Idle hands tonight. My '81 Honda CM400 hasn't been touched for a while since the headlight didn't work.. so I tore in a little bit with the multimeter to figure it out.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/pn7gH5yl.jpg[/img]
I tracked it down to the starter switch! It's a double throw switch with an ign wire in and when it's not being pressed it powers the headlights, and when it is being pressed it powers the starter relay. Cleaned the switch up and we had headlights back!
Also noticed some wires wrapped up behind the headlight, uncovered some nice melted ground wire action
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Op8VU4gl.jpg[/img]
Headlight bucket is a little rough. Probably going to try to fix it/ clean it up instead of replacing.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/gxAbMyMl.jpg[/img]
And from there I thought to myself.. well, I wanna do a cleanup/ refresh on the bike, sooooooo
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Pw5FtHbl.jpg[/img]
I guess I'm starting on a new project.
[QUOTE=PandaJuggernaut;52652205]marauders get around 17 MPG city stock 5 MPG is ridiculous unless it's running a full out drag package hell my 414CI F150 gets 12MPG and thats on 38's[/QUOTE]
my silverado gets 10 city and it runs 12s
I don't believe 5 mpg unless he's putting at least 800 down to the road
So I haven't posted here in forever, but I have some news. The blue MR2's engine has been ded for a long time now, so me and a friend are finally doing something about it. Said engine and tranny are not in the car any more. What's going in its place [sp]please please please don't hate me[/sp] is basically a homemade, pieced together version of.... [sp]An SRT4 engine.[/sp]
Why? Because balls to the wall, affordable, brain-flying-to-the-back-of-your-skull boost and power to weight ratio. I've had a chance to ride in some of his built Neons, and I couldn't help myself but to ask him if he'd do a swap on the same level of power for me. He's hoping to open his own customs shop one day, and I offered him my car to do whatever the hell he wanted, and he chose an SRT4 swap. Incredibly unconventional, and probably taboo, but science isn't about [i]why[/i], it's about [i]why not![/i]
Not sure if I posted this yet, but I basically straight piped my monster. Threw in a small baffle just to keep backpressure, without it the engine was extremely upset and it was barely rideable. Now it feels and sounds great, much better than the high pitched lawnmower sound the stock cans produce. Also shed like 25lbs of weight, the cans are ridiculously heavy.
I managed to rig it in a manner that didn't require any welding or drilling while staying secure via the stock exhaust retention springs, so I can still put the stock cans or aftermarket slip-ons on if I ever feel the need to. I like how loud it is now, I used to have to get up on people's asses in the passing lane before they moved out of the way for me. Now, they move a lot sooner and it's a smoother experience for everyone involved. The fender needs to go ASAP though.
[IMG]https://68.media.tumblr.com/b82b8d8faa82b0b58f72b1c0eb722a9b/tumblr_ovv1tremul1rjfkh8o1_1280.png[/IMG]
[video=youtube;Suk2K75YRl8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Suk2K75YRl8[/video]
[QUOTE=clutch2;52652709]Idle hands tonight. My '81 Honda CM400 hasn't been touched for a while since the headlight didn't work.. so I tore in a little bit with the multimeter to figure it out.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/pn7gH5yl.jpg[/img]
I tracked it down to the starter switch! It's a double throw switch with an ign wire in and when it's not being pressed it powers the headlights, and when it is being pressed it powers the starter relay. Cleaned the switch up and we had headlights back!
Also noticed some wires wrapped up behind the headlight, uncovered some nice melted ground wire action
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Op8VU4gl.jpg[/img]
Headlight bucket is a little rough. Probably going to try to fix it/ clean it up instead of replacing.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/gxAbMyMl.jpg[/img]
And from there I thought to myself.. well, I wanna do a cleanup/ refresh on the bike, sooooooo
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Pw5FtHbl.jpg[/img]
I guess I'm starting on a new project.[/QUOTE]
Is that a cm400a? I dont see a clutch lever there. If so, major props for maintaing such a wierd and fuckin cool bike.
