[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;52388822]@clutch2
I'd fill in that lower body line, its doesn't contribute too much to the car and I think it'd look much cleaner with it filled, then it'll be look pretty smooth too[/QUOTE]
I can dig the thought, but it'd be a big undertaking. It runs the length of the car and is deep enough I'd have to weld a strip of metal in to feel good that it wouldn't ghost back in the future vs just filling it all with filler.
I also did a ton of work on the doors to straighten it and make it look right so I don't want to get rid of it now :v:
I was at work today and the ignition switch on my cx500 shit the bed, taking the main fuse with it. I replaced both parts with paperclips.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;52391917]
Quality songs like that are rare as hell these days, and this movie if you can recall any of it was just shy of not being a kids movie with the themes it has.[/QUOTE]
It's also the movie that got all the animators working on it fired. It was all computer animated but took just as long as a drawn movie. Then those same individuals eventually created Pixar.
I got all my parts ordered, and of course Summit is shipping them from 3 different parts of the country. The first things to arrive were things i don't need till the other stuff gets here.
Court in one hour
[QUOTE=Ldesu;52392599]Court in one hour[/QUOTE]
Well this is nice. The secons box from summit i get tomorrow is the connecting rod bearings. They are shipping me stuff in the exact backwards order i need. First box was a resonator, oil filter, engine seals and gaskets and assembly lubricant. Basically all end stuff except the assembly grease. Next box is connecting rod bearings. But in order to put those in i need the main bearings first... and the cam.
[QUOTE=Serj22;52392337]It's also the movie that got all the animators working on it fired. It was all computer animated but took just as long as a drawn movie. Then those same individuals eventually created Pixar.
I got all my parts ordered, and of course Summit is shipping them from 3 different parts of the country. The first things to arrive were things i don't need till the other stuff gets here.[/QUOTE]
Got all it's animators fired? How the hell did that happen?
Gonna try and google this.
[editline]23rd June 2017[/editline]
John Lasseter got fired from disney for working on CG animation behind disneys back and they shit canned him for it.
Flash forward, his movies are smash hits.
FF x2, Disney buys Pixar which he basically runs and he becomes head animator.
Oh, and toy story is basically The Brave Little Toaster in 3 parts if you look closely. Took an explanation on a reddit page for it to click but fuck me, it's really similar.
I ordered all the parts that I needed to get my Civic back together with the new engine back in February. So far I've managed to completely lose an alternator belt, clutch alignment tool and a thermostat gasket. I also bought a $31 Gates timing belt kit for a vtec-e D15Z1 that doesn't come with a vtec timing belt tensioner. So I had to buy another tensioner again separately for $29 On top of paying $1150 for a fucking engine which has a intake manifold without a calibrated TPS and a possibly broken IACV. I might as well have scrapped this piece of shit since I'm like $1500 into this and I haven't even got my ECU chipped for it. It's just constant small stupid shit purchases and insane price gouging, I have walked into the dealer on one day and paid $27 for a intake manifold gasket and $35 on the next. I assure you Honda didn't change their list price since I bought my last one.
I had to tighten down the trans bolts to get the transmission on because it either the alignment dowel pins are a hair different on a non-cable transmission motor or my "homemade" clutch alignment tool made the input shaft explode either itself or the pilot bearing. I'm hoping the extremely loud noise was only the dowels popping into place since the clutch works and nothing fell out.
I fucking hate Dropbox for killing the public folder also. Here's some random pictures. It really makes me want to post in here less, I don't enjoy having to move photos all around and there's no reason to post without them.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Zw3FNnQ.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/Jq6WBve.jpg[/t]
Never spend good money on a single cam, I can get B20B's somewhat locally for $300-400. I could have easily bought a transmission, axles, mounts and a shift linkage but I wanted to stick with my pretty good transmission and all this junk that was already working in my car instead because usually that's the best thing to do.
I mentioned a while ago I was looking to get a 1977 Camaro...
[img]http://i.imgur.com/9quVoXu.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/WewcSP8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/JMrB2wS.jpg[/img]
Couldn't be happier.
