Got the bottom end back in, middle cam bearing is done so I gotta buy a set. Did a mock up out of boredom
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsl6gsyqvk.jpg[/thumb]
Air cleaner is off my cousins dart just for mockup, he put 4.10s in it and holy fuck is it ever different. Night and day from the 2.76 gears and pegleg
[QUOTE=deathmog;48636437]Sweet! If anybody has any info or any tips on it I would love to hear it.
I believe the previous owner did say that the water pump and stuff was done but I will verify again when I go to pick it up tomorrow.
Hopefully it isn't too hard to replace the switch. If it's possible can anybody take some good pictures of their brake light switch?[/QUOTE]
Switch isn't too bad. There's only 1 switch on the brake pedal.
I have a massive amount of info and tips on the car, though ot's so much that you'd have to give an idea about the general area of tips you'd like
As far as new owner tips;
Always check the oil when it's cold. Checking when the engine has ran within a few hours gives a low reading, as low as below the low mark.
Plan to have the front and rear diff, plus trans fluid+filter changed soon. If its a manual, the front diff and trans share fluid.
In autos, the front diff dipstick is on the passanger side, trans dipstick is on the drivers side. If you take it to a shop, PAY ATTENTION. I have corrected several mechanics that mixed them up.
When it comes to oil; Avoid Mobil 1. It has a high rate of sheering in Boxer engines. Rotella T5 10w30 is a diesel oil with a very high success rate in Subaru non-turbo engines. It is cheapest at Walmart.
Oil filters; Avoid Fram and Mobil 1. Fram uses a Honda filter with a 13PSI bypass valve, Mobil 1 filters (last I knew) were much smaller than OEM spec and others.
Purolator PureOne, NAPA Gold, WIX, and a few others follow the proper ~20 PSI bypass valve and sizing. I prefer Purolator due to cost, 99.9% filter efficiency, and the proper PSI rating.
[QUOTE=Jackpody;48633619]Hasn't driven properly since April this year. Now it won't start anymore either and no one knows how to work on mechanical injection. :(
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDXxQr0phWM[/media]
Bit lost for words, drove perfectly fine last year and now it won't start anymore. It'll work fine when it has started (used to start at the 17'th try, now it won't start at all). I've spent a lot of money on different parts (MFI thermostat, HT leads, cap, rotor, etc) but nothing has helped.[/QUOTE]
Id say you flooded the fuck out of it after the 3rd time.
Ya goof. Try turning her over with either too next time.
[QUOTE=Del91;48636989]Poor clutch...[/QUOTE]
I missed the fart can part. Not quite euphoric yet, I guess :suicide:
[img]https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1891008_1677032999196096_7119810813906698090_n.jpg?oh=d9cdfca1d3afcc1413220944b41b28b3&oe=566688DD[/img]
Still, I'd like to think I have points for stretched tires, no performance mods, lowered suspension, etc.
If I had to chose.. I'd say red cars are by far the worst offenders, though. So pretentious.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234052/9815%20004_zpscepwtozr.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234052/9815%20004_zpscepwtozr.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And don't get me started on BMWs... This one's fresh from Florida, just north of Miami and home of ChooChoo the rapper. Needs to be undercoated before we subject it to it's first winter in the great white bumblefuck.
[URL=http://s22.photobucket.com/user/clutch1234/media/clutch1234052/9815%20009_zpswhesduxp.jpg.html][IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/clutch1234052/9815%20009_zpswhesduxp.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
clutch, you have like 62 cool cars, still you take pictures with a calculator
Gotta clarify, the BMW is my roommate's. Nothing new added to my personal stable. but it does look so much better in front of the house than his beat to hell old Corolla!
Funny you mention that, too..the Ipod touch I use for photos is also what I use for a calc on the fly at work when I'm writing quotes. :v: I got SOOO much shit at a recent work meeting I went to when it was discovered my phone is still a Sony Ericsson W810i, too.
But speaking of cools cars, what's the state of affairs for the Supra? I can never get enough to MKIV pics, be it on a calculator or not.
[QUOTE=clutch2;48637377]Gotta clarify, the BMW is my roommate's. Nothing new added to my personal stable. but it does look so much better in front of the house than his beat to hell old Corolla!
Funny you mention that, too..the Ipod touch I use for photos is also what I use for a calc on the fly at work when I'm writing quotes. :v: I got SOOO much shit at a recent work meeting I went to when it was discovered my phone is still a Sony Ericsson W810i, too.
But speaking of cools cars, what's the state of affairs for the Supra? I can never get enough to MKIV pics, be it on a calculator or not.[/QUOTE]
I'm currently waiting for the registration certificate from the British Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency, hopefully I should be getting it this week (I've been waiting 6 weeks for that piece of paper now).
