I also own pliers
[editline]12th May 2017[/editline]
several
I have two or three pairs rolling around in my trunk. They may have come with the car, or they were in that LTC I gutted
i've been waiting for the pliers discussion to start up, i lost mine recently and i couldn't change my guitar strings without it but i found an old pair under the house.
anyway its really hard to find a conclusive answer on whether e10 is bad for your car, whether it'll get you far enough for the price difference to matter. i've always been told that its bad but i've never been able to get the facts straight.
e10 is fine as long as you don't let it sit too long. the alcohol absorbs water from the air and falls out of suspension so you just end up a water/ethanol mix about as combustible as beer at the bottom of your tank. this process takes between 3 months and a year depending on your relative humidity.
higher concentrations of ethanol start getting iffy if you have an older car. e15 will slowly dissolve rubber gaskets and tubing in your fuel system, though unless it's a garage kept car that gets 1000 miles a year the rest of the car will likely give out first. you generally should replumb the whole fuel system with modern materials if you plan on running e85 in anything more than 10 or so years old.
as far as prices, e10 has about 6% less energy than ethanol free, so if the price difference is less than 6% I would go for ethanol free. I haven't seen a less than 6% price difference in a while but sometimes it happens.
Do you guys have any car detailing products that you would recommend?
I have never really looked into detailing my car until now, so I'm not sure what's good or not.
[QUOTE=pentium;52214460]Get another call yesterday. They pull the flywheel off and immediately determine the seal is fine but instead the oil is from the distributor oil seal above.
Okay, that I at least knew needed to be done so he won't charge me for the time needed to reach the rear main and told him what the hell, if you are in there change the distributor seal.[/QUOTE]
Calls me again yesterday saying he can only get one of the distributor bolts out. The only reason the two shops that have looked at it now have not changed the seal already is that both bolts are seized on good (well we at least know now that one is free) and if we snap the bolt it's in such a place on the head (see [url=http://www.suzuki-forums.com/attachments/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/15375d1360790179-swap-89-sidekick-4x4-tracker-2-motorfrontsm.jpg]this photo[/url]) all you can do is pull the head to get the rest of the bolt out which is the most expensive pain in the ass that I can think of right now, so I told him don't bother, I'll have another place try.
Calls again today saying the transmission is in and they test drove it but they can't shift into third or fourth. Fucking worst case scenario here.
Calls again a few hours later saying the car is ready. Ask if they had just put the old transmission back in or something and no, a collet had fallen into the shifter assembly when they had installed it and once it was removed it was fine. Thanks for the fucking panic attack. :v:
Total cost came to $1444 CDN. I be doing a 1000km road test tomorrow. Next month will be a new timing belt and a tune-up and we're done with the mechanics for this year.
[QUOTE=butre;52220554]e10 is fine as long as you don't let it sit too long. the alcohol absorbs water from the air and falls out of suspension so you just end up a water/ethanol mix about as combustible as beer at the bottom of your tank. this process takes between 3 months and a year depending on your relative humidity.
higher concentrations of ethanol start getting iffy if you have an older car. e15 will slowly dissolve rubber gaskets and tubing in your fuel system, though unless it's a garage kept car that gets 1000 miles a year the rest of the car will likely give out first. you generally should replumb the whole fuel system with modern materials if you plan on running e85 in anything more than 10 or so years old.
as far as prices, e10 has about 6% less energy than ethanol free, so if the price difference is less than 6% I would go for ethanol free. I haven't seen a less than 6% price difference in a while but sometimes it happens.[/QUOTE]
eh its generally only 4 cents cheaper per litre i think i'll stick with regular unleaded
Yet another issue with my Viper 300+
Drove through a puddle, now the siren is very muffled and quiet.
All connections are good.
Anything else to check, or time to replace the siren?
[QUOTE=Doritos_Man;52220961]Do you guys have any car detailing products that you would recommend?
I have never really looked into detailing my car until now, so I'm not sure what's good or not.[/QUOTE]
foaming gunk for the engine, clay bar and wax the paint, and rug doctor the interior. any brand of all of these is fine, it's all the same shit
[QUOTE=FordLord;52222138]Yet another issue with my Viper 300+
Drove through a puddle, now the siren is very muffled and quiet.
All connections are good.
Anything else to check, or time to replace the siren?[/QUOTE]
Water is in the speaker of the siren. If its a bullhorn style, the will be 3 or 4 phillips head (or cross head if thats your choice name) screws. Remove those and the core should come out, be careful as the power wires can be pinched sometimes making them a pain to slide out. There are usually 3 more screws the hold the core together.
