[QUOTE=Scientwist;52351079]Always wondered what that track would be like first hand. Looks more complex then what GT made it out to be.[/QUOTE]
i haven't driven it in person but i dont think the layout is that complex. i think the bad visibility makes it seem much worse than it is. i've also heard it's deceptively narrow in real life
Also there's the Corkscrew.
Second session video. I fell apart about half way through and was driving poorly, and nearly ran out of gas, so I ended my session after just a few laps.
[video=youtube;DYBP74PPJNI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYBP74PPJNI[/video]
[editline]12th June 2017[/editline]
Session 3, where I started to pull it all together.
[video]https://youtu.be/jkXzbw8HQeI[/video]
I still can't get over how it was wet. But it's great that you got the best of both worlds, and that it dried out by session 3.
Your instructor had a few interesting things to say during session 1...especially his laughs when you screwed up a little. I don't think I've ever been told don't go off line to allow a passby. I guess it can work either way, as long as both drivers don't abruptly swerve like crazy.
Man, these track pics and videos are giving me a fiending for another track day, but the next one isn't for another few weeks.
[QUOTE=NO ONE;52352997]I still can't get over how it was wet. But it's great that you got the best of both worlds, and that it dried out by session 3.
Your instructor had a few interesting things to say during session 1...especially his laughs when you screwed up a little. I don't think I've ever been told don't go off line to allow a passby. I guess it can work either way, as long as both drivers don't abruptly swerve like crazy.[/QUOTE]
I've [b]always[/b] been told to keep my line while getting blue flagged/giving a point-by. That's at everything from one of those 'rent a supercar for 6 laps' overpriced events to a Skip Barber school. Their reasoning was always 'it's better to be predictable and slow than try to be polite and slow and end up being unpredictable and slow'
[QUOTE=Scientwist;52351079]Always wondered what that track would be like first hand. Looks more complex then what GT made it out to be.[/QUOTE]
Yes especially when I would race it in a volvo 240 wagon and win by ricocheting off of other racers at 300mph on every sharp turn.
Seriously how bad an idea is it to take my tall-geared civilian Crown Vic to a track day? I've got stock 90,000 mile granny shocks, almost stock engine, stock gears, stock transmission, barely passable roll bars, and stock warped brakes. That all sounds like Roadkill levels of hilarious fun to me.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;52353139]Seriously how bad an idea is it to take my tall-geared civilian Crown Vic to a track day? I've got stock 90,000 mile granny shocks, almost stock engine, stock gears, stock transmission, barely passable roll bars, and stock warped brakes. That all sounds like Roadkill levels of hilarious fun to me.[/QUOTE]
you'll have lots of fun on autox and the car will do fine, but i wouldn't go for a track day, especially if it's ur daily
[QUOTE=SirKillsAlot;52338937]~250 miles in Florida sun over the course of 8 hours in stop-and-go tourist traffic on a crotch rocket.
everything hurts why did i do this to myself
[t]http://i.imgur.com/YnLbQz3.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Gorgeous bike. I feel your pain, I spent the entire day Friday riding around on my Grom and my body was absolutely destroyed from being crunched up that long. I gotta invest in some aftermarket rearsets because the stock rearset position has my legs jammed up under me.
[QUOTE=Jaehead;52353174]you'll have lots of fun on autox and the car will do fine, but i wouldn't go for a track day, especially if it's ur daily[/QUOTE]
I just worry about getting lost on autocross courses. I might take it to one if I can find one nearby and try it, once I get my E85 performance tune.
Finally decided to splurge and buy my dream car
2017 JKU Rubicon HR alongside the tried and true 1997 Miata
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/mPhiO2B.jpg[/img_thumb]
Haven't been able to find any good 4x4 in central Ohio aside from the myriad of construction sites, but it is a blast to drive, just ordered headliners for the hard top and currently budgeting for a winch.
and for those of you wondering, yes I did replace my belts in the miata, they were horrid but somehow held up for 3 years :worried:
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;52353307]I just worry about getting lost on autocross courses. I might take it to one if I can find one nearby and try it, once I get my E85 performance tune.[/QUOTE]
yea but that's an inevitability. walk the course a few times, you'll miss a gate or two your first two runs but everything should come together shortly after. how else are you gonna learn?
