question; I'm going to wire up some gauges using an add-a-circuit, but my question is, where does the ground go? the addacircuit fuse just has a power wire, what do I do with the gauge's ground?
Ground can go to any metal in the car. Use a ring terminal and put it on a bolt under the dash, or shoot a self tapper screw into some metal after you scrape a little paint off.
the whole car is ground
I'm that guy.
I tapped into power by running a wire beside the forever hot side of a fuse. My circuit is not fused. Life is well.
But yet I have two circuitbreakera under the hood of my truck that arnt doing a damn thing because I haven't even had time to hook them up.
Clutch h ow would you rub a wire from the battery to the at most rear part of a truck to go to a rv 7 way plug for constant hot? The main wireloom goes down the driver side of the truck and I really don't want to cross over the rear of the engine...Nor do I really want any chance of this wire getting anywhere near my exhaust manifold.... I mean it a only 12 gauge. What could go wrong.
[QUOTE=butre;48850635]bouncy suspension is usually bad shocks[/QUOTE]
How much do you think the parts for that would cost?
[editline]7th October 2015[/editline]
I would just need new shocks to fix that?
[QUOTE=Amplar;48849803]Just ask about when the timing belt and HG were changed, nothing else really matters. it's a Subaru.[/QUOTE]
It's not an EJ25D, HG doesn't matter. EJ18's and EJ22's don't have the headgasket issues.
[editline]7th October 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Serj22;48850138]So you're trading the car you can sell for $2,000 for the car you can trade to the dump for $200?
Did you not see all the axles need to be replaced? I feel like mechanically that may mean something bad... Wasn't the idea to pay bills or something?[/QUOTE]
The Impreza is an incredibly low mileage AWD model, with manual, and RS wheels.
It's worth $2,000 all day long in that shape.
Fix it up, paint it, maybe do a face lift and RS spoiler, you're looking at a $3,000-3,500 car thanks to those low miles.
As far as the axles, it means nothing bad. Probably the same thing that happened on mine, the rubber boots dried up after many years and split open. Once they are open and get dirt inside, you might as well replace them even though boot kits are available usually.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;48843384]I'd much rather see a full documentry on what condition the engine was in, how it ran, and the process to fix any issues / concerns you have.
Make sure wile you are there to add a REAL oil filter / oil pump combo.[/QUOTE]
Oh right, I'll make a video at some point in the near future of how it runs now. It runs pretty badly, but it idles well.
Of course I'll take pictures of the engine before, during and after the work.
It's leaking oil in a couple of different places so I've ordered a gasket set for it.
[editline]7th October 2015[/editline]
The engine itself is in pretty good condition, but the carburetor is not which is why I'm upgrading to brand new twin carbs, the ones I posted before.
[QUOTE=Serj22;48850138]So you're trading the car you can sell for $2,000 for the car you can trade to the dump for $200?
Did you not see all the axles need to be replaced? I feel like mechanically that may mean something bad... Wasn't the idea to pay bills or something?[/QUOTE]
I've learned my lesson. Every car I seriously consider buying, I take to get inspected by a mechanic.
[QUOTE=Serj22;48850138]So you're trading the car you can sell for $2,000 for the car you can trade to the dump for $200?
Did you not see all the axles need to be replaced? I feel like mechanically that may mean something bad... Wasn't the idea to pay bills or something?[/QUOTE]
I'm more concerned that its listed for $2k. Thats a POS for $2k.
I'd replace the axles no problem, but I wouldnt pay $2k for it.
[editline]7th October 2015[/editline]
"for sale as is"
red flag
"$2000"
red flag
"CD player not included"
red flag
I should have done the same.
Anybody know about Duty Solenoid C on Subarus?
It's very likely that I have torque bind.
So the lease matured on my mother's car.
Now I need to buy a car for the next 7 months.
How wrong am I for looking for a Mustang with this sort of budget?
[QUOTE=DPKiller;48851164]I'm that guy.
I tapped into power by running a wire beside the forever hot side of a fuse. My circuit is not fused. Life is well.
But yet I have two circuitbreakera under the hood of my truck that arnt doing a damn thing because I haven't even had time to hook them up.
Clutch h ow would you rub a wire from the battery to the at most rear part of a truck to go to a rv 7 way plug for constant hot? The main wireloom goes down the driver side of the truck and I really don't want to cross over the rear of the engine...Nor do I really want any chance of this wire getting anywhere near my exhaust manifold.... I mean it a only 12 gauge. What could go wrong.[/QUOTE]
I'd just follow that loom that runs down the side. I'm assuming you're talking your GM? Tag it at the battery or the + lug of the fuse box.. FUSE IT, then cover the whole thing in flex loom.
Once it's all loomed, zip tie the hell out of it to get from the battery and to the area of the engine bay you need to be, then follow the brake lines down out of the engine bay by the master cyl until you get to the D-side harness that follows the frame. Ziptie the hell out of it, and enjoy.
[QUOTE=Exigent;48851398]How much do you think the parts for that would cost?
[editline]7th October 2015[/editline]
I would just need new shocks to fix that?[/QUOTE]
yeah just new shocks
[QUOTE=CabooseRvB;48854403]So the lease matured on my mother's car.
Now I need to buy a car for the next 7 months.
How wrong am I for looking for a Mustang with this sort of budget?[/QUOTE]
Your first problem is that your looking at fords, what kind of doofus would even get a ford these days
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48836080]I saw a Ford GT like 1/4 mile from my house on the way home today. Fucking sexy car.[/QUOTE]
There's one that's at the Corvette repair place up the street from me fairly often. I think it's the owners, which is kind of weird since they only work on corvettes.
