I had an EK3 before the EK4 I have now. It had a 114hp D15Z6, and it was a fun little car. It wasn't fast in any way, but the combination of the light weight and 7,5k rpm was pretty fun. I also did 22 km/l once, which is very respectable for an old car like that.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;48656636][t]http://images.craigslist.org/00B0B_7ZlWIQxFwrs_600x450.jpg[/t]
[url]https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/5200898719.html[/url]
omg I want.
I just dont know anything about thoes 6.5 diesels...
I read on forums of people having lots of cracking issues and general failures...[/QUOTE]
A lot of cracking issues are similar to 6.2 cracking issues; the harmonic balancer wearing out on the back while looking good on the front, and the dual mass flywheel wearing out and going out of balance.
As far as general failures, it's possibly due to ULSD. Without the sulfur, diesel loses some of the lubricity it had when the truck was made. The ULSD switch was in 2006/2007.
This hurts the injector pump the most, but also everything in the fuel system.
Adding something like Howe's additive or Powerservice (they have summer and winter mixtures) adds back lubricity. PowerService has cetane boost and fuel system cleaner.
Some people simply add 2 stroke oil to the fuel, but it has no benefits beyond adding lubricity.
That being said; both the 6.2 and 6.5 Detroit diesels are excellent engines that simply require more knowledge than the average gas job. I have had my 6.2 Detroit for a while now and really couldn't be happier.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48655681]Speaking of transmissions, has anyone ever thought about how magical the automatic transmission is. Pressure and fluid and lots of clutch disks and whatever else changing by themselves without you having a thought about it.
[editline]10th September 2015[/editline]
Same with the diff. Some fucking voodoo engineering going on[/QUOTE]
It's all in the turbo encabulator.
[QUOTE=Serj22;48659714]I am contacting Honda of America's PR department and listing everything you've ever posted in an email. They will hire you into marketing.
Yes I've heard the term Del Slow, and that car was rediculously slow. I remember the days of SuperHonda.com there was a guy who had a RHD del sol that he put a b16 in, whole bunch of other mods, and it was featured on some car channel, where they put cars on a drag strip and talk numbers about what they assume it will do. They looked over the Delsol and said "high 16" the owner drove it down the track, and it did 16.8 or something. My reaction was wow... all that work, for a 16...
I think stock it would probably take it 30 though.[/QUOTE]
If he did a 16.8 in a B16 Del Slow something was pretty wrong lol, stock LS Integras which are 400lbs heavier and have 30 less hp will run high 15's or low 16's all day long. It sounds like he was doing something really fucking stupid like running the stock Del Sol Si D16Z6 P28 vtec ecu on a B series.
I'm telling you my EF which is 200lbs lighter stays perfectly along side an Integra, if anything would run a high 16 it would be a D15B7 Civic thus it being stock. B16's are shit beater motors anyways, someone actually swapped a non-vtec LS head onto one and it somehow made more power than a stock B16. They're basically just a cheap overbuilt B series motor meant for a Civic, B16 blocks seem to not respond to modifications anywhere near as well as the B18 blocks.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;48659853]Are you sure it isn't the gearing that makes it feel faster? My dad's Honda has a d17 in it with a 5 speed manual. First gear makes that thing feel torquey, while I imagine (haven't checked) the auto version has a higher gearing.[/QUOTE]
The D17 is actually a good bit of a stroker compared to any other D series motor, they make a good 10ft/lbs more than any other D series. The extra displacement is also all from increased stroke. Hondas all usually have a pretty short 1st gear which makes that feeling.
[QUOTE=Ferosso;48660027]I had an EK3 before the EK4 I have now. It had a 114hp D15Z6, and it was a fun little car. It wasn't fast in any way, but the combination of the light weight and 7,5k rpm was pretty fun. I also did 22 km/l once, which is very respectable for an old car like that.[/QUOTE]
VTEC-E motors are pretty sweet, I've always wanted to get one of the D15B 3 stage vtecs which jam normal SOHC VTEC and the VTEC-E into the same head. It's an absolute shame that Honda could make a better motor in 1993 which made similar power and economy to the hybrids(CR-Z) they make in 2013. I suppose it really stands for how much ahead of the time they were in the 90's or on the inverse how much they sucked in the 00's.
