to help you, but give us a bit more info to do that![/QUOTE]
This isn't tumblr dude, just call him a faggot and tell him to buy a Z31.
Buy a Comanche DWT.
I have $3,000 USD to spend, I just know that I typically make quick decisions when I buy something so I want to keep my options open. At first I looked at celicas, miatas, preludes, integras, etc. anything sort of not lame that was stick. I realized that for what I wanted to spend, I was not going to get a decent one of any of those, so I started weighing my options and stumbled upon that Saab 900. I fell in love because it was this neat, classic, quirky car, well maintained (at least by the most recent owner). I sort of grew puppy dog eyes for it and just totally ignored the fact that I wanted a car that could fit 2 adults (and the fact that at 17, it would be silly to buy a car without being able to see it in person first). Yeah, preludes have back seats but no grown adult is going back there. It may sound kinda lame but I hate driving people around more than anything so I figure if I have one spare seat then I won't really have to worry about that.
So yes, I have the money to buy a car but I am starting to think at this point that I should just save it all instead of settling for a car that I don't fully want. Ideally I would love an NA or NB Miata but it looks like that at the current prices I won't be able to get a decent one. I want good mechanical condition (I care more about well maintained and working than the mileage number) and good exterior condition, ex. paint that I can wash and wax without it flaking off. I figure if the car doesn't look nice I won't have much reason to care for it.
I also just started my senior year and I am getting swamped with work so it is hard to find time (especially if people can't meet on the weekends) to look at cars when most of them are at least in NYC area or 5 boroughs (can't legally drive there) or Long Island (requires driving through one of the 5 boroughs.)
I seriously wish I could just settle on something, but I don't wanna spend all my money on a rusted NA Miata with a torn soft top and broken AC because there is nothing else I can find.
If you have no time you can't afford a 240z or a 300zx
[editline]3rd September 2015[/editline]
Or a miata if you're on the east coast.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;48601520]That's just a fancy way to say that the stroke is longer than the bore is wide, isn't it?[/QUOTE]
Sorry, hit the wrong button. Over-square is where the stroke is smaller than the bore. Hemis use this. Generally speaking Oversquare will allow an engine to rev higher and produce higher high-end power with moderate low-er end torque.
Under-square has a higher stroke than bore which allows lower revs, lower high-end power, but much higher low-end torque.
A lot of Chrylser engines tend to be Oversquare and geared towards higher revs and higher end power but will produce decent mid-range torque.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;48602971]Sorry, hit the wrong button. Over-square is where the stroke is smaller than the bore. Hemis use this. Generally speaking Oversquare will allow an engine to rev higher and produce higher high-end power with moderate low-er end torque.
Under-square has a higher stroke than bore which allows lower revs, lower high-end power, but much higher low-end torque.
A lot of Chrylser engines tend to be Oversquare and geared towards higher revs and higher end power but will produce decent mid-range torque.[/QUOTE]
I got it mixed up. I was under the impression that longer strokes required less crank revolutions, but once I really thought about it I realized I had it backwards.
I saw some cheap aftermarket wheels on a car today, they were black with the silver stripe running around the edge of the lip. To me it looked like preinstalled curb rash :v:
[QUOTE=dwt110;48602641]I have $3,000 USD to spend, I just know that I typically make quick decisions when I buy something so I want to keep my options open. At first I looked at celicas, miatas, preludes, integras, etc. anything sort of not lame that was stick. I realized that for what I wanted to spend, I was not going to get a decent one of any of those, so I started weighing my options and stumbled upon that Saab 900. I fell in love because it was this neat, classic, quirky car, well maintained (at least by the most recent owner). I sort of grew puppy dog eyes for it and just totally ignored the fact that I wanted a car that could fit 2 adults (and the fact that at 17, it would be silly to buy a car without being able to see it in person first). Yeah, preludes have back seats but no grown adult is going back there. It may sound kinda lame but I hate driving people around more than anything so I figure if I have one spare seat then I won't really have to worry about that.
