do they still use rego stickers in the us?
i think ours are tied to your license and cops can scan your card to check your rego details.
also i need to flush the coolant and oil, do you guys use a chemical flush for either?
[QUOTE=Pat.Lithium;52494580]question: do i need to take my car to the car doctor to replace my brake pads? i've got a new set for my lancer and i've got the tools at home if it's easy enough to fit them myself.
[editline]22nd July 2017[/editline]
in the process of servicing my poor car and trying to do it as cheap as possible because i still gotta buy a new windscreen which i absolutely cannot do myself.[/QUOTE]
Brake pads are pretty simple. Undo the brake fluid reservoir cap, remove the caliper, take out the old pads, press the piston back in, put new pads on and bolt the caliper back on. Put the reservoir cap back on and pump the brake pedal a few times until it's stiff again.
[QUOTE=Ridge;52494607]Brake pads are pretty simple. Undo the brake fluid reservoir cap, remove the caliper, take out the old pads, press the piston back in, put new pads on and bolt the caliper back on. Put the reservoir cap back on and pump the brake pedal a few times until it's stiff again.[/QUOTE]
this. you'll want some vicegrips to close off the brake lines, and a vice to compress the piston.
[QUOTE=Slade Xanthas;52494594]depends on the state, we don't use them anymore in PA as of this year[/QUOTE]
Haven't used them in CT since 2011, though I should really re-register my car in PA or NJ so I can stop getting nailed with car taxes.
[QUOTE=MrBunneh;52494614]this. you'll want some vicegrips to close off the brake lines, and a vice to compress the piston.[/QUOTE]
You mean vice grips on brake hoses? Either way the thought of that makes me cringe. I just crack the bleeders open when I fit new brake pads, press the pistons in with a brake piston expander, and fit new pads, and bleed the brakes. No need to take calipers off the car for this. I've done 4 brake jobs in my life and have never had an issue.
[QUOTE=Pat.Lithium;52494598]also i need to flush the coolant and oil, do you guys use a chemical flush for either?[/QUOTE]
Flush the oil - wat?
Just change the oil. If you have a lot of sludge build up, use a premium grade full synthetic oil from a reputable brand (not Mobil-1) and change your oil at 2/3 the specified interval until sludge begins to clear up. If you want to clear sludging you can run diesel oil, but don't do this for long as the detergents are powerful and sludge can clog your filter.
Also, Marvel Mystery oil may help. I know people who use it in air cooled Teledyne-Continental aero engines (think Beechcraft Bonanza) and swear by it, but don't use a lot, like maybe 1/4 of a pint at maximum.
[QUOTE=MrBunneh;52494614]this. you'll want some vicegrips to close off the brake lines, and a vice to compress the piston.[/QUOTE]
Unless he's intending to replace a caliper then there's no need to close off the brake lines.
And I'm a big fan of oversized water pump pliers for pressing in the caliper piston(s).
Theres no reason to clamp off lines or crack the cap. The cap os vented. Just squeeze them open and slap them on, no need to overcomplicate it.
And if your engine is real old and neglected, you can fill it with automatic transmission fluid and run it for a couple test drives to clean out the cobwebs. Its a great high sheer lubricant, and its got more detergents in it than full synthetic. I flushed my dune buggys beetle motor with it and it cleaned out plenty of sludge and sand.
[editline]21st July 2017[/editline]
Its cheaper than fancy dancy full synth too
The brake fluid reservoir cap can't be vented. The brake system needs to be pressurized to do it's job.
[QUOTE=Ridge;52494852]The brake fluid reservoir cap can't be vented. The brake system needs to be pressurized to do it's job.[/QUOTE]
It might be different on some old hunk with a very basic single circuit brake system, but any car with a dual circuit brake system doesn't strictly require the reservoir to be sealed.
Look up the construction of a two circuit master cylinder
[QUOTE=Pat.Lithium;52494580]question: do i need to take my car to the car doctor to replace my brake pads? i've got a new set for my lancer and i've got the tools at home if it's easy enough to fit them myself.
[editline]22nd July 2017[/editline]
in the process of servicing my poor car and trying to do it as cheap as possible because i still gotta buy a new windscreen which i absolutely cannot do myself.[/QUOTE]
it takes a grand total of 45 minutes to do all 4 corners if it's disc brakes, double it for drums. once the wheel is off its just 2 bolts, take the old pads out, put the new ones in, and put it back together. if you can't wrangle the caliper on at this point get a c clamp and press the piston in with it. there's no need to take the caliper off the car or crimp off the brake lines or vent the cap or anything, and anyone who says different has never done brakes.
