• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
    5,004 replies, posted
Jesus Christ that thing makes a lot of power for a 4 cylinder. I'm looking to get about 280-300hp (to the crank, to the wheels would be amazing) out of a normally 215HP engine. It has 9.8:1 compression right now. I plan on using E85, way cheaper than 93 octane. I've done a lot of math on the thing and I come up that the effective CR will be 13:1 with 5 pounds of boost. Which [I]should[/I] be in the range of E85.
[QUOTE=Kabstrac;48609197]nah nah, I love this truck the way it is; it's a cheap and compact work truck. Body is in pretty good shape, frame is very clean too. Just some rust in the box to repair but it is a nice little find. [editline]3rd September 2015[/editline] also: [IMG]http://engines-usa.com/ebaytemplate/banner700.jpg[/IMG] america as hell[/QUOTE] all it needs is a gun in it's mouth and yea
[Media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ0TGYudKEI[/media] That integra is nasty
[QUOTE=Del91;48609516][Media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ0TGYudKEI[/media] That integra is nasty[/QUOTE] It's a real shame it ended up losing a rod in the end but that's unfortunately just what happens sometimes I guess. I think a lot of high hp Evos use GSC and they're really popular with them, AFAIK GSC really knows what they're doing. [QUOTE=Lerlth;48608995]Jesus Christ that thing makes a lot of power for a 4 cylinder. I'm looking to get about 280-300hp (to the crank, to the wheels would be amazing) out of a normally 215HP engine. It has 9.8:1 compression right now. I plan on using E85, way cheaper than 93 octane. I've done a lot of math on the thing and I come up that the effective CR will be 13:1 with 5 pounds of boost. Which [I]should[/I] be in the range of E85.[/QUOTE] E85 is a nice insurance fuel really, you'd be fine to use premium if you could get someone to tune it who's quite good at it. What are you planning for engine management, Megasquirt? You're going to use a supercharger on that V6 right? E85 would definitely be the fuel for you. The tuner I go to locally has a beautiful CRX with a JDM GSR(10.6:1) that has a roots style Jackson Racing Supercharger kit. He picked up like at least 25whp alone on his low reading Dynapack just simply by switching to E85 because of a crazy drop in IATs.
I'm hoping some one can tune the stock ECU, but hell would freeze over before that happens. It's a 98 Grand Caravan motor, so good luck. If I did MegaSquirt I'd have to swap in a 5 speed from a 2.7L car, which wouldn't be too hard, but there's no way it would handle all that torque (Plus it has a stupid low gear ratio). Unless I can get MegaShift to work with the trans (apparently it works really good with the 41TE trans) then I'll be wanting the stock ECU tuned. But I don't care either way. I plan on getting the motor working NA in the car then switch to MS once I get all the fab work done for the blower.
While complaining about how impossible it is to find a rear wheel drive car in decent condition under 5k, I ran into this: [img]http://images.craigslist.org/00L0L_ggGcSRh07KS_600x450.jpg[/img] So how fucked is the car? The exterior and interior seem to be great condition, the car only has 138k, and afaik only the FD engine required constant life support to function. Are there any common problems I should be looking out for?