To be honest, it has been a huge hassle to make the Supra a reality. It's my little logistic-project that I'm working on. Here's the step-by-step list I'm following:
1. Inspect car - Check
2. Make list of spare parts needed - Check
3. Order and recieve correct parts - Check
4. Arrange to get Supra transported to my friends workshop - Check
5. Make my friend fix the following (for free! he's awesome!)
- Replace crank pulley - Check
- Replace timing belt - Check
- Change oil and filter - Check
- Replace totally worn clutch with new clutch - Check
- Assemble interior - Partly Check
- Change brake pads
- Install new battery - Check
6. Start car for the first time since I bought it, see how it runs - Check
- Runs smooth as a kitty cat and is generally very healthy and has a low mileage (aw yis!)
7. Realize that the car came with 0 paperwork. Do some detective work to trace previous owner and recieve paperwork - Check
8. Realize that the most important piece of paper is missing: The registration certificate - Check
9. Retrieve the registration certificate from the English DVLA because the car was never registered in Denmark - This is the step I'm at now
10. Once I get the certificate, I can get it inspected to see what's missing or needs fixing for it to be road legal
11. Fix those things
12. Get it inspected again and hopefully it will be approved
13. Now it's time to pay the dreaded Danish registration taxes, and I'll have the inspection guy do an excact estimate of the registration fee. I'm guessing it's gonna be between 50,000 DKK and 90,000 DKK (I paid 20,000 DKK for the car), but I'm in no way sure.
14. When I have the exact total I need to pay, I'll have to sell my Civic, I'm hoping to get 40,000 DKK for it.
15. When it's sold, I'll have to talk to my bank and get a loan of the remaining total amount, excluding the money I got for selling the Civic.
16. If I'm approved, then I'll be able pay the tax, get it registered, and pick up my license plates
17. Drive Supra.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/XpLzFUx.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Serj22;48637056]Nah its definitely a p71. Not a kanji car. The part on the beginning where he says "if the cops drove a cherokee, youd buy a cherokee" is I believe 100% true.[/QUOTE]
the cops around here drive tahoes and chargers but no I want a p71 tahoes and chargers are lame as hell
Nobody drives the police caprices or those terrible chargers either.
tbh, I didn't buy one because I wanna look like a cop, I bought it because in my mind, if police all across the country trusted the car to drive fast and haul drunk people around, then its good enough for me to drive fast and haul drunk people around. Even without that, the car's got a reputation for being the completely legitimate lovechild of a mustang and an F150. Plenty of hauling space, reasonably quick, good sound, and the ability to piggyback off of a good bit of the 4.6 mustang performance market. Bonus points for being quite simple to work on and have piss cheap parts, even my 2010.
[QUOTE=FordLord;48637120]Switch isn't too bad. There's only 1 switch on the brake pedal.
I have a massive amount of info and tips on the car, though ot's so much that you'd have to give an idea about the general area of tips you'd like
As far as new owner tips;
Always check the oil when it's cold. Checking when the engine has ran within a few hours gives a low reading, as low as below the low mark.
Plan to have the front and rear diff, plus trans fluid+filter changed soon. If its a manual, the front diff and trans share fluid.
In autos, the front diff dipstick is on the passanger side, trans dipstick is on the drivers side. If you take it to a shop, PAY ATTENTION. I have corrected several mechanics that mixed them up.
When it comes to oil; Avoid Mobil 1. It has a high rate of sheering in Boxer engines. Rotella T5 10w30 is a diesel oil with a very high success rate in Subaru non-turbo engines. It is cheapest at Walmart.
Oil filters; Avoid Fram and Mobil 1. Fram uses a Honda filter with a 13PSI bypass valve, Mobil 1 filters (last I knew) were much smaller than OEM spec and others.
Purolator PureOne, NAPA Gold, WIX, and a few others follow the proper ~20 PSI bypass valve and sizing. I prefer Purolator due to cost, 99.9% filter efficiency, and the proper PSI rating.[/QUOTE]
To add to changing the manual's front diff/tranny fluid, for the love of god, do *not* use something with limited-slip additives (this includes royal purple) as it will eat the hell out of the brass synchronizers.
I know this because a Subaru tech recommended that for me so I used Royal Purple, and within minutes of posting about what I'd done a billion people said drain it or kiss the synchros goodbye.
