Has anyone ever had their engine's ECU remapped? Thoughts?
I've considered getting my HDi Powered car remapped, from various forums and such it can increase the power output from the stock 90BHP to 120+BHP. I might not do it due to insurance concerns but It has me interested.
The only downside people have noted if you need to be more thorough with engine servicing and maintenance. But I am rather thorough anyway.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;35904183]Has anyone ever had their engine's ECU remapped? Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
There are quite a number of options for my 240SX in terms of ECU tuning. It requires extra hardware or completely new boards for it to be possible. I looked into it and it really is a lot of work, good luck if you don't have access to a dyno. It's not as simple as getting a cable and plugging your ECU into a laptop, flashing and instantly getting more HP
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35900775]RPM x100 always looked funny to me. No car in NA have it in x100, always in x1000[/QUOTE]
I've only ever seen diesels with x100. Everything i've driven has had x1000. It just makes more sense to me.
New mirror came today. This is awesome
[t]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11823009/other/IMAG0284.jpg[/t]
For it being a used mirror, it looks DAMN good. Not a single thing wrong with it. (And, it even came with bolts. What a surprise.)
[editline]10th May 2012[/editline]
Next on my list is the door spring. (which is going to be a bitch, since i have to replace the entire bolt)
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;35904849]There are quite a number of options for my 240SX in terms of ECU tuning. It requires extra hardware or completely new boards for it to be possible. I looked into it and it really is a lot of work, good luck if you don't have access to a dyno. It's not as simple as getting a cable and plugging your ECU into a laptop, flashing and instantly getting more HP[/QUOTE]
There's a company just down the road from me that does a proper remap using a dyno for not too much money (~£300), The HDi engines are pretty easy as you don't need any extra hardware, just upload a new map via the OBD2 port, pretty cool.
Obviously there are remap files available on the net (Which I could upload myself) that aren't specific to my engine but I think I'd rather go a step further and have a map tailored for mine.
Maybe being a diesel makes this process easier? - These engine already have a huge volume of air going into them, some people just mess with the air temperature sensor to try dump more fuel in (I don't like this idea, smokey exhaust much?)
Maybe one day :P - Sometimes I just wish it had a bit extra kick hen trying to overtake.
I want to remap my car but it will only add 10bhp at the very best.
Damn petrol, non turbo cars
Hello, I have an Audi 80 bought in 1991 and I've been having an issue with the car that seems to repeat itself every summer or whenever it's very hot.
So today was a particular hot day here and every time I leave the car in the sun or heat it takes an awful lot of time to start and when it finally starts it has almost no power, no elasticity, no matter how hard I hit the gas, and then it stops. It goes on an on like this, it's driveable after a few tries yet feeble, has no force. And it's a nightmare to go up a road as it just fails. (Imagine having a row of cars behind you honking as you desperately try to make your car go up the ramp stepping on it like hell as the guys behind you think you're a noob at working with the clutch).
I'm guessing it's some problem with ignition or the ignition switch causing some unprocessed fuel to go through but I've not been able to check because I'm not being able to open the hood since my mother had an accident. It could be problems with the clutch or most probably the air mass measurer.
I really need suggestions cause every time I take it to the mechanic the car is ok for a few weeks and then it returns to the same state.
Thank you!
Behemoth, could be a number of things. It's best you take it to a mechanic that can diagnose your vehicle further.
But there are some things you should consider. Spark plugs, ignition wiring, water pump, radiator, coolant, worn belts.
If your mechanic can't fix the problem, find another
[QUOTE=Behemoth_PT;35906994]Hello, I have an Audi 80 bought in 1991 and I've been having an issue with the car that seems to repeat itself every summer or whenever it's very hot.
So today was a particular hot day here and every time I leave the car in the sun or heat it takes an awful lot of time to start and when it finally starts it has almost no power, no elasticity, no matter how hard I hit the gas, and then it stops. It goes on an on like this, it's driveable after a few tries yet feeble, has no force. And it's a nightmare to go up a road as it just fails. (Imagine having a row of cars behind you honking as you desperately try to make your car go up the ramp stepping on it like hell as the guys behind you think you're a noob at working with the clutch).
I'm guessing it's some problem with ignition or the ignition switch causing some unprocessed fuel to go through but I've not been able to check because I'm not being able to open the hood since my mother had an accident. It could be problems with the clutch or most probably the air mass measurer.
I really need suggestions cause every time I take it to the mechanic the car is ok for a few weeks and then it returns to the same state.
Thank you![/QUOTE]
Sounds like as your engine heats up, it's either losing compression, or overheating, if not both.
But like the guy above says, take it to the Audi shop and get her checked out, can't hurt.
Just visited my mechanic working on the 240SX.
