[QUOTE=Del91;36731909]Trojan.dropper.bcsminer actually.
[editline]11th July 2012[/editline]
Ran some rootkit killer thing and I BSOD'd. :([/QUOTE]
Safemode. Actually, I only use Spybot and it works rather well.
Also, good news, looks like it isn't a headgasket. Most likely just the timing chain cover being eaten up on my engine, causing water to touch oil. If it were HG, it would have been much worse by now. I still can run the car it just overheats sometimes
i want to order my bumper from the honda dealer so that way it comes pre painted that way i just get it and bolt it on but the fucking dealer prices im worried about.
A door handle cost me nearly 50 bucks from them just so it came exactly same color as car, a bumper cover is prob 200-300 from them but at the same time buying it raw plastic then bringing it to paint shop probably is equal to that
I don't like buying stuff from the stealership. I needed to get some clips for my fender liner, it added up to 40 bucks. I was just like hell naw and ended up getting the same amount of clips on amazon for 20 bucks
[QUOTE=Glitch360;36732201]I don't like buying stuff from the stealership. I needed to get some clips for my fender liner, it added up to 40 bucks. I was just like hell naw and ended up getting the same amount of clips on amazon for 20 bucks[/QUOTE]
Anything internally you can get online much cheaper. But for external shit i can't just search for a black or w/e the black on my honda is called and find it. Everyone sells raw or primied bumper covers ready for paint. I'm not going to buy one just to run over to a body shop to get it painted then bolt it on. If anything it'd save me a few bucks and even then it might not be a 100% Match as it's 3rd party painting it.
I order from the "stealership" I get exact color match, And even then the car is eventually going to be repainted entirely to fix the fact the clear coat is ripping off the car destroying the paint ontop of the car.
I don't even know my cars color code, there's no faceplate under the hood and the stickers on the side of the doors have been ripped off.
Explains why my trunk is a slight different silver than the rest of the car :v:
Dealerships can tell or find out original color by vin, Thats how honda matched mine
There are only two or three colors that can be matched. The rest are all metallic paints that have little bits of reflective metal in them that give it its "shine". If you get a single body panel replaced it will look different from the rest of the car because of the way it was painted. From the factory the specs are arranged in a certain way, so the car is uniform. That panel will technically be the same color code, but it won't look like the rest of the car because of the way the specs are lined up.
Only way to do it right is to paint the whole car.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;36732611]There are only two or three colors that can be matched. The rest are all metallic paints that have little bits of reflective metal in them that give it its "shine". If you get a single body panel replaced it will look different from the rest of the car because of the way it was painted. From the factory the specs are arranged in a certain way, so the car is uniform. That panel will technically be the same color code, but it won't look like the rest of the car because of the way the specs are lined up.
Only way to do it right is to paint the whole car.[/QUOTE]I learned something interesting today
I've had fuck all to do lately, so I've been watching most of initial D the last few days... makes me want to go outside and actually weld my ae86 together... I just suck at welding.
[QUOTE=Psygo;36738222]I've had fuck all to do lately, so I've been watching most of initial D the last few days... makes me want to go outside and actually weld my ae86 together... I just suck at welding.[/QUOTE]
>inishal dee
>my inspiration for getting 240
Do it man, longer you let it sit longer you cant sit in it. I felt the same for my engine job for the 240 until I actually went and did it. Speaking of which, taking my 240 to the shop to let the guy look at my timing cover. Apparently it might just need new RTV sealant. If not, $100 timing chain cover order which isnt too bad :)
I don't have a license for another 8 months anyway... not that it would really hinder me from driving it if I could anyway.
[editline]12th July 2012[/editline]
I'm a horrible person when it comes to learning new stuff.
[QUOTE=Del91;36731909]Trojan.dropper.bcsminer actually.
[editline]11th July 2012[/editline]
Ran some rootkit killer thing and I BSOD'd. :([/QUOTE]
I had 12 Trojans, ESET is a very high quality antivirus (Costs 80$ a year!) but they'll do a basic scan for free as many times as you want, with removal! They also offer other utilities for free : [url]http://www.eset.com/us/download/utilities/[/url]
The beta used to be free, but then you'd have a untested antivirus running around in your files, I cant find it though.