I don't like doing glass work myself because if I drop it or something there's nobody I can make buy me a new one, but it's easy to do so long as you're not clumsy in any way. think about it, have you seen some of the guys who do glass? a fair chunk of them aren't bright people.
[editline]22nd July 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=Pat.Lithium;52494598]also i need to flush the coolant and oil, do you guys use a chemical flush for either?[/QUOTE]
I flush my coolant with plain water if it's not too bad, and if it is bad enough that water doesn't cut it it probably needs a rebuild anyway. oil I flush by dropping the pan and pulling off the valve covers and scooping out any sludge with my hands. for the most part using chemicals to flush engine oil does more harm than good unless you dumped a gallon of water in your case, in which case the chemical of choice is gasoline with ethanol. the gas thins the oil and the ethanol sucks out the water. just don't run the car with a case full of gas, thats a good way to eject a rod. drain the gas by dropping the pan, then put oil in it, let it idle for about 10 minutes, and change the oil again.
[QUOTE=Ridge;52494564]Don't use sandpaper. Use a buffing compound and a cloth like cotton or a chamois.[/QUOTE]
This is for the rustoleum job I'm doing where there's quite a bit of orange peel, so I need to sand. I went out and bought a $23 orbital buffer and some polish. Will report back with results. I'm curious how this cheap buffer will do
Anyone here in California feel like gambling?
[url]https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/d/toyota-celica/6200992966.html[/url]
[QUOTE=ToastedBread;52495165]Anyone here in California feel like gambling?
[url]https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/d/toyota-celica/6200992966.html[/url][/QUOTE]
Looks too good to be true imo.
[QUOTE=Ridge;52494852]The brake fluid reservoir cap can't be vented. The brake system needs to be pressurized to do it's job.[/QUOTE]
Vented was the wrong word to use. I meant that there is plenty of space in the resevoir fo rthe fluid to rise. On some there are diaphrams that move up and down to relieve pressure like a vent, but maintain the volume.
I'm gonna be looking at another hobby car soon. What do y'all reccomend doing for inspection, beyond the basic compression test, fluids check and such
[QUOTE=Trilby Harlow;52495290]I'm gonna be looking at another hobby car soon. What do y'all reccomend doing for inspection, beyond the basic compression test, fluids check and such[/QUOTE]
if you got emissions in your area get a car old enough to be exempt. beyond that if it's road legal its kosher, just make sure the lights and horn works and the running gear is vaguely safe. if you dont have age exemptions for emissions then your best bet is usually to put a modern powerplant in it. as the local resident gm shill my vote is ls
[QUOTE=butre;52495294]if you got emissions in your area get a car old enough to be exempt. beyond that if it's road legal its kosher, just make sure the lights and horn works and the running gear is vaguely safe. if you dont have age exemptions for emissions then your best bet is usually to put a modern powerplant in it. as the local resident gm shill my vote is ls[/QUOTE]
it's a '51, so emissions are out of the equation. I was thinking more on the lines of general car and engine health
on a car that old, first order of business is to make sure the brakes are working. once that's sorted out, put fresh oil, transmission fluid, and coolant in, and at that point you can clean the carburetor and check the compression. if everything is good so far, try to fire it up. if it doesn't fire up the first thing you should suspect is spark. not just presence of spark, but spark timing as well.
it's a '51 what? make and model can help me give you more specific advice.
Found a truck workshop that will lengthen my driveshaft :excited:
[QUOTE=butre;52495324]on a car that old, first order of business is to make sure the brakes are working. once that's sorted out, put fresh oil, transmission fluid, and coolant in, and at that point you can clean the carburetor and check the compression. if everything is good so far, try to fire it up. if it doesn't fire up the first thing you should suspect is spark. not just presence of spark, but spark timing as well.
it's a '51 what? make and model can help me give you more specific advice.[/QUOTE]
The guy said he put new brakes in it, and he has it registered and drives it regularly. It's a hobby car, not a roadkill tier junkyard dweller.
Also it's a '51 studebaker commander, with the 283. I got the hots for Raymund Loewey's work and the price is a steal.
[T]http://momentcar.com/images/studebaker-commander-3.jpg[/T]
Not this one in particular but it's basically identical. Doesn't have the four panel wrap around window though, sadly.
the biggest concern with studes is finding body panels if you ever need them. nobody does repros afaik and junkyards are useless for stuff that old. if it runs and drives already there's not really anything you have to do.
usually when I say I'm getting a project car I mean I'm trading a quart of moonshine for a rusty shell, so you're already ahead of me on 90% of my projects.
[QUOTE=Slade Xanthas;52494585]it's time for another saab story cause I just brought this lovely machine home
[img]http://i.imgur.com/fcTi3kt.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/80htmZI.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/57Yu3OR.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
ye boii welcome to the club
[editline]23rd July 2017[/editline]
what engine?
