[QUOTE=Birdman101;52130361]Hey i just got beetle brakes and tie rob ends too[/QUOTE]
They're ball joints for the suspension, not the tie rods :v:
God lab punch is awful
Yeah I really don't understand the reasons behind it.
I pretty much only post in this thread. But I'm not sure if I'll keep returning if they try to shove that shit up everyone's ass.
[QUOTE=Strontboer;52130835]Yeah I really don't understand the reasons behind it.
I pretty much only post in this thread. But I'm not sure if I'll keep returning if they try to shove that shit up everyone's ass.[/QUOTE]
The main reason: vb sucks major donkey ass
[QUOTE=Code3Response;52130856]The main reason: vb sucks major donkey ass[/QUOTE]
thats fine but newpunch isnt an upgrade
[QUOTE=FlandersNed;52128546]Steam sounds great from a efficiency standpoint, but what are you using to create the steam in the first place? What are you burning?
Also, you didn't talk about his point that it takes forever to boil a lot of water. What is the throttle response on such a car?[/QUOTE]
Firstly, you can burn whatever you like. Gas has an incredibly high concentration of energy in it which is simply unneeded for external combustion. Which means you can cut out the huge energy expenses in refining. Butane, propane, kerosense, corn oil, grass, straw, wood, coal. if it burns, throw it in there. And the fact that you have a 100% combustion efficiency means that the only pollutants that comes out is whatever was naturally in the fuel to begin with. With a perfectly pure fuel, the only by product would be carbon dioxide. And the earth is basically one giant machine designed specifically to convert dioxide into oxygen.
Secondly, yeah i did. Water tube burner, little bit of water, little bit of energy. Only spend energy when it's needed in a minimal loss situation. It's not a boiler with 50,000 pounds of water in it, it's a steam generator with maybe a few quarts at a time, if that. And it constantly cycles through the car, retaining as much heat as possible in the water, meaning once it's up to temperature the only energy required by the car is to replenish energy that's been lost either to the condensor or mechanical exertion.
As for the throttle response, you build up your pressure in the boiler and tap into that pressure to power the car. And at 750PSI, the steam moves through a 2.5 inch pipe at around 5000 ft/s. GM toyed with steam in the early 70's and during testing noted that throttle response was actually [I]a third[/I] of a carbed engine at the time. And that's with the steam generator in the front and the engine in the back. Imagine having 2500 ft pounds of torque at the wheels faster than a supercharged v8 can make 700. Plus the valve events on poppet valves are far sharper than on piston valves, so all that power can come on faster still. Throttle response is not a problem.
got rear-ended on my way home from the grocery just now
guy was on his phone and didnt see me stopped at a light, slammed on his brakes and his shitty bald all-seasons just slid across the wet pavement and into my car. thankfully my car is fine (and me too) but ill have to take it in to (at the very least) get the hit panel repainted. they may just opt to replace the panels that got hit since theyre kinda bent and just plastic anyway though, i dont know how it goes.
also got a ticket for expired registration because i haven't put my new tags on yet, so that's sweet.
[QUOTE=butre;52130891]thats fine but newpunch isnt an upgrade[/QUOTE]
Didn't work at all on Firefox Mobile.
And if it actually does, then they've included elements in the page from scummy sources that standard filters in uBlock Origin blocks.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;52130856]The main reason: vb sucks major donkey ass[/QUOTE]
Yeah but I'm quite fine with the current level of donkey ass sucking.
[QUOTE=Van-man;52131197]Didn't work at all on Firefox Mobile.[/QUOTE]
Is that why it was so janky?
Just looked up more stuff about the steam engine cars. I had no idea about flash boiling and the like so it sounds more viable than I thought.
I suppose the only things it comes down to is the size of the engine + boiler itself, the efficiency of whatever you're using to heat the water in the first place as well as reducing as much heat loss through the boiler, piping, cylinders, etc. to increase efficiency.
Also, I personally believe this feels like a stopgap solution. This method still produces pollutants, greenhouse gas or other, if you're burning something to make the steam. Even if you just used electricity to boil the water then you're wasting energy to create power when you can just use electricity to drive the car in the first place.
Once electric cars can be reliably charged from renewable sources this type of car becomes irrelevant. And since the issue of charging is less of a technical issue than a logistical one, it doesn't seem necessary to redevelop an older technology only for it to be supplanted almost immediately.
