[QUOTE=Code3Response;52064867]I'm determined to not be beat by a seized rusty bolt. But God damn a low profile 11/16 socket would be awesome[/QUOTE]
If you have room and are not afraid of a propane torch, blast it with high heat and spray it down with WD-40.
Cool, not cold, water will work too. The heating causes the metal to expand and the WD or water makes it contract real fast like usually breaking what ever bond is going on there and WD tends to get pulled into any spaces it can make it into. Do not use this method on aluminum or you'll just either melt the aluminum or critically weaken it. Slowly torch first if already sprayed with something, because fire.
In other news, I took the rotors back after again tearing what feels like the whole front end apart and the guy who is kind of a friend basically just gave me new rotors.
He said they were to far gone to try and cut again and said not to worry about it. By the way, all pulsing gone.:v:
If your wrench is almost rounding off (like the open part flexes) I've had to hunt down a flare wrench. (Seems like it grabs better than the box end because I've stripped nuts with box ends
[thumb]http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/FNW10/image/2/[/thumb]
Grabs a lot better, if you cant get enough power on it, cut off the other side and slide a pipe over, only a wrench.
the problem with box wrenches is that they're usually 12 point. track down a 6 point box wrench
I got an actual exhaust gasket and the proper jets for my minibike today, and I replaced a 13 tooth sprocket with a 15 tooth one. I lost my piece of paper with all the teeth and gear ratios on it, but by my calculations, its got about 2 more teeth of torque. It probably wont do 50 now unless I remove the governor, but itll do wheelies about midrange through the "gear" now. Starting off is a little more snappy, but its hard to tell much difference with a half melted clutch. Any speed after the clutch is fully engaged, shes a snorty lil bastard now.
I was taking it on a feature length test drive around the neighborhood, and the key for the new sprocket fell out, right as I was riding circles in the rich cul-de-sac, and I had to push it home. Any test drive where you break something is a successful test drive, especially when the part that breaks it a vital part of the drivetrain and without it, your brakes dont work either. Id be pissed if it fell out 3 miles down the road at cruising speed.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;52065251]If your wrench is almost rounding off (like the open part flexes) I've had to hunt down a flare wrench. (Seems like it grabs better than the box end because I've stripped nuts with box ends
[thumb]http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/FNW10/image/2/[/thumb]
Grabs a lot better, if you cant get enough power on it, cut off the other side and slide a pipe over, only a wrench.[/QUOTE]
I'll post a photo when I can. A breaker bar is not an option. A socket is not an option. I'll have to muscle this bolt out using a wrench and maybe the janky two-wrench "breaker bar"
The bolt is in the wheel well which kills a lot of possibilities. Then you can't get a wrench on it which really kills a lot. Going to give penetrating oil and heat another go on Friday
[editline]5th April 2017[/editline]
I was able to do pull ups on the wrench trying to break it free. It was nuts. Winter really did it in with rust
Reminds me of last time I had to remove my O2 sensors, I had to figure out fords terrible 3d puzzle of a plug, then break part of the plug so I could thread it though a box end, then daisy chain another wrench onto the open end, then while laying on my creeper, thread one leg sort of up over the driveshaft, scoot under the wrenches, and execute some greasy kind of americas got talent contortionist deadlift sort of motion with every bit of my strength to slowly turn the bastard.
My dads favorite method is to find a really tight fitting wrench, jam it on, then FUCK THE SHIT OUT OF IT WITH A BIG ASS RIVET GUN
[QUOTE=DPKiller;52063742]I rub against tree limbs too often with my rigs and sends horrible scratches down the side...I have only waxed it once and it took about 8 hrs to just do the cab, had to do a lot of cutting which had to do so much cutting it compromised the clear and now I have no clear. So fuckit.
I only care about interior cleanliness now. One day I will paint the exterior when I get lowering shackles and spindles.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/o9c9Nnr.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Thought the seat was mounted on cinder blocks from the thumbnail.
Got an expensive exhaust for basically free.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/k1yW7gb.png[/img]
It's stainless, with a wall thickness of 1mm (3/64 ″)
It's extremely light. From a brand called REMUS. Seems to retail for about 1 to 1.5k.
Will have to re-weld everything. As most of the joints have repairs on them (Exhaust is from a national rally champion competitors car)
Gonna polish it all up n shit
The deal I have with the person I bought my Suzuki Savage from is that if I should ever want to get rid of it, I sell it back to him. That complicates my plans to rebuild the bike, since it's his dead brother-in-law's bike, and I'd feel like a turd if I completely changed it. That said, I'm still going to change it, but just keep all the original parts so I can put it back together if I give it back.
That said, I'm thinking of replacing my rear turn signals with these LED strips, along the back fender. Lower profile means it'll be less of a hassle if the bike should get laid down again.
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Motorcycle-Signal-Indicator-Blinker/dp/B0179FOLOY/ref=sr_1_26?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491454916&sr=1-26[/url]
I'd also like to find low-profile turn signals for the front mounts, too. My end goal with the bike is to have it as robust and hard-to-break as possible. Any suggestions for attaining this goal?
[QUOTE=Aetna;52062573]Excellent choice of wheels, looks great man.[/QUOTE]
Thanks man, they're actually getting sold tomorrow, not gonna lie I'll kinda miss them, but bigger and better things await lol
I miss the old sub-forum.
I miss all the old fpers that posted constant content.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;52065966]I miss all the old fpers that posted constant content.[/QUOTE]
Yeah like cubeman
tbh it feels as if there's quite a bit of car diy content
Speaking of DIYing, I don't know if I asked it before anymore but what steps does one take to troubleshoot a failing speedometer?