[QUOTE=Ridge;52494852]The brake fluid reservoir cap can't be vented. The brake system needs to be pressurized to do it's job.[/QUOTE]
It's closed off from the brake maste to the calipers. You can still draw air into the reservoir, otherwise you'd create a vacuum inside the reservoir when you stepped on the brakes (you're pulling brake fluid out of it, something needs to replace it)
I don't think I did anything when I replaced the brakes on the Saab, but if you really want to you can take the top off and let the air go out like that.
[QUOTE=Ridge;52494852]The brake fluid reservoir cap can't be vented. The brake system needs to be pressurized to do it's job.[/QUOTE]
it is vented actually.
you don't want pressure in your reservoir, did you look at that tiny little plastic bottle and plastic cap?
how would that ever take the pressure of brakes.
personally I just push the pistons back, not worrying about the reservoir at all past having fluids in there when the pistons are pushed back. you can really change your brake pads just by taking two bolts out, though not sure I'd recommend changing them without cleaning stuff off.
Are the caps really vented though, or does it just leak through the threads? I guess the only time you really need to mess with that kind of stuff is if you like you decided to change the brake fluid right before you change your pads (I cracked the bleed nipple and bled them off after wards)
Rust-Oleum test panel done! Knocked the orange peel down with 1500 and 3000 grit, and used my $20 polisher with cheapo turtle wax polishing compound. Results are good enough.
(overcast day)
[T]http://i.imgur.com/W5XhqCA.jpg[/T]
Hey people, been a while since I last posted here! :D
I recently went on a vacation to the top of Denmark during the week known as "Hellerup-ugen" which translates to "show off your car" week. Here are some pictures
[t]http://i.imgur.com/PzUeXR2.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/nH8uDjw.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nADUkQb.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/wjMc3t1.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/6EEdDXe.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/GpTQWDb.jpg[/t]
There are a lot more, but I've decided not to slow down all of our internet connections (too much), so if anyone are interested in other cool European spots (including the cleanest MR2 AW11 I've seen!), then I can post a few more pictures.
To update a little on my own car situation, both my W108 and W123 are on the road again for the summer. The injection system and the entire electrical system was renewed on my W108 and the W123 had a lot of rust sorted.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ATuR5gC.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/iktdSyY.png[/t]
I'll try to keep up with this thread as I'm finally home and off work for the next few weeks, been hard when university and having a job all comes first.
[QUOTE=Slade Xanthas;52496059]It's the 2.3T with the mitsu TD04 turbo, puts you in the seat
so far, the only things wrong with it are the fob and the window regulator, which the dealer will fix, and upon visual inspection, it looks like the valve cover gasket might be leaking, so I ordered that off eEuroparts and I'll be replacing it myself. Otherwise, it's pretty much cherry. Anyone want to confirm that my suspicions are correct? The slop looks a bit dated.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/XsHKndK.jpg[/t]
[/QUOTE]
I see your problem, you got a bunch of plastic bins where the engine should be.
I forgot to share that last Sunday I went to Miata Day at the Larz Anderson Auto museum. 184 cars attended, from all gens. Almost as good as last year, difference being I didn't win much of anything, and some of the most interesting cars didn't seem to be there.
The museum had these gems inside:
[img]http://scontent.fbed1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/20117027_10210133269115849_1566953682446785687_o.jpg?oh=b60a93ac05124f8be53bba40436acff3&oe=5A10BB3A[/img]
[img]http://scontent.fbed1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/20229632_10210133267715814_1112124711836315406_o.jpg?oh=bce1930e020d290a8fe2545bef49d53a&oe=5A10D5A5[/img]
[img]http://scontent.fbed1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/20024053_10210133267435807_5521626899210333187_o.jpg?oh=df03fe74a98f1b951fbb94f565a4a0b3&oe=59F559D7[/img]
One of these days I'll get a proper DSLR, but until then I just have to settle with shitty cell phone pics. But yeah, I never thought I'd have a chance to see any of these cars in real life, and that's coming from someone that has seen plenty of amazing cars on the road and at car shows. Yet, there they were, calling my name and teasing me to take a closer look past the display ropes.
Across the room on the other side of these was a Mercedes-Mclaren SLR (which I saw last month at Barret Jackson, so I was kinda like been there done that zzzz) and next to that was an immaculate SLS, I think a 53' or 54'. I still maintain they are the most beautiful Mercedes ever built.
[QUOTE=Minimole;52496533]I see your problem, you got a bunch of plastic bins where the engine should be.[/QUOTE]
i get the hate for plastic covers on engines, but there's pretty much only 1 unneccesary plastic cover in that picture and it's over the intake manifold
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