• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
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[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48780986]What type of wiring harness do I need? What about steering wheel controls?[/QUOTE] You'll need a Civic harness, and a Jensen harness, as well as color codes for both. As for steering wheels controls, I've used Connects2 in both my mom's and my car and had no trouble, check if it fits your stereo and car though. Also, the connects2 controller uses the ISO connector, so you'll need a female and male ISO connector, but then you can probably get premade harnesses for both your car and stereo.
[QUOTE=Gulen;48781306]You'll need a Civic harness, and a Jensen harness, as well as color codes for both. As for steering wheels controls, I've used Connects2 in both my mom's and my car and had no trouble, check if it fits your stereo and car though. Also, the connects2 controller uses the ISO connector, so you'll need a female and male ISO connector, but then you can probably get premade harnesses for both your car and stereo.[/QUOTE] When I'm searching for this stuff, will normal Civic stuff suffice? Or is there something specific about the Si model as far as electronics go?
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48780847]So I got my replacement dash cover to fit a dual din navi system, along with my power wiring kit today. Looking at the below stereo. What else do I need to install this in my 2013 Civic Si? [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRLICIE?gwSec=1&refRID=DGTYB68KMW4MQHS4HXES&ref_=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_3[/url][/QUOTE] Supposedly; [Url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4PJC9K/ref=pd_aw_fbt_422_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NK2QPMV6DPZ8GCMV82X[/url] [Url]http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1729-Wiring-Harness-2008-Up/dp/B001JT3NZK[/url] [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E3MLB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1443467804&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=40-hd11[/url] Amazon says they don't work with 2013 Civics, though Honda forums and the manufacturers state they do.
[QUOTE=FordLord;48781390]Supposedly; [Url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B4PJC9K/ref=pd_aw_fbt_422_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NK2QPMV6DPZ8GCMV82X[/url] [Url]http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1729-Wiring-Harness-2008-Up/dp/B001JT3NZK[/url] [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E3MLB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1443467804&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=40-hd11[/url] Amazon says they don't work with 2013 Civics, though Honda forums and the manufacturers state they do.[/QUOTE] I noticed stuff like that too. Crutchfield said that stereo works, but Amazon says it doesn't. I'd trust Crutchfield over Amazon, though.
update on that 05' s40: called up the dealership and they know nothing about the car since it was bought in an auction. now i gotta get a carfax on it, but that's going to take some time since i don't have the money for it right now.
[t]http://i58.tinypic.com/29xwxz5.jpg[/t] [t]http://i59.tinypic.com/2ds24iw.jpg[/t] [t]http://i57.tinypic.com/20rscp.jpg[/t] [t]http://i62.tinypic.com/1j0yub.jpg[/t] I miss the AA subforum..
So... some dude said he was gonna contact me this week sometime to look at the Subaru (I'm selling it)
Waterpump just noped the fuck out at 7k RPM, headgasket seems to be ok, no water in the cylinders, head seams ok. Fuuuuck D:
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;48781740][t]http://i58.tinypic.com/29xwxz5.jpg[/t] [t]http://i59.tinypic.com/2ds24iw.jpg[/t] [t]http://i57.tinypic.com/20rscp.jpg[/t] [t]http://i62.tinypic.com/1j0yub.jpg[/t] I miss the AA subforum..[/QUOTE] Did you ever get a turbo back on?
[QUOTE=TonyTheBean;48781570]update on that 05' s40: called up the dealership and they know nothing about the car since it was [B]bought in an auction[/B]. now i gotta get a carfax on it, but that's going to take some time since i don't have the money for it right now.[/QUOTE] [B]AVOID THAT CAR LIKE THE FUCKING PLAGUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/B] also, the dealer should provide you the Carfax free of charge.... but that's not why you should avoid it
[t]https://motoped.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/IMG_3742-Edit.jpg[/t] I kind of really want one of these. 125cc engine... Max speed of over 40mph. Yes please. But.. My god.. [img]http://i.imgur.com/7CKWdNM.png[/img]
Just get a honda hobbit and do a little performance work on it. 500$ tops
[url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-tcomps10-10-single-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer-with-enclosure-black/7752088.p?id=1218859509039&skuId=7752088[/url] Opinions?
[QUOTE=Slithers;48782540][B]AVOID THAT CAR LIKE THE FUCKING PLAGUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/B] also, the dealer should provide you the Carfax free of charge.... but that's not why you should avoid it[/QUOTE] yeah i did some extra research on the dealer and ended up sadly removing it off my list. now i'm down to about 3-4 S40's, 2 slightly out of my budget (although i'm already planning on adding in some of my own money) and 1 (actually a 2005 S60R) is in an upcoming auction.
