• Automotive Addicts Lounge V3 - Autozone Aisle 6
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[QUOTE=clutch2;48898710]Actually.. no it doesn't. It means that the newest best thing on the market would be perfect for you!.. Android Auto, behold. [video=youtube;xlsV8ModOgY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlsV8ModOgY[/video] It runs specifically on Google maps, exactly how your phone does, because it uses your phone's connection to do everything! That means no more out of date maps, you get current traffic, construction, all that ish. That means you can get it on the Pioneer NEX 4100, the Kenwoof 9702s, etc. Any car you can fit a DDIN in you can get Google Maps navigation in![/QUOTE] I really would love Android Auto but I have two rather large problems, first being they start out at $700+ and second being that I don't own something that even takes a double din! Well my Integra will but unless you want cups smashed into the screen of your $800 deck, you can't.
A unit with navigation is ridiculously expensive as well though, they start well over the Android Auto units, so if you want a unit with navigation, Android Auto is the way to go.
Just get a holder for your phone and load Google maps
[QUOTE=Ferosso;48892718]That wouldn't happen to the Reliant Skyline, because Skyline has an intelligent 4WD system. Even though it only has 3 wheels. Edit: I made a quick photoshop mock up of what I hope the Supra will look like when I'm done fitting the parts to it. I've lowered the front a bit, removed the indicator on the fender and added the facelift bumper indicator, put on the stock sideskirt and added the new rims (I already bought the rims for it). Now: [img]http://i.imgur.com/gtdib3t.jpg[/img] Future: [img]http://i.imgur.com/km5qjJS.jpg[/img] Ref pic for the rims was off a Miata, hence the 4 holes[/QUOTE] I had no idea you had a supra, it's been awhile since I've been on this thread. I guess we both upgraded from hondas lol.. If you need me to look for parts for it i'll keep an eye out on specifics
[QUOTE=gX;48898954]Need to try and get diagnostic software for my Golf in order to fix this alarm issue. Cheap eBay cables do work, but as of yet I am failing. I don't suppose anybody has used a third party cable to get diagnostic software working for Volkswagen/Audi etc?[/QUOTE] Either free vcds or a slightly modified version of full bore vcds. I alwase ran the free vcds and looked up the dtc codes manually. I never really ran into any issues except com issues and stuff. Their is a great write up on vw vortex for ironing out issues.
[QUOTE=technicsix;48899949]I had no idea you had a supra, it's been awhile since I've been on this thread. I guess we both upgraded from hondas lol.. If you need me to look for parts for it i'll keep an eye out on specifics[/QUOTE] Honestly I'm very bad at remembering usernames. What kind of Honda did you drive? And what do you drive now?
Beetle's went off for winter holiday. It's weird to park the Subaru in the Beetle spot. Also the guy who looked at it yesterday is gonna buy it so all I'm waiting for is for him to show up with money and it's his. I got it for 18k, have done quite a lot to it, but am getting 30k for it.
these just came in, if anybody wants one pm me your address lol. [t]http://i.imgur.com/iisq2qa.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=clutch2;48898758]So Acura has a new car coming out, the 2016 RSX saloon. Here's early pictures; [img]https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/vmxNF3HJbVXL4Dgp.1oWnQ--/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjtzbT0xO2lsPXBsYW5l/http://41.media.tumblr.com/355f607b5bdaef6cbd67e0169147a5c9/tumblr_inline_nw4be4hFQf1tcrsvi_1280.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] Ugly as fuck even if it was an Acura
So it's looking like the '74 Dart is going to need new UCA bushings, and LCA bushings, or just new control arms in general with new stuff in them. Bushings are $30 a pair, for the top, $30 for bottom, and that requires two sets of each, so $160 for nice Moog adjustable ones. Or - New adjustable arms - $450 for both sets. Plus it needs new springs in the back, so $300 also. Basically $750 to retrofit a brilliant suspension - into a $1,500 car. Or do I find another dart... and sacrifice the '74 for it's disc brakes, chrome window trim, and 8 1/4" rear end to the '68 so it has big bolt pattern all around... Decisions... Also, Slayer, what do you know about v6 1994 Passports? Which v6 is it using, the accord one?
I have this amp... [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cx-series-cx600-1-1200w-class-d-mono-amplifier-with-adjustable-kickeq-bass-boost-black/7739051.p?id=1218859511615&skuId=7739051[/url] Will it work with this sub? [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-tcomps10-10-single-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer-with-enclosure-black/7752088.p?id=1218859509039&skuId=7752088[/url]
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48902860]I have this amp... [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cx-series-cx600-1-1200w-class-d-mono-amplifier-with-adjustable-kickeq-bass-boost-black/7739051.p?id=1218859511615&skuId=7739051[/url] Will it work with this sub? [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-tcomps10-10-single-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer-with-enclosure-black/7752088.p?id=1218859509039&skuId=7752088[/url][/QUOTE] It definitely won't not work.
