Automotive Addicts Lounge V6 - Follow The Leader

[TheBirdman]

[QUOTE=LordCrypto;51974639]seeing how charging an 85kWh Model S battery in 5 minutes would more or less be a wattage upwards of a megawatt

i physically don't think that's possible[/QUOTE]

Exactly. Recharging a gigantic battery will never be as quick or convient as filling up a 19 gallon tank in 2-3 minutes. Imagine going on a road trip and having to stop and wait for an hour every 200 miles.

[editline]17th March 2017[/editline]

[QUOTE=Van-man;51974617]If you are feeling ghetto, then two slim female spade connectors for crimping can be used in place of original connector, but that's if you want a little more assurance while you dig up the correct connector.[/QUOTE]

I did this last fall when i had to replace the cooling fan controller on the vic but it didnt have the right plug. I told myself i would waterproof the socket with grease or hot glue before i coated it with 5 months of salty road slush, but guess what i never did.

[DPkiller]

Idk how legitimate this is but apparently you can get back 10% of what you spent at Harbor Freight due to sale scams.

[url=http://spendlessshopmore.blogspot.com/2017/03/harbor-freight-class-action-settlement.html]Article[/url]
[url=https://secure.gcginc.com/nsp/PocForm.aspx?_ga=1.151846585.1610508716.1489691079]Link[/url]

[Zombii]

[QUOTE=Birdman101;51975092]Exactly. Recharging a gigantic battery will never be as quick or convient as filling up a 19 gallon tank in 2-3 minutes. Imagine going on a road trip and having to stop and wait for an hour every 200 miles.

[editline]17th March 2017[/editline]

I did this last fall when i had to replace the cooling fan controller on the vic but it didnt have the right plug. I told myself i would waterproof the socket with grease or hot glue before i coated it with 5 months of salty road slush, but guess what i never did.[/QUOTE]

if the plans for battery swapping work out, that could be the solution for quick charging.
also iirc musk has talked about megawatt charging before, or at least 350kW+ charging, which would reduce charge times to like, 15 minutes.

i think eventually electric cars will match gasoline/diesel cars in convenience, but probably not for another 5 years for widespread installation and 10 years for widespread use. it's moving pretty fast though.

also registered for another track day in like 2 months. pretty hype. i need to change my brake pads and fluid though... not sure how i'm going to manage that with no tools at the moment and no driveway (just gravel). fuck. i should probably also buy new tires.

[FordLord]

Managed to get one strut swapped out.
After removing it, i pushed the piston down. It would not return at all on its own.
Changed plug wires.
PO had cheap aftermarkets, literally fell apart on removal.

Unfortunately, due to a an injury at work, i was so sore afterwards i had to just call it good and do the other side another day.

[Morgen]

Picked up my new Leaf today and the charger at the dealership was ICEd (regular car parked in EV charging spot) by a pickup truck :v:
They wedged it in between and then 3 cars parked behind it, and it took them about 45 mins to clear out enough cars to get it out. Worst parking lot I have ever seen.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Teci4Z1.jpg[/t]

[turke]

[QUOTE=Morgen;51975650]Picked up my new Leaf today and the charger at the dealership was ICEd (regular car parked in EV charging spot) by a pickup truck :v:
They wedged it in between and then 3 cars parked behind it, and it took them about 45 mins to clear out enough cars to get it out. Worst parking lot I have ever seen.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Teci4Z1.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]

you bought an elephant

[Morgen]

[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;51975666]you bought an elephant[/QUOTE]

I needed a name for my car. Elephant it is! I fucking love my elephant.

[Slayer3032]

-snip-

[Xanadu]

Installed an oversized (wrong part) muffler on the Sunfire and it already sounds better, but the jack stand slipped at some point and took out a brake line. The fun never ends.

[butre]

[QUOTE=DuCT;51974479]Goddamn.

I need to stop looking at Craigslist, and need to start looking at apartment/house listings.

