• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
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[QUOTE=Ldesu;48811845]I'm guessing you of all people on Facepunch have [I]loads of experience[/I] with Beetles, right? [editline]2nd October 2015[/editline] I forgot to mention the carburetors are Solex. The same brand as all original carburetors on Beetles[/QUOTE] They just have goo-boos.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;48811943]Also, if he were to go for a CE6 Accord between 95-97 in the future he could easily swap in a J series engine that would mate right up to the MPZA tranny the car comes with. Not to mention the various swap-mod kits for the "more popular" 4 banger versions. In the same respect, stay the total fuck away from any V6 Accord ranging from 98 to 2003, all those transmissions are garbage, under developed, badly constructed hunks of shit that self-destruct anywhere from 15k to 60k miles.[/QUOTE] While I'm not sure the former is exactly a selling point for someone just looking for a car, F20B. :v: I'd just stay away from all Accords 98-2012. The CL or TSX is a far better buy and there's plenty of other cars which are far better in the same segment. [QUOTE=TonyTheBean;48810225]oh yeah i definitely know my options for $4k, its just my dad is stubborn as hell.[/QUOTE] What exactly are you looking for and what exactly are you supposed to be looking at? Maybe we can help you find something good within your constraints. "Compact" is interpreted by each person differently. When you say "compact", I think like Smart car or something which I couldn't even fit in comfortably for instance while some people would consider the hilariously large newer Civics to be a "compact".
[QUOTE=Ldesu;48811845]I'm guessing you of all people on Facepunch have [I]loads of experience[/I] with Beetles, right? [editline]2nd October 2015[/editline] I forgot to mention the carburetors are Solex. The same brand as all original carburetors on Beetles[/QUOTE] Basically as long as they're not a reman, or a Chinese copy of a Solex, you're good to go. It's usually safe to buy a redline carburetor, as they source all their stuff from manufacturers, or it's NOS. I shelled out $350 for a redline Weber when I had a regular 2bbl, but that was a legitimate weber, and you pay a lot for a real deal. Also if you're having troubles tuning duals, you just hook a tube between the float bowls or bodies, and it should kind of help it level out.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;48811845]I'm guessing you of all people on Facepunch have [I]loads of experience[/I] with Beetles, right? [editline]2nd October 2015[/editline] I forgot to mention the carburetors are Solex. The same brand as all original carburetors on Beetles[/QUOTE] Uncle owns one that runs twins and has told of the fun of keeping them tuned. [editline]3rd October 2015[/editline] Simmer down bud
Spent a few hours bleeding my brakes and clutch today. Literally a second from being done, tightening the last bleeder valve back down, and I overtighten and shear the entire thing apart. Can't get the threads out of the banjo bolt either so uggghhh
[QUOTE=ramirez!;48813491]Spent a few hours bleeding my brakes and clutch today. Literally a second from being done, tightening the last bleeder valve back down, and I overtighten and shear the entire thing apart. Can't get the threads out of the banjo bolt either so uggghhh[/QUOTE] Step 1: fuck bleeder valves Step 2: never break a bleeder valve
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48814800]Step 1: fuck bleeder valves Step 2: never break a bleeder valve[/QUOTE] step 3: fuck salt, west coast best coast :v: Line wrenches are amazing though, pick up a set from harbor freight they're definitely worth the money.
pb blaster is g8, wish I can dunk a entire vehicle in a vat of it before I start working on them.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;48815099]pb blaster is g8, wish I can dunk a entire vehicle in a vat of it before I start working on them.[/QUOTE] some cars wouldn't survive...
[QUOTE=Serj22;48813035]Basically as long as they're not a reman, or a Chinese copy of a Solex, you're good to go. It's usually safe to buy a redline carburetor, as they source all their stuff from manufacturers, or it's NOS. I shelled out $350 for a redline Weber when I had a regular 2bbl, but that was a legitimate weber, and you pay a lot for a real deal. Also if you're having troubles tuning duals, you just hook a tube between the float bowls or bodies, and it should kind of help it level out.[/QUOTE] They are made in USA and cost almost $1000 new so I really doubt they are copies. [editline]3rd October 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=A_Pigeon;48813254]Uncle owns one that runs twins and has told of the fun of keeping them tuned. [editline]3rd October 2015[/editline] Simmer down bud[/QUOTE] You know a single person with twins, that's not really loads of experience. It depends [I]a lot[/I] on what brand the carbs are.
How much are Panteras worth? un-restored and a bit beaten. Theres one I see near where I work sometimes occasionally. in the three years I've known it's existed, it's never had a plate on it. So either it has a lazy owner or it's a massive (but cool looking!) bucket of shit
[QUOTE=The Decoy;48815432]How much are Panteras worth? un-restored and a bit beaten. Theres one I see near where I work sometimes occasionally. in the three years I've known it's existed, it's never had a plate on it. So either it has a lazy owner or it's a massive (but cool looking!) bucket of shit[/QUOTE] like a detomaso pantera? these days at lest 50 grand [editline]3rd October 2015[/editline] usd not australian monopoly money
[QUOTE=butre;48815758]like a detomaso pantera? these days at lest 50 grand [editline]3rd October 2015[/editline] usd not australian monopoly money[/QUOTE] Daaamn. Wish I had money when the monopoly money was worth something. Not worth buying brand new electronics either. Keep on saving I guess!