One screw will hold the siren circuit board onto the magnet, remove that to avoid ripping the wire off that go the the speaker and move out of the way. Remove the screws that hold the small center cone on and clean it out. Remove the usual 3 screws that hold the magnet to the speaker coil and set the magnet aside, be careful not to damage the "cone" that has the winding on it as its stiff and can be brittle. Clean out all your plastic bits and use CRC eletronics cleaner on the circuit board to dry up any water that may have gotten on it.
I have taken many of them apart over the years for PA speaker mods. Its also fairly easy to get a far larger horn speaker and slap in a car alarm circuit board, because its just the 2 wires for the speaker and the 2 power wires for the alarm. They can be quite a bit louder for sure.
[QUOTE=clutch2;52219963]Are they as useless as mines?! Lol cuz mine sure suck..[/QUOTE]
yes theyre awful. Theyre the second worst pliers I have. The first worst is a completely clapped out channel lock that is so wallowed out that it wont grip anything without slipping out. I dont know why I never throw it away, but its always around on the ground somewhere. Ive considered getting a real good pair of pliers like a knipex or something, but as much as pliers get abused around my house, maybe I shouldnt.
[QUOTE=Pat.Lithium;52220486]i've been waiting for the pliers discussion to start up, i lost mine recently and i couldn't change my guitar strings without it but i found an old pair under the house.
anyway its really hard to find a conclusive answer on whether e10 is bad for your car, whether it'll get you far enough for the price difference to matter. i've always been told that its bad but i've never been able to get the facts straight.[/QUOTE]
Depends on the car and year. It my experience (80s motorcycles), its satans piss. even if you drain the bowls and dont let it sit, every carb Ive cleaned that ran e10 for more than one accidental fill up had thick white residue and aluminum corrosion everywhere. Ive had jet seats so pitted up that I had to take a dremel grinding wheel to them to get an o-ring in without tearing it to shreds. GL1000's are so picky in the jetting that, depending on altitude and temperature, they would need rejetted richer to run properly on e10.
Just a couple photos today. There were SO. MANY. CARS. Lambos and Ferraris were parking in the street because there was no more room on the property.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/JLvhHOt.png[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/PayVpC8.png[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/rHHyL3T.png[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/JFkcQcB.png[/t]
Sooo i stumbled upon some BMW E36 M3 parts...
[img]http://i.imgur.com/JbsVuHT.png[/img]
Now to silently move them all into the attic without causing a fiss :v:
[editline]13th May 2017[/editline]
Also some E30 M3 parts, M54 parts, and a shitload of e36/e46 stuff too.
Going to make an inventory, sell everything. And drop a S54 engine into the green racecar.
If I had to pick a place I'd never put hundreds of pounds of car parts, it'd be over my head while I slept.
I thought me getting hit by a parked car was bad, but Strontboer is setting himself to get hit by a disassembled car.
No you guys don't understand, I ment like the attic in the garage. Above the racecar.
[editline]13th May 2017[/editline]
wait fuck
[QUOTE=butre;52220554]e10 is fine as long as you don't let it sit too long. the alcohol absorbs water from the air and falls out of suspension so you just end up a water/ethanol mix about as combustible as beer at the bottom of your tank. this process takes between 3 months and a year depending on your relative humidity.
higher concentrations of ethanol start getting iffy if you have an older car. e15 will slowly dissolve rubber gaskets and tubing in your fuel system, though unless it's a garage kept car that gets 1000 miles a year the rest of the car will likely give out first. you generally should replumb the whole fuel system with modern materials if you plan on running e85 in anything more than 10 or so years old.
as far as prices, e10 has about 6% less energy than ethanol free, so if the price difference is less than 6% I would go for ethanol free. I haven't seen a less than 6% price difference in a while but sometimes it happens.[/QUOTE]
Even in my Escort, E10 ran like utter ass even though Ford does say its approved for use, so maybe it was a dirty sensor or something. It felt like the engine was struggling to find a good idle speed. Also got dogshit economy. On regular, its ran perfectly.
On the Fusion, it runs as you would expect at least, but for some reason, the 2.5L just sucks it down. I average almost 4-5 mpg less from the usual 30 mpg. Maybe I need to run it longer than a couple tanks to let the ECU adjust?