I'd like to go for a trackday but shits expensive and my piece of shit golf would hold everyone up and the engine would probably detonate :v:
[QUOTE=Zombii;52353031]Man, these track pics and videos are giving me a fiending for another track day, but the next one isn't for another few weeks.
I've [b]always[/b] been told to keep my line while getting blue flagged/giving a point-by. That's at everything from one of those 'rent a supercar for 6 laps' overpriced events to a Skip Barber school. Their reasoning was always 'it's better to be predictable and slow than try to be polite and slow and end up being unpredictable and slow'[/QUOTE]
I guess I do recall a few times being told to stay on line, making it their responsibility to pass me, and not the other way around. But I've also been to told to move over off line. Guess it's a situational thing, but staying on line makes sense 95% of the time.
[editline]13th June 2017[/editline]
As far as tracking a vic or golf, swapping in stainless steel brake lines, DOT 4 racing fluid, swapping in track/high temp pads (ones that can easily handle 1000°F+), and putting on summer tires usually covers the bulk of what you need. Tires can be optional, but brakes are mandatory unless you're okay with following a strict procedure of doing 1-2 50% lap, then 1 80-90% lap, making sure to not boil your DOT 3 fluid or overheat your OEM street pads (majority of factory and OEM equivalent pads are only good for 400-600°F.....which you [B]will easily hit[/B]).
I suppose putting 10w40 or 0w40 oil in the engine helps, oil gets pretty hot when tracked. Also putting higher end synthetic fluids in the tranny and diff will help, as well as lowering the antifreeze % in your coolant. But brakes and tires are probably the number one thing. My recommendation for pads are either G-LOC or Carbotech (essentially the same pad compounds, G-LOC is made up of former Carbotech employees). Some people like Hawk pads as well.
[QUOTE=NO ONE;52353732]I guess I do recall a few times being told to stay on line, making it their responsibility to pass me, and not the other way around. But I've also been to told to move over off line. Guess it's a situational thing, but staying on line makes sense 95% of the time.
[editline]13th June 2017[/editline]
As far as tracking a vic or golf, swapping in stainless steel brake lines, DOT 4 racing fluid, swapping in track/high temp pads (ones that can easily handle 1000°F+), and putting on summer tires usually covers the bulk of what you need. Tires can be optional, but brakes are mandatory unless you're okay with following a strict procedure of doing 1-2 50% lap, then 1 80-90% lap, making sure to not boil your DOT 3 fluid or overheat your OEM street pads (majority of factory and OEM equivalent pads are only good for 400-600°F.....which you [B]will easily hit[/B]).
I suppose putting 10w40 or 0w40 oil in the engine helps, oil gets pretty hot when tracked. Also putting higher end synthetic fluids in the tranny and diff will help, as well as lowering the antifreeze % in your coolant. But brakes and tires are probably the number one thing. My recommendation for pads are either G-LOC or Carbotech (essentially the same pad compounds, G-LOC is made up of former Carbotech employees). Some people like Hawk pads as well.[/QUOTE]
Good tips, thanks! I've actually got pretty sticky Yokohama summer tires on the car, they grip well. I've definitely suffered brake fade just on things like spirited canyon driving. Good fluid is something I hadn't considered. I was planning on getting Stoptech rotors and pads up front. This thing has a huge front brake bias, especially with the squishy shocks throwing all the weight forwards. Should I still upgrade my rear pads? They're barely worn at all.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;52353868]Good tips, thanks! I've actually got pretty sticky Yokohama summer tires on the car, they grip well. I've definitely suffered brake fade just on things like spirited canyon driving. Good fluid is something I hadn't considered. I was planning on getting Stoptech rotors and pads up front. This thing has a huge front brake bias, especially with the squishy shocks throwing all the weight forwards. Should I still upgrade my rear pads? They're barely worn at all.[/QUOTE]
I don't have any Vic-specific knowledge, but generally if people have a big issue with brake bias, they will put a higher friction compound in the rear. That is the most economical method, as well as the most rule compliant for autocross rules. But the best thing is to get a proportion valve, which lets you manually adjust the bias to your liking, usually in the form of a master cylinder with two separate cylinders, and a valve that controls the fluid flow.