So yes, I have the money to buy a car but I am starting to think at this point that I should just save it all instead of settling for a car that I don't fully want. Ideally I would love an NA or NB Miata but it looks like that at the current prices I won't be able to get a decent one. I want good mechanical condition (I care more about well maintained and working than the mileage number) and good exterior condition, ex. paint that I can wash and wax without it flaking off. I figure if the car doesn't look nice I won't have much reason to care for it.
I also just started my senior year and I am getting swamped with work so it is hard to find time (especially if people can't meet on the weekends) to look at cars when most of them are at least in NYC area or 5 boroughs (can't legally drive there) or Long Island (requires driving through one of the 5 boroughs.)
I seriously wish I could just settle on something, but I don't wanna spend all my money on a rusted NA Miata with a torn soft top and broken AC because there is nothing else I can find.[/QUOTE]
If you can go without buying a new car and use public transportation (:disgust:) or whatever you have (can't remember if you own anything yet), I'd say do that and save up so you can get something you [I]really[/I] want, like a good Miata or whatever.
If you have $3000, you are going to be heavily restricted on what special snowflake cars you can buy that isn't a pile of misery on wheels. Doubly so if you don't have the time to work on it yourself.
I bought an 85 supra for $2k.
Best worst decision I ever made. Luckily I have a second car. :v:
[QUOTE=Del91;48603045]I bought an 85 supra for $2k.
Best worst decision I ever made. Luckily I have a second car. :v:[/QUOTE]
I have an unhealthy love for 80's Toyota anything.
Also DWT at least you have actual options, I'm sick of seeing Taurus wagons and overpriced Civics and saturns that have been beat to hell for sale around here.
[editline]3rd September 2015[/editline]
In other news, I found a fix for my MR2's high idle - I need to put a manual choke in there, because my 30 year old ball of wax is all fucky.
Then the next on the list is to fix the massive oil leak and the electrical drain. And flush/change the coolant, and put a new exhaust on there.
Anyone played the Forza 6 demo yet? I can't decide whether or not I hate the handling model. My car keeps wanting to oversteer anytime I touch both the throttle and the steering. Like I'm in second gear and the car will whip super hard coming out of a corner. Whereas in any other Forza game it would just track through the corner.
[QUOTE=Del91;48603069]Anyone played the Forza 6 demo yet? I can't decide whether or not I hate the handling model. My car keeps wanting to oversteer anytime I touch both the throttle and the steering. Like I'm in second gear and the car will whip super hard coming out of a corner. Whereas in any other Forza game it would just track through the corner.[/QUOTE]
They probably changed the default steering assist behavior.
Forza 4 had the assisted "Normal" steering but then the so-called "Sim" steering was stupid uncontrollable on racing wheels for normal racing because it had some weird scaling near the extreme angles; great for drifting, not so great when trying to nail the apex.
[QUOTE=dwt110;48602641]I have $3,000 USD to spend, I just know that I typically make quick decisions when I buy something so I want to keep my options open. At first I looked at celicas, miatas, preludes, integras, etc. anything sort of not lame that was stick. I realized that for what I wanted to spend, I was not going to get a decent one of any of those, so I started weighing my options and stumbled upon that Saab 900. I fell in love because it was this neat, classic, quirky car, well maintained (at least by the most recent owner). I sort of grew puppy dog eyes for it and just totally ignored the fact that I wanted a car that could fit 2 adults (and the fact that at 17, it would be silly to buy a car without being able to see it in person first). Yeah, preludes have back seats but no grown adult is going back there. It may sound kinda lame but I hate driving people around more than anything so I figure if I have one spare seat then I won't really have to worry about that.
So yes, I have the money to buy a car but [B]I am starting to think at this point that I should just save it all instead of settling for a car that I don't fully want[/B]. Ideally I would love an NA or NB Miata but it looks like that at the current prices I won't be able to get a decent one. I want good mechanical condition (I care more about well maintained and working than the mileage number) and good exterior condition, ex. paint that I can wash and wax without it flaking off. I figure if the car doesn't look nice I won't have much reason to care for it.
I also just started my senior year and I am getting swamped with work so it is hard to find time (especially if people can't meet on the weekends) to look at cars when most of them are at least in NYC area or 5 boroughs (can't legally drive there) or Long Island (requires driving through one of the 5 boroughs.)