Still pretty cool though - I'd like to see where your project goes.
You can use nuclear fuel to create steam to drive a piston or turbine. You could then either power the car directly from the steam engine or use the steam turbine to charge batteries for an electric motor, but I think currently at least the steam engine creates way more power than even an electric motor can. No pollutants, just water. If you drop the electric motors your car would be arguably more environmentally friendly because batteries are fucking [I]nasty.[/I] You could probably ditch batteries altogether for a nuclear-heated steam car since it doesn't require electricity to start and you can just run the electronics off an alternator.
The odds of rupturing a nuclear fuel cell are much lower than the odds of rupturing a battery.
Yeah, but try convincing the average car owner that having a nuclear reactor in their car isn't going to give them cancer or cause the end of the world...
[QUOTE=Gulen;52132150]Yeah, but try convincing the average car owner that having a nuclear reactor in their car isn't going to give them cancer or cause the end of the world...[/QUOTE]
just put a tiny nuke on the back and propel yourself forward
Why does work hamper me from checking FP regularly.... I guess I need to find a easier job then driving around and stuff.
Also remember gents join our discord.
just got back from the shop and apparently the body panel that got hit just popped back out after the guy hit me. there's damage to the actual bumper underneath the panels. shop quoted 1200 to fix it, thankfully the other guy has insurance. going to see if there's any chance for a diminished value check after the repair is done
[QUOTE=Zombii;52132288]just got back from the shop and apparently the body panel that got hit just popped back out after the guy hit me. there's damage to the actual bumper underneath the panels. shop quoted 1200 to fix it, thankfully the other guy has insurance. going to see if there's any chance for a diminished value check after the repair is done[/QUOTE]
Take him to the cleaners. Distracted drivers are scum and deserve to be absolutely fucked in every way possible.
[QUOTE=Zombii;52132288]just got back from the shop and apparently the body panel that got hit just popped back out after the guy hit me. there's damage to the actual bumper underneath the panels. shop quoted 1200 to fix it, thankfully the other guy has insurance. going to see if there's any chance for a diminished value check after the repair is done[/QUOTE]
If you have the resources, do what you can yourself.
The bumper is simple to replace. I did mine in maybe 4 hours. Mine was rusted solid and had to be cut off. Bought a nice, clean one for $40 from the junkyard.
Painting, have that done professionally and take him to the cleaners on it.
The more you can do yourself, the more cash you will be left with in the end.
[QUOTE=FordLord;52133150]If you have the resources, do what you can yourself.
The bumper is simple to replace. I did mine in maybe 4 hours. Mine was rusted solid and had to be cut off. Bought a nice, clean one for $40 from the junkyard.
Painting, have that done professionally and take him to the cleaners on it.
The more you can do yourself, the more cash you will be left with in the end.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=F.X Clampazzo;52132958]Take him to the cleaners. Distracted drivers are scum and deserve to be absolutely fucked in every way possible.[/QUOTE]
I plan on getting all I can out of it, I don't want to be ripped off and the car definitely loses value now that there's been a collision. Unfortunately I'm just a college student with no tools, space, or knowledge. So I probably am just stuck with the body shop for right now, but I'm going to make sure they shell out for OEM parts and then I'm going to chase a diminished value check out of his insurance some way or another. I'm hoping that it might be enough value to let me trade in for a new 17 model since they're facelifted.
Did some pedal work
[t]https://puu.sh/vrTwZ.png[/t]
[t]https://puu.sh/vrTPP.png[/t]
[t]https://puu.sh/vrTzV.png[/t]
Fixed the brake light being on all the time at the same time :v:
[editline]21st April 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=Ldesu;52094345]Fix the throttle pedal.
The old one was really fucked and "fixed" by a gorilla, so I don't really have a pedal at all, just the roller thing that usually goes behind the actual pedal
Fix brake lights being constantly on
[/QUOTE]
So that's those two off the list
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/blelUcX.jpg[/thumb]
New Vs. Old. About 2in more height, and a better shape at the top
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/KVNHhii.jpg[/thumb]
Shifts amazing now, even though it already did with the Cobolt short-throw shift kit. I just didn't have enough leverage with tiny stubby knob that came stock.
Also, I found out I didn't quite take out all the slack in my accessory belts, so that is what I kept hearing rubber squeeks when moving from a standstill. Alternator belt seems to be the culprit.