[QUOTE=TonyTheBean;48782822]yeah i did some extra research on the dealer and ended up sadly removing it off my list. now i'm down to about 3-4 S40's, 2 slightly out of my budget (although i'm already planning on adding in some of my own money) and 1 (actually a 2005 S60R) is in an upcoming auction.[/QUOTE] What kind of auction? You need to be really careful with auction cars, especially ones from dealer only auctions. If another dealer tells you a car was bought from an auction and they know nothing, ask who the seller was. You will have better luck with an auction car if it was sold by a new car dealer, since that means it was someones trade in. Don't buy anything where a used car dealer was the seller at the auction. Those, are bad news all day every day. You are better off buying direct from the previous owner than from a dealer. Owners looking to get rid of their car are more motivated, generally don't bullshit you, won't pressure you into buying, and may even move a bit on price. I personally will never go to a used car dealer again after the hell I went through when I brought my car into the shop because it didn't run. The guy was pretty obvious with his intent to get me to trade my car in for scrap value and get a loan for one of his cars for sale. I took my car elsewhere and drove it away the next morning after paying $95.70 in repairs...
[QUOTE=Lerlth;48782690][t]https://motoped.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/IMG_3742-Edit.jpg[/t] I kind of really want one of these. 125cc engine... Max speed of over 40mph. Yes please. But.. My god.. [img]http://i.imgur.com/7CKWdNM.png[/img][/QUOTE] motopeds are slow as hell. I could build you a bike that'll get you to 60+ with less than half the displacement and cost, plus is lighter, easier to repair, and every bit as durable.
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48782788][url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-tcomps10-10-single-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer-with-enclosure-black/7752088.p?id=1218859509039&skuId=7752088[/url] Opinions?[/QUOTE] Solid if you're looking to add just a nice little bump, not for blasting rap, etc. Especially if you're in a hot hatch. Being in a coupe/sedan it may leave you wanting a little. How much bass are you looking to get, a little to supplement the music, or a lot to really feel it? I'm glad you're not looking at that 'android' headunit thing anymore. Still not a huge fan of the Jensen but if you're on a budget it'll 'work' if you're got a couple hundred more left I really suggest something else. Something Kenwood if you want built in navi (or something carplay / android auto capable if you've got a smartphone) For your Civic SI the parts you'll need are; Dash kit; Metra 95-7882B Wiring harness; This has 2 options.. If you are NOT factory amplified; Metra 70-1729 If you ARE factory amplified; Metra 70-1730 Antenna Adapter; Metra 40-HD11 Steering wheel interface;Axxess ASWC-1 You'll need panel popper tools, philips screwdriver, strippers, crimpers, crimp caps, zip ties, and 8mm socket / ratchet. That's it as far as I remember on that car.
Just bought these two items.. Already had the Metra 95-7882B kit. [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRLICIE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00[/url] [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GN5K45C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00[/url]
That 4ch amp you just purchased, are you planning on upgrading / amplifying the speakers in the car with it, or would you like it to run a pair of subs?
[QUOTE=clutch2;48784028]That 4ch amp you just purchased, are you planning on upgrading / amplifying the speakers in the car with it, or would you like it to run a pair of subs?[/QUOTE] I am looking at a single sub to connect to that amp. Maybe way down the road I'll upgrade my speakers. I'll probably supercharge my car first, though.
So with that amp you need to understand that it has 4 channels of output. You can combine 2 channels (called bridging) twice to essentially turn it into a 2 channel amp, and you will have 180 watts x 2 chan of power from it. Those 2 channels will also *only* be able to play down to 4 ohms. So a 2 ohm sub will NOT work. If you're already locked into that amp you'd be best off to get a 4ohm sub that wants about 200w rms, then save the other 2 channels for powering a nice pair of front speakers. Another option would be to get a dual voicecoil sub that requires about 400wrms or so. Then you wire each of the 2 'bridged' channels to one of the voice coils of the subs. Think of it like wiring up 2x 4ohm subs, basically. If you want to run a low power sub and use the other 2 channels for speakers I've found this Kenwood runs pretty well on low power; [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kenwood-performance-series-12-single-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer-black/4868454.p?id=1218558349775&skuId=4868454[/url] Otherwise something like the Alpine Type S, which is dual voice coil, would soak up all 360w that amp has to offer to it. [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine-12-dual-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer-black/4769785.p?id=1218524494220&skuId=4769785[/url] I can explain / draw to to wire it for you, too, depending on which choice you go with. Feel free to PM me, just in case I miss a post or something.
I don't want a low power sub. I already have decent speakers in my car, just no thump to it at all. Obviously I already bought that amp/head unit so whatever sub you'd recommend, I'm open to. I've been reading good shit about Kicker. A guy I work with got a Rockford Fosgate that sounds fucking orgasmic.
