I saw a Ranger EV in the wild once last year, it was going very slowly in the slow lane.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;52103298]I saw a Ranger EV in the wild once last year, it was going very slowly in the slow lane.[/QUOTE]
they didn't make many of those, and most of what they did make was leased. that's a rare sight for sure
[QUOTE=butre;52103259]wasn't the first commercially successful one either, even post revival. that goes to the GM EV1
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
what the fuck is a milk float
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
the gm ev1 did a pretty good job shattering the golf cart perception[/QUOTE]
[quote]In British English, a milk float is a vehicle specifically designed for the delivery of fresh milk. Today, milk floats are usually battery electric vehicles (BEV), but they were formerly horse-drawn. They were once common in many European countries, particularly the United Kingdom, and were operated by local dairies.[/quote]
[img]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cd/Milk_float_-_Liverpool_%28modified_background%29.jpg[/img]
you'd drown in pussy if you rolled in one of these bad boys
[QUOTE=dcalde78;52103357][img]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cd/Milk_float_-_Liverpool_%28modified_background%29.jpg[/img]
you'd drown in pussy if you rolled in one of these bad boys[/QUOTE]
'eyy bb those bottles arent filled with milk if yaknowwhatimean'
[QUOTE=butre;52103278]that's just down to big oil being evil and gm being in their pocket. if you believe the conspiracy theorists anyway.
I was aware of them back then, and I've never been an EV nerd
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
it wasn't slow as balls, it was slow as every other 90's car. you gotta piss with the cock you got and when that cock is 1997 nothing quick is gonna come out of it
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
and shit a tesla roadster is slow as balls too
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
I mean seriously, 125 mph?[/QUOTE]
It's magnitudes quicker though compared to every other EV before, and it had decent range.
Does anyone know how the fuck I can attach these little fuckers to wires? They are way smaller then anything ive ever used. bmw part number 61138366260
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7111Gdb.png[/img][img]http://i.imgur.com/cBmv7Yj.png[/img]
They are used in ECU connectors like this
[img]http://i.imgur.com/sMStMx7.png[/img]
[QUOTE=Araknid;52103369]'eyy bb those bottles arent filled with milk if yaknowwhatimean'[/QUOTE]
quick somebody post that Fergie video
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=Strontboer;52103448]Does anyone know how the fuck I can attach these little fuckers to wires? They are way smaller then anything ive ever used. bmw part number 61138366260
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7111Gdb.png[/img][img]http://i.imgur.com/cBmv7Yj.png[/img]
[/QUOTE]
One of these should do the trick [img]http://www.narva.com.au/sitebuilder/pressreleases/knowledge/asset/medium/141/56513_image.jpg[/img]
I got this badboy,
but I have no idea which "socket' i should use
[img]http://i.imgur.com/UmdV0qQ.png[/img]
[QUOTE=Araknid;52103369]'eyy bb those bottles arent filled with milk if yaknowwhatimean'[/QUOTE]
the stereotype of british housewives sleeping with the milkman came about for a reason
I can't tell from your image if you have them but use the ones shaped like this
[img]http://i.imgur.com/TKiNIP3.png[/img]
Basically the tangs of the crimp (the ends of the "U" shaped bit) will go into the red circled areas.
My pliers are double action so they crimp the conductor and insulator at the same time neatly, with some pliers you'll have to change sizes for each terminal and it can be finicky
These coilovers sure are confusing me. Before on the lowering springs anytime I hit a bridge I would lift out of my seat and come back down. It's not that bad any more even though the spring rates are 1.5x more than before. I have them on 0 of 32 on "harshness", so now it glides over bridges (maybe a little bump) but now normal driving is a little... Wavy? If I had tits my chest would be constantly flopping.
Any one know where I can get custom coils for BC BR Coilovers? Right now the front is 320 (Stock is 170) and the rear is 250 (maybe?) (Stock is 140ish). I might look into going a little stiffer than stock but not how it is now. You literally can't move the car by sitting on it, standing on the door jams, you can shove and push as much as you want, that mother fucker is stiff. Will not budge.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/WHHraVq.jpg[/t]
Car is leveled now though. The firm ride feels nice and different. I also installed a solid trans mount, shifting is WAY easier. You can basically drop the clutch and the engine doesn't bob back and forth.
well I went to fit a full size wheel into the space for the spare in the back of my Fiesta and it turns out it isn't possible to fit a full size wheel into the well. which is a pain in the ass. but I did find a funnel in the boot for the capless filler neck so that you can use jerry cans to fill it (usually only a normal fuel filler nozzle will allow entry). now that I've found that I can start powering through the Miller's petrol fuel additive I have to boost the octane a little (fuel quality here is piss poor here, bog standard is supposed to be 95 ron and ours has been tested at 91 or so)
[QUOTE=Van-man;52102335]Ebay switchmode modules, also see if you can somehow get access to ELSAwin, should have wiring schematics for everything VAG makes.