I seriously wish I could just settle on something, but I don't wanna spend all my money on a rusted NA Miata with a torn soft top and broken AC because there is nothing else I can find.[/QUOTE]
1. Listen to your own advice
2. 2 seaters are more expensive to insure than 4-5 seaters
3. Every car you have posted - except for the Saab, the Lexus, and the diesel Benz - has a higher than average insurance loss rate, which means you pay more in insurance to just drive it.
4. If you hate driving people, you can always just refuse to drive people around or do what I do and force them to pay for your gas-(this works every time)
5. You could try to look for cars up towards Albany or cars in NJ or Massachusetts (don't buy a Connecticut car because of our lack of yearly inspection)
6. If the seller isn't going to try and get your business by meeting you on your time, walk
7. If you don't really have the time to look at cars now in high school, you won't have time to fix your broken enthusiast-mobile during college (hence why my Benz has been dead from New Years Eve till today.)
[B]Anyway[/B]
My Benz is now in running order - time to get rid of the dust bunnies and romp up and down the mountains again like a moron. :dance:
[QUOTE=Saber15;48603080]They probably changed the default steering assist behavior.
Forza 4 had the assisted "Normal" steering but then the so-called "Sim" steering was stupid uncontrollable on racing wheels for normal racing because it had some weird scaling near the extreme angles; great for drifting, not so great when trying to nail the apex.[/QUOTE]
Yeah I have it on normal steering with a controller and it felt like sim steering. Just did another race( in gorgeous rain on Sebring) and dominated so I don't know. :v:
[editline]2nd September 2015[/editline]
Uhhh that's the end of the demo. Fuck.
[QUOTE=Slithers;48603094]1. Listen to your own advice
2. 2 seaters are more expensive to insure than 4-5 seaters
3. Every car you have posted - except for the Saab, the Lexus, and the diesel Benz - has a higher than average insurance loss rate, which means you pay more in insurance to just drive it.
4. If you hate driving people, you can always just refuse to drive people around or do what I do and force them to pay for your gas-(this works every time)
5. You could try to look for cars up towards Albany or cars in NJ or Massachusetts (don't buy a Connecticut car because of our lack of yearly inspection)
6. If the seller isn't going to try and get your business by meeting you on your time, walk
7. If you don't really have the time to look at cars now in high school, you won't have time to fix your broken enthusiast-mobile during college (hence why my Benz has been dead from New Years Eve till today.)
[B]Anyway[/B]
My Benz is now in running order - time to get rid of the dust bunnies and romp up and down the mountains again like a moron. :dance:[/QUOTE]
I agree with him on #6. One of the least-interested-in-selling-a-car-to-me people was the guy that tried to sell an overpriced, broken Subaru with an offer to get the car illegally inspected. Your mileage may very, but if someone isn't willing to put forth the effort to sell a car, chances are they cared even less about it whilst owning it.
Don't get a car that you don't like just because you *have* to get a car. That's what happened with my Mitsubishi. It's been a good car, but I just overall dislike it and I feel like I could have been driving something much better for two years instead of it if I had just shopped around more.
[QUOTE=deathmog;48603260]I agree with him on #6. One of the least-interested-in-selling-a-car-to-me people was the guy that tried to sell an overpriced, broken Subaru with an offer to get the car illegally inspected. Your mileage may very, but if someone isn't willing to put forth the effort to sell a car, chances are they cared even less about it whilst owning it.
Don't get a car that you don't like just because you *have* to get a car. That's what happened with my Mitsubishi. It's been a good car, but I just overall dislike it and I feel like I could have been driving something much better for two years instead of it if I had just shopped around more.[/QUOTE]
Also, avoid people who lay on the sales hustle too thick, and wikipediacs.
I had to take my car to two shops to get it to run again after I did something stupid on New Years. The reason it left the first shop is because the owner of the place said that my car was junk, and then not even a minute later, tried to sell me 7 different vehicles that didn't fit my criteria. So I took my not running car to another shop, and they got it driving in less than a day....