I think he's trying to fuck me with prices. Says tension rod and toe arms are fucked, when it's just the rubber boot that's torn. He wants to replace the whole thing when the boots are just $5 a pop. Car just needs a few things now. Some iridium spark plugs and new ignition wiring. Won't cost much, probably $40 for a set.
All belts replaced with GReddy, new hoses. Got the intake air cleaner hose attached now, so that's good. Car is just, old and tired, previous owners have worn the stock parts to the bone. Needs new coilovers because the stocks and their rubber stoppers are just dead. Radiator fans are old and rusty, so maybe those later. Needs a new battery. Some fuses too most likely. Need differential oil change too.
Other than that, a step closer to a daily driver. I will check back again with my dad this coming Monday. Dashed my hopes of driving it before finals week, oh well. :)
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;35908058]Just visited my mechanic working on the 240SX.
I think he's trying to fuck me with prices. Says tension rod and toe arms are fucked, when it's just the rubber boot that's torn. He wants to replace the whole thing when the boots are just $5 a pop. Car just needs a few things now. Some iridium spark plugs and new ignition wiring. Won't cost much, probably $40 for a set.
All belts replaced with GReddy, new hoses. Got the intake air cleaner hose attached now, so that's good. Car is just, old and tired, previous owners have worn the stock parts to the bone. Needs new coilovers because the stocks and their rubber stoppers are just dead. Radiator fans are old and rusty, so maybe those later. Needs a new battery. Some fuses too most likely. Need differential oil change too.
Other than that, a step closer to a daily driver. I will check back again with my dad this coming Monday. Dashed my hopes of driving it before finals week, oh well. :)[/QUOTE]
About the tension rods and toe arms; some times it's cheaper to just replace things then replace the boots.
Like with my CV shafts, I've got a front and rear one with torn boots. The axles are fine, they don't click or anything. Boots are like $15? and axle's are $70/80 a pop. It end's up costing as much to replace the boots as it does to replace the whole shaft
[QUOTE=FordLord;35908096]About the tension rods and toe arms; some times it's cheaper to just replace things then replace the boots.
Like with my CV shafts, I've got a front and rear one with torn boots. The axles are fine, they don't click or anything. Boots are like $15? and axle's are $70/80 a pop. It end's up costing as much to replace the boots as it does to replace the whole shaft[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I just looked into it. I agree. Actually the newer, aftermarket tension arms cost the same as replacement rubber boots and are much lighter and sturdier than OEM's. Plus, they have no need for rubber boots, its just a solid ball.
I'm just so eager to get this running, at least I'll have something to celebrate with right after my course finals.
[QUOTE=FordLord;35908096]About the tension rods and toe arms; some times it's cheaper to just replace things then replace the boots.
Like with my CV shafts, I've got a front and rear one with torn boots. The axles are fine, they don't click or anything. Boots are like $15? and axle's are $70/80 a pop. It end's up costing as much to replace the boots as it does to replace the whole shaft[/QUOTE]
Junkyard parts for the win. I've scored sooo much for my blazer out of junkyards, chassis wise. Tortion bars, half-shafts, even an entire front and rear axle assembly (as a spare, of course) for less than a 100 bucks... [I]total.[/I]
[QUOTE=MightyMax;35908146]Junkyard parts for the win. I've scored sooo much for my blazer out of junkyards, chassis wise. Tortion bars, half-shafts, even an entire front and rear axle assembly (as a spare, of course) for less than a 100 bucks... [I]total.[/I][/QUOTE]
I'll have to visit one soon. My front right fender is just bent in with a missing turn light. I want to pick up a new hatch door too. Knowing how old the car is, when I remove the foam spoiler, I'll be greeted by lovely rusty cancerous holes in the hatch.
But good idea. Never realized how cheap it would be to pick aftermarket parts from dead cars. Pillar bars, sway bars maybe even a racing seat would be great
Also, I got this horn button for a racing wheel I plan to install later on. It's the old logo:
[IMG]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/5/9/8/6/8/7/webimg/299080216_tp.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=MightyMax;35908146]Junkyard parts for the win. I've scored sooo much for my blazer out of junkyards, chassis wise. Tortion bars, half-shafts, even an entire front and rear axle assembly (as a spare, of course) for less than a 100 bucks... [I]total.[/I][/QUOTE]
I wouldn't recommend getting certain parts from a junkyard. I wouldn't buy CV shafts used, since you obviously can't tell if they are good or not until you put them in
[QUOTE=FordLord;35908235]I wouldn't recommend getting certain parts from a junkyard. I wouldn't buy CV shafts used, since you obviously can't tell if they are good or not until you put them in[/QUOTE]
The junkyards near my house are pretty reputable, they don't take worn-out cars, only wrecks, impounds, and repo's are put in there.
