I used to have a power acoustic radio with a 9 inch screen that came off and could be used aa a mobile media tablet, if it hadn't come with a remote I'd have never been able to use the damn thingwhile driving.
Changed to the clarion I accidentally broke the digitizer on because the power acoustic would always reset the volume to 12 and hurt my ears every time it came on. Not to mention it was massive and I always felt I was gonna smash the screen when I put the car in park. It was really just a big gimmic radio.
[QUOTE=Van-man;51877885]I can't, but I'm also a touch-typer and that has bled into using the center console of my car.
Also you'd need to make the buttons and dials on a touchscreen REALLY big to compensate for the lack of physical tactile feedback that the shape of buttons & levers provides.[/QUOTE]
your HVAC controls as well as volume are always visible at the bottom and never move
physical buttons for play/pause next/previous are on the wheel as well as another physical volume wheel
Most of you mentioned stuff with knows that were built well. Let's talk 2000+'s as 80-90s chrome stuff will alwase hold.
And no of you just have knobs it ain't luxuy enough to enter this conversation.
[editline]26th February 2017[/editline]
Every manufacture is going with soft touch vag shit that will go away with time. Give most cars 12 years and their coatings are going in high traffic areas.
I'm completely fine with a big touchscreen as long as the commonly used things like volume, next/previous track and the "listen to voice command" buttons are on the steering wheel.
[QUOTE=Xanadu;51877044]I borrowed a 2015 Ford Fusion and hated it, but may or may not buy a corroded, banged-up '02 Sunfire GT today.[/QUOTE]
Bought it.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/aicxZCv.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/KHY7zIk.jpg[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/6K2rTvg.jpg[/t]
5 hundo. 2.4L GT with a cylinder 1 misfire and a missing muffler/tailpipe, one of two.
e: already fixed the misfire
I swear pontiac sent them out of the factory with interior like that
I've never seen one close to clean.
Whats the word on RockAuto parts? Worth buying from them?
[QUOTE=Code3Response;51878271]Whats the word on RockAuto parts? Worth buying from them?[/QUOTE]
I try to go out of my way to use Rockauto. Just try to stay away from the really super cheap brands, sometimes they're about as bad as the brands on ebay. I've bought parts which were twice the quality of the parts store knock off for a 1/4th of the price. Make sure to plan out your shipments though, if you get stuff that ships from too many different warehouses you'll get nailed on shipping.
Google rockauto discount code forum and pick a 5% code, I used to use the one from pirate4x4 whenever I didn't have a code but it seems they don't update anymore. I'd probably avoid posting codes from the forums before they stop giving them out.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;51878296]I try to go out of my way to use Rockauto. Just try to stay away from the really super cheap brands, sometimes they're about as bad as the brands on ebay. I've bought parts which were twice the quality of the parts store knock off for a 1/4th of the price. Make sure to plan out your shipments though, if you get stuff that ships from too many different warehouses you'll get nailed on shipping.
Google rockauto discount code forum and pick a 5% code, I used to use the one from pirate4x4 whenever I didn't have a code but it seems they don't update anymore. I'd probably avoid posting codes from the forums before they stop giving them out.[/QUOTE]
The 1/4 price is what I'm seeing. I'm obviously not going to be looking for top of the line products here, but also don't want some generic brand from the auto store either
[QUOTE=Code3Response;51878489]The 1/4 price is what I'm seeing. I'm obviously not going to be looking for top of the line products here, but also don't want some generic brand from the auto store either[/QUOTE]
Autozone wanted like $300 for a $40 o2 sensor for my Integra. The only parts I even bother with at the parts store are like axles and starters since they're the same price or cheaper. Sounds about right really.
Napa sold me a PCV valve for a 99 Civic EX for $14($3) and a molded house for $14($7), O'Reillys has sold me a $18($5) steering rack bellows boot and it started literally disintegrating within 3k miles. I paid like $17($3.50) a side for wheel cylinder "rebuild kits" since mine are a little stripped and I didn't want to try to replace them. I think the FelPro headgaskets for single cam Hondas are like $25 at Autozone and they're literally like $5 on RockAuto.