305 with the original 3-speed auto transmission
[QUOTE=Ldesu;52392599]Court in one hour[/QUOTE]
I think things went pretty well. My lawyer says that without overestimating the chances I should have about 90% chance of winning this. The police had basically not a single piece of evidence against me.
[editline]23rd June 2017[/editline]
I'll get the answer on July 3rd because of vacation shit in the court.
So I went for a short (5 min) drive to the shops.
Parked the car, did my business, and then come back to the car in about 5 minutes.
For 2-3 minutes the car cranked but wouldn't start.
I leave it for another 2-3 minutes of not doing anything and then it started.
It fucking does this once every month or two and I have no idea what it is, literally everything works completely fine. Pisses me off when it does happen because I never know if its just gonna finally shit itself or if it'll start in 5 minutes as usual when it happens.
It happens once and then for several weeks there's absolutely no issue.
It's a Golf 3 with the 2.0 engine.
[QUOTE=Araknid;52393483]So I went for a short (5 min) drive to the shops.
Parked the car, did my business, and then come back to the car in about 5 minutes.
For 2-3 minutes the car cranked but wouldn't start.
I leave it for another 2-3 minutes of not doing anything and then it started.
It fucking does this once every month or two and I have no idea what it is, literally everything works completely fine. Pisses me off when it does happen because I never know if its just gonna finally shit itself or if it'll start in 5 minutes as usual when it happens.
It happens once and then for several weeks there's absolutely no issue.
It's a Golf 3 with the 2.0 engine.[/QUOTE]
Does it sound like it's trying to start or is it just spinning doing nothing?
if the former I would suspect an intermittent grounding problem in the fuel system, if the latter the same in the ignition system
could also be something dumb like a faulty transponder in the key
Sometimes when starting my car, the first few times the starter motor just doesn't do anything. All I hear is a quiet single tick when I turn the ignition key. Usually it starts the third or fourth time instantly. Does anyone know what causes this?
[QUOTE=joost1120;52393961]Sometimes when starting my car, the first few times the starter motor just doesn't do anything. All I hear is a quiet single tick when I turn the ignition key. Usually it starts the third or fourth time instantly. Does anyone know what causes this?[/QUOTE]
mine also does this, assumed it's a battery problem since the starter is pretty new
[QUOTE=joost1120;52393961]Sometimes when starting my car, the first few times the starter motor just doesn't do anything. All I hear is a quiet single tick when I turn the ignition key. Usually it starts the third or fourth time instantly. Does anyone know what causes this?[/QUOTE]
that's usually a bad commutator on the starter motor. that single tick is it kicking over ever so slightly to a good commutator. you'll eventually kill the starter completely but should be fine lit it is for a while.
So my Silverado's rear left side window exploded into little tempered glass chunks while I was driving home today. I didn't see anything hit it... It just kind of gave up and violently fell apart, getting glass all over my rear seat, the interstate, and even in my truck bed..
That ever happen to anyone here? I'll upload a picture later...
Only time I've heard of that is really big temp drops
[QUOTE=Scientwist;52392728]Got all it's animators fired? How the hell did that happen?
Gonna try and google this.
[editline]23rd June 2017[/editline]
John Lasseter got fired from disney for working on CG animation behind disneys back and they shit canned him for it.
Flash forward, his movies are smash hits.
FF x2, Disney buys Pixar which he basically runs and he becomes head animator.
Oh, and toy story is basically The Brave Little Toaster in 3 parts if you look closely. Took an explanation on a reddit page for it to click but fuck me, it's really similar.[/QUOTE]
My brother is a huge Disney factoid guy. He showed me a documentary about 5 years ago where they stated the movie took just as long as drawing, and it was a crappy movie so they got canned. I belive it was a story about pixar, talked about Steve Jobs supplying machines for them to draw on, etc.
