300 CI would be fuckin huge
[editline]21st September 2015[/editline]
That's 4L, a hayabusa is like 1.2L
Ok. I wasn't sure.
So what are good manufacturers and what are some to avoid?
Kawasaki Ninjas are pretty well regarded, Honda too. There are a couple Chinese brands out there that sell knock offs but they're junk iirc
[editline]21st September 2015[/editline]
Disclaimer: I don't own a motorcycle, but have thought about getting one
Got my paint all setup in a shopping cart online ready to buy through TCP global. Just gotta wait a few weeks to purchase, then have a portable car spray booth I'm setting up, gonna remove ALL the vinyl, most of the old paint down to the delaminating layer, then do some body work, hit it with 2 part epoxy primer, sculpt it gently, and lay down the color. The paint is gonna run about $300 just for the paint, reducers, and hardeners, and I have everything else. I'm doing single stage paint for a more classic look. And to those wondering the color's changing completely. No more bronze.
[QUOTE=Del91;48734769]Kawasaki Ninjas are pretty well regarded, Honda too. There are a couple Chinese brands out there that sell knock offs but they're junk iirc
[editline]21st September 2015[/editline]
Disclaimer: I don't own a motorcycle, but have thought about getting one[/QUOTE]
Looking at the Kawasaki's now.
Should I stay under a certain displacement? Seems like the majority of them are 600+ ccs
Slowly but surely fixing all the problems with my car. The battery Pep Boys gave me was a dud, so they replaced it for free, replaced the bad LED in the HVAC panel, and the burned out tail light bulb. All that's left is to replace the squeaky bushing in the right front somewhere and get the bad spotty repaint on the bumper cover touched up.
Well from what I saw on their website most of their line is within my budget. It'd be something I want to finance, and was thinking under $10,000 and a lot of Kawasaki's stuff is there or under.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;48734824]Looking at the Kawasaki's now.
Should I stay under a certain displacement? Seems like the majority of them are 600+ ccs[/QUOTE]
Most people recommend those Ninja 250s or whatever they're called because they're cheap, and it doesn't make you cry quite so much if you dump it or destroy it. If you're going with a supersport, I'd say stay well under 600ccs. A Ninja ZX-6R (a 600cc supersport) makes around 120 horsepower and 50 some odd foot pounds of torque - that may not be much for a car, but it's pretty nutty for a bike, and especially nutty for a first bike. Look for something that produces 30-50 horsepower and maybe 40-50 foot pounds torque. It'll give you enough room to grow, while also being relatively 'safe' for a new rider.
[editline]21st September 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;48735661]Well from what I saw on their website most of their line is within my budget. It'd be something I want to finance, and was thinking under $10,000 and a lot of Kawasaki's stuff is there or under.[/QUOTE]
Don't buy a brand new bike as your first, unless you're loaded and can afford to be reamed by insurance.
So stay within 250-350cc for a first? ok.
I wasn't thinking brand new, I was just basing their msrp for brand new off what I can afford. I'm most likely going to go to a dealership and find a newer used bike that I can finance. I can't afford to buy flat out off craigslist or something but I can afford to finance.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;48735829]So stay within 250-350cc for a first? ok.
I wasn't thinking brand new, I was just basing their msrp for brand new off what I can afford. I'm most likely going to go to a dealership and find a newer used bike that I can finance. I can't afford to buy flat out off craigslist or something but I can afford to finance.[/QUOTE]
That sounds good, yeah. Just make sure you leave enough cash for gear.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;48735883]That sounds good, yeah. Just make sure you leave enough cash for gear.[/QUOTE]
Well I already have a really nice pair of leather steel toed work boots with high ankles. Is it good enough to just do a helmet and a riding jacket if I always wear jeans?
Some poor guy squeezed his Toyota Corolla between my car and someone elses, he took a ton of paint off of his bumper via my front license plate somehow. My car was unscathed aside from a bent to hell license plate...