Some of the parts brands are hit and miss. Do a little research and if you think the brand isn't very reputable just buy a more expensive part. Rockauto enables you to have an option to buy quality, real brands of parts instead of whatever china dollar junk bin durashit rebox or to pay twice as much for something not even that great ordered in.
[editline]26th February 2017[/editline]
Oh I've also had to warranty my rear Durashit calipers like 5 times between the both of them. My Durashit rotors warped in 3k miles. I've seen some Ford and GM parts made half way decent from parts stores but I swear they make 80% profit off with ebay china junk bin parts for imports.
[QUOTE=Morgen;51876260]The only luxury car interior that does anything for me is the Model S/X. It's so minimalist I love it.
[T]https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/35/3d/1e/353d1edbdb1ee66094bdc93cb8b3be81.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Way too much plastic for Mercedes S550 prices. not too mention the door handles that sometimes fail to pop out. The only thing that really gives that interior an edge is that center display, but Volvo will sell you a car with a smaller (but similar) display that works much better - and will work when wearing gloves - and for almost half the price. It's a shame really, the layout is nice, but some of the materials could be found in a Hyundai Elantra.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51877277]
Fuck you guys and your Muh buttons. No one can make a button that won't show wear after 100k miles.[/QUOTE]
You wouldn't know what buttons that don't show wear after 100k miles would look like since buttons in GM cars are worn out by 50k.
Out of all of the cars I park as a valet, GMs and Chryslers tend to be the lowest mileage and worst condition. They disintegrate worse than what mechanics have told me about how Saabs disintegrate.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;51878271]Whats the word on RockAuto parts? Worth buying from them?[/QUOTE]
I buy from them pretty often. My 190E has a Behr Hella water pump from them. Just beware that they sell literally every variety of manufactured part, so be a brand snob.
Good fucking god this thing is beat to shit.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/1057FC21-8C48-4989-8C64-C59FC5510866_zpsqtumzksh.jpg[/thumb]
Its had a hard 480k km, probably more because the speedometer doesn't work. Runs and drives straight, starts really fucking good, shifts nice. Either dont do anything and sell it for a quick profit, or change the body panels out and make it a half decent daily driver
Mail it to me
[QUOTE=Slithers;51878577]Out of all of the cars I park as a valet, GMs and Chryslers tend to be the lowest mileage and worst condition. They disintegrate worse than what mechanics have told me about how Saabs disintegrate.
[/QUOTE]
I can kind of agree. By 75k some things broke in my Charger, but not a lot. By 100k my sunglasses holder broke, the padding on my parking brake broke, my electric seat adjust trim broke, and the center console tray cracked. Oh, and you get a heated or cooled glove box, which is kinda nice (see Mr. Eyebrows' spot with Mr. Regular).
My Ford work truck at 65k miles only has a small rub of paint worn off beneath the volume knob. That's it. And some bolts on my safety cage that have needed to be replaced thanks to the tons of salt I carry in it on a routine basis.
And my Toyota has remarkably no real signs of wear beyond a couple scratches on the passenger side door and a couple of cuts on the dash inside.
[QUOTE=Slithers;51878577]
[b]You wouldn't know what buttons that don't show wear after 100k miles would look like since buttons in GM cars are worn out by 50k.[/b][/QUOTE]
You sir are right, because they all fucking wear.
Go into a salvage yard, most brands will mostly all have the same amount of neglect. Its the oil in our fingers bro.
[t]http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzEyWDY0MA==/$T2eC16N,!)QE9s3HD)e-BQmsi,k6d!~~60_35.JPG?set_id=880000500F[/t]
Yes I know chevys do this.
[t]https://i2.wp.com/www.pacificmotors.com/wp-content/uploads/imported/7/WEAR-HEAT-HEATER-AC-CONTROL-AUDI-A4-B7-04-05-06-07-08-20L-TURBO-8E0820043BL-281305248467.jpg?fit=333%2C250[/t]
[t]https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OwMLaGKPnq4/maxresdefault.jpg[/t]
but so do euros.