I have personally abused the fuck out of a Peugeot badge-engineered model.
Safe to say it's worthy of the Peugeot badge.[/QUOTE]
I've actually found my way into having ELSAwin access, thanks for the tip. Also I could buy a switching power supply but that defeats the point of coming in quite under budget. If it was a real issue I'd just buy a set of switching voltage regs for like $10/ea and make my own. I just have a surplus of electronics parts kicking about that I can use instead for basically free and a linear reg shouldn't be a huge deal now that I've done the math on my potential loads.
[video=youtube;zrehQjsz5ck]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrehQjsz5ck[/video]
The world is a worse place without these being made. Hope I get to own one some day.
1:13 made me N U T :trumpet:
Hard to say its a worse place when no one bought the vehicle to begin with
People are dumb
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
people are broke/too poor
[editline]14th April 2017[/editline]
Im both :/
I vacuumed a half-gallon of water and mud out of the porsche's right-hand carpets and they're still wet. Fortunately, though, they look fantastic. They're just damp. But I've gotten most of the standing water and mud and earthworms out. I've left the sunroof open to try and dry the rest out before it mildews.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;52104622]I vacuumed a half-gallon of water and mud out of the porsche's right-hand carpets and they're still wet. Fortunately, though, they look fantastic. They're just damp. But I've gotten most of the standing water and mud and earthworms out. I've left the sunroof open to try and dry the rest out before it mildews.[/QUOTE]
could always use the cat litter in an old sock trick, not sure how effective that is but loads of people seem to do it. far cheaper than actual car dehumidifiers as well. make up a few of them, stick a couple on the dash, one on each front seat and a few on the rear seat. should be able to leave all the doors and windows closed with them in the car.
[QUOTE=Morgen;52098979]I'm just having a bit of fun with you guys. :chillout:[/QUOTE]
[URL="http://i.imgur.com/n8umjWj.png"]"Hurr durr look how much of a shill I am"[/URL]
"Fuck off shill"
"Jokes on them I was only pretending"
Couldn't find a way to make the pic look nice, so have this.
Hey, I'm thinking of trying to get into body work and repair/refurbishing/etc for fun. I'm not incredibly knowledgable about how to work with cars, but I have an old '89 Honda Civic (it doesnt run and I'm not sure what exactly is wrong with it) I was going to experiment on as a project car while I learn. Any tips you guys could give me how to start and get my feet wet?
Diagnose what's wrong with your car, that's pretty much the easiest and cheapest way to get started. Look for "diagnosis not starting", that should point you in the right direction
[QUOTE=evilweazel;52104555][video=youtube;zrehQjsz5ck]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrehQjsz5ck[/video]
The world is a worse place without these being made. Hope I get to own one some day.
1:13 made me N U T :trumpet:[/QUOTE]
The behind the scenes video has a lot of great extra footage.
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=2kdq-7AlfEc[/media]
Pennzoil should make a full-length film. This is a great crew. I would absolutely watch a 2 and a half hour Pennzoil commercial if it looked like this. :v:
[QUOTE=F.X Clampazzo;52104529]I've actually found my way into having ELSAwin access, thanks for the tip. Also I could buy a switching power supply but that defeats the point of coming in quite under budget. If it was a real issue I'd just buy a set of switching voltage regs for like $10/ea and make my own. I just have a surplus of electronics parts kicking about that I can use instead for basically free and a linear reg shouldn't be a huge deal now that I've done the math on my potential loads.[/QUOTE]
Those 7805's dumps the voltage difference at given current load as heat, but you most likely knows this.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;52103715]These coilovers sure are confusing me. Before on the lowering springs anytime I hit a bridge I would lift out of my seat and come back down. It's not that bad any more even though the spring rates are 1.5x more than before. I have them on 0 of 32 on "harshness", so now it glides over bridges (maybe a little bump) but now normal driving is a little... Wavy? If I had tits my chest would be constantly flopping.
