[video=youtube;R95yOXPoR_s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R95yOXPoR_s[/video]
This Volvo doesn't give a fuck.
Swedish steel
[editline]5th September 2015[/editline]
Folded 20,000 times for maximum strength
I was down in Hillcrest today and guess what I found...
Tugged on my heart strings quite a bit. So good to see someone is taking care of her.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/oMByDct.jpg[/t]
Does anyone have an idea why a wheel might collect more debris than the others? I first noticed it happening to the front passenger wheel a few days ago and became worried that it had something to do with an engine leak, but I recently had my tires rotated and now that tire is on the rear passenger side with the same black soot-like debris.
Edit/ it's likely brake dust isn't it. But why only on that one rim?
[QUOTE=schnibbles;48623562]Does anyone have an idea why a wheel might collect more debris than the others? I first noticed it happening to the front passenger wheel a few days ago and became worried that it had something to do with an engine leak, but I recently had my tires rotated and now that tire is on the rear passenger side with the same black soot-like debris.
Edit/ it's likely brake dust isn't it. But why only on that one rim?[/QUOTE]
Has that brake recently been replaced?
nope
Anyone got a good guide from checking disk brakes and shock absorbers? Got a brake warning light this morning so I pulled of the front tire and have no idea if my front brakes need to be replaced. The shock absorbers looks like shit as well.
if the rotors are grooved or warped, replace them. if the pads are gone, replace them. if the calipers are sticking, replace them.
brake warning light is usually brake fluid. I don't think they make pads or rotors that know when they need to be replaced.
how many miles are on those shock absorbers?
[QUOTE=butre;48623787]if the rotors are grooved or warped, replace them. if the pads are gone, replace them. if the calipers are sticking, replace them.
brake warning light is usually brake fluid. I don't think they make pads or rotors that know when they need to be replaced.
how many miles are on those shock absorbers?[/QUOTE]
Brake warning lights lit up last time my brake pads were worn and stopped when I got them replaced.
As for pad, I'm pretty sure you should be replacing them before they're completely gone and I have no clue how thick they were when they were new.
I have no clue how far the car has been driven on the current shocks given the car is second (or possibly third or fourth) hand.
[QUOTE=download;48623771]Anyone got a good guide from checking disk brakes and shock absorbers? Got a brake warning light this morning so I pulled of the front tire and have no idea if my front brakes need to be replaced. The shock absorbers looks like shit as well.[/QUOTE]
brake pad warning light?
If you took your pads off and they are thinner than a pencil replace them while your there. And check your rotors for abnormal deep grooves or stuff of that nature.
The replacment lights normaly will come on when its afew mm's from getting to metal to metal...
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/99%20Audi%20A6/2011-11-12%2008.23.02.jpg[/t]
Old and new
The light probably went away because the pistons retracted when new pads were put in and the fluid level rose in the reservoir
I'm at the Irwindale Speedway Night of Destruction tonight. We're currently in caution after a huge 4-car incident with the late-model NASCARs. The Enduro race already happened, and Skidplate racing is next. Later on is trailer racing and a demolition derby.
e36 is sold :joy: e46 will be on the road tuesday.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/JZ4GmKH.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=download;48623826]Brake warning lights lit up last time my brake pads were worn and stopped when I got them replaced.
As for pad, I'm pretty sure you should be replacing them before they're completely gone and I have no clue how thick they were when they were new.
I have no clue how far the car has been driven on the current shocks given the car is second (or possibly third or fourth) hand.[/QUOTE]
easy way to check if the shocks are fucked is to see if any of them are leaking. That is if you're unsure how to check them by bouncing the car.
Fucking starter solenoid. You really gotta start shitting the bed now, four days before a 2800km trip.
Looks like I'll be push starting my car at least once over the trip. Really need to install a hand crank.
My e36 has issues with the gauges and cluster, some of them (and not the same ones) go whacky every now and again
Sometimes they'll either:
* not work at all
* read under or over
* read at max
A few whacks on the dash above it fixes it every single time. Maybe a loose cable behind it?
-
Also, considering offering $1000 for this to thrash and learn manual:
[url]http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dakabin/cars-vans-utes/bmw-318is-e36-97-/1088635507[/url]
[QUOTE=The Decoy;48624422]easy way to check if the shocks are fucked is to see if any of them are leaking. That is if you're unsure how to check them by bouncing the car.[/QUOTE]
I assume being covered in oily gunk is a sign of a leaking shock?
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
Scratch that, I took another look at it and I've reasonably sure the oil was flung off the CV joint.
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
I put the wheel back on and made the car bounce. On one side the shock makes a squelching noise, the other side it doesn't. The car doesn't oscillate very much however.
[QUOTE=download;48625020]I assume being covered in oily gunk is a sign of a leaking shock?
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
Scratch that, I took another look at it and I've reasonably sure the oil was flung off the CV joint.
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
I put the wheel back on and made the car bounce. On one side the shock makes a squelching noise, the other side it doesn't. The car doesn't oscillate very much however.[/QUOTE]
If it has more than 125k miles and the shocks squeak, I'd bet money on them being "blown". The problem with shocks are that it's very difficult to actually blow/break shocks.