If not still frickin noice
The clutch lever is right about where the fork is in the first pic.
[IMG]https://i.gyazo.com/6512499c7a64a85682184e3d7b6c92d3.jpg[/IMG]
Got anxious so I test fitted my new to me 500E brake calipers on my 190E. I'll need to modify my dust shields to clear the 300mm rotors (stock rotors are 240mm).
[QUOTE=MaverickIB;52653468]Not sure if I posted this yet, but I basically straight piped my monster. Threw in a small baffle just to keep backpressure, without it the engine was extremely upset and it was barely rideable. Now it feels and sounds great, much better than the high pitched lawnmower sound the stock cans produce. Also shed like 25lbs of weight, the cans are ridiculously heavy.
I managed to rig it in a manner that didn't require any welding or drilling while staying secure via the stock exhaust retention springs, so I can still put the stock cans or aftermarket slip-ons on if I ever feel the need to. I like how loud it is now, I used to have to get up on people's asses in the passing lane before they moved out of the way for me. Now, they move a lot sooner and it's a smoother experience for everyone involved. The fender needs to go ASAP though.
[IMG]https://68.media.tumblr.com/b82b8d8faa82b0b58f72b1c0eb722a9b/tumblr_ovv1tremul1rjfkh8o1_1280.png[/IMG]
[video=youtube;Suk2K75YRl8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Suk2K75YRl8[/video][/QUOTE]
if you open up the airbox too you can yank the baffle out and make some power
[QUOTE=Slithers;52655693][IMG]https://i.gyazo.com/6512499c7a64a85682184e3d7b6c92d3.jpg[/IMG]
Got anxious so I test fitted my new to me 500E brake calipers on my 190E. I'll need to modify my dust shields to clear the 300mm rotors (stock rotors are 240mm).[/QUOTE]
I hate german hubs
wheel bolts are a sin
[QUOTE=butre;52655734]if you open up the airbox too you can yank the baffle out and make some power[/QUOTE]
As far as I know, the reason why it feels like garbage with no baffle is because the engine is designed to operate with fairly sizeable backpressure. Not sure how opening up the airbox would help, I could tell the lack of backpressure was causing fueling issues via heavy backfiring with fireballs, and the revs would surge up and down as it tried to compensate.
I do intend on installing some O2 sensor eliminators to get rid of the closed-loop EPA admissions standards lean as fuck fueling below 5krpm. Will probably open up the box and put in a performance filter at that point, otherwise I think it would be running too lean in the low rev ranges.
[QUOTE=evilweazel;52655766]I hate german hubs
wheel bolts are a sin[/QUOTE]
Why? They really aren't bad, every MB I have owned has come with a wheel alignment pin in the spare tire kit.
[t]https://dq4zp01npifg0.cloudfront.net/sites/default/files/content/files/wheelpin4%20copy.jpg[/t]
Makes mounting wheels just as painless as mounting wheels on non German cars.
[QUOTE=Slithers;52655836]Why? They really aren't bad, every MB I have owned has come with a wheel alignment pin in the spare tire kit.
[t]https://dq4zp01npifg0.cloudfront.net/sites/default/files/content/files/wheelpin4%20copy.jpg[/t]
Makes mounting wheels just as painless as mounting wheels on non German cars.[/QUOTE]
Needing a special tool/device/etc. to get around the unnecessary time and steps superior German engineering added along the way of the car being designed huh
never heard that one before
Deutschland über alles
[sp]I'm only having a laff I'm not this upset about hubs I promise [/sp]
[QUOTE=Birdman101;52654450]Is that a cm400a? I dont see a clutch lever there. If so, major props for maintaing such a wierd and fuckin cool bike.
If not still frickin noice[/QUOTE]
No such "luck". Although, there seems to be a ton of CM400a variants when you search for these things for sale.
I'm really stoked for the bike.. the little bit I got to ride it this summer it feels fun. Light but fast enough to do freeway speed. Ever since ThatTaco on here always posted pics of his I've wanted one.