Huh. Both of our 300s were flawless even after 100k. Current one is way too new to have any noticed wear.
maybe im pushing the all too hard...
I THINK I FOUND THE LEMONADE STAND SUPPLIER
[t]http://i.imgur.com/xXzPlTH.jpg[/t]
I SWEAR THESE ARE LEMONS GUYS
[t]http://i.imgur.com/moJIoHn.jpg[/t]
GM and German stuff seems praticularly bad, though. Anything with "soft touch" coating peels like no tomorrow. And they both love that junk.
My Volvo is at ~145k miles and everything is still readable.
Y'know that collosal hunk of junk i just paid $2500 for? Some dink is throwing down a deposit to buy it for $3500!
I swear these diesels are risk free easy money, everybody wants 'em!
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51880187]Y'know that collosal hunk of junk i just paid $2500 for? Some dink is throwing down a deposit to buy it for $3500!
I swear these diesels are risk free easy money, everybody wants 'em![/QUOTE]
With the $1,000 your gonna make, you wanna go ahead and buy me a work truck and ship it to me for like $0? Youll be making money because its like business. Ive been through a few business courses and have at least a hundred business degrees and lemme tell you. This is a good deal. Its a great deal. You can also ship me a truck and $500 if you want to make even more money. Wow! I know.
Tonight I nutted up and finally chopped into my doors.
Driver's side isn't too bad.. little part snipped out, nothing major.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/AE43D210-7E5C-4D8D-ABC6-CC8C5D9E5FEC_zps9ls04cnx.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/AE43D210-7E5C-4D8D-ABC6-CC8C5D9E5FEC_zps9ls04cnx.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Drilled my own hole to get a third screw out that holds the window glass to the mechanism.. get that outta there before I ruin it with welding slag and ish.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0B111102-CC28-4A52-83C3-D08AF5CB361C_zpshgffeq3w.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/0B111102-CC28-4A52-83C3-D08AF5CB361C_zpshgffeq3w.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Grabbed the passenger door.. annnd.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C7267A03-FD62-4E3F-808C-6BBE2CAABB23_zps2yma2vbn.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/C7267A03-FD62-4E3F-808C-6BBE2CAABB23_zps2yma2vbn.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Chopped the whole bottom bits off
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CFF68568-4B60-4EC6-ADD9-CF7A70669EAE_zpsf2vnzvhz.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/CFF68568-4B60-4EC6-ADD9-CF7A70669EAE_zpsf2vnzvhz.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Quick little mock with some alu extrusion... gonna snag some steel extrusion tomorrow and tack it in. Shouldn't be too tough of a repair, the shape isn't particularly strange.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9354C4EA-F901-4321-8D98-B03C891274FA_zpsaunqsu0a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/9354C4EA-F901-4321-8D98-B03C891274FA_zpsaunqsu0a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Yesterday's fun included an X3..
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/80AB3275-1B5D-4060-A77D-B42CE439AB99_zpsanraeeil.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/80AB3275-1B5D-4060-A77D-B42CE439AB99_zpsanraeeil.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Fiddling with the headlights only.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/32F63BE2-F037-4E75-A67B-4868BFF69628_zpsvh5z9erp.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/32F63BE2-F037-4E75-A67B-4868BFF69628_zpsvh5z9erp.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And fiddling with some model cars after work..
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0D641F2A-F793-473F-B1B3-AEFEB0E08B5A_zps0fa1expv.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/0D641F2A-F793-473F-B1B3-AEFEB0E08B5A_zps0fa1expv.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And does anyone remember that old Puch moped I painted last year?? The dude FINALLY got it back together. Sent me a pic.. can't wait to see it in person.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2130EFAC-7A4C-45F8-A34E-39946E41C17A_zpsyy21tj6f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/2130EFAC-7A4C-45F8-A34E-39946E41C17A_zpsyy21tj6f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And for laughs... this is on the display for some Power Akoustik POS that a customer brought me.