[b]REAL FUCKING NICE!![/b]
So I did that full tire rotation yesterday. Today I drive the car to the electronics shop and back which is a 12km trip and then this evening I go to drive to a friends and my fucking back tire is flat. There's a 2" drywall screw stuck in it.
Then I go and check the other tires. [b]THEY ALL FUCKING HAVE SCREWS, NAILS AND SHIT STUCK IN THEM[/b]. Son of a bitch am I pissed. If I'm lucky I'll be able to snag a new set of tires used for $300.
[QUOTE=MightyMax;35909153]The junkyards near my house are pretty reputable, they don't take worn-out cars, only wrecks, impounds, and repo's are put in there.[/QUOTE]
The ones here aren't the greatest. One of them resells their 'better' cars.
I stopped to look at a couple Impreza's they had out front for sale. They were a '93 and '94, a wagon and a coupe (don't remember which year goes with which car) both were fwd automatics with the 1.8l. I Kept checking them out after I found that out, just out of curiosity. One was 180k miles, the other was 200k+ miles. I think they wanted 2200 for the coupe with the higher mileage and 1800 for the wagon with the lower one. Those prices are way high for those cars. If they were 2.2l AWD's, that would be about spot on for prices at that mileage.
[QUOTE=MIPS;35909158][b]REAL FUCKING NICE!![/b]
So I did that full tire rotation yesterday. Today I drive the car to the electronics shop and back which is a 12km trip and then this evening I go to drive to a friends and my fucking back tire is flat. There's a 2" drywall screw stuck in it.
Then I go and check the other tires. [b]THEY ALL FUCKING HAVE SCREWS, NAILS AND SHIT STUCK IN THEM[/b]. Son of a bitch am I pissed. If I'm lucky I'll be able to snag a new set of tires used for $300.[/QUOTE]
who'd you piss off?
[QUOTE=MightyMax;35909293]who'd you piss off?[/QUOTE]
I probably got them when I took a shortcut through an alleyway to reach the parking lot behind the electronics shop.
It's total bullshit. With no spare now if one of those nails loses the nice seal it has right now, I'm fucked.
wha
Maybe your local tire shop will do flat repairs for free, I dunno if they have Discount Tire in canada, but if they do they'll do them for free. MIPS. Justin, here it is, [u]Kung Fu Vettel, Drive Of The Dragon[/u]
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0SQjAPL-8Y[/media]
:v:
[QUOTE=MIPS;35909158][b]REAL FUCKING NICE!![/b]
So I did that full tire rotation yesterday. Today I drive the car to the electronics shop and back which is a 12km trip and then this evening I go to drive to a friends and my fucking back tire is flat. There's a 2" drywall screw stuck in it.
Then I go and check the other tires. [b]THEY ALL FUCKING HAVE SCREWS, NAILS AND SHIT STUCK IN THEM[/b]. Son of a bitch am I pissed. If I'm lucky I'll be able to snag a new set of tires used for $300.[/QUOTE]
I got my used tires from a local shop on the car and balanced for $120. You'll be fine.
[url]http://leftlanedrivers.org[/url]
[IMG]http://leftlanedrivers.org/Images/slower_traffic.gif[/IMG]
I want one...
I also crashed my plane today, Had to use AWD feature on my audi.
3inches of thick ass mud? NO ISSUE! Only issue I had was when I had to park and get the plane, the car sunk a bit. FLOOR IT.
Cleaned it right after cause I hate mud.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;35909666][url]http://leftlanedrivers.org[/url]
[IMG]http://leftlanedrivers.org/Images/slower_traffic.gif[/IMG]
I want one...
I also crashed my plane today, Had to use AWD feature on my audi.
3inches of thick ass mud? NO ISSUE! Only issue I had was when I had to park and get the plane, the car sunk a bit. FLOOR IT.
Cleaned it right after cause I hate mud.[/QUOTE]
i can't comprehend why people find the concept of "keep right except to pass" so hard
excuse me while some middle aged woman in a white FJ Cruiser goes 5 under the speed limit in the left lane
[QUOTE=Protocol7;35913985]i can't comprehend why people find the concept of "keep right except to pass" so hard
excuse me while some middle aged woman in a white FJ Cruiser goes 5 under the speed limit in the left lane[/QUOTE]
I always douche pass them now, downshift and blast up to their rear door, then push the clutch in, throw some sikk broken muffler revs while giving them the go fucking die face.
t
[QUOTE=Concur;35915607]I always douche pass them now, downshift and blast up to their rear door, then push the clutch in, throw some sikk broken muffler revs while giving them the go fucking die face.
t[/QUOTE]
i don't know what any of that means so I'll just nod and say yes
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