[QUOTE=FordLord;48661448]A lot of cracking issues are similar to 6.2 cracking issues; the harmonic balancer wearing out on the back while looking good on the front, and the dual mass flywheel wearing out and going out of balance.
As far as general failures, it's possibly due to ULSD. Without the sulfur, diesel loses some of the lubricity it had when the truck was made. The ULSD switch was in 2006/2007.
This hurts the injector pump the most, but also everything in the fuel system.
Adding something like Howe's additive or Powerservice (they have summer and winter mixtures) adds back lubricity. PowerService has cetane boost and fuel system cleaner.
Some people simply add 2 stroke oil to the fuel, but it has no benefits beyond adding lubricity.
That being said; both the 6.2 and 6.5 Detroit diesels are excellent engines that simply require more knowledge than the average gas job. I have had my 6.2 Detroit for a while now and really couldn't be happier.[/QUOTE]
I know they do seem to be plagued with alot of issues....Just been researching alot on vehicles to make a ~10k+ mile venture to Alaska and stuff. The biggest thing I've seen is the unknown about them. Break down in the middle of nowere and no one has even seen a 6.5... on the other hand break down in a 350 and you break down in the driveway of some huge Chevy nut with a barn full of parts.
I still have alot to look at for this type of thing but good god I have a raging boner for that suburban.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48656656]I don't always want to shift my damn car in order for it to move and I really honestly do find it hard to believe that you do.[/QUOTE]
Well I never found it cumbersome. Even in heavy traffic, my feet just do their own thing pretty much automatically and they never really start hurting so I've never thought "man I wish I didn't really need to do this things". The alternative is just sitting there with my hands on the steering wheel and occasionally moving my right foot.
Maybe it's just because the clutch in my car isn't "heavy" at all.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48656726]I feel generally unsafe due to no engine braking.[/QUOTE]
wait you know you can lock an auto into a lower gear right?
[editline]e[/editline]
I delivered 60 miles worth of pizzas over the span of 5 hours last night with a stickshift, that was pretty tiring. But anything short of that, I'd still choose the manual—even my current 45 min one-way commute to school.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/rrK773Z.jpg[/t]
Restored my trim with dip. Subaru seriously uses the [I]worst[/I] fucking paint and clearcoats in existence. A price to pay for extreme reliability :V
My dipping skills suck, but getting better. Finally learned that you WANT a shit ton of overspray to help peel edges. I still suck with keeping distance with the can and my pattern when spraying. Gotta do wheels next, beat to shit stock wrx rims.
It's pretty cool that plastidip will reliquefy existing dip when you coat it again- this helped me unfuck my lack of overspray and fucking up the trim when I peeled it.
[QUOTE=danjee;48662539]wait you know you can lock an auto into a lower gear right?
[editline]e[/editline]
I delivered 60 miles worth of pizzas over the span of 5 hours last night with a stickshift, that was pretty tiring. But anything short of that, I'd still choose the manual—even my current 45 min one-way commute to school.[/QUOTE]
Yes but I don't feel like controlling each and every gear nor locking into any. Also almost all of the manual mode gear boxes won't let me choose the gear I actually want to be in because of transmission computer nannies. For instance fuck the Chevy Mailibu, I want 5th gear at 45mph and I want 2nd at 30mph
I also don't like how abrupt the brakes on an automatic are, I feel like all of the new automatic cars have 50% of the braking on the first 1/32" of pedal travel.
Automatic transmissions are generally pretty derp until just very recently when manufacturers finally started to figure out how to make a competent automatic. Given the choice I'd pick a well sorted CVT over an automatic for a daily. Although, I'm really looking forward to driving one of the new K Series DCT 8 speeds or the ZF 9 speed on the J series motors.