[QUOTE=notlabbet;48848008]looking into this impreza
[url]http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/5212102924.html[/url]
its fucked up a bit but the miles are ok, clean title and stuff. I ain't worried about looks, so if it runs good, and mechanically ok, I think it'd be an alright trade. And if he can include $300 that would be great.[/QUOTE]
And I thought my car was a pile of junk....
At least get something for 2k with some paint on it
[QUOTE=CabooseRvB;48854403]So the lease matured on my mother's car.
Now I need to buy a car for the next 7 months.
How wrong am I for looking for a Mustang with this sort of budget?[/QUOTE]
What kind of budget?
[QUOTE=Ridge;48855278]What kind of budget?[/QUOTE]
4-5k spending limit. Forgot to add that.
I honestly do not know where to start on as to what sort of car I could go for. The past cars I drove were the 2012 Civic and a '96 Jag.
Ugh my can of POR15 is officially junk. Had it a year or two and let me tell you, throw it away after a time. Working on a friend's truck bed who (stupidly) ground down some rust bubbles so we could 'fix it before winter!'
There were no holes, just pitting.. so I used the old standard, POR15, like I always do. Horrible. It literally peeled off in sheets. Even over the pitted areas it's meant to adhere to best. I could blow it off with the air nozzle.
So a day and a half or so of wasted time to prep and seal... then knock it all back down with the flapdisc to bare metal again and reseal with etch primer. Fuck it. Good enough.
Proceed to mud and blocksand to smooth it. Arms are dead. Still needs more block sanding. Also fixed a gash in the truck's fiberglass topper and blocked that out so not only are my arms spaghetti, but they're extremely itchy spaghetti. An itchy pasta product much like the promiscuous Italian transfer student in high school.
I really, really hate rust related anything. And now I question the legitimacy of the POR15 I've used in the past. Might try to find a new metal sealer product. I don't know.
I got my dream car a few weeks ago, and finally have a chance to post here. Its a '93 Corvette, 70k miles on it. Got a great deal for $8900. Runs and drives great! After two and a half years of keeping my 96 Camaro alive, all my hard work and long work days are paying off. I look forward to working on it in the future
[t]http://i.imgur.com/VneZ84I.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Dntj0Lt.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nttpugy.jpg[/t]
Going to replace headlight gears with bronze ones (right headlight ratcheting a bit when opening/closing), and all the weatherstripping this weekend. Gotta wash and detail her too
I'm exactly halfway through my car loan :toot:
[QUOTE=t-man;48855662]I got my dream car a few weeks ago, and finally have a chance to post here. Its a '93 Corvette, 70k miles on it. Got a great deal for $8900.[/QUOTE]
Looks great man! It's hard to find c4's in good shape these days.
[QUOTE=facepuke;48855915]Looks great man! It's hard to find c4's in good shape these days.[/QUOTE]
Thanks yo,
A little story about this car: For the last two years up until this June, I was in college. Every day on the way there I'd pass by a sweet green corvette at a car dealer, and say "man I wish I could have that car". I finish college, and near the end the car isn't in the lot anymore. I thought to myself "oh well, someone must have bought it." Fast forward a few months, I'm now working full time and was in search of a decent C4 that isn't torn up- I see online a green vette that looked similar to the one I passed everyday. I decide to check it out in person and fall in love with it. Right before deciding to buy it, I check out the car fax and notice that not only has it been kept in pristine condition (everything from new tires and battery, to intake gaskets replaced recently), but it was actually the same exact car that I passed everyday at that dealership near my school! The dealer I bought the car from was some old country man and his son out in the middle of nowhere two hours away from where I originally saw it. So yeah, I think it was meant to be that I have this car, got it at a great price too.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;48854381]I'm more concerned that its listed for $2k. Thats a POS for $2k.
I'd replace the axles no problem, but I wouldnt pay $2k for it.
[editline]7th October 2015[/editline]
"for sale as is"
red flag
"$2000"
red flag
"CD player not included"
red flag[/QUOTE]
$2000 is pretty good for that low of mileage Subaru. Usually 250k+ mile Subaru's list for around there.
As far as 'as is' being a red flag, it's what's best to do when selling a used car.
CD player not being included, probably had a decent unit in it and took it for their other vehicle. Easy enough to talk them down $40 for a new one, or $20 for OEM replacement
[QUOTE=Amplar;48849803]Just ask about when the timing belt and HG were changed, nothing else really matters. it's a Subaru.[/QUOTE]
Don't think these had head gasket issues but double check me on that. I thought they started the following year in the EJ25 motor
[QUOTE=Ldesu;48601375]I got a little job at work today
[t]http://puu.sh/jXxii.jpg[/t]
"Fix this, we're gonna sell it"
"k"[/QUOTE]
Remember this?
Now it looks like this:
[t]http://puu.sh/kCTMe.jpg[/t]
[sp]Well, not really. I've finished the front door and am half finished with the rear door.[/sp]
Is it even worth the trouble of repairing it :v:
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;48857921]Is it even worth the trouble of repairing it :v:[/QUOTE]
Well yes. It cost ~50 000 nok, we've used between 10 and 20 000 nok in parts and not that many hours on it and it can be sold for ~200 000 nok when it's done.
The other wrecked Volvo we got now cost us 220 000 nok. It's a 2014 model XC70 and cost ~800 000 nok last year and got wrecked. If we can fix it, it can be sold for ~500 000 nok.
Also, here's the "before"-video
[video=youtube;KtT0obWvYQw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtT0obWvYQw[/video]
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