[QUOTE=Slithers;52655836]Why? They really aren't bad, every MB I have owned has come with a wheel alignment pin in the spare tire kit.
[t]https://dq4zp01npifg0.cloudfront.net/sites/default/files/content/files/wheelpin4%20copy.jpg[/t]
Makes mounting wheels just as painless as mounting wheels on non German cars.[/QUOTE]
Yeah but what if you want to put on some wider tires/wheels? Won't most stock pins be too short/the wrong diameter?
The more I think about it, the more German engineering, on the more pedestrian level, is like American engineering. Sportier German cars are a different direction, but normal folk cars seem to carry over the same questionable, and sometimes outright bad ideas that American ones do.
I still fucking love Germany though, gonna visit one day, maybe eventually move there.
Today I drove my buddy's new '76 Chevy Bigtruck. He picked it up for $3k, pretty cool. It has a fairly solid cab, a Chevy 350 mated to a 3 speed manual with granny low, and the best part... a big hydraulic dump bed. Did a little work to sort out his audio.. since he can't own a truck without audio
Hated driving it, though. It's a 60mph truck because of the gearing, and the stick shift is horrible. On a car you know exactly what gear you're shifting into.. on here I'm half guessing. Is it 1st or 3rd? We'll find out when I let the clutch out..
Plus is has those horrible old Chevy seatbelts. You pull them out, then the bottom one locks to that length. It won't let you pull it out anymore once you stop. So if a bump squishes you into the seat a little bit the belt slowly tightens around your waist until you have to unclip it, put it back in, then pull it back out and repeat. Or just don't wear it.
It's quite the machine.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/IVukh3Tl.jpg[/img]
Since were getting back into the habit of posting project pictures, here we go:
lifted up the box with ratchet straps
[t]https://i.imgur.com/LqFz1nr.jpg[/t]
[t]https://i.imgur.com/DQeUEdO.jpg[/t]
[t]https://i.imgur.com/FB4tQaa.jpg[/t]
replaced both fuel senders with new ones so I can use the entire tank and have *gasp* [I]working fuel gauges[/I]
[t]https://i.imgur.com/mEhFUoN.jpg[/t]
spilled about 5 gallons of yummy diesel because I parked on a slope
[t]https://i.imgur.com/yTAfZh7.jpg[/t]
The wiring for the old electric tank selector valve included the wiring to switch between the rear and front tanks on the gauge, so instead of running new wire up into the cab for a new switch, I plugged in the old valve, wrapped it in a ziploc bag, and ziptied it to the frame. Now the stock tank selector toggle switch changes which tank the gauge is looking at, while the actual switching is done with manual valves next to the door on the floor. Now I can do fancy stuff like not guesstimating mpg and range based on the odometer, and pump fuel between the two tanks by changing the supply valve and return valve separately.
old muffler
[t]https://i.imgur.com/OzzGQiP.jpg[/t]
new muffler
[t]https://i.imgur.com/jJfHZet.jpg[/t]
painting over rust in the dark
[t]https://i.imgur.com/w8OqdWx.jpg[/t]
rattlecaned over a lot of the scratches and peeled parts
[t]https://i.imgur.com/g922VIB.jpg[/t]
[t]https://i.imgur.com/1whKesa.jpg[/t]
I gotta go find a new bucket of bondo and do major reconstructive farm truck surgery tomorrow
[t]https://i.imgur.com/gED82Is.jpg[/t]
[t]https://i.imgur.com/nSlDaSa.jpg[/t]
[t]https://i.imgur.com/JwD1Wy1.jpg[/t]
I also replaced the pinion seal on the rear diff last night, surprise surprise, the pinion nut was loose. I dont have time to replace the crush sleeve or pinion nut, so loctite and cheater bar it was. At the very least Im gonna replace the [del]chocolate milk[/del] gear oil tomorrow and pray my grandpappy is reaching down from heaven to protect whats left of the pinion gear.
I will also not that it does pretty nasty burnouts with no bed and an "accidental" clutch drop
So my 25-ish year old car has decided it would be great to nuke my starter switch, ac rad fan AND the Vss, all in the span of 5 days...