I've considered getting one for my Miata; even Miatas suffer from overly-biased fronts. Although it hasn't really thrown me off yet, I feel like it's not a major issue to me.
[QUOTE=Kabstrac;52353094]How did you apply this paint? Rattlecans still?[/QUOTE]
Yep :v:
Anycolor rattlecan for about 20$ a piece.
Why?
[QUOTE=EagleEye;52353390]Finally decided to splurge and buy my dream car
2017 JKU Rubicon HR alongside the tried and true 1997 Miata
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/mPhiO2B.jpg[/img_thumb]
Haven't been able to find any good 4x4 in central Ohio aside from the myriad of construction sites, but it is a blast to drive, just ordered headliners for the hard top and currently budgeting for a winch.
and for those of you wondering, yes I did replace my belts in the miata, they were horrid but somehow held up for 3 years :worried:[/QUOTE]
nice
nu wranglers are so darn neat I've liked every one I've been in at work so far, if I wasn't poor I'd nab one h ard
I've got a lawyer now. Court date is June 23, next friday. Wish me luck.
[QUOTE=Strontboer;52348437]Great news everyone, I painted the front of the car. Hurray!
[img]http://i.imgur.com/r74mllO.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/9bMLq7C.jpg[/img]
[b]Spot the problem....[/b]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/DjTtUsO.jpg[/img]
[i]Someone fucking kill me[/i]
[editline]12th June 2017[/editline]
For those who don't get it...it's a completely different version of the color I have. I just painted the front of the car in the wrong fucking color.
There's a bunch of different versions of the Alpin Weiss color I have, ranging from like 1985 to 2017. The older versions are more yellow and faded. Like I have, but they gave me the wrong one. Which is way more white. In daylight the difference is pretty noticeable.
And all I did was order the exact same paint, I even referred to my old invoice to show them EXACTLY what I needed.[/QUOTE]
It's white, just paint it with refrigerator paint and never worry about it again.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;52353868]Good tips, thanks! I've actually got pretty sticky Yokohama summer tires on the car, they grip well. I've definitely suffered brake fade just on things like spirited canyon driving. Good fluid is something I hadn't considered. I was planning on getting Stoptech rotors and pads up front. This thing has a huge front brake bias, especially with the squishy shocks throwing all the weight forwards. Should I still upgrade my rear pads? They're barely worn at all.[/QUOTE]
if the pads still got thickness they're fine. but as the other guy said fluid and lines will go a long way with stock hardware. but for autox don't really need either when runs are less than a minute long.
[QUOTE=loophole;52354662]It's white, just paint it with refrigerator paint and never worry about it again.[/QUOTE]
Im really anal about that shit
It's a special Alpin Weiss color used on the GTR car. And I want it to be exactly the same :v:
[QUOTE=Lerlth;52346530][t]http://i.imgur.com/oO0ff9q.jpg[/t]
Bam. Built the head on the Daytona.
Chrysler 3.3L Valvesprings
Chrysler PT Cruiser lifters
GM LS1 valve spring retainers
GM LS1 valve seals
1994 cast valve cover
Fel-Pro headgasket
New EGR system
New belts for everything
Re-ran all the vacuum lines
Timing is dead on
Going to be sweet. Hope the head doesn't blow apart. I ball parked the spring heights and shit. :v:[/QUOTE]
[video=youtube;qLm5VJewPa4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLm5VJewPa4[/video]
Got her running. You can hear the lifters pumping up. Still need to figure out what that other sound is when the engine starts revving down.
[QUOTE=Araknid;52353522]I'd like to go for a trackday but shits expensive and my piece of shit golf would hold everyone up and the engine would probably detonate :v:[/QUOTE]
SCCA Solo autocross gives good 30 second spacing on relatively short tracks, so you wouldn't be holding people up. And they're only about $50 a day.
[editline]13th June 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=NO ONE;52352997]I still can't get over how it was wet. But it's great that you got the best of both worlds, and that it dried out by session 3.