There's a 65 Valiant for 1k nearby with a rusted torsion bar cross member. Fuck I can easily afford it but I need to move. And there is no way my dad would let me keep the car at their house. But it would give him incentive to get the 71 Barracuda done....[/QUOTE]

just find a bitchin van

[editline]18th March 2017[/editline]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;51975226]Idk how legitimate this is but apparently you can get back 10% of what you spent at Harbor Freight due to sale scams.

[url=http://spendlessshopmore.blogspot.com/2017/03/harbor-freight-class-action-settlement.html]Article[/url]
[url=https://secure.gcginc.com/nsp/PocForm.aspx?_ga=1.151846585.1610508716.1489691079]Link[/url][/QUOTE]

I wish I was the kind of person to keep receipts. I'd have enough money for a new project car, or maybe some new horrible freight tools

[Humor]

[QUOTE=Birdman101;51974053]I wont even consider an electic car until either there are universal charging stations at every gas station that can fully charge a battery in under 5 mins, or fusion reactors in the cars. Otherwise gas is the only option, because of energy density and ease of use.

So its gonna be a while for me.[/QUOTE]

You quote ease of use as a reason but surely the ability to simply plug your car in when you get home from work is quite a bit of time saved vs. having to wait at the pump?

[BF]

Hey all. I don't post in this thread at all, but there's been some theory stuff I've been wondering about and would like to here your opinions on it (I swear this isn't homework, I study accounting!):

Virtually all 4WD vehicles (talking about part-time 4WDs such as proper SUVs - not things like AWD Audis or Subarus) have a transfer case after the gearbox, sending power through a driveshaft and diff, to the part-time-driven wheels. That system works; it's very efficient. But the transfer case, additional driveshaft, diff, and halfshafts are heavy.

So what I'm wondering is how the following system would compare: Instead of having the additional mechanical drivetrain components, what if instead, the mechanical drivetrain is only front-engined, FWD, and a dynamo is mounted to the crank, however it normally it does nothing. But when you go into 4WD mode, the dynamo is engaged, absorbs some power from the crank (of course, slowing down the crank), and sends that power to electric motors at the rear wheels? So some power goes mechanically to the front wheels, while the rest goes electrically to the rear.

I understand there would be efficiency losses - about 10% at the dynamo, and another 10% at the electric motors, compared to what, 5% for a mechanical drivetrain? But what I'm interested in is the weight savings. Because instead of a complicated front-engined, 4WD drivetrain, the only extra things you really need to add in are the dynamo and electric motors. But, would I be correct to assume that the dynamo (well, electric motor at this point) could also, at other times, function as both the starter motor and a regenerative brake?

This is regarding part-time 4WDs of course, where 99% of the time they are driven in 2WD mode. I understand that most 4WDs have low and high range options in the transfer case, which you wouldn't have with this idea. I'm just trying to wonder if there are any other reasons, perhaps aside from cost, why manufacturers don't do this kind of thing.

[Scientwist]

It likely has to do with efficiency and the actual power needed to drive the dynamo. Parasitic power losses aside these days, with average HPs being 200 or more were not likely very efficient or practical.

It also adds a level of complexity that most people don't want to deal with. Besides, if your going to add in a dynamo or generator system like what you propose, may as well have it all-time rather then part time to take load off the engine. Proper computer programing would be able to balance power requirements or requests easily with what we have today, which would be great for gas savings but this is basically what the Prius is set up as minus the 4WD.

The electric motor will move the car up 15MPH or/unless the gas is hammered and after the engine starts the motor turns into a dynamo/generator to keep the batteries charged. Practicality is, what I assume, keeps something like this from being a thing.

[BF]

[QUOTE=Scientwist;51976551]It likely has to do with efficiency and the actual power needed to drive the dynamo. Parasitic power losses aside these days, with average HPs being 200 or more were not likely very efficient or practical.

It also adds a level of complexity that most people don't want to deal with. Besides, if your going to add in a dynamo or generator system like what you propose, may as well have it all-time rather then part time to take load off the engine. Proper computer programing would be able to balance power requirements or requests easily with what we have today, which would be great for gas savings but this is basically what the Prius is set up as minus the 4WD.