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48902860]I have this amp... [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cx-series-cx600-1-1200w-class-d-mono-amplifier-with-adjustable-kickeq-bass-boost-black/7739051.p?id=1218859511615&skuId=7739051[/url] Will it work with this sub? [url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-tcomps10-10-single-voice-coil-4-ohm-subwoofer-with-enclosure-black/7752088.p?id=1218859509039&skuId=7752088[/url][/QUOTE] 300watt RMS amp, with a 300watt RMS sub. Sounds fine to me.
[QUOTE=Serj22;48902869]300watt RMS amp, with a 300watt RMS sub. Sounds fine to me.[/QUOTE] It's 600W x 1 x 2 ohms. I'd be using it two channel at most, since it's one sub.
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48902902]It's 600W x 1 x 2 ohms. I'd be using it two channel at most, since it's one sub.[/QUOTE] I still think they'd work out fine. Yeah I've kinda come to a decision, that even if I don't sacrifice the other dart, I think I want to spend $1500- $1800 on a different car - a third car, rather than deal with the suspension right now. Plus my fiancee will appreciate something easier for her to deal with with three kids. I'm leaning towards something ho-hum boring. So all cool cars, like a $1500 Studebaker... are right out. If anyone spies something in the SF bay area, let me know. I'd prefer it be Japanese or Korean at this point so I can deal with it on the cheap and easy. ALso having a manual would be a plus. Something like this, [url]http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5262119915.html[/url] but I hear the spark plugs are a pain in the ass if you ever have to change them.
Disc conversion is fairly involved, your better off buying an entire K member or see if a FABBO member has one. If the drums in the duster are anything similar to your dart, they're death. Bigblockdart.com has a really good write up on the conversion should you be interested in doing it. You need the upper control arms off a 73+, brake booster off a disc car, disc, metering block, and some other small odds and ends(?) What I hate the most though is that its a frankenstein of C and E body parts, it pushes your front track width out an inch+ on each side. I was looking into a wilwood kit, and for what it costs to refurb stock shit, what you get and your own safety with the wilwood kit, saving up for it is well worth it.
So, I got the sub mentioned above... connected it to the speaker wires already provided by Best Buy's installers... Sub does absolutely nothing. Swapped the ports that I plugged them into on the sub, still nothing. Sub is on and all the way up on the head unit, amp is warmish so it's getting power... I'm stumped.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;48902047]these just came in, if anybody wants one pm me your address lol. [t]http://i.imgur.com/iisq2qa.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] how much HP they add?
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48903360]So, I got the sub mentioned above... connected it to the speaker wires already provided by Best Buy's installers... Sub does absolutely nothing. Swapped the ports that I plugged them into on the sub, still nothing. Sub is on and all the way up on the head unit, amp is warmish so it's getting power... I'm stumped.[/QUOTE] Adjusted gain/xover and bass level on the amp (which has a green light) to no avail. I heard a thump from the sub when I adjusted the power level button and I think when I did something on the stereo, so something stupidly simple has to be what I'm missing. HAALP FACEPUNCH!
Do you have subwoofer output turned on, I know on my Kenwood deck bluetooth doesn't play to the sub by default as well.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;48903714]Do you have subwoofer output turned on, I know on my Kenwood deck bluetooth doesn't play to the sub by default as well.[/QUOTE] Yeah it's on. Under the settings > Audio [editline]14th October 2015[/editline] Actually maybe I didn't hear the subs make any noise when changing the stereo source... I guess I'll pull it out and check the RCA on the back of the stereo deck. Hopefully I won't break anything pulling the dash off.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;48903260]Disc conversion is fairly involved, your better off buying an entire K member or see if a FABBO member has one. If the drums in the duster are anything similar to your dart, they're death. Bigblockdart.com has a really good write up on the conversion should you be interested in doing it. You need the upper control arms off a 73+, brake booster off a disc car, disc, metering block, and some other small odds and ends(?)' What I hate the most though is that its a frankenstein of C and E body parts, it pushes your front track width out an inch+ on each side. I was looking into a wilwood kit, and for what it costs to refurb stock shit, what you get and your own safety with the wilwood kit, saving up for it is well worth it.[/QUOTE] The discs setup on the 74 is already rebuilt. I can justbuy another control arm for a 74 and put it all undeneath the 68. I also feel the rear end, and all the glass ill keep. I dunno yet weather I want to sacrifice it.