Fixed the starter switch [i]FUCKING AFTER[/i] I bought a new starter. Left it in, not gonna risk that horse shit.
Then the speed sensor shits itself, fixed it, then it broke again. Welp...
Then in the middle of that debacle, my condenser fan grenades all 4 brushes [i]and[/i] the commutator on the armature. Suffice to say the ghost is long gone, so a $60 12" aftermarket fan has taken up residence. Works out too, I wanted a bit of extra room in that area anyway.
Has anyone used spark plug non foulers/ 02 simulators to make the p0420 go away
I ran an O2 simulator in my grand prix to stop it from going into limp mode since I was running catless (P0420 and P0142) it worked pretty damn well O2 simulators are also big in the 4x4 scene for much the same reason
I've read alot about how its hard to find an O2 simulator thats worth a fuck because of all the knockoffs and poor build quality.
I've searched a fair bit myself and never found one that looked reputable.
[QUOTE=clutch2;52656369]Today I drove my buddy's new '76 Chevy Bigtruck. He picked it up for $3k, pretty cool. It has a fairly solid cab, a Chevy 350 mated to a 3 speed manual with granny low, and the best part... a big hydraulic dump bed. Did a little work to sort out his audio.. since he can't own a truck without audio
Hated driving it, though. It's a 60mph truck because of the gearing, and the stick shift is horrible. On a car you know exactly what gear you're shifting into.. on here I'm half guessing. Is it 1st or 3rd? We'll find out when I let the clutch out..
Plus is has those horrible old Chevy seatbelts. You pull them out, then the bottom one locks to that length. It won't let you pull it out anymore once you stop. So if a bump squishes you into the seat a little bit the belt slowly tightens around your waist until you have to unclip it, put it back in, then pull it back out and repeat. Or just don't wear it.
It's quite the machine.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/IVukh3Tl.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
If you pull the top belt, the bottom unlocks. At least, it does on my '79 and '84.
And yeah, no overdrive on them. My '84 with 700r4 can cruise at 75-80.
[QUOTE=FordLord;52657415]If you pull the top belt, the bottom unlocks. At least, it does on my '79 and '84.
And yeah, no overdrive on them. My '84 with 700r4 can cruise at 75-80.[/QUOTE]
Hmm interesting. My mom's 76 monte is the same way with the bottom belt. I'm gonna try that top belt trick!
Vehicles without overdrive are a Bad Thing. Cruising at 3500rpm at 55mph in my RV was not a fun experience.
I'll just build my spark plug non fouler to work....
The Cel only has to not pop on for ~5 hrs to allow the emissions self check go to complete
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;52657619]Vehicles without overdrive are a Bad Thing. Cruising at 3500rpm at 55mph in my RV was not a fun experience.[/QUOTE]
3600~ at 65 in an NA6 Miata :v: Over 4k at 75.
[QUOTE=Rastadogg;52657964]3600~ at 65 in an NA6 Miata :v: Over 4k at 75.[/QUOTE]
At least that's in a car that loves to rev. That RV had a 440 cube V8 in it. It was not happy above 2k RPM.
So i'm pretty fucking blown away just how well this $1.77 'bluetooth USB A2DP dongle' works.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/kgXxiLW.jpg[/t]
After having driven around in a pretty new Rav4 hybrid, A2DP bluetooth was really a fucking treat. Unfortunatly in my blingo, the current car stereo is JUST a generation newer than ones with bluetooth WITH A2DP support. And poking around for a cheaper alternative to having to buy a brand new stereo, i came across this thing you just shove in USB and AUX, and fuck me, it works pretty damn okay. I didn't even know such a thing existed :v:
[QUOTE=DPKiller;52657168]Has anyone used spark plug non foulers/ 02 simulators to make the p0420 go away[/QUOTE]
by non foulers do you mean the spacer tube dingus thingies that you put between the bung and o2 sensor?
If so, I did that on the vic, the CEL from my clapped out cats was getting annoying and it fixed it right up.
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