The electric motor will move the car up 15MPH or/unless the gas is hammered and after the engine starts the motor turns into a dynamo/generator to keep the batteries charged. Practicality is, what I assume, keeps something like this from being a thing.[/QUOTE]

Why would it running full-time be a good idea? No one needs four driven wheels during normal driving, and I don't see how it would 'take load off of the engine' when the point of the dynamo is to absorb power from the engine, and divert it to the rear wheels (like in a conventional 4WD drivetrain, except power is sent electrically rather than mechanically). When in 4WD mode it would be much less efficient than 2WD (when the dynamo is disengaged and the car functions as a traditional front-wheel drive) mode because of the efficiency losses in the electric system. The point of the system, as opposed to conventional 4WD, is weight savings and could easily allow a regenerative braking system to be implemented.

The only thing in my post regarding batteries was how the system could also be used as a regenerative brake (even then, it could be like Mazda's i-ELOOP which doesn't use batteries), but that's it. I'm talking more about geared mechanical from the engine to the front wheels and petrol-electric from the engine to the rear wheels (directly; no batteries, like locomotives), rather than a hybrid system where there's power coming from an ICE, plus electric motors supplied by a battery. So I'm not following you on your last paragraph.

[editline]18th March 2017[/editline]

The reason manufacturers probably don't do it is because the weight savings are probably minimal - eg adding a 4WD drivetrain can easily add 100-140kg, while the electric components of my idea would probably add up to 60kg. Then there's cost and R&D, and yeah probably reliability.

[editline]18th March 2017[/editline]

Also worth mentioning that the 4WD system would only ever be for off-road, up to speeds of 40km/h, like 4WD in most SUVs (as they don't have centre diffs, which would make for a painful on-road experience.

[DPkiller]

I did something odd. I helped re-install a transmission into a Suburban in a walmart parking lot.

The dude was chill af, nam vet pulling a 7x20 slide in camper and 1/2 work deck home made trailer.
Was veryy fun. Learned how hard it is doing a trans on the ground.

[FordLord]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;51975226]Idk how legitimate this is but apparently you can get back 10% of what you spent at Harbor Freight due to sale scams.

[url=http://spendlessshopmore.blogspot.com/2017/03/harbor-freight-class-action-settlement.html]Article[/url]
[url=https://secure.gcginc.com/nsp/PocForm.aspx?_ga=1.151846585.1610508716.1489691079]Link[/url][/QUOTE]

I work at Harbor Freight.
Everyone at my location hates the 'comp at' pricing. I was there when it first rolled out.
It used to show our prices before discounts, now it just shows a made up price afaik.
We are told to say 'Those are our local competitors prices!" Though, we have no idea where the numbers are from.

If you give your number, its possible they've been emailing your reciepts. I plan to file, my reciepts are via email.

[Scientwist]

[QUOTE=BF;51976724]Why would it running full-time be a good idea? No one needs four driven wheels during normal driving, and I don't see how it would 'take load off of the engine' when the point of the dynamo is to absorb power from the engine, and divert it to the rear wheels (like in a conventional 4WD drivetrain, except power is sent electrically rather than mechanically). When in 4WD mode it would be much less efficient than 2WD (when the dynamo is disengaged and the car functions as a traditional front-wheel drive) mode because of the efficiency losses in the electric system. The point of the system, as opposed to conventional 4WD, is weight savings and could easily allow a regenerative braking system to be implemented.

The only thing in my post regarding batteries was how the system could also be used as a regenerative brake (even then, it could be like Mazda's i-ELOOP which doesn't use batteries), but that's it. I'm talking more about geared mechanical from the engine to the front wheels and petrol-electric from the engine to the rear wheels (directly; no batteries, like locomotives), rather than a hybrid system where there's power coming from an ICE, plus electric motors supplied by a battery. So I'm not following you on your last paragraph.

[editline]18th March 2017[/editline]

The reason manufacturers probably don't do it is because the weight savings are probably minimal - eg adding a 4WD drivetrain can easily add 100-140kg, while the electric components of my idea would probably add up to 60kg. Then there's cost and R&D, and yeah probably reliability.