[QUOTE=Amplar;48662549][t]http://i.imgur.com/rrK773Z.jpg[/t]
Restored my trim with dip. Subaru seriously uses the [I]worst[/I] fucking paint and clearcoats in existence. A price to pay for extreme reliability :V
My dipping skills suck, but getting better. Finally learned that you WANT a shit ton of overspray to help peel edges. I still suck with keeping distance with the can and my pattern when spraying. Gotta do wheels next, beat to shit stock wrx rims.
It's pretty cool that plastidip will reliquefy existing dip when you coat it again- this helped me unfuck my lack of overspray and fucking up the trim when I peeled it.[/QUOTE]
Platidip and conventional paints fade really quick in direct sunlight, if you park in a garage it should be okay but if you park outside in California for instance you'll want to use a quality trim paint like SEM Trim Black.
[QUOTE=FordLord;48661448]A lot of cracking issues are similar to 6.2 cracking issues; the harmonic balancer wearing out on the back while looking good on the front, and the dual mass flywheel wearing out and going out of balance.
As far as general failures, it's possibly due to ULSD. Without the sulfur, diesel loses some of the lubricity it had when the truck was made. The ULSD switch was in 2006/2007.
This hurts the injector pump the most, but also everything in the fuel system.
Adding something like Howe's additive or Powerservice (they have summer and winter mixtures) adds back lubricity. PowerService has cetane boost and fuel system cleaner.
Some people simply add 2 stroke oil to the fuel, but it has no benefits beyond adding lubricity.
That being said; both the 6.2 and 6.5 Detroit diesels are excellent engines that simply require more knowledge than the average gas job. I have had my 6.2 Detroit for a while now and really couldn't be happier.[/QUOTE]
for old engines I always mix a little bit of 2 stroke oil with ulsd. not much, like 500:1. not sure it does anything other than make me feel better but it can't hurt at that ratio
My civic broke my civic broke my civic broke fuck.
It died at an intersection and what a shitty day it got towed and $180 later its back home crank-nostartsing.
fUCK
cranks but doesn't start is usually something simple
[QUOTE=DPKiller;48662091]I know they do seem to be plagued with alot of issues....Just been researching alot on vehicles to make a ~10k+ mile venture to Alaska and stuff. The biggest thing I've seen is the unknown about them. Break down in the middle of nowere and no one has even seen a 6.5... on the other hand break down in a 350 and you break down in the driveway of some huge Chevy nut with a barn full of parts.
I still have alot to look at for this type of thing but good god I have a raging boner for that suburban.[/QUOTE]
A lot of the issues are incredibly simple to fix or prevent. If you want reliability for a wilderness trip, go with 84+ 6.2. No turbo issues, no first year issues, etc.
The 6.5 isn't bad at all, but like you said, most don't know much about it and you need to be your own mechanic.
[editline]11th September 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=butre;48662940]for old engines I always mix a little bit of 2 stroke oil with ulsd. not much, like 500:1. not sure it does anything other than make me feel better but it can't hurt at that ratio[/QUOTE]
It's recommended to use about a 200:1 ratio for the best price to performance effects.
Usually at that mixture, you will hear the injector pump quiet down. Just make sure it's not red oil unless yours is strictly a farm rig.
[QUOTE=Del91;48657490]Manuals should be a requirement for low HP econoboxes[/QUOTE]
This, I will agree to.
[QUOTE=Del91;48657490]Manuals should be a requirement for low HP econoboxes[/QUOTE]
Absolutely. But it should be illegal for station wagons made by Subaru
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;48663115]My civic broke my civic broke my civic broke fuck.
It died at an intersection and what a shitty day it got towed and $180 later its back home crank-nostartsing.
fUCK[/QUOTE]
Check fuses with a multimeter, make sure the fuel pump primes when you key on then after that test the distributor with a multimeter.
There's not much that will prevent it from running but the only remotely common thing in the engine bay that will prevent running is the distributor. If it's not the dizzy then it's either electronic(ecu, wiring, main relay, ignition switch) or fuel pretty much.