After that I went for OEM Subaru gear oil, I think it was $60 shipped to my door with faster shipping, and included enough fluid for tranny/front diff and rear diff
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48637892]Nobody drives the police caprices or those terrible chargers either.
tbh, I didn't buy one because I wanna look like a cop, I bought it because in my mind, if police all across the country trusted the car to drive fast and haul drunk people around, then its good enough for me to drive fast and haul drunk people around. Even without that, the car's got a reputation for being the completely legitimate lovechild of a mustang and an F150. Plenty of hauling space, reasonably quick, good sound, and the ability to piggyback off of a good bit of the 4.6 mustang performance market. Bonus points for being quite simple to work on and have piss cheap parts, even my 2010.[/QUOTE]
the 9c1 was good when it was sort of new but they're getting up in years and have all been converted to donks and caprices aren't very attractive cars anyway
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48637892]Nobody drives the police caprices or those terrible chargers either.
tbh, I didn't buy one because I wanna look like a cop, I bought it because in my mind, if police all across the country trusted the car to drive fast and haul drunk people around, then its good enough for me to drive fast and haul drunk people around. Even without that, the car's got a reputation for being the completely legitimate lovechild of a mustang and an F150. Plenty of hauling space, reasonably quick, good sound, and the ability to piggyback off of a good bit of the 4.6 mustang performance market. Bonus points for being quite simple to work on and have piss cheap parts, even my 2010.[/QUOTE]
They're cheap because it was supposed to be the most commonly available american car. That's why the police forces used them. Now that they no longer exist, they've moved onto the Chevy Impala and the Ford Fusion. Now you tell me if those FWD things are even remotely up to the task of catching a speeding criminal in anything other than a stock civic?
It's ok though. I don't disagree that you personally bought it because it was cheap, no worries. But you have to admit, that's pretty much the only reason people want one, and if you didn't want it to look like a cop, you'd strip it of the little badge in the back that says "Police Interceptor" but people leave it... I would personally drive a cop car, but not the kind you guys think of.
I'd go for a 60s valiant cop car, and even if it wasn't a cop car, I'd make it one, and back it up with a bullshit story I'd tell at car shows, how it belonged to a famous marshall who's name was Elroy Matthers, and he single handedly stopped the entire drug cartel, found the ark of the covenant and was the only sworn officer in history to go to the moon. He had the car christened as a ship so that he could transport it overseas legally during the aftermath of the cold war to crash it into the iron curtain and bring down the Great Wall of Communism. He was a hero.
[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzA5WDcyMA==/z/3BQAAMXQfvlSg-uH/$_35.JPG[/IMG]
Hey! Police Chargers are awesome! [B]Cheap[/B] 345HP with almost 400 ft/lbs of torque! And they already come with high performance everything. Cheapest 5K-8K car you can get with that much HP.
Also. Check out the heads on a 3.8L:
[t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kMSNA1qMHjw3TKjvl8uiSMBteHUhBlhKuW357-8OUO0Y7-JAV06Bvpw1dhNpNPEcpiBPQTqM_cVqH-z3FssJ6WhAjH7saq5juCVG1aZl8I07l_dvxCO0FKL-ukNlrv1hzsgIXFALq5HwEU1z898k-FrAz1CGhJ0ZrLb6qiB5PvkfIcjxZZ-DkEMM_EcHxBmMSzT5v8TIgRVoNMJUU99JH776OQaHoXCesxypQtb-4v1VgRel1FY825wa3-QBDQcvFNfmc9Y-EbffO9dCX5UGuifT--2Rj56LuFAfw5VTLgdaS3s3eMf4OqDjAl9ysiA9fOoYvboAFVB7cjN0XbvriYxDpzGf3G6GjXqgISi06qZbgyI6SoPFXW6pjt1sP36D27X-Fu5PxVPgPgQQojfa7K6JRxCsxifToPvAw4HVF6Rqf0kDD9ne5qSS9N8ZJr5VM0virCRshYkT_6WBTEpbBUNrTnQp5lmgQ-4Zk2J9Kq7MGH6k_-VbHVoGqY2fAUFl1ID94ETIlxPrnhAf2IaUll0=w1340-h1006-no[/t]
From measuring with my fingers, looks like a 2" in and 1.5" exhaust.
yeah but everything around that engine in the charger is complete hole
[QUOTE=Serj22;48639026]They're cheap because it was supposed to be the most commonly available american car. That's why the police forces used them. Now that they no longer exist, they've moved onto the Chevy Impala and the [B]Ford Fusion[/B]. Now you tell me if those FWD things are even remotely up to the task of catching a speeding criminal in anything other than a stock civic?