Your instructor had a few interesting things to say during session 1...especially his laughs when you screwed up a little. I don't think I've ever been told don't go off line to allow a passby. I guess it can work either way, as long as both drivers don't abruptly swerve like crazy.[/QUOTE]
It was an amazing experience. And my instructor was a riot, but also gave lots of great knowledge to improve my driving style, as you can hear in the videos.
I'm uploading sessions 4 and 5 now.
[editline]13th June 2017[/editline]
Session 4
The instructor wanted me to go out without him and see how I did without him holding my hand. I think this was my best session of the day.
[video=youtube;7-hrTFZzr4k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-hrTFZzr4k[/video]
[QUOTE=Ridge;52356198]SCCA Solo autocross gives good 30 second spacing on relatively short tracks, so you wouldn't be holding people up. And they're only about $50 a day.[/QUOTE]
They also tend to have large fields, so less runs for your money. When I went to my first SCCA autocross this year, everyone only got a measly [I]6[/I] runs. While with the smaller club, Renegade Miata, that I've run with previously at the same track, I got about 10-12 easily, maybe 15 including fun runs. For less money too, about $35! The Renegade guys were mostly present at the SCCA event too though.
The main reason you would want to autocross with the SCCA over local clubs is because the competition is usually stiffer. You may even find guys that are the fastest in the region if you go to certain events. They some times are run better than local clubs too, like having better grid setup, announcers with a PA, etc. But in my experience it wasn't so drastically different that the overall quality wasn't any better than the Renegade club.
I'll have to make some time tomorrow to watch your other sessions, it is so surreal and enjoyable watching a new Miata rip it on one of my top 3 favorite American tracks.
went down to my grandparents' house today to run an errand for my mom and figured you guys might like to see some pictures of the garage, sorry in advance for the bandwidth destruction:
[t]http://horobox.co.uk/u/3dLVZW.jpg[/t]
[t]http://horobox.co.uk/u/OtQJmX.jpg[/t]
[t]http://horobox.co.uk/u/7QpZnR.jpg[/t]
[t]http://horobox.co.uk/u/nM4ZG3.jpg[/t]
[t]http://horobox.co.uk/u/QHy7B0.jpg[/t]
[t]http://horobox.co.uk/u/q62iYB.jpg[/t]
[t]http://horobox.co.uk/u/nqYu3B.jpg[/t]
sorry about some of the pictures being pretty sub-par, it's pretty cramped in there because of all the random junk. it drives me up the wall that some of those cars are basically track specials and never get taken out and run (the acr and zr1 mainly). my grandfather is more of a collector than a driver, unfortunately.
Your Grand dad is too fucking wealthy for his own good, those car need love dude.
Have him let you start em up once and awhile, they are no good if shit seizes up.
Well, finally got some time to pull the seized turbo slant out. The flood at my shop is what killed it. The oil pump works fine. It just pumped nothing but water to all the bearings, promptly destroying them. There was a 1/32" gap in the back of the oil pan seal. When the car was sitting in water it was just high enough to fill the pan through the hole. When i drug it out of the flood waters and finally got the starter and flywheel sorted out, i didnt think to see if the block was full of water. I checked the oil abd it was a bit high, but not milky. Just clean. So i didnt think or assume water, i just thought no problem, ran it. Ran for a minute and seized up tight.
After draining about three gallons of water, the oil finally started pouring out and then i flipped the mostly assembled block over with the hoist on an engine stand. The crank had some gnarly toasted babbit on it. The bearings were all toast. Luckily it could be polished. No gouges. No scratches. I got kinda lucky.
The cam looked a little wiped, but its bearings were still perfect. I decided to replace it anyway. Instead of 244 duration and 414lift on both, im ordering a 264, with .440 lift on both. Itll not be as quick off the line, since the turbo will take a lil bit longer to spool, but the turbos small enough that i think itll still get on boost quick enough. And once on boost its gonna fly (i hope).
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/hqt34GE.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/h0xNGo9.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/RTamNwh.jpg[/IMG]
I'd love to see the build finished! Keep on going!
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