Ye the engine will still probably need a rebuild
looked at this today, sleeping on it and driving it again tomorrow. maybe saying goodbye to the e36 deathtrap :trumpet: [t]http://i.imgur.com/fPntW52.jpg[/t]
Has anyone ever had luck with VHT Flameproof paint? I was planning to spray my D16Y8 header with Cast Iron Grey but I've only ever had luck with it on heatshields. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-20%2021.45.19.jpg[/t] Supposedly this is painted with it. [t]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/Afterdinner/1976%202002%20Mintgrun/20130223_181900_zpsce42165d.jpg~original[/t]
[QUOTE=mn_chaos;48610768]While complaining about how impossible it is to find a rear wheel drive car in decent condition under 5k, I ran into this: [img]http://images.craigslist.org/00L0L_ggGcSRh07KS_600x450.jpg[/img] So how fucked is the car? The exterior and interior seem to be great condition, the car only has 138k, and afaik only the FD engine required constant life support to function. Are there any common problems I should be looking out for?[/QUOTE] The FD RX-7 is the third generation RX-7 with turbos and super duper rotor motor which required delicate care. This is a first generation RX-7, the FB, which sports two of the best rotaries Mazda ever put out. The FB came with two motors, the 12A, which is the carb'd version and what's in this car, and the 13B, the fuel injected version in the top of the line model, the GSL-SE, which board member Metallica has. This is a GS model, which if I remember correctly is the base model. Nothing necessarily wrong with that, just that it's a base model with no power seats/windows, the basic stereo, no rear hatch wiper, and the carb'd motor. Everyone loves to tell you how fucked every single rotary on the planet is and that you'll be buying new apex seals (which is essentially a rotary engine rebuild) in-between your regular oil changes and that they use a ton of oil. The reality is that apex seals will [I]EVENTUALLY[/I] fail simply because they're meant to. Apex seals, like clutches, are [b]WEAR ITEMS[/b], meaning they were designed with the idea that eventually they're going to be worn down and need replacement. That's something few people seem to grasp. Wankel engines also [b]INJECT OIL INTO THE CHAMBER[/b] every rotation. This is something else people fail to grasp, but it's by design as it helps lubricate the space between the apex seal and the rotor housing - so your car WILL burn a little bit of oil, but that's simply because it's designed to. Compression tests are incredibly important for wankels. They can tell you how close the car is to needing apex seals. The neat thing about the seals failing is that even when they decide to go, you'll still be able to get the car home. You may be down on power, but you'll still get there, unlike a piston engine which would typically leave you stranded if your piston rings blew. This is still a 30 year old car though, so keep that in mind. Maintenance isn't lax to begin with but it is a wankel, so it's much more sensitive to proper maintenance being done on time and driving the car correctly (frequent red lines to clear out carbon buildup). So in short, don't let the "WANKEL IS EVIL" bandwagon get to you, but if you go into owning a wankel thinking it'll be just as simple or cheap as a piston engine, well, sucks for you
They also get pretty bad mpg
[QUOTE=Del91;48612051]They also get pretty bad mpg[/QUOTE] Everyone also likes to bring this one up - and there's no real argument here. They aren't great on fuel, but there's worse stuff out there. I see similar fuel economy in my Z that someone with a wankel would see.
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;48610776]Ye the engine will still probably need a rebuild[/QUOTE] Unless you can get confirmation it's been done, it's pretty much a given you'll need to rebuild it [editline]4th September 2015[/editline] It's just not worth not doing it
Ended up buying a 12V compressor for the Subaru. I have a 2HP, 26 gallon compressor at my house. Works great, but some days im late for work and don't have time to fill before I go. Since it is sensitive to even 4PSI differences in tire pressures, I have to adjust the tires about weekly to keep the handling spot on. I run them at 38PSI front, 36 PSI rear. I checked at HF, the ones there are bigger than I need for the Subaru. At Walmart, they only had the Slime brand. I researched all the ones they carried, the low end ones either had no reviews or bad ones. Hidden away in the bicycle isle was this gem; [T]http://i.imgur.com/S9s6DhH.jpg[/t] The Bell Inflation Station 500 for about $15. About the size of the smallest Slime pump, but has a much more rugged shell. Has 10 feet of cord, an LED light. Reviews are pretty good, which made me buy it. First test, it brought my 205/55/16 tire from 32 to 38PSI in about 2-3 minutes. If you have a car with low pro tires and want a cheap compressor to carry, it's worth checking out. Some reviews say 10ft isn't enough for mini vans. 10ft was enough for all 4 on my Impreza, and extension cords are available for 12v outlets if you need them. The Slime pumps had 10ft cords as well.