So just beware of that too, if/when you folks take your older cars into the shop. Always never trust mechanics and sellers, and always get multiple opinions or look at multiple vehicles.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;48603003]I got it mixed up. I was under the impression that longer strokes required less crank revolutions, but once I really thought about it I realized I had it backwards.[/QUOTE]
The slant makes a lot of toque but here's the issue - There's 3 slant sixes. Get ready for a lesson...
One is a 170CI slant
The other is a 225 CI slant
The last is a 198CI slant
All three are the same exact block, but decked to a different height. The difference between the 170 deck and the 225 is about an inch.
The 170 was available initially, then they made the 225 to be an option. The 198 came later, was around for about 3 years and then it was phased out - there was no point to it. Then only the 225 was available.
The 170 has a short stroke, and as such - revs pretty high, so this is a good motor if you're going for a fast turner.
The 198 is close to a 225, but they used a slightly shorter rod than a 225. About 3 5/8" stroke
225 has a 4 1/8" stroke, and the piston is 3.4, so the stroke is longer than the piston is wide.
A few years ago, a famous Slant Six modifier named Doug Dutra released an article with a bunch of slant combinations he had made that were successful. EVERYONE read this artice, and found out that if you found a 198, took all the rods out and put em in your 225, you get a stroker slant, and produce some awesome power. Since EVERYONE read that, good luck finding a 198... they were all snatched and stripped of their rods. Valon and me had a convo on how to modify a slant, and it's expensive. The only way to get 198 rods now is to get lucky and find a block, or buy some molenar H beam rods, at about $500/set.
You can also use the Chrysler 2.2 Turbo pistons in the slant, which have a different wrist-pin to dome dimension and build the longrod six. You could also offset grind the crankshaft, and turn it into a 240 inch slant with only 0.100 overbore, which is about the limit of the casing.
Here's the article if your interested in making a leaning tower of power:
[url]http://www.slantsix.org/articles/stroking/stroking.htm[/url]
[editline]3rd September 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Del91;48603069]Anyone played the Forza 6 demo yet? I can't decide whether or not I hate the handling model. My car keeps wanting to oversteer anytime I touch both the throttle and the steering. Like I'm in second gear and the car will whip super hard coming out of a corner. Whereas in any other Forza game it would just track through the corner.[/QUOTE]
I'll buy the game weather it drives ok or not. I mostly play drift comps in my replica Honnicorn on Forza 5 now anyway. Well, we've played it together I think, you know how I operate.
But right now. The Phantom Pain occupies my time...
I do t get how putting a longer rod in and engine would make it a stroker, the stroke is still the same, it would just change the piston height (idk if the 198 rods is longer or what the deal is). If it was longer then it would raise your piston height and give you some extra compression.
Thanks for all the advice guys but I am going to have to seriously reconsider now that Geico quoted like $1500 a year for me to insure an old saab (under my moms plan ofc). A miata was like $1900 a year, and this is with using it as a DD. No clue what it would be as a pleasure car, but maybe I could go through hagertys if they will insure a car primarily driven by a 17 year old.
Finally "finished" up my MPFI swap. Turns out that the IACV I was using which looked like the cleanest of my two was bad. I thought my spare one was filled with RTV by a previous owner of the manifold due to having both a throttle body mount IACV and a rear mount one. That car must have been a fucking nightmare of bad idle.
I cleaned it out real good, tossed it on and my car wouldn't even idle because I had everything closed tight. Adjusted the idle and throttle plate back so it would idle at 750rpms, hooked everything up, reset the ECU and the car is quite happy so far. I'll have to see how it deals with a cold start tomorrow but so far it's doing great while warmed up.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-09-02%2018.29.08.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-09-02%2018.28.57.jpg[/t]
It runs extremely well and the intake noise is pretty crazy, for some odd reason it sounds really low and more Subaru like through the intake than you'd ever consider a shitty D series Civic rasp box to sound. I'm really happy with how it sounds through the exhaust and intake, no idea why these motors sound like utter shit on everyone else's car.
I need to order a header collector donut for my Y8 header so I can put in a proper 4-2-1 header instead of this D15 stock junker, I can toss in my new o2 sensor as well. Now I really want to get a cam regrind, chipped, tuned and a proper transmission with equal length axles. :v:
You're falling down that civic rabbit hole. :v:
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