In other news my 99 Durango is acting all shitty. A while ago the speedometer started randomly falling to 0mph, then it would shoot back up to normal, then it'd drop, then go up. It did this for about a week. After that the gas gauge would fall to empty, then the low fuel light would come on, then the check engine light, then itd go back up to where it was. Then go Empty, then the speedo would hit 0, etc... The car ran absolutely normal. Then it started stalling. You'd slow to a light, then the car would shut off and CEL would illuminate, sometimes it wouldnt shut all the way down then surge back up to speed. It did that (plus the gauges) for a couple days. Then it couldn't be started at all, the auto shutdown relay kept popping os the fuel pump wouldnt work, and it wouldnt start. Sometimes it will start. When it is running it sounds fine and runs fine, but wont stay running more than 30 seconds. Then the car will die, the ASR will pop, CEL will come on, and it wont start again till the next day.
I checked the throttle body, absolutely spotless, the air filter isnt even remotely dirty, It's not showing me any codes. It's not a "NO BUS" issue either.
Everything is pointing to the computer, which they put 6" away from one of the exhaust manifolds, rather than in the kick panel like everyone else. Unfortunately the computer is also victim to all the sensors, and any one of them can be popping the Auto Shutdown Relay. My thought would be the Crank Position Sensor, but that's just a guess. It's the only one I can think of that would make the car go into protect mode and pop the ASR. Everything else I feel would make it run in limp mode.
But the speedo and fuel gauge and random lights popping make me think the ECU/PCM whatever is fried.
If all goes well, I'll have the AW11 semi drivable on Monday. All the brake parts are in.
Time to learn stick.
[QUOTE=Serj22;52395210]My brother is a huge Disney factoid guy. He showed me a documentary about 5 years ago where they stated the movie took just as long as drawing, and it was a crappy movie so they got canned. I belive it was a story about pixar, [I]talked about Steve Jobs supplying machines for them to draw on, etc.[/I][/QUOTE]
Not really, pixar for all intents and purposes was originally a hardware/software company who made the computers and software to animate in 3d, and sold them off to other people, while also doing stuff like CG ads on the side. And if memory serves, jobs was interested in them because of the hardware they were making, which is when he bought out the company.
[QUOTE=Serj22;52395210]My brother is a huge Disney factoid guy. He showed me a documentary about 5 years ago where they stated the movie took just as long as drawing, and it was a crappy movie so they got canned. I belive it was a story about pixar, talked about Steve Jobs supplying machines for them to draw on, etc.
In other news my 99 Durango is acting all shitty. A while ago the speedometer started randomly falling to 0mph, then it would shoot back up to normal, then it'd drop, then go up. It did this for about a week. After that the gas gauge would fall to empty, then the low fuel light would come on, then the check engine light, then itd go back up to where it was. Then go Empty, then the speedo would hit 0, etc... The car ran absolutely normal. Then it started stalling. You'd slow to a light, then the car would shut off and CEL would illuminate, sometimes it wouldnt shut all the way down then surge back up to speed. It did that (plus the gauges) for a couple days. Then it couldn't be started at all, the auto shutdown relay kept popping os the fuel pump wouldnt work, and it wouldnt start. Sometimes it will start. When it is running it sounds fine and runs fine, but wont stay running more than 30 seconds. Then the car will die, the ASR will pop, CEL will come on, and it wont start again till the next day.
I checked the throttle body, absolutely spotless, the air filter isnt even remotely dirty, It's not showing me any codes. It's not a "NO BUS" issue either.
Everything is pointing to the computer, which they put 6" away from one of the exhaust manifolds, rather than in the kick panel like everyone else. Unfortunately the computer is also victim to all the sensors, and any one of them can be popping the Auto Shutdown Relay. My thought would be the Crank Position Sensor, but that's just a guess. It's the only one I can think of that would make the car go into protect mode and pop the ASR. Everything else I feel would make it run in limp mode.
But the speedo and fuel gauge and random lights popping make me think the ECU/PCM whatever is fried.[/QUOTE]
You need a friend who has one of those expensive tablet scanners that can read mode 6 data, log data and control systems. The ecu being where it is might be the cause and if your brave, take it out and open it and look for anything that looks like cracked solder joints or darkened PCB. Some circuits by nature put off a fair amount of heat, but when having an outside source of heat is added to the mix they can get out of hand sometimes in short order.
It's also possible that theres a ground short somewhere. Try letting it idle till it's up to temp and wait and see if it starts acting strange, if it acts up before the exhausts really hot the ECU is basically dying on it's own. If it acts up when its really hot, well, you can guess from there.