[QUOTE=Zombii;52131129]got rear-ended on my way home from the grocery just now
guy was on his phone and didnt see me stopped at a light, slammed on his brakes and his shitty bald all-seasons just slid across the wet pavement and into my car. thankfully my car is fine (and me too) but ill have to take it in to (at the very least) get the hit panel repainted. they may just opt to replace the panels that got hit since theyre kinda bent and just plastic anyway though, i dont know how it goes.
also got a ticket for expired registration because i haven't put my new tags on yet, so that's sweet.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like a pain in the ass man. Why didn't you get around to putting on your new tags? I mean the inspecting garage is suppose to do that, aren't they? Oh wait, some states don't have annual inspections, do they...
Yesterday I had a near-hit accident, where I got majorly cut off but this incredibly stupid and aggressive Lincoln SUV snob, a snob that passed people in the exit lane. Only about a 1/4 mile down though was construction traffic, and while he did slow down, I got emotional and sped up. I wanted to pass him, eye for an eye type of bullshit, and so I did on the shoulder. I also had to anyway because I was going too fast to slow down. I tried merging back in to traffic immediately once I was slowed down, and locked up the brakes for half a second. I merged right behind a brand new GT-R. Would've sucked to hit the Lincoln asshole, would've [B][I]really sucked[/I][/B] to hit the GT-R! Lesson learned, either don't react at all, or at the very least, go super slow when passing like an asshole like that.
Hey guys, I need some advice on buying an used car to replace my old 1995 Mercedes e320. I loved that car to death but at 220k miles its finally starting to show its age and I think its time to get something a little bit newer, so I've been looking into getting a Jaguar.
[url]https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/6088411720.html[/url]
Am I an idiot for wanting this? I'm prepared for the fairly steep maintenance costs, but I've never bought from an used car dealer before. I know they're notorious for trying to rip people off, what should I look out for?
[QUOTE=NO ONE;52133731][thumb]http://i.imgur.com/blelUcX.jpg[/thumb]
New Vs. Old. About 2in more height, and a better shape at the top
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/KVNHhii.jpg[/thumb]
Shifts amazing now, even though it already did with the Cobolt short-throw shift kit. I just didn't have enough leverage with tiny stubby knob that came stock.
Also, I found out I didn't quite take out all the slack in my accessory belts, so that is what I kept hearing rubber squeeks when moving from a standstill. Alternator belt seems to be the culprit.
Sounds like a pain in the ass man. Why didn't you get around to putting on your new tags? I mean the inspecting garage is suppose to do that, aren't they? Oh wait, some states don't have annual inspections, do they...
Yesterday I had a near-hit accident, where I got majorly cut off but this incredibly stupid and aggressive Lincoln SUV snob, a snob that passed people in the exit lane. Only about a 1/4 mile down though was construction traffic, and while he did slow down, I got emotional and sped up. I wanted to pass him, eye for an eye type of bullshit, and so I did on the shoulder. I also had to anyway because I was going too fast to slow down. I tried merging back in to traffic immediately once I was slowed down, and locked up the brakes for half a second. I merged right behind a brand new GT-R. Would've sucked to hit the Lincoln asshole, would've [B][I]really sucked[/I][/B] to hit the GT-R! Lesson learned, either don't react at all, or at the very least, go super slow when passing like an asshole like that.[/QUOTE]
KY doesn't have inspections, but thankfully it's only a fix it ticket so I just have to provide proof that I paid my registration and it disappears. I'm more upset about the damage to my car
[QUOTE=eggnogg13;52133846]Hey guys, I need some advice on buying an used car to replace my old 1995 Mercedes e320. I loved that car to death but at 220k miles its finally starting to show its age and I think its time to get something a little bit newer, so I've been looking into getting a Jaguar.
[url]https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/6088411720.html[/url]
Am I an idiot for wanting this? I'm prepared for the fairly steep maintenance costs, but I've never bought from an used car dealer before. I know they're notorious for trying to rip people off, what should I look out for?[/QUOTE]
I'd stick my dick in that jag.
Well. Got new brakes for my Charger, because the old pads were cracked alongside the grooves of the rotors. And now, I have no brake pressure.
Guess who's rotating tires and bleeding shit tomorrow and searching for bad brake lines.
But, I lost my paper route, so maybe my car will stop breaking every time I look at it cross?