My friend came over yesterday and we decided to investigate some brake noise coming from the rear-passenger side wheel of my CRX. My buddy's done brakes before, but never drums, and I have little experience with brakes at all aside from moped brakes. We figured we'd take a look though.
We got the tire off, knocked the drum loose and yanked that off too. The brakes and everything surrounding them were black, coated in millimeters of wet brake dust. So tasty. The first thing we noticed is that the dust boots on the piston(s) were off, and the whole piston assembly looked pretty janky. I got the bright idea to see if everything was working correctly and hopped in the car and pushed down the brake. Needless to say, brake fluid sprayed all over the place, the piston(s) hyper-extended, and the automatic slack-adjuster deseated from the pads. Thus began the journey.
We decided that the piston assembly needed replacing becasue of the corrosion inside and on the pistons themselves, so we took that off (with the pads still in place mind you) adn brought it to our local O'reilly's. $10, they'd have it tomorrow morning. Realizing that we couldn't do anything until we got that part in, we decided to cut our losses and wait til today to continue work.
One thing that I wanted to do before we just left teh CRX sit up all night was put a jack stand under teh axle, in case the jack failed for some reason. In the process of jacking up the car further to fit the stand under the axle the apparently rusty as hell jacking point where my jack was positioned failed, the car dropped about 8 inches, and I just about had a heart attack. The jack caught on a bolt sticking out of the frame and a frame ledge though and no damage was done. We wound up sticking a log under the axle and removing the jack.
Thinking that things could only get better from there, we decided to meet before we each had to work. I grabbed the part this morning, we met, and tackled it again. Disassembly of the brake assembly to reseat the slack adjuster was a pain. But we got it, installed the new piston, and bled the brakes in only a matter of two hours. Solved the problem too. Not too shabby for two guys who have no idea what they are doing.
A few things I took away from this:
Check for rust on your jack points(!)
Drum brakes suck.
Fixing shit on your own car is fun.
Drum brakes suck.
Brake parts for 80's Honda Civics are cheap as hell.
Thus ends my first adventure in car ownership. Sorry for the wall of text.
I haven't use jack points once on my car
[editline]12th July 2012[/editline]
I just lift from where it's not soft
Fixing shit on/in your car by yourself is the best way to fix your car imo. You learn a lot about your car, and you appreciate it more knowing that you fixed it yourself
Most of the stuff sounds like they are hard to do but when you get down to it it's usually quite easy
yeah drum brakes suck dick, i hate the accord has rear drums
Drum brakes seem pretty simple to me
LTD has disc brakes.
master race
/o/ is easy as fuck to troll
disc brakes on the rear are annoying too because they usually have the pistons that has to be turned back into the thing, can't just push them.
can be a pain in the ass to turn back in.
There needs to be some Metro Detroit people on here, I need help with the Cobra. My dad doesn't feel like working on it, so I now need help with dropping the trans. Im only 110 pounds, that tranny weights more than me...
[QUOTE=Psygo;36740968]disc brakes on the rear are annoying too because they usually have the pistons that has to be turned back into the thing, can't just push them.
can be a pain in the ass to turn back in.[/QUOTE]
We didn't know this when we did my brakes. Ended up bending a couple clamps before deciding to look it up.
I'm doing a internship (as part of my mechanical engineering class) at a transmission compagny (Berttransmission) who build trans for stock car and racing cars across the US/Canada.
It is interesting but overwhelming because I'm the only one modeling and making CAD in the place.
also: My r154 isnt worth rebuilding, I'm buying a new one
Today has to be the best day ever, I just got my car back this morning, worked on it from 10am to 8pm, Really really tired.
Of course I couldn't have done it without Evilskydiver and my Grandpa, we worked as a team and it still took 10 hours of labor.
I knew it, it was the flexplate that was causing the whole mess, just as I told the mechaninc, and he just blew it off like it was nothing.
So as of when I got the car back
[b]Reinstall the intercooler and radiatior the proper way [/b]
-WIP
[b]Move the MAF which he did not do[/b]
-had to splice into the wiring harness, cut off the current MAF connector then move it, turns out a black and brown wire went two places, major pain in the ass that caused the car not to start.