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48734350] isn't your car going in for another rebuilt transmission? Did the same place replace your clutch? I'd demand to know what clutch they used and where they sourced it from then request them to replace the clutch with an Exedy or other quality brand name clutch along with ensuring they resurface/replace the flywheel. Rockauto has a wholesale closeout flywheel for $25 if you want to order the parts yourself for them.[/QUOTE]
A shop downtown changed out my clutch. The transmission shop is uptown and near where I work. The transmission shop has orders to put all the components they are removing in a box so I can deliver them to the shop that installed the clutch originally. There's not a whole lot they can do out of warranty but they said that if I bring the nuked clutch in they will try to see if they can get a refund on that and potentially partially honor the warranty. Also, I gave both shops the other's phone numbers because they both had questions they wanted to ask and I wasn't about to go play a game of tag for them.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;48735905]Well I already have a really nice pair of leather steel toed work boots with high ankles. Is it good enough to just do a helmet and a riding jacket if I always wear jeans?[/QUOTE]
Depends on the boot. Mostly you want a shank in the sole, and good stitching so that it doesn't come totally apart. Motorcycle leather is made of a different sort of leather than most things are and so is more abrasion resistant, so keep that in mind.
Jeans will rarely survive a lowside, and don't have armor for a high side, but it all comes down to the risk you're willing to take. Broken bones suck, so personally I would recommend at least armored jeans with the stronger, more abrasive resistant fabric.
Same sorta thing with riding jackets. Some cheaper ones have decent material strength, but poor stitch strength, and so they may come apart pretty easily. If you're looking for armor (definitely recommended if you do a lot of highway riding), you can find mesh armor jackets for $100-200 that you can put under your choice of jacket that will do you well.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;48735978]Depends on the boot. Mostly you want a shank in the sole, and good stitching so that it doesn't come totally apart. Motorcycle leather is made of a different sort of leather than most things are and so is more abrasion resistant, so keep that in mind.
Jeans will rarely survive a lowside, and don't have armor for a high side, but it all comes down to the risk you're willing to take. Broken bones suck, so personally I would recommend at least armored jeans with the stronger, more abrasive resistant fabric.
Same sorta thing with riding jackets. Some cheaper ones have decent material strength, but poor stitch strength, and so they may come apart pretty easily. If you're looking for armor (definitely recommended if you do a lot of highway riding), you can find mesh armor jackets for $100-200 that you can put under your choice of jacket that will do you well.[/QUOTE]
Good info, thanks. Got any reputable brands that aren't too expensive I can check out?
Also my boots are Lacrosse Quad Comfort 4x6 Steel Toe Workboots. [url=http://www.lacrossefootwear.com/quad-comfortr-4x6-steel-toe-work-boots.html]these[/url]. They seem really well made.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;48736103]Good info, thanks. Got any reputable brands that aren't too expensive I can check out?
Also my boots are Lacrosse Quad Comfort 4x6 Steel Toe Workboots. [url=http://www.lacrossefootwear.com/quad-comfortr-4x6-steel-toe-work-boots.html]these[/url]. They seem really well made.[/QUOTE]
Hmm. I've never had a boot with a nylon shank. If you grab the toe and the heel, can you twist it significantly? If you can, find a new pair of boots. Otherwise, it should do for now, but you may want to look into new boots. I don't know why, but they just look thin.
Icon is making some good stuff for fair prices, but there are a lot of brands. Check out Revzilla. They've got a good selection and great customer service.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;48736525]Hmm. I've never had a boot with a nylon shank. If you grab the toe and the heel, can you twist it significantly? If you can, find a new pair of boots. Otherwise, it should do for now, but you may want to look into new boots. I don't know why, but they just look thin.
Icon is making some good stuff for fair prices, but there are a lot of brands. Check out Revzilla. They've got a good selection and great customer service.[/QUOTE]
Twist it how?
If I bend it inwards (toe towards the heel) it bends easily where the steel toe cap ends.
If I try to twist it by turning the toe and heel in opposite directions it barely moves.