[editline]18th March 2017[/editline]

Also worth mentioning that the 4WD system would only ever be for off-road, up to speeds of 40km/h, like 4WD in most SUVs (as they don't have centre diffs, which would make for a painful on-road experience.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I should have elaborated on that, rather then have it full time like conventional 4wd have the 4wd elements be balanced between mechanical and electrical. Like use the rear wheels for instant torque and regen braking, this would take load off the engine on take-off. Normal driving would keep the battries charged, while any needs for extra power could be given on a moments notice from the rears.

I don't think that kind of system would be very good for off roading kinda things, but that kinda system has never been tried, so I can't say for sure. Besides, having 2 rear wheels with independent motors running them wouldn't be as bad as a normal 4wd on the road as there is no discrepancy in gear ratios that would cause the tires to scrub. So handling wouldn't be as affected.

[DPkiller]

[QUOTE=FordLord;51977130]I work at Harbor Freight.
Everyone at my location hates the 'comp at' pricing. I was there when it first rolled out.
It used to show our prices before discounts, now it just shows a made up price afaik.
We are told to say 'Those are our local competitors prices!" Though, we have no idea where the numbers are from.

If you give your number, its possible they've been emailing your reciepts. I plan to file, my reciepts are via email.[/QUOTE]

We have 300$ in email receipts just in "you saved" and a rough estimate of 1-3k total. Gonna go up to the bank tomorrow and make the bank pull up every transaction from HF so I can do option A and B. Cant wait for that juicy gift card.

[editline]18th March 2017[/editline]

[t]http://i.imgur.com/96RlYv1.jpg[/t]

[butre]

[QUOTE=BF;51976425]Hey all. I don't post in this thread at all, but there's been some theory stuff I've been wondering about and would like to here your opinions on it (I swear this isn't homework, I study accounting!):

Virtually all 4WD vehicles (talking about part-time 4WDs such as proper SUVs - not things like AWD Audis or Subarus) have a transfer case after the gearbox, sending power through a driveshaft and diff, to the part-time-driven wheels. That system works; it's very efficient. But the transfer case, additional driveshaft, diff, and halfshafts are heavy.

So what I'm wondering is how the following system would compare: Instead of having the additional mechanical drivetrain components, what if instead, the mechanical drivetrain is only front-engined, FWD, and a dynamo is mounted to the crank, however it normally it does nothing. But when you go into 4WD mode, the dynamo is engaged, absorbs some power from the crank (of course, slowing down the crank), and sends that power to electric motors at the rear wheels? So some power goes mechanically to the front wheels, while the rest goes electrically to the rear.

I understand there would be efficiency losses - about 10% at the dynamo, and another 10% at the electric motors, compared to what, 5% for a mechanical drivetrain? But what I'm interested in is the weight savings. Because instead of a complicated front-engined, 4WD drivetrain, the only extra things you really need to add in are the dynamo and electric motors. But, would I be correct to assume that the dynamo (well, electric motor at this point) could also, at other times, function as both the starter motor and a regenerative brake?

This is regarding part-time 4WDs of course, where 99% of the time they are driven in 2WD mode. I understand that most 4WDs have low and high range options in the transfer case, which you wouldn't have with this idea. I'm just trying to wonder if there are any other reasons, perhaps aside from cost, why manufacturers don't do this kind of thing.[/QUOTE]

front wheel drive is hell for towing. I personally wouldn't be interested in such a system

[Rævskjegg]

[QUOTE=Morgen;51975650]Picked up my new Leaf today and the charger at the dealership was ICEd (regular car parked in EV charging spot) by a pickup truck :v:
They wedged it in between and then 3 cars parked behind it, and it took them about 45 mins to clear out enough cars to get it out. Worst parking lot I have ever seen.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Teci4Z1.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]

My deepest condolences

[sp]congrats with a new car though[/sp]

[BF]

[QUOTE=butre;51977697]front wheel drive is hell for towing. I personally wouldn't be interested in such a system[/QUOTE]

That is actually a point that I did not think about. Thank you

[mastoner20]

[QUOTE=evilweazel;51972077]What part of Virginny do u live in ?[/QUOTE]

Roanoke. Also known as Virginia's Hicktown Appalachia capital.