[/QUOTE]
You mean the Ford Taurus? The basic duty model uses a Mustang V6 engine and produces at minimum, 30 more hp than the old CVPI. The fancier versions that the police would bring out for catching someone have over 300hp and are AWD standard.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48638702]To add to changing the manual's front diff/tranny fluid, for the love of god, do *not* use something with limited-slip additives (this includes royal purple) as it will eat the hell out of the brass synchronizers.
I know this because a Subaru tech recommended that for me so I used Royal Purple, and within minutes of posting about what I'd done a billion people said drain it or kiss the synchros goodbye.
After that I went for OEM Subaru gear oil, I think it was $60 shipped to my door with faster shipping, and included enough fluid for tranny/front diff and rear diff[/QUOTE]
Everyone says something different about what to put in the 5 speeds, but yes, no limited slip additives and unless you have minor issues with the trans, standard recommended gear oil is fine.
Usually if you have slight issues with the gears going in when cold, grinding when cold, etc. different fluids and additives will solve that.
[QUOTE=Ferosso;48637708]\
13. Now it's time to pay the dreaded Danish registration taxes, and I'll have the inspection guy do an excact estimate of the registration fee. I'm guessing it's gonna be between 50,000 DKK and 90,000 DKK (I paid 20,000 DKK for the car), but I'm in no way sure.
[/QUOTE]
Wooow dude talk about a screamin deal. Pays to know good people, lol.
[QUOTE=FordLord;48639970]Everyone says something different about what to put in the 5 speeds, but yes, no limited slip additives and unless you have minor issues with the trans, standard recommended gear oil is fine.
Usually if you have slight issues with the gears going in when cold, grinding when cold, etc. different fluids and additives will solve that.[/QUOTE]
The point was less about the brand and more about how some additives don't play well with brass synchronizers
[QUOTE=clutch2;48640178]Wooow dude talk about a screamin deal. Pays to know good people, lol.[/QUOTE]
If anyone's wondering, I googled how much 40k DKK was and it's roughly $6,000. So he bought a Supra for $3,000 :v:
I looked on autotrader UK at subarus; WRXs and low mileage subis in perfect order for under $3000. Lucky to find an NA subi in decent order for less than 3k, let alone a WRX, which here in FL, run from 5-15k for even a shit one. I wanted to cry.
[URL="http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201508266366925?page=1&onesearchad=used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew&sort=default&price-from=0&postcode=bn28dg&radius=1500&make=subaru&search-target=usedcars&price-to=2000&channel=cars&logcode=p"]Kill[/URL] [URL="http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201508035747767?make=subaru&radius=1500&search-target=usedcars&page=6&channel=cars&price-from=0&price-to=2000&sort=default&onesearchad=used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew&postcode=bn28dg&logcode=p"] Me [/URL]
[QUOTE=Amplar;48640933]I looked on autotrader UK at subarus; WRXs and low mileage subis in perfect order for under $3000. Lucky to find an NA subi in decent order for less than 3k, let alone a WRX, which here in FL, run from 5-15k for even a shit one. I wanted to cry.
[URL="http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201508266366925?page=1&onesearchad=used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew&sort=default&price-from=0&postcode=bn28dg&radius=1500&make=subaru&search-target=usedcars&price-to=2000&channel=cars&logcode=p"]Kill[/URL] [URL="http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201508035747767?make=subaru&radius=1500&search-target=usedcars&page=6&channel=cars&price-from=0&price-to=2000&sort=default&onesearchad=used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew&postcode=bn28dg&logcode=p"] Me [/URL][/QUOTE]
Whatever you do, absolutely don't look at ones on Japanese export sites.
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700055155230150518002/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700040288530150418005/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700080274630140719001/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700060001230150404001/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700040283730141122004/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700053015330150718001/index.html[/url]
For daysssss
Sure it'll cost another $3,000 to get it over here but even then that's just about in line with what a half decent example of a comparable car is like. We have millions of Subarus here in the PNW, check out the Portland/Seattle craigslists and feel free to buy some of ours.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48640546]The point was less about the brand and more about how some additives don't play well with brass synchronizers[/QUOTE]
I appologize if I made it sound like you were focusing on brands. I was meaning to branch off of your post to add on to it.
I was basically saying; While I wish I could recommend a good, local gear oil to use; everyone else will tell you differently, so basically avoid any that have LSD additives as you said.
Me and my friend went to a stewarts for cigarettes and food before leaving upstate new york, while we're in the car smoking some guy walks out to his neon that was parked next to us and asks 'yall wanna race?'