Problem with Kicker is they currently don't have a dual voice coil sub that you can wire the way it would need to be wired with that amp. If we wanted to roll with a little older stuff, a DVC 4ohm Kicker CVR would be a good choice; [url]http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CVR124-Dual-CompVR-Subwoofer/dp/B0037G0OZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443492172&sr=8-1&keywords=Kicker+CVR+dvc+4[/url] Otherwise Rockford is real good stuff, a DVC 4ohm P3 would be a good choice; [url]http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-10-500-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443492103&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+dvc+4+ohm[/url] The DVC 4ohm P2 would be an OK choice, but the amp would be a little big for it; [url]http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-10-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXI8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1443492103&sr=8-4&keywords=rockford+dvc+4+ohm[/url] TBH if you'd like to roll Rockford, I'd snatch up that P3 there.
[QUOTE=clutch2;48784230]Problem with Kicker is they currently don't have a dual voice coil sub that you can wire the way it would need to be wired with that amp. If we wanted to roll with a little older stuff, a DVC 4ohm Kicker CVR would be a good choice; [url]http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-CVR124-Dual-CompVR-Subwoofer/dp/B0037G0OZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443492172&sr=8-1&keywords=Kicker+CVR+dvc+4[/url] Otherwise Rockford is real good stuff, a DVC 4ohm P3 would be a good choice; [url]http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-10-500-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443492103&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+dvc+4+ohm[/url] The DVC 4ohm P2 would be an OK choice, but the amp would be a little big for it; [url]http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-10-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXI8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1443492103&sr=8-4&keywords=rockford+dvc+4+ohm[/url] TBH if you'd like to roll Rockford, I'd snatch up that P3 there.[/QUOTE] Can you recommend a loaded enclosure? PM me, about to crash. This thread gets away from me after a few hours.
[QUOTE=Slithers;48783688]What kind of auction? You need to be really careful with auction cars, especially ones from dealer only auctions. If another dealer tells you a car was bought from an auction and they know nothing, ask who the seller was. You will have better luck with an auction car if it was sold by a new car dealer, since that means it was someones trade in. Don't buy anything where a used car dealer was the seller at the auction. Those, are bad news all day every day. You are better off buying direct from the previous owner than from a dealer. Owners looking to get rid of their car are more motivated, generally don't bullshit you, won't pressure you into buying, and may even move a bit on price. I personally will never go to a used car dealer again after the hell I went through when I brought my car into the shop because it didn't run. The guy was pretty obvious with his intent to get me to trade my car in for scrap value and get a loan for one of his cars for sale. I took my car elsewhere and drove it away the next morning after paying $95.70 in repairs...[/QUOTE] The S60R is being auctioned off in an impound auction. Although its likely that I wont be able to get it because my dad doesn't really want to do any car shopping without me there. If it's still being auctioned off in 3 weeks, sure i'll check it out. Someone on swedespeed just PM'd me about potentially buying their 05' s40 but they have 0 posts (joined 6 months ago though) so it seems a bit sketchy.
Hey guys, looking into rims for the Subie. I'm shit at wheel and tire fitment, but I have Cooper Weathermaster tires I want to put onto a new set of rims. My tires are 205/55r16 - will they fit on these? [url]http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=MT16705MT&wheelMake=Monte+TITANO&wheelModel=MT1+Piana&wheelFinish=Matte+Titanium&showRear=no&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Impreza+2.5TS+Wagon&autoYear=2002&autoModClar=[/url] Thanks!
[QUOTE=butre;48783798]motopeds are slow as hell. I could build you a bike that'll get you to 60+ with less than half the displacement and cost, plus is lighter, easier to repair, and every bit as durable.[/QUOTE] Tell me your secrets! I'm looking for something that's not a motorcycle, but motorized. Something to cruise around town. I'm tired of taking my Charger out to go across town. "But Lerlth, what about walking!?" Hey! We're in the Automotive Addicts thread! Heretic!
Hey, what's wrong with driving the Charger across town? Also, speaking of: I finally figured out today with all of our rain why I keep eating through fog lights like candy. Had two inches worth of Headlight fluid in my driver's side fog lamp housing today when I got to work after it's rained for four days straight.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;48784623]Hey, what's wrong with driving the Charger across town? [/QUOTE] Hey, you and I both know these things weren't meant for cruising around rural towns! I have a way funner time driving my single cab Dakota around, much lower gear and torque no matter what. I just think I shouldn't be wasted gas and street space to go half a mile.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;48784412]Tell me your secrets! I'm looking for something that's not a motorcycle, but motorized. Something to cruise around town. I'm tired of taking my Charger out to go across town. "But Lerlth, what about walking!?" Hey! We're in the Automotive Addicts thread! Heretic![/QUOTE] Im currently working on attaching my old 36cc weed wacker motor to the back wheel of my shitty bicycle on a swingarm. I was originally thinking of attatching a lever or something to engage it and having the throttle cable going to a thumb lever on the handlebars, but I've decided now I am putting a jockey shifter on it and mounting the throttle on that. Looks cooler, feels badass, and with 3 bolts could be 100% swapped to almost any other bike. no routing throttle cables, no extra mounting points, nothing. 3 bolts.
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