[Sonador]

[QUOTE=butre;51977697]front wheel drive is hell for towing. I personally wouldn't be interested in such a system[/QUOTE]

I loathe just about anything FWD. It makes the steering feel like fisher price and pulling a car around turns is the worst butthole puckering thing I'll ever experience

[DPkiller]

I like rippin burnouts in a FWD, point to go that direction.

[Trekintosh]

[QUOTE=DPKiller;51978637]I like rippin burnouts in a FWD, point to go that direction.[/QUOTE]

Unless it's any sort of powerful FWD car in which case it's "point and go any direction but that" because torque steer. (Longitudal fwd like cadillacs notwithstanding of course)

[DPkiller]

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;51978688]Unless it's any sort of powerful FWD car in which case it's "point and go any direction but that" because torque steer. (Longitudal fwd like cadillacs notwithstanding of course)[/QUOTE]

280hp in a fwd is powerful enough and I didn't notice it.

[butre]

you could change lanes just by mashing the gas in my old malibu. some cars (hondas in particular) don't torque steer much because they were smart about axle length and slip ratios

[Strontboer]

Engine is in! But not after some issues.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/MdKYY4h.jpg[/img]

With the E36 transmission mounted to the engine, the starter was EXACTLY in the spot of the crankshaft sensor. And since both are kind of useful I needed to find a transmission where the starter bolts up a bit higher.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/5NVvZSA.jpg[/img]

So this morning I picked up a new transmission, bolted the shit right up and put the engine in its final position.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/zDMioUa.jpg[/img]

Also installed the Euro S50 headers. (Some time with the angle grinder was required :v:)

[img]http://i.imgur.com/gqbDmWS.jpg[/img]

So yay, I now have a heavy paperweight in my engine bay.

[Gulen]

Had a mate take the YBR's exhaust with him to work to fix up the horrible shite welding job the previous owners had done. Turns out it was a joint between stainless and regular steel, so a coworker had to do it. Got it back on Thursday, hit it with a rattle can job yesterday and put it on today. I think it looks really good for a quick 10 minute rattle can job in the dark, at a couple degrees celcius with wind and rain.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/Yn6v5g3.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nQgQZ1n.jpg[/t]

Of course I didn't get a shot of the weld itself, but it's visible but not an eyesore. Of course, while I was fighting with the bike trying to get back one of the exhaust bolts I could see under the Saab, and well... It wasn't pretty.

Had both CV joints replaced a couple weeks back, and I've recently had a knocking sound over bumps like before I replaced the joints which has been getting progressively worse:

Driver's side: The boot is completely off the joint. No idea where the clamp is.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ZAOdoQy.jpg[/t]

Passenger's side: Boot is almost entirely on, but as you can see by the massive amounts of grease under it, it's leaking out.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Y8pZvF1.jpg[/t]

So I get to take it my mechanic tomorrow and have him fix it. Again.

[DPkiller]

[QUOTE=Gulen;51979150]Had a mate take the YBR's exhaust with him to work to fix up the horrible shite welding job the previous owners had done. Turns out it was a joint between stainless and regular steel, so a coworker had to do it. Got it back on Thursday, hit it with a rattle can job yesterday and put it on today. I think it looks really good for a quick 10 minute rattle can job in the dark, at a couple degrees celcius with wind and rain.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/Yn6v5g3.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/nQgQZ1n.jpg[/t]

Of course I didn't get a shot of the weld itself, but it's visible but not an eyesore. Of course, while I was fighting with the bike trying to get back one of the exhaust bolts I could see under the Saab, and well... It wasn't pretty.

Had both CV joints replaced a couple weeks back, and I've recently had a knocking sound over bumps like before I replaced the joints which has been getting progressively worse:

Driver's side: The boot is completely off the joint. No idea where the clamp is.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ZAOdoQy.jpg[/t]

Passenger's side: Boot is almost entirely on, but as you can see by the massive amounts of grease under it, it's leaking out.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ZAOdoQy.jpg[/t]

So I get to take it my mechanic tomorrow and have him fix it. Again.[/QUOTE]

Damn your passenger side is identical to your driver side. Amazing how stuff wears evenly.
[sp]kek [/sp]