[QUOTE=Del91;48612051]They also get pretty bad mpg[/QUOTE] Oh yeah definitely this My friend dailies a first gen, I remember him saying that 30 bucks got him 60km once. Fuel was ~$1.35 at the time. I've driven it and I like to think of the fuel economy as smiles per gallon
[QUOTE=mn_chaos;48610768]While complaining about how impossible it is to find a rear wheel drive car in decent condition under 5k, I ran into this:[/QUOTE] CVPI CVPI VPIPVICPVPip I love my P71 to death, even though I'm looking for a DD so I don't drive the security equivalent of a slicktop cruiser everywhere
ugh
It's really funny law enforcement just sees them as big cumbersome gas guzzling slow as fuck work cars and civs/private security like me see them as cheap luxury cars with an actually decent power plant I can't imagine working 10 hours in one and then being forced to entertain the notion of driving one casually though
Did more KLR stuff yesterday: - Took the carb apart again and replaced the missing coasting enricher o-ring, then re-adjusted the idle mixture screw - Cleaned, lubed, waxed, and tensioned the chain - Re-welded two snapped frame components and fabricated sturdier tank mounts for my 8 gallon IMS tank - Installed new exhaust manifold studs and nuts with a new crush gasket (no more exhaust leak!) - Replaced the severely bent handlebars with $70 adjustable bars from CycleGear - Installed new pro-grip grips [t]http://i.imgur.com/q5HhSwc.jpg[/t] - Flushed and bled the front and rear master cylinders.... they were NASTY. [t]http://i.imgur.com/fvHTATd.jpg[/t] Next up is a valve adjustment. I scored HARD and got a 16-shim kit from a dude on eBay for $35 compared to the $120 I would have spent on Eagle Mike's kit. This bike has come a long way, it's mostly cosmetic stuff now. Oh, and ordered a 7" headlight with builtin amber signals and brackets to mount to my forks for a nice streetfighter look. [t]http://i.imgur.com/BigvJvu.jpg[/t]
so I did a thing [t]http://i.imgur.com/Aw8YJiG.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/0U7uTZz.jpg[/t] interior and exterior are in okay shape, but everything works and nothings falling apart unlike the e36. IT HAS FUCKING AIR CONDITIONING :fap:
Dont make a drift car out of it please
[QUOTE=cNova;48614471]Dont make a drift car out of it please[/QUOTE] [URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylpcxwWdJ70"]It's not a Lexus. [/URL]
All im doing is cleaning it up and fixing some tiny rust spots, maybe wheels and coilovers eventually but I just wanted a better daily. I paid $2k for it and it has just under 180k, dude showed me all the maintenance he did so it should last a while. [t]http://i.imgur.com/LRzH6kO.jpg[/t] interior aint perfect but its 100x better than the e36
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48611991]Has anyone ever had luck with VHT Flameproof paint? I was planning to spray my D16Y8 header with Cast Iron Grey but I've only ever had luck with it on heatshields. [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5601782/EF%20Pics/2015-08-20%2021.45.19.jpg[/t] Supposedly this is painted with it. [t]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/Afterdinner/1976%202002%20Mintgrun/20130223_181900_zpsce42165d.jpg~original[/t][/QUOTE] It took two trues for me to get it right. Clean the hrll out of the part, thrn do 3 or 4 coats of vht 15 minutes between voats. Then back it in an oven at 150 for 20 minutes. Then 250 for 20 minutes then 400 for 20 minutes. Then leace it sit for a week. Then put it on. Otherwise it will not work.
[QUOTE=Sonador;48613384]It's really funny law enforcement just sees them as big cumbersome gas guzzling slow as fuck work cars and civs/private security like me see them as cheap luxury cars with an actually decent power plant I can't imagine working 10 hours in one and then being forced to entertain the notion of driving one casually though[/QUOTE] They were the workhorse for law enforcement for a reason. They were great. Would never buy one used tho because of the obvious points of wear and abuse
[vid]http://i.imgur.com/UX68xNr.webm[/vid] Wouldn't wanna be in it, but [I]neat![/I]
Okay guys, dead serious right here. I found [URL="https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/5172964293.html"]this[/URL] on craigslist and it looks like a good car. Autocheck is clean (doesn't tell much), it is practical for a teenager, price is good, honda reliability (?), mileage is low for an old honda. Is this a bad call? Insurance is CHEAPER than my 1993 honda accord (ACCORDing to geico quote, heh). I seriously think this could be the one. I have the chance to go look at it tomorrow. Should I even bother?
Go for it, dude, that thing looks great.
[QUOTE=Gulen;48615434]Go for it, dude, that thing looks great.[/QUOTE] I'm going to see it tomorrow morning. If I like it, the guy said he can probably do same day delivery for an extra $100. Is it worth it to pay $100 for a full PPI?
do you mean HPI? [editline]4th September 2015[/editline] im very confused right now
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