Any one know where I can get custom coils for BC BR Coilovers? Right now the front is 320 (Stock is 170) and the rear is 250 (maybe?) (Stock is 140ish). I might look into going a little stiffer than stock but not how it is now. You literally can't move the car by sitting on it, standing on the door jams, you can shove and push as much as you want, that mother fucker is stiff. Will not budge.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/WHHraVq.jpg[/t]
Car is leveled now though. The firm ride feels nice and different. I also installed a solid trans mount, shifting is WAY easier. You can basically drop the clutch and the engine doesn't bob back and forth.[/QUOTE]
Adjustable shocks are usually more happy somewhere closer to the middle of the adjustment than pegged all the way in a direction. I wouldn't turn them all the way soft/hard and leave them at least until they've broken in and you find that it rides and handles better that way. You also may have the preload set wrong.
It's going to take a month or so until you get used to your suspension as it settles and breaks in. I find shocks take a few weeks before you really feel what they are going to be like.
320/250 is a pretty good spring rate, you're definitely going to feel a difference over stock and you're going to start to feel how shitty your roads are.
If you want to change out the springs, QA1 sells the cheapest coilover springs you're going to find but you're going to need to do all of your own research into the sizing.
You might be looking for a softer spring with stiffer swaybars, FWD cars are boring without stiff swaybars.
[QUOTE=Van-man;52105006]Those 7805's dumps the voltage difference at given current load as heat, but you most likely knows this.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I'm planning on essentially running enough of them in parallel to keep the heat spread out across a heat sink with a small fan or two to provide air flow through it. It's no more efficient in terms of total heat generated of course, but it'll keep the individual chips running much cooler since each one shouldn't be operating too near 1A, though I think my heat sink is big enough to allow 1A draw from each chip if I wanted to or really needed it. They're pretty beefy little chips honestly, lots of 80's technology pulls a straight 12v or more to a 7805 that doesn't have much more heat spread to it than it being screwed to the RF-shield with only passive cooling.
Plus they should do a bang-up job of making sure everything on the other end of them is decently protected since they'll either do what they do best or they'll pop.
Based on my calculations, I should get about 2-3 phones charging while operating the project computer I want to put in later assuming I'm running at my optimal load, and depending on if I turn the display on or off for it, how many peripherals it uses, haven't 100% got that figured out yet, but that project is later when I can always build a new voltage regulator (probably a switching one because I really don't want to deal with the heat from more linear regulators than this, inefficiency is a pain) or just buy one, whatever.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;52103715]These coilovers sure are confusing me. Before on the lowering springs anytime I hit a bridge I would lift out of my seat and come back down. It's not that bad any more even though the spring rates are 1.5x more than before. I have them on 0 of 32 on "harshness", so now it glides over bridges (maybe a little bump) but now normal driving is a little... Wavy? If I had tits my chest would be constantly flopping.
Any one know where I can get custom coils for BC BR Coilovers? Right now the front is 320 (Stock is 170) and the rear is 250 (maybe?) (Stock is 140ish). I might look into going a little stiffer than stock but not how it is now. You literally can't move the car by sitting on it, standing on the door jams, you can shove and push as much as you want, that mother fucker is stiff. Will not budge.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/WHHraVq.jpg[/t]
Car is leveled now though. The firm ride feels nice and different. I also installed a solid trans mount, shifting is WAY easier. You can basically drop the clutch and the engine doesn't bob back and forth.[/QUOTE]
BC sells springs in all different rates and lengths on their site, you can also order Swift springs for some extra, personally I would turn up the damping somewhat, I was having the same wallowy feeling when I first put mine on and left them at 0 as well, but I turned it up to I think 12 all around, and it felt a lot more stable, without rattling the teeth out of your head.
[QUOTE=evilweazel;52104555][video=youtube;zrehQjsz5ck]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrehQjsz5ck[/video]
The world is a worse place without these being made. Hope I get to own one some day.
1:13 made me N U T :trumpet:[/QUOTE]
You'd think with dodge betting the farm on marketing their cars as being crazy powerful, crazy fast and crazy halo machines they'd keep the viper going. Until the new GT came back, it was basically the only american supercar. One would think that they'd market the hell out of that. Or even just throw it in the demon/hellcat/trackhawk lineup as the king halo car.
Weird call.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/FK8nM0p.jpg[/t]
muh new work truk in its natural habitat.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/a3aLqw4.jpg[/t]
it has a steering wheel too and a functional integrated break controller... :mindblown:
6.6MPG!
Do they at-least give you fuel money? (that isn't part of your paycheck?)
is that a 350 or 450?
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