Oh and make sure it has enough fuel in the tank of course lol.
Speaking of which, does anyone have a good guide to using a multimeter?
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48663564]Speaking of which, does anyone have a good guide to using a multimeter?[/QUOTE]
Totally depends on the application, sometimes you check resistance and sometimes you check what the output voltage from the sensor is. Often you'll also want to test in certain locations to make sure that the results are within spec where you are checking instead of at what you are testing.
So I pulled into the shop today, and talked with the mechanics for a bit. I asked them how much a tire rotation would cost, they said they'd do it for 20 bucks. I said alright, and then they told me to go drive the car up onto the lift...
So I get in my car, turn the key, starter whines away, but no start. After some tests, the mechanics figure out my coil had gone...
They told me a new coil would be $185, but I'm glad Autohausaz stocks Bosch coils for $76 bucks, and they last 30 years...
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;48663115]My civic broke my civic broke my civic broke fuck.
It died at an intersection and what a shitty day it got towed and $180 later its back home crank-nostartsing.
fUCK[/QUOTE]
If you check the fuses and they seem good try to push start it if its manual, usually if that works it would be the starter just did a replacement on the Integra with it only cranking.
uuh how did your integra crank over with a bad starter? that just doesnt make sense to me
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48663559]Check fuses with a multimeter, make sure the fuel pump primes when you key on then after that test the distributor with a multimeter.
There's not much that will prevent it from running but the only remotely common thing in the engine bay that will prevent running is the distributor. If it's not the dizzy then it's either electronic(ecu, wiring, main relay, ignition switch) or fuel pretty much.
Oh and make sure it has enough fuel in the tank of course lol.[/QUOTE]
Did some diag with a food online, looks like the main relay for the injectors/pump
[editline]11th September 2015[/editline]
Dood rather.
[QUOTE=c0nk3r;48664110]Did some diag with a food online, looks like the main relay for the injectors/pump
[editline]11th September 2015[/editline]
Dood rather.[/QUOTE]
I'm used of main relays just preventing the car from starting but I suppose it's possible it could keep it from running as well. I'd just pocket a spare one from the junkyard and test with that, local parts stores are gonna charge you like $100 for a $30 part.
$50 for that little prongy fucker.
I'm at the point of down another pack and drink a few more bud. I literally will shit my cock if this fixes it.
You cannot comprehend my day.
I think you can, but still, FUCK.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;48663968]uuh how did your integra crank over with a bad starter? that just doesnt make sense to me[/QUOTE]
I mean it didn't crank it just made the click noises you would get when the starter was bad. Once we got to push start it up figured it was starter replaced it and it starts back up without being pushed. Read his post wrong didn't see that his engine actually cranked over instead of clicking woops.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;48663564]Speaking of which, does anyone have a good guide to using a multimeter?[/QUOTE]
A guide as in how to use it? or specific use for say testing a TPS (throttle position sensor)
speaking of multi-meters, I want to buy an analogue one. Not because I'm an accidental hipster but I enjoyed using them in training courses. Plus with an analogue, you can see pulses much easier than with a digital, unless you have a $2000 Fluke meter.
Also by chance I drove an auto 07 Impreza today and I wish it was a manual. The trans had a mind of its own and would only downshift when I had my foot to the floor. 80% throttle from a stand still? lets start in second! It was alright when in manual mode
[QUOTE=butre;48663187]cranks but doesn't start is usually something simple[/QUOTE]
last time it happened to a friend of mine it was the timing belt that snapped
[QUOTE=Ldesu;48665448]last time it happened to a friend of mine it was the timing belt that snapped[/QUOTE]
timing belt is a good place to start on a honda
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;48667020][url]http://www.heraldscotland.com/opinion/13713677.Joys_of_pootling_along_in_the_car/?ref=twtrec[/url]
lol[/QUOTE]
from the article: The level of fancy of the car is in direct proportion to the level of morality of the driver. You don't get boy racers in a Fiat 500.
oh how wrong she is
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