Let me tell you.. it wasn't a fun full time.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/23E07296-0CEC-4D15-A11B-4BBB15FCC0DD_zpswjzpyqbw.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/23E07296-0CEC-4D15-A11B-4BBB15FCC0DD_zpswjzpyqbw.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
after seeing these light up japanese plates in a yt video, i kind of want one
[t]http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/51/776951/001.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h137/BMCCANN101/20150622_200028_zpsazabbyew.jpg[/t]
they look pretty cool. pretty close to stupid rice, but imo they look cool enough to put them on the right side of the 'rice/not rice' barrier.
now to figure out how to make one out of an american plate....
Alright... I want one.. :v:
Spring has sprung.
[t]https://puu.sh/ulOmj/3271e45188.jpg[/t]
Got the XJ all cleaned up. Six hours well spent.
Also plugged away at the wyvern some.
[T]https://puu.sh/u2mCI/a040fe7c4e.png[/T] [T]https://puu.sh/u2mFh/079b649ac9.png[/T] [T]https://puu.sh/u2lmw/f3eb3fbb92.png[/T] [T]https://puu.sh/u1YwG/90199f8ac6.png[/T]
This is the valve head casting plus the valves. The big space is the space for the spring, although there should be a guide rod welded to the face plate. The space also acts as sort of an energy reservoir filled with live steam that will cover the initial pressure drop when the valve opens so that the power is delivered as smooth as possible. The port at the bottom has a little more area to it than a 2 1/4" internal diamter pipe, which is what i'm using for the high pressure steam, so it's not a bad bottleneck. Next up is the cam box. I have a design in mind, but how well it plays out i don't know. I wanna keep it as small as possible, so currently i wanna drive the cam through the slip spline on one side, and have the adjusting screw on the other side. But we'll see if it works like i imagine.
Also i dare anyone to guess the weight of the casting on it's own and with the valves. It's roughly 8.5 inches long, 8 inches wide and 5.5 inches tall from the base to the top of the pipe coupling face at the top and is designed to be sand cast in aluminum.
[QUOTE=clutch2;51880636]Alright... I want one.. :v:[/QUOTE]
the lightbox itself shouldn't be too difficult to build.
i'm thinking a dremel+a steady hand to cut out the characters on your plate, then a sheet of blue/jade acrylic mounted behind it with some double-sided tape, maybe a little bit of weatherproofing seal, and boom...
i just need to find my useless 2nd/front plate that my state that doesn't use front plates gave me...
not sure it's actually legal to modify your plate. reflective tape might be a little less questionable.
[QUOTE=butre;51880699]not sure it's actually legal to modify your plate. reflective tape might be a little less questionable.[/QUOTE]
i figure if people can get away with sanding/filing their plate or putting on those ridiculous tinted plate covers to fuzz speed cameras, then making my plate MORE visible won't ruffle any feathers
but the legality of it is a good question, and with how things are in the states, i wouldnt be surprised if it landed a ticket.
Check your local laws for absolute clarification. That modification would be illegal where I am.
[editline]27th February 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=Slithers;51878577]I buy from them pretty often. My 190E has a Behr Hella water pump from them. Just beware that they sell literally every variety of manufactured part, so be a brand snob.[/QUOTE]
I'm doing more brand research than I've ever imagined. All of them seem to be "good enough" with Moog being 1/2 the price it is in store 🤔
after doing some research, it appears that license plate display laws are on a state-by-state basis, and the only reference to it i can find for KY (my state) is this
[url]http://www.lrc.ky.gov/statutes/statute.aspx?id=5970[/url]
[quote="Kentucky Revised Statues"]Plates shall be kept legible at all times and the rear plate
shall be illuminated when being operated during the hours designated in KRS
189.030. No rim, frame, or other covering around the plate shall in any way obscure
or cover any lettering or decal on the plate; except that, any owner who objects to
the display of a trademark of a private corporation which appears on the registration
plate shall be entitled to receive a set of decals from the county clerk in his county
of residence to cover the trademark of the private corporation.[/quote]
it seems like it could be considered legal, but if a cop really wanted to give you a ticket for it, they probably could unless you wanted to go to court to fight it
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