Think you could fab up some kinda heat shield?
This guy has some info:
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLQsvjViv8k[/media]
Eh Serj, when I was having cluster problems with my 98 ram it was because the crank position sensor was dirty.
I'm not too sure if it carries over to the durango, but on my truck the ECM uses the signal from the crank position sensor to read that the engine is on, so if its getting no signal then nothing works.
Another issue I had is where I forgot to run a ground to my frame and cab (just had it on the block) so my cluster also wouldn't work nor would my OBD port.
If you did have an electrical issue and your cluster is being weird, on my truck it has a relay within the ECM that gets tripped when the voltage is outta normal parameters. Had to pull the cables off and let the truck sit over night and it was good in the mornin.
Speedo on my truck works off the rear axle, but others worked off the transfer case. I'm not sure about the durango, but all the sensors leading to to rear come off a wiring harness off the fuse box that runs along the frame, the connectors for mine are by the bodymount near the drivers wheel well, kinda bad position I can see water getting in it.
[editline]24th June 2017[/editline]
ECMs in these trucks are fairly robust, lots of people huck them in the trash way too early but a lot of the times its something else causing the problem
[QUOTE=OvB;52394996]So my Silverado's rear left side window exploded into little tempered glass chunks while I was driving home today. I didn't see anything hit it... It just kind of gave up and violently fell apart, getting glass all over my rear seat, the interstate, and even in my truck bed..
That ever happen to anyone here? I'll upload a picture later...[/QUOTE]
happens sometimes, tempered glass is very fickle. if there was any issue with the glass that made it through quality control it's definitely not unrealistic for it to happen. I've only heard about it happening with auto glass, but personally seen it many times on cell phones.
That might explain why my old phones screen exploded in my pocket a couple years ago
[QUOTE=OvB;52394996]So my Silverado's rear left side window exploded into little tempered glass chunks while I was driving home today. I didn't see anything hit it... It just kind of gave up and violently fell apart, getting glass all over my rear seat, the interstate, and even in my truck bed..
That ever happen to anyone here? I'll upload a picture later...[/QUOTE]
Happend to me with my old C10 -79, the drivers side window just randomly shattered in the parking lot in the winter.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;52395861]You need a friend who has one of those expensive tablet scanners that can read mode 6 data, log data and control systems. The ecu being where it is might be the cause and if your brave, take it out and open it and look for anything that looks like cracked solder joints or darkened PCB. Some circuits by nature put off a fair amount of heat, but when having an outside source of heat is added to the mix they can get out of hand sometimes in short order.
It's also possible that theres a ground short somewhere. Try letting it idle till it's up to temp and wait and see if it starts acting strange, if it acts up before the exhausts really hot the ECU is basically dying on it's own. If it acts up when its really hot, well, you can guess from there.
Think you could fab up some kinda heat shield?
This guy has some info:
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLQsvjViv8k[/media][/QUOTE]
It won't run long enough to test for anything, if it starts at all. you get about 15 seconds. Then it shuts down and doesn't seem to want to start again till it's really cold in the early morning.
The stall that never started again happened when we hit 110 degrees outside. That may have spurred it - plus i was doing some long distance driving. I'll have to see if I know anyone with a better reader. I just have a basic code popper, simple stuff.
And Valon, I am leaning towards the crank sensor as well, and I've seen some for about $25.00. I figure it can't hurt to replace it and move on from there.
[QUOTE=butre;52395972]happens sometimes, tempered glass is very fickle. if there was any issue with the glass that made it through quality control it's definitely not unrealistic for it to happen. I've only heard about it happening with auto glass, but personally seen it many times on cell phones.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Skusty;52396200]Happend to me with my old C10 -79, the drivers side window just randomly shattered in the parking lot in the winter.[/QUOTE]
It's a 10 year old truck that's spent plenty of time through extreme Texas temperature changes. Is it likely that the imperfections stayed minor enough until stress built up over time for it to just give in? Makes me nervous about the rest of my glass...
Anyway, here's a picture as promised.