"Blown" shocks are technically any shock which doesn't work exactly as it did when manufactured. There's multiple different valves, seals and mechanisms which make up a shock. Each part contributes differently and it's very easy for something to fail inside of one without ever being able to tell unless you have some very expensive equipment to bench test the shock and have good knowledge of the design of it.
[QUOTE=download;48623771]Anyone got a good guide from checking disk brakes and shock absorbers? Got a brake warning light this morning so I pulled of the front tire and have no idea if my front brakes need to be replaced. The shock absorbers looks like shit as well.[/QUOTE]
Check your owner's manual, it should tell you what the light means. It's most likely your pads though.
I noticed on the front right suspension of my CR-V that there appears to be a torn rubber piece that goes around the spring (now it looks like the spring has gone through it). What part might this be and how urgent is it to fix it?
We replaced the heater core this weekend
This is the old part
[t]http://i.imgur.com/2Jeend7.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/u3qGgLG.jpg[/t]
The red stuff is coolant obv
[QUOTE=cNova;48626076]We replaced the heater core this weekend
The red stuff is coolant obv[/QUOTE]
Awww c'mon man, show us the dash in bits and the lovely coolant stains in your carpet! :)
We were too busy with the car, it gave us some problems. Took longer then expected tbh
I didnt even think about making pictures
just took a small set of shitty pics of the 240GL, figured id post em here. she's a little ratty cause she's missing trim but she does what I need her to.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/MXXXZkG.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/EzUNz1i.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/YtJcGXL.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OfGGoJU.jpg[/t]
Not much done to the internals yet, though I'm thinking of doing an A/C delete just because it doesnt work anyways and I live in new hampshire so what the fuck ever, weight reduction baybeee.
apologies for the quality, taken on a Droid MAXX
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
ugh those rims need a wipedown, she hasnt had a good outside cleaning in a while
[QUOTE=No Party Hats;48626350]-240 pics-
Not much done to the internals yet, though I'm thinking of doing an A/C delete just because it doesnt work anyways and I live in new hampshire so what the fuck ever, weight reduction baybeee.
apologies for the quality, taken on a Droid MAXX[/QUOTE]
How hard was it to put the R rims on your 240? I've been planning on replacing the rims and brakes on my S80 with R ones but I know it requires some work.
Also NH Bro <3
i literally just got some adapters and they fit right on, cant remember the specifics of em though, ill have to check em out later.
on the plus side, it gives you free spacing so if you've got ~sick racing springs~ that drop you down like an inch or so under stock like me then you get to live that squat life
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
nh is best state
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
Whaddya drive? I was just at Volksbahn (euro car show up in moultonborough) in my buddy's slammed Avant 1.8, once I get the 240 all polished up I'll probably bring her around next year. It's mainly a bunch of VAG heads but im sure they'll appreciate some swede motor representation lol
My friend blew a tire on the road last night. He didn't have a tool set to do his lugs to get the spare on, so I rushed out there with mine and helped get him back on the road.
The car did not seem to like being on a slight incline, even in park with the e brake on it still managed to move on the jack and fall down the first try. Had to use his jack to get the rear settled, then got the front in the air to replace the tire.
[QUOTE=No Party Hats;48626350]just took a small set of shitty pics of the 240GL, figured id post em here. she's a little ratty cause she's missing trim but she does what I need her to.
[t]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/YuW3MWZBFPAcbdn6-XX4PSJWH9ZFSeJAaFcSmxEVBTas34WPJZf3Zr43TOEOoTcvwBw7jyi7Mcw5KVQ=w1888-h807[/t]
[t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/lYknYaEx1a1Q6ukPN6ZTymRvAVY1rCtw1d1rG4gneylXFJozJofjirAYqCF1fDz1FDeJZ1HFSULOYu0=w1888-h807[/t]
[t]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/ADAhHastr2uWviD-RLlc0vIpIMrfH-Vo6tb6g9GVmV69JscNH81WahkcB5PElNGv9d4lKvNMIAV4_ug=w1888-h807[/t]
[t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EW4OXyiiqvrrTIXUzNNr-YkdMl30PJjFKM-_BSCUpX-2HrqztSzYuA5p41ZnEDARFe6YBBglhEPFBtk=w1888-h807[/t]
Not much done to the internals yet, though I'm thinking of doing an A/C delete just because it doesnt work anyways and I live in new hampshire so what the fuck ever, weight reduction baybeee.
apologies for the quality, taken on a Droid MAXX
[editline]6th September 2015[/editline]
ugh those rims need a wipedown, she hasnt had a good outside cleaning in a while[/QUOTE]
Can't see the pictures, 403. Try [URL="http://imgur.com"]Imgur[/URL]
[QUOTE=Gulen;48626403]Can't see the pictures, 403. Try [URL="http://imgur.com"]Imgur[/URL][/QUOTE]
updated it in the original post! thanks man
I cant get plates for a couple days so I clay bared it, cleaned the wheels, and started fixing the rust spots, might get some led tail lights because these old ones are all faded and look like crap.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Jt95Xso.jpg[/t]
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