Could anybody recommend some good carbs for my Volvo 740? I've been thinking of twin webers or FAJS copies. Any thoughts?
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48814800]Step 1: fuck bleeder valves Step 2: never break a bleeder valve[/QUOTE] As a plumber, I can't agree more. Those fuckers are so easy to break and such a pain in the ass to deal with when doing chlorine injection.
[QUOTE=4NGRY MUFF1N;48815885]Could anybody recommend some good carbs for my Volvo 740? I've been thinking of twin webers or FAJS copies. Any thoughts?[/QUOTE] Twin 32/36 webers would work awesome.
Yesterday in the pouring rain I did my first burnout and launch on the way out of my neighborhood. Then I dreamt of doing it all over town last night.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;48817075]Yesterday in the pooring rain I did my first burnout and launch on the way out of my neighborhood. Then I dreamt of doing it all over town last night.[/QUOTE] and then you start doing it. and then your car breaks all the time. and then you get annoyed with your car. and then you sell it. and then it starts all over.
I haven't driven or been inside of a car in a month now. College stinks.
[QUOTE=cardfan212;48817417]I haven't driven or been inside of a car in a month now. College stinks.[/QUOTE] think of the money you're saving on fuel
[QUOTE=Psygo;48817375]and then you start doing it. and then your car breaks all the time. and then you get annoyed with your car. and then you sell it. and then it starts all over.[/QUOTE] I didn't sit there and hold the burnout until I got a hifive from all the residents, I got the wheels spinning and let go of the handbrake. Definitely not something I plan on doing a lot. If its going to break, it will be when I'm climbing the fire roads up in the mountains in Syria, VA with it. Or even more likely, on my way home from there.
I took my crown vic to a burnout contest, but it was right after i put on new rotors and pads in the rear, so it gripped too much and didnt go very well. Ive still got the rubber bits all over my rear fenders though.
My WRX is an animal at night. The car's tuned for 17psi but I only get 13 during the day and 15 at night because stock boost solenoid and 190k miles. I fucking rekt an 09 challenger RT 20-80 on an onramp. 370 hp vs my 280ish (and car full of tools and ladders and shit) too. Wtf Destroyed a Panamera as well but it was the shitbox base model. Turbo version, no way in hell do I have a chance. I love subarus. I've never seen turbo cars with this many miles be this reliable and quick.
Got the Blazer all ready for winter today since temps are now starting to fall into freezing at night. Checked all the tires and corrected their PSI, changed the oil to the winter weight, topped off all the other fluids. Cleaned and applied rainX to the windows, washed the car.. etc. Made sure to check the spare tire for the first time ever since owning it. Thankfully its a fullsize and it wasnt shit. Rusty rim, but good rubber. Was 15 PSI below what it needed to be. Leggo winter
I want the new Colorado diesel
[QUOTE=Slithers;48806500]There's lots of awesome cars for under 4k. - Mazda 6 - Mercedes 190E - BMW E30 (get motronic!) - Mazda 3 - Various Hondas (good cars, just kinda bland in this price point - sorry slayer - except an old rust free 80s accord or crx or something odd) - Mercedes 300SD - Mercedes 300E - Volvo V70 - Volvo S60 - Ford Mustangs of various vintages - Porsche 944 - Mazda Miata (very cheap to run) - Acura Legend - Yugo GV - VW Rabbit - Ford Crown Victoria - Mercedes 280E (123 body) - 80s BMW 5 Series - Volvo 850 - Volvo 240 - Saab 9000 - Saab 900 - Saab 9-3 - Lincoln Town Car - Subaru Impreza You have more options than you can imagine, just open your eyes.[/QUOTE] I can vouch for the 1st gen Mazda 6 - mine was a 2003 (lost it in an accident) and IMO the interior was waaay ahead of the game back in 2003. PLUS it was really really fun to drive. As much as people sometimes rag on Bose, so far they have been the best stock speakers I've ever heard in a car, except for my brother's 3rd gen Mazda 6. However, I only tolerate my dad's 2nd gen Mazda 6 :v: Can you tell my family likes Mazdas?
The emissions service light for my 2003 CR-V keeps coming on periodically, then going back to normal.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48814800]Step 1: fuck bleeder valves Step 2: never break a bleeder valve[/QUOTE] Any thoughts on alternatives? Saw a few quick bleed valves but I was wary of the design letting air bubbles in.
[QUOTE=Aetna;48809301]'85, the hatch struts were actually fine until I installed louvers, the extra weight was a little too much for them. I bought the car for $1300 with 84k on it back in 2009. It was a good first car.[/QUOTE] Hell yeah, louvers! Very rare on these, especially the 2+2 ones
Can someone do me a solid and try to find the roof rail seal/upper weatherstripping part for a 4-door 1999 blazer. LMC only sells the 2 door model and calls it drip seal. Rock Auto seems to think its called a roof rail seal... I'm at a complete loss of what this damn door seal/weather stripping/drip rail/ is called. [editline]3rd October 2015[/editline] This fucker [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11823009/other/2015-10-03%2018.05.45.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11823009/other/2015-10-03%2018.05.53.jpg[/t]
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