My last tank of gas was an incredible 17.5 mpg. New tires are great.
My boss's jaw dropped the other day when he was bragging about his go-fast exhaust he installed on his truck the other day and asked me what kind of fuel mileage I get when I told him about the choke acting up on my truck. He still doesn't believe my last tank was $15.25 to fill from E and I get about 30-ish mpg.
30mpg is pretty God damn good for even a old 2wd Toyota :v:
I coast in neutral a lot on the hills around here and don't really drive hard on many roads. I will drive it 6 days a week and top it off maybe every week and a half.
My 97 prelude is running far better after changing the timing belt and a bunch of the engine seals. Next the rubber hoses will be replaced because oil seemed to soften some of them to where they might burst, and the distributor cap and AC pump are being replaced as well. I have a K&N cone filter on it but it uses the stock plastic which I'll replace with an AEM soon
I might be able to get an exhaust for it, idk if I'll do much more to it after that
Since april 1st I've put 10000km on my 94 dodge, not to mention the 1000km round trip to get it, and the 1000km I'm driving right now to get its replacement
[editline]13th May 2017[/editline]
I go through a lot of fuel :P
From my house to Gainesville (florida) its about 130 miles, from a full tank on arrival there the gauge is around 1/4 tank and the tank is listed as 17gal.
Being I am shit at math like this, what would be my mpgs? Or gal per mile if that can be figured out.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;52225216]From my house to Gainesville (florida) its about 130 miles, from a full tank on arrival there the gauge is around 1/4 tank and the tank is listed as 17gal.
Being I am shit at math like this, what would be my mpgs? Or gal per mile if that can be figured out.[/QUOTE]
10.2 mpg roughly
130/12.75 (3/4 of a tank)
unless you meant you've only used 1/4 of a tank, not that you have 1/4 remaining, then it would be 30.58 mpg
I do know that, say, when gas is 2.23 (which it was recently here, not sure about elsewhere) to fill my tank costs almost 40 bucks counting tax.
Mastoner, your trucks gas sipping-fu is fucking crazy.
[QUOTE=Ridge;52223998]Just a couple photos today. There were SO. MANY. CARS. Lambos and Ferraris were parking in the street because there was no more room on the property.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/JLvhHOt.png[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/PayVpC8.png[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/rHHyL3T.png[/t][t]http://i.imgur.com/JFkcQcB.png[/t][/QUOTE]
Where is this magical place (I can only see two license plates, and they're from different states)
[QUOTE=laserpanda;52225226]10.2 mpg roughly
130/12.75 (3/4 of a tank)
unless you meant you've only used 1/4 of a tank, not that you have 1/4 remaining, then it would be 30.58 mpg[/QUOTE]
I had a suspition my mpgs were lower then what should be. Highway is stated to be 27 and city 19. So Im likely due for a tune up of sorts.
For the sake of argument, at 10.2 mgs, how many miles could I get out of my car going from full to walk? (Empty stall out)?
[editline]13th May 2017[/editline]
I wish 30~mpgs, I dont really drive often so a tank would last a hella long time for me at that rate.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;52225242]I had a suspition my mpgs were lower then what should be. Highway is stated to be 27 and city 19. So Im likely due for a tune up of sorts.
For the sake of argument, at 10.2 mgs, how many miles could I get out of my car going from full to walk? (Empty stall out)?
[editline]13th May 2017[/editline]
I wish 30~mpgs, I dont really drive often so a tank would last a hella long time for me at that rate.[/QUOTE]
Keep in mind fuel gauges can be somewhat hit or miss, so it may have significantly more than 1/4 left in the tank when you're at 1/4. Best way to check your mileage is to do it when you refuel and divide the miles traveled since you filled it up last by the amount it took to get your tank back to full.
Yeah, I was a little off. I generally average about 25 to 30 miles a day, six days a week. I generally fuel up and top off with about 8ish gallons of gas (about $2/gal here, usually about $16 bucks to fuel, about every 9 days) puts me technically around 33mpg.
But that's just an estimation. Real results vary a bit, as some days I drive more, and some weeks I fuel up more. But just driving to work, to my coffee shop after work, and then home like normal puts me right around 30ish average.
[editline]13th May 2017[/editline]
Compare that to my Charger which is a 40 buck fill up about every two weeks for the same driving, just for perspective. Also, I really, really drive my truck light. I mean, I'm usually coasting in fifth gear doing about 25 miles an hour fighting it to not stall if I can.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