My dad's Peugeot 406's speedometer occasionally drops to zero while driving (or standing still, hurr), and simultaneously the odometer won't count either since both are linked. Occasionally you can see the needle flick up to about 10km/h while driving about 50km/h, fluctuates there a bit and then dies again.
I was wondering if getting a Bluetooth ECU reader and checking if the ECU still gets a reading while the speedometer doesn't work will give an insight on what the problem might be?
That's a good start, sounds like an electric short if it's reading intermittently. The ECU will tell you if there's a short between the wheels and the control module, if not, something's wrong with the dash wiring or the control board on your speedo.
Right now I'm looking at some Bluetooth OBD2 scanners, but I have no idea if this one is compatible with our car:
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-ELM327-OBDII-Bluetooth-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-ECU-Code-Reader-Scanner-Tool-/132071601810?hash=item1ec014b692:g:awMAAOSwUKxYg5rh[/url]
I at least managed to find the OBD port in the car itself but that probably won't mean a lot.
[T]https://i.imgur.com/ngPH5qy.jpg[/T]
Most not completely shit OBD scanners will work with the port if they fit. They're typically programmed to read and understand most manufacturer's protocols.
If you plan to use it sparingly, I'd just invest in a corded one. I keep mine in my glove box.
[QUOTE=Sonador;52066401]Most not completely shit OBD scanners will work with the port if they fit. They're typically programmed to read and understand most manufacturer's protocols.
If you plan to use it sparingly, I'd just invest in a corded one. I keep mine in my glove box.[/QUOTE]
I've noticed older cars aren't too picky about the cheap ones. Since they run at such a slow baud rate anyway. On newer cars, things get dicier because of module programming and being higher speed. Switching between MS-CAN and HS-CAN is a real problem for the cheap ones.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;52065966]I miss all the old fpers that posted constant content.[/QUOTE]
sup
Yeh I can post lots of content from dashcam
granted it'd just be me driving around slightly over the speed limit and and motion subtle middle fingers at people and calling them ignorant dicksukkers for trying to merge into me or driving on the wrong side of the road and etc.
O and embarrassingly stopping too long at red lights so I can snapchat a picture of a funny license plate to my pals
no one said it had to be good content, right? heh
I should use my dashcam but the piece of shit never wants to work right when it's supposed to.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;52066866]sup[/QUOTE]
No, like brad and his Hondas.
Edbeeg blowing trans's before it was cool.
Shibahn posting Nissan stuff before it was cool.
Dbk keeping it classy with a built in liquor cabinet in his 7.
Alec W with miata and z3?
Concor with his jeeps.
Siminov with his alfa and volvos.
Justin with his rx7.
Doxdonutt with his impala's.
Dylan with his turbo honda.
Brm with his alfa.
Killertele with his jeep? Vw truck?
Jomt with his Volvo and penis swinging avatar.
Old. I miss the people that would almost every other day would post that they blew something up.
Siminov just bought like his 5th Volvo and recently got rear-ended in the white wagon (850?) IIRC.
I don't do enough long distance driving to warrant putting up dash cam videos, plus being a dual camera jig it would be boring plus staring at my face and anybody else who happens to be in the car.
I'm thinking about getting a rear-facing camera for my worktruck.
I'd like to have a simple screen, and a rear facing cam + a interior cam. (Because I often transport fragile stuff and would like to keep an eye out inside)
Anyone got any experience with ebay/chinese stuff? Anything you recomend?
I've been considering a dashcam because where I live no cunt can drive properly or knows how to use a roundabout. I've been looking on ebay but I'm not really sure what's any use. I don't want to spend too much on it, some chinese bollocks would likely do fine. I should have bought one of the ones the auto parts place I worked at got in just before I got laid off, but I never got one.
anyone have any suggestions for something under £50/$60?
[QUOTE=Strontboer;52067432]I'm thinking about getting a rear-facing camera for my worktruck.
I'd like to have a simple screen, and a rear facing cam + a interior cam. (Because I often transport fragile stuff and would like to keep an eye out inside)
Anyone got any experience with ebay/chinese stuff? Anything you recomend?[/QUOTE]
Just a regular backup cam? I've got a €7 one off Ebay hooked up to my Pioneer HU, works flawlessly. It does get covered in dirt and rain though, but even at night it's awesome and works much better than a €100+ Pioneer one. I've also thought about having multiple cameras like you if I ever got a truck or enclosed trailer (one on top of the cab, one showing the back of the truck, and one on the back of the trailer), should be pretty easy to do with a switch.
I may have just asked across the best and simplest idea ever that i can't find a single example of on the internet. Get this. Instead of buying a heavier duty clutch or torque converter for your jumped up overgeared minibike, get a $15 chineesium clutch, and bolt on a 4" plastic fan to the outside of it, to keep it cool enough to not glaze the shoes and melt the springs.
Either that or a lemons rally inspired water squirter to cool it off periodically.
[QUOTE=dcalde78;52067458]I've been considering a dashcam because where I live no cunt can drive properly or knows how to use a roundabout. I've been looking on ebay but I'm not really sure what's any use. I don't want to spend too much on it, some chinese bollocks would likely do fine. I should have bought one of the ones the auto parts place I worked at got in just before I got laid off, but I never got one.
anyone have any suggestions for something under £50/$60?[/QUOTE]
I got a super cheap wide angle backup camera and 12v 7"screen in my truck, and since even with the brightness turned down, its blindingly bright at night, i have the power for it on a toggle switch, which is also good because the power button on the screen doesn't work.
[editline]6th April 2017[/editline]
Turns out you get what you pay for
After all these years of being in a shit factory job, I finally got out of it and begin working as an entry level tech for a shop tomorrow. Finally be able to put what I know to work and expand my mechanical knowledge.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