Naturally we said fuck yeah and then unsuprisingly beat a stock neon in a Z32 up and around a big curve/straight. Then the dude pulled over and offered to let us get high at his house but we had to leave ;_;
I also may or may not have driven 100mph passing people in PA with "You're Waifu A Shit" painted on the rear window by said friend.
finished fixing the rust and got this thing on the road. Just need to wait for the paintmatched paint to come in. had to put a new battery in it since the old one was from 2004 and wasn't holding a charge. I really like it so far. also more wheels came in lol.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/lYbl0Qo.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/LZmZQgb.jpg[/t]
So, I think I just made a new car buddy friend today. I think my boss and I just agreed to work on my 300 King Quad together to get her running for hunting season before turning it into a drag quad for shits and giggles.
I'm okay with that, honestly.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48640992]Whatever you do, absolutely don't look at ones on Japanese export sites.
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700055155230150518002/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700040288530150418005/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700080274630140719001/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700060001230150404001/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700040283730141122004/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/SUBARU/IMPREZA/700053015330150718001/index.html[/url]
For daysssss
Sure it'll cost another $3,000 to get it over here but even then that's just about in line with what a half decent example of a comparable car is like. We have millions of Subarus here in the PNW, check out the Portland/Seattle craigslists and feel free to buy some of ours.[/QUOTE]
What a coincidence.. I've been looking at those Japanese auction sites a decent bit lately and it got me wondering; "Is there any money to be made importing JDM vehicles??"
I mean, up to 1990 is legal now, and that means a lot of really popular models, and within the next couple years we'll see NSXs and MKIV Supras become legal, too.
This company, for example, has obviously made a business out of it;
[url]http://www.japaneseclassicsllc.com/[/url]
Those prices are straight off their lot, already in the US, done. What I worry is that what I see in those prices, they're only a few thousand above what they sell for in Japan. A Eunos Cosmo seems to be about a $10g car, give or take. That one' selling for $15k. Figure that $3k in shipping, import fees and duties, title, etc and there's not a huge profit margin. Also figure in that to truly make a living importing cars you need to travel to Japan and hand choose these vehicles to ensure they're worth getting and not just some pretty pictures, OR have a contact / friend / partner there that you trust implicitly to handle the discovery portion.
It's an interesting idea I've been working over in my head, but haven't gotten much headway in figuring out where to go. Running a small used car lot that deals in JDM and budget daily vehicles seems like it'd be an OK business venture around here. Craigslist in full of 'it doesn't run, come get it for $200' kinds of vehicles where if you're good you can turn a $1-$2g profit in say, a week worth of work and a new engine.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48640883]If anyone's wondering, I googled how much 40k DKK was and it's roughly $6,000. So he bought a Supra for $3,000 :v:[/QUOTE]
Ow my brain
[QUOTE=clutch2;48643294]What a coincidence.. I've been looking at those Japanese auction sites a decent bit lately and it got me wondering; "Is there any money to be made importing JDM vehicles??"
I mean, up to 1990 is legal now, and that means a lot of really popular models, and within the next couple years we'll see NSXs and MKIV Supras become legal, too.
This company, for example, has obviously made a business out of it;
[url]http://www.japaneseclassicsllc.com/[/url]
Those prices are straight off their lot, already in the US, done. What I worry is that what I see in those prices, they're only a few thousand above what they sell for in Japan. A Eunos Cosmo seems to be about a $10g car, give or take. That one' selling for $15k. Figure that $3k in shipping, import fees and duties, title, etc and there's not a huge profit margin. Also figure in that to truly make a living importing cars you need to travel to Japan and hand choose these vehicles to ensure they're worth getting and not just some pretty pictures, OR have a contact / friend / partner there that you trust implicitly to handle the discovery portion.
It's an interesting idea I've been working over in my head, but haven't gotten much headway in figuring out where to go. Running a small used car lot that deals in JDM and budget daily vehicles seems like it'd be an OK business venture around here. Craigslist in full of 'it doesn't run, come get it for $200' kinds of vehicles where if you're good you can turn a $1-$2g profit in say, a week worth of work and a new engine.[/QUOTE]
at japanese auction houses there's a grading system for cars. E is broken, A is like new. all you need is a second guy, not a second guy who knows cars
Well, I can't say as I even have an otaku hikikomori contact in Japan at this present time, so either way no one is no one. Although the nice part I'd suppose is that a Japanese grading scale wouldn't be a false US grading scale like on craigslist.
"Runs pretty good, engine knocks but should just need an oil change. Might need trans fluid added, trans won't shift into any gear, shouldn't be to tough to fix."
JDM imports are going to explode in 5-6 years once the meaty part of 90s jap cars become legal. WRX, Supras, RX7s, Skylines... oh god they're going to get modded into the ground and slammed into walls by morons drifting them. Fuck.
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