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48903720]Yeah it's on. Under the settings > Audio [editline]14th October 2015[/editline] Actually maybe I didn't hear the subs make any noise when changing the stereo source... I guess I'll pull it out and check the RCA on the back of the stereo deck. Hopefully I won't break anything pulling the dash off.[/QUOTE] RCA is fine. Pulled out the stereo. RCA from the amp goes into the Y adapter and into the stereo. Gain/xover and bass are turned up. Wires go to the sub from the + and - on the amp. No idea why my sub is doing nothing. It isn't dead because when I touch the RCA cables plugged into the amp, it kinda makes a thump noise. So...DOA amp maybe?
So dumb question I mind as well ask you guys but, Is power-to-weight ratio a significant factor in cars? Would the power of an I-4 engine in a subcompact be significantly quicker than a V-4 engine in a regular sedan/coupe? After continual thought and asking around here, I've settled for getting a Fit for my short time left in country.
A V-4? The only car I can think of in recent times with one was the Saab Sonnet.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48904241]A V-4? The only car I can think of in recent times with one was the Saab Sonnet.[/QUOTE] Was a "V4" actually a thing?
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48904241]A V-4? The only car I can think of in recent times with one was the Saab Sonnet.[/QUOTE] Wait my mistake, it's not really a V-4-shaped. I just use it as a go-to term, but it's like an invention of Honda; CVCC
[QUOTE=agentfazexx;48904268]Was a "V4" actually a thing?[/QUOTE] Yes. Ford, Lancia, and ZAZ were the only production companies to make one, and Ford loaned theirs to Saab for a couple cars.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;48903260]Disc conversion is fairly involved, your better off buying an entire K member or see if a FABBO member has one. If the drums in the duster are anything similar to your dart, they're death. Bigblockdart.com has a really good write up on the conversion should you be interested in doing it. You need the upper control arms off a 73+, brake booster off a disc car, disc, metering block, and some other small odds and ends(?) What I hate the most though is that its a frankenstein of C and E body parts, it pushes your front track width out an inch+ on each side. I was looking into a wilwood kit, and for what it costs to refurb stock shit, what you get and your own safety with the wilwood kit, saving up for it is well worth it.[/QUOTE] All those parts are readily available. I got the entire 1974 car with factory and rebuilt disc brakes. The previous owner rebuilt them, and put all brand new stainless brake lines in everywhere. He was a brake technician and wanted them pristine. He also had a 1971 Demon that he put 4 wheel discs on. The work is good, and I feel the control arms and spindles should just pop right over to the '68, no? I just don't want to rebuild the entire suspension on this car if I can just take all it's goodies ya know? That was the original intent for the car, but it ran so good I decided to just run it. -8 1/4" rear end -Fender turn signals -Chrome window trim -Mechanical rearview mirror -retracting stock seatbelts for rear seat -Rubber dodge arrow front floor mat -Glass -Wiper fluid bottle -Vacuum reservoir -Springs I can take a few leafs out of and add to my springs on the '68 and rearch it all. -would convert the '68 to BBP all around. -Rear sail panels for interior -A pillar trim -Driver's side door handle mechanical stuff -Back left door to replace my bolt repaired one. And the rest I'd part out the little bits and stuff. It's still just a thought. I have to run it by my better half. Normally I'd keep both darts, but I feel since i want to kind of restore more of the '68 and the '74 just kind of exists... and we're going to have another baby that needs transport... it might be wise. I dunno. [editline]14th October 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=CabooseRvB;48904122]So dumb question I mind as well ask you guys but, Is power-to-weight ratio a significant factor in cars? Would the power of an I-4 engine in a subcompact be significantly quicker than a V-4 engine in a regular sedan/coupe? After continual thought and asking around here, I've settled for getting a Fit for my short time left in country.[/QUOTE] Power to weight means nothing because the gears cancel all of it. You can have a 100hp car, and it can weigh 25lbs and it can have a 2:32 rear end and be the slowest accelerating piece of shit ever.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;48904293]Yes. Ford, Lancia, and ZAZ were the only production companies to make one, and Ford loaned theirs to Saab for a couple cars.[/QUOTE] I remember seeing the Scion TC for sale with a "V4". No idea if that was a mistake or the car actually had a V-config 4 cylinder. They have 2AR-FE I4's, nvm. That was the dealership's misinterpretation, I guess.
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