[img_thumb]https://imgur.com/yGhdtPi.jpg[/img_thumb]
[url]https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spontaneous_glass_breakage[/url] sounds plausible.
[QUOTE=OvB;52396845]It's a 10 year old truck that's spent plenty of time through extreme Texas temperature changes. Is it likely that the imperfections stayed minor enough until stress built up over time for it to just give in? Makes me nervous about the rest of my glass...
Anyway, here's a picture as promised.
[img_thumb]https://imgur.com/yGhdtPi.jpg[/img_thumb]
[url]https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spontaneous_glass_breakage[/url] sounds plausible.[/QUOTE]
More likely that the window wasn't perfectly installed, and had a stress point (place where glass is being stressed upon)
It's possible you can trace back the origin of the crack by following the lines in the cracked glass. Even though it's hardend, and will break at once. There's always a point of origin. (Source; I'm a glass salesperson :v:)
[b]NEXT UP IN MY BLOG[/b]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/N52KQB6.jpg[/img]
Fixing the damn E87 from my GF
-New oil + filter
-Replaced faulty spark plug
-Cleaned the dashboard of the overdue xmass lights caused by some shitty tire pressure sensor and brake sensor
THEN
After a few days of troubleshooting, my electronic gas pedal is finaly working in the racecar! And jezus fucking christ does it rev fast. The 4.4KG flywheel and increased gaspedal map responsiveness made it into a fucking monster
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9-mpeEgHvw[/media]
So fucking happy that I fixed that.
Also did loads of tidying up in the car. Block off the heater gap, floor panels, fixed batterbox into position, new seat mounts etc.
And here's a sneak peak of the next thing
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Ihkr7jI.jpg[/img]
the rest of your glass might shatter in 5 minutes, might outlast the truck. good chance for the latter, they do a pretty good job with quality control these days
[QUOTE=Serj22;52396685]It won't run long enough to test for anything, if it starts at all. you get about 15 seconds. Then it shuts down and doesn't seem to want to start again till it's really cold in the early morning.
The stall that never started again happened when we hit 110 degrees outside. That may have spurred it - plus i was doing some long distance driving. I'll have to see if I know anyone with a better reader. I just have a basic code popper, simple stuff.
And Valon, I am leaning towards the crank sensor as well, and I've seen some for about $25.00. I figure it can't hurt to replace it and move on from there.[/QUOTE]
With that description, I'm now 98% sure that's the crank sensor. I bid you good luck getting to it though, being on top of the trans bellhousing puts it in a shit place to get to.
My dads Ram van, my vet clinic friends old 1500 truck and buddy Carls durango all shared a similar issue with running and starting. However, none of them had the gauges bug out like yours.
You did the trick to get the cluster to self check right? From what I've read actually, a failing CKPS or CYP [i]can[/i] cause the gauges to go haywire. Does your digi odo give you any codes at all?
[code]with your key off hold in your odo/trip button and turn the key to the ACC position.
This should initiate the BCM (which is contained in the dash unit) to do a self check of the dash unit.
All warning lights should illuminate, and all gauges should do a full stepped sweep from high back to low.
If a gauge doesnt work you need a new BCM. [/code]
[QUOTE=Scientwist;52397133]With that description, I'm now 98% sure that's the crank sensor. I bid you good luck getting to it though, being on top of the trans bellhousing puts it in a shit place to get to.
My dads Ram van, my vet clinic friends old 1500 truck and buddy Carls durango all shared a similar issue with running and starting. However, none of them had the gauges bug out like yours.
You did the trick to get the cluster to self check right? From what I've read actually, a failing CKPS or CYP [i]can[/i] cause the gauges to go haywire. Does your digi odo give you any codes at all?
[code]with your key off hold in your odo/trip button and turn the key to the ACC position.
This should initiate the BCM (which is contained in the dash unit) to do a self check of the dash unit.
All warning lights should illuminate, and all gauges should do a full stepped sweep from high back to low.
If a gauge doesnt work you need a new BCM. [/code][/QUOTE]
I tried the check, nothing happens. My understanding is they did not outfit the Durango with that check till later in the year in 1998. Mine I guess is from earlier in the year.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