[b]Move the PCV line which he did not do[/b]
-Damn thing was causing oil to spew out from the valve cover and oil cap, fixed that and saved 200 bucks from making the shop do it. Original mechanics fault because time and time again, I told him this goes pre turbo, not post turbo, so boosed oil lines :P
[b]Install the E fan wiring which he did not do[/b]
-not as massive pain in the ass, but relay wiring and zip ties.
[b]Install the rest of the intercooler piping properly[/b]
-The original mechanic decided to completely fuck this up, he literally cut up my drivers side intake pipe because I started finding it throughout the intercooler system, thanks.
[b]Get my exhaust system installed[/b]
-So much for having anymore money after the 450 dollar fix to make the car run.
[b]Move the O2 Sensor[/b]
-he decided not to do this either, well it shouldn't be too hard, but that's what I said about the MAF.
[b]Figure out why my Wastegate Acutator doesn't work[/b]
- Because I got a misadjusted MBC which was causing the turbo to go whack. Took it off and it fixed the issue.
[b]Hook up the Boost gauge[/b]
-WIP
[QUOTE=Siminov;36746264]Today has to be the best day ever, I just got my car back this morning, worked on it from 10am to 8pm, Really really tired.
Of course I couldn't have done it without Evilskydiver and my Grandpa, we worked as a team and it still took 10 hours of labor.
I knew it, it was the flexplate that was causing the whole mess, just as I told the mechaninc, and he just blew it off like it was nothing.
So as of when I got the car back
[b]Reinstall the intercooler and radiatior the proper way [/b]
-WIP
[b]Move the MAF which he did not do[/b]
-had to splice into the wiring harness, cut off the current MAF connector then move it, turns out a black and brown wire went two places, major pain in the ass that caused the car not to start.
[b]Move the PCV line which he did not do[/b]
-Damn thing was causing oil to spew out from the valve cover and oil cap, fixed that and saved 200 bucks from making the shop do it. Original mechanics fault because time and time again, I told him this goes pre turbo, not post turbo, so boosed oil lines :P
[b]Install the E fan wiring which he did not do[/b]
-not as massive pain in the ass, but relay wiring and zip ties.
[b]Install the rest of the intercooler piping properly[/b]
-The original mechanic decided to completely fuck this up, he literally cut up my drivers side intake pipe because I started finding it throughout the intercooler system, thanks.
[b]Get my exhaust system installed[/b]
-So much for having anymore money after the 450 dollar fix to make the car run.
[b]Move the O2 Sensor[/b]
-he decided not to do this either, well it shouldn't be too hard, but that's what I said about the MAF.
[b]Figure out why my Wastegate Acutator doesn't work[/b]
- Because I got a misadjusted MBC which was causing the turbo to go whack. Took it off and it fixed the issue.
[b]Hook up the Boost gauge[/b]
-WIP[/QUOTE]
Love you too :D
<3
The first time driving it about 8 miles or so was scary, the vac system was all messed up and the car would run really rough, we manually had to hook the fan to the battery whenever we started it up. Once we got it back and rerouted the PCV, then it stopped leaking oil.
Damage had been done though, all the piping turbo side had gunk and oil in it, including the MAF sensor. Thankfully though, it was an aftermarket one that was expendable. The car ran rather rough because of the dying MAF so that had to be worked on as well, on top of the E fan, which as of right now held in by zip ties.
You ninja'd me :0
[QUOTE=Siminov;36746320]The first time driving it about 8 miles or so was scary, the vac system was all messed up and the car would run really rough, we manually had to hook the fan to the battery whenever we started it up. Once we got it back and rerouted the PCV, then it stopped leaking oil.
Damage had been done though, all the piping turbo side had gunk and oil in it, including the MAF sensor. Thankfully though, it was an aftermarket one that was expendable. The car ran rather rough because of the dying MAF so that had to be worked on as well, on top of the E fan, which as of right now held in by zip ties.
You ninja'd me :0[/QUOTE]
bite me~
Now he thinks his volvo is faster than my scirocco but I got news for him. ;p
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