[editline]21st April 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=DPKiller;52132264]Why does work hamper me from checking FP regularly.... I guess I need to find a easier job then driving around and stuff.
Also remember gents join our discord.[/QUOTE]
We have a discord? Christ, I need to stop working so many late hours.
So I've been following this thread for the past couple of iterations, and I'm finally in something I'm not embarassed about posting:
[t]https://scontent.fphx1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18033151_10202975544425282_5283807638375491658_n.jpg?oh=9847a345a308dba12baa6bda1b7aaa7f&oe=597EF90B[/t]
I feel like such a posh yippie when I drive it but oh man am I giving into the hype
2011 328i - nothing super fancy but the handles light up when I unlock it and oh mang it's so much neater than anything I or my parents have ever owned. certified pre-owned so it still has a bit of a warranty and if I find anything wrong I'll try and get it fixed ASAP
[QUOTE=jazxsora;52127525]My friend might be buying a $300 Mercedes 300e. Thought?[/QUOTE]
Good car, easy to work on, and cheap as hell to maintain as far as MBs go. Watch out for head gasket issues and oil burning. The valve stem seals on those cars like to go out every 100k miles if it's a pre 1989 car. Also post 1989 cars experience door card warping.
If it has over 150k miles and no record of the two front ball joints being done, tell your friend to not ask questions and just replace them or the wheel and hub assy can (and usually will) detach from the car (usually happens at low speeds and in inconvenient places).
Also don't unbolt any front suspension bits without the control arm supported by a jack at minimum, ever.
[QUOTE=Van-man;52126266]Most modern diesels also need new injectors with nozzles designed for the different viscosity of biodiesel compared to regular diesel.
The problem with that is price and availability, but that's pretty much a supply/demand problem and nothing more.
Which is still far more favorable problem to solve for any vehicle driving long distances.[/QUOTE]
All diesels need new nozzles designed for biodiesel, not just the new ones. This is why I tell anyone who asks me about old diesel MBs to stay away from cars fitted with biodiesel kits or WVO kits. Not using the right nozzles for biodiesel has melted more than enough Mahle forged pistons in those cars.
[QUOTE=Slithers;52134530]Good car, easy to work on, and cheap as hell to maintain as far as MBs go. Watch out for head gasket issues and oil burning. The valve stem seals on those cars like to go out every 100k miles if it's a pre 1989 car. Also post 1989 cars experience door card warping.
If it has over 150k miles and no record of the two front ball joints being done, tell your friend to not ask questions and just replace them or the wheel and hub assy can (and usually will) detach from the car (usually happens at low speeds and in inconvenient places).
Also don't unbolt any front suspension bits without the control arm supported by a jack at minimum, ever.
All diesels need new nozzles designed for biodiesel, not just the new ones. This is why I tell anyone who asks me about old diesel MBs to stay away from cars fitted with biodiesel kits or WVO kits. Not using the right nozzles for biodiesel has melted more than enough Mahle forged pistons in those cars.[/QUOTE]
Not my 7.3 idi. That rattley old bastery would run on mayonaise if you could pump it.
[QUOTE=eggnogg13;52133846]Hey guys, I need some advice on buying an used car to replace my old 1995 Mercedes e320. I loved that car to death but at 220k miles its finally starting to show its age and I think its time to get something a little bit newer, so I've been looking into getting a Jaguar.
[url]https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/6088411720.html[/url]
Am I an idiot for wanting this? I'm prepared for the fairly steep maintenance costs, but I've never bought from an used car dealer before. I know they're notorious for trying to rip people off, what should I look out for?[/QUOTE]
I would really recommend getting a next generation Xj with the regular hood, not the backwards job that generation had. It'll make your frequent repairs easier. Or better yet, don't buy a Jag. Seriously. I'm a Jaguar tech. I drive a Mercury.
[QUOTE=Slithers;52134530]
All diesels need new nozzles designed for biodiesel, not just the new ones. This is why I tell anyone who asks me about old diesel MBs to stay away from cars fitted with biodiesel kits or WVO kits. Not using the right nozzles for biodiesel has melted more than enough Mahle forged pistons in those cars.[/QUOTE]
Good ol' 12 valve dont give a shit, they actually like biodiesel better because they generally have better lubrication properties to them compared to modern ultra low sulpher diesels.
People mix in used diese oil, tranny fluid, 2 stroke oil, and all sorts of shit with the diesel and it usually has them running better haha
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