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;48734373]I want to get a motorcycle in the future. Something with a sport posture style frame. Can y'all recommend something not too expensive and decent for a beginner? I really don't know much about motorcycles.[/QUOTE]
Honda CBR500R. it's not some stupid fast thing that'll only get you into trouble but it's not so slow you rev the rings off on interstate either. more importantly it won't either kill you right away as a fist bike or be disappointingly slow in 6 months
that's if you're buying new, if you want something older (and cheaper) then something like a CBR600F or a CBR400 might be better. honda bikes are sort of boring compared to a triumph or something but they're super reliable and plenty quick
[QUOTE=pentium;48731741]I blew the clutch.
[/QUOTE]
Oh dear..
[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;48736554]Twist it how?
If I bend it inwards (toe towards the heel) it bends easily where the steel toe cap ends.
If I try to twist it by turning the toe and heel in opposite directions it barely moves.[/QUOTE]
The latter: twisting the toe clockwise and heel counter clockwise, or vice versa. Put a lotta muscle into it, because crash forces are pretty significant. If it doesn't bend, that's great.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;48736767]The latter: twisting the toe clockwise and heel counter clockwise, or vice versa. Put a lotta muscle into it, because crash forces are pretty significant. If it doesn't bend, that's great.[/QUOTE]
Doesn't bend much.
[QUOTE=ramirez!;48735978]Depends on the boot. Mostly you want a shank in the sole, and good stitching so that it doesn't come totally apart. Motorcycle leather is made of a different sort of leather than most things are and so is more abrasion resistant, so keep that in mind.
Jeans will rarely survive a lowside, and don't have armor for a high side, but it all comes down to the risk you're willing to take. Broken bones suck, so personally I would recommend at least armored jeans with the stronger, more abrasive resistant fabric.
Same sorta thing with riding jackets. Some cheaper ones have decent material strength, but poor stitch strength, and so they may come apart pretty easily. If you're looking for armor (definitely recommended if you do a lot of highway riding), you can find mesh armor jackets for -200 that you can put under your choice of jacket that will do you well.[/QUOTE]
You forgot to mention the worst part about the jeans: They'll burn into your skin.
Ive got a pair of duluth trading company firehose pants that I wear on my longer rides. I dont think theyre quite as good as kevlar pants for negating road rash, but theyre much comfier. much better protection than jeans.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;48737787]Ive got a pair of duluth trading company firehose pants that I wear on my longer rides. I dont think theyre quite as good as kevlar pants for negating road rash, but theyre much comfier. much better protection than jeans.[/QUOTE]
Duluth Trade Co sells clothing items that working men need and I love every single one of them
Question; in all my subarus, I've been able to shift to neutral without the clutch if i pull it out of gear like half a second after i lift off the gas; it pulls out like butter. Any later and it does not disengage (has it matched rpm?)
Is this safe for the gearbox? my TOB is going out; I'd like to use the clutch as little as possible. (02 wrx)
It wears on your synchros, don't do it, and get your TOB fixed.
Picked up another 01 cummins sport for $5000
[t]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Mobile Uploads/image_zpspiuugdyx.jpg[/t]
Loaded with leather and every option except a sliding rear and the holy shit handle + lighted sunvisor mirrors which ill try and put in. Body is pretty beat, gonna try my hand at bodywork and just chip at replacing everything slowly.
•35" tires with eagle rims
•locker in the rear
•tuner
•RBP exhaust,
•5 speed
•AFE intake + manifold
•banks exhaust brake (so much fun)
•1100hp mechanical lift pump with additional fuel filters
•roda deaco engine shutoff valve
•o ringed head for 70psi (35psi at the moment),
•150hp injectors
•included $1000 headlights
•extra rear leafs for towing +airbags in the back
•dual disc clutch
•boost + egt + oil pressure guages
•4 wheel discs
probably some other things im missing.
Just gonna be a winter rig, too good of a deal to pass up. Duster 440 is complete, got a few days off to put it in.
How much power you think it's pushing right now?
"Holy shit handles"
:v:
Why are there so many cheap vehicles where you are.
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