• General Discussion V4: POWERRRRRRRRRRRRR
    9,998 replies, posted
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;37223374]harbor freight? wat[/QUOTE] You've never heard of harbor freight? They are a big tool store, kinda like a home depot but focus more on tools and equipment.
@Banana I'd Recommend craftsman, they have a lifetime warranty on wrenches. [editline]14th August 2012[/editline] That guy with the charger I posted earlier in the thread called me back today(after 2 fucking weeks) and said he had 2 chargers, a 1969(the one that I was looking at) and a 1970 that runs and drives but needs a gas tank and some body work that he said hed sell for like 1500 instead of like 6500 for the 69. Looks like I'm probably going to be purchasing a 1970 charger.
1970 is best charger
[QUOTE=bradley;37223804]1970 is best charger[/QUOTE] I personally like the 69 a bit more because of the split in the grill, but I'll take a running second gen charger any day.
[QUOTE=Concur;37221114]Cramped as fuck engine bay from what I've read.[/QUOTE] So, cramped as fuck and expensive parts? Are there any other sports cars that FP recommends, used of course. Any make/model, but preferably sports cars, not muscle or pony cars. I'm trying to score a job so I can afford something better than my 00 Sable, but I really don't know what I'm looking for car wise.
Thoughts on how to get this always-on CEL to clear? Its on because I cleared the cat and the O2 sensor is going ape shit.
Get another cat.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;37223374]harbor freight? wat[/QUOTE] They sell a lot of tools and equipment for really cheap, most of it is chinese junk but it gets the job done for 1/10th the price of a name brand. I've beaten the hell out of their "Pro" series ratchets and short of stomping the 1/4" ratchet on rusty exhaust bolts they were the best tools I've bought for $8. If you pay a decent price for something it's normally decent but if you buy a $3-4 socket set you should expect $3-4 quality. They also have a lifetime warranty on hand tools. Even when I snapped my ratchet on bolts I should have used a breaker bar for but was lazy and didn't want to raise the car. You hand it to someone at the counter and tell them you broke it and they hand you a nice new one. [QUOTE=areolop;37226475]Thoughts on how to get this always-on CEL to clear? Its on because I cleared the cat and the O2 sensor is going ape shit.[/QUOTE] If you have enough room you could try putting a "[url=https://www.google.com/search?q=spark+plug+non-fouler]spark plug non-fouler[/url]" on it and unhook the battery for a little bit.
oh jesus i finally figured out how to use the semi auto shifter thing in my moms acura, had a fucking blast lol. Delicious.
My dad has a Vauxhall Astra 1.9 CDTI (It's about 5 years old, and they no longer use that engine) and recently it's been making some strange noises when he drives it. He reckons it's the dual mass flywheel that's gone but he's only going off googling the symptoms and looking for the worst case scenario. From what I've seen being in the car with him it seems to make a strange noise that sounds almost like one of the windows is slightly open or two things are lightly grinding together whenever he presses the clutch - anybody got any ideas what that could be?
Charger porn incoming: [img]http://i.imgur.com/90c81.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/h4a6x.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/bSvLO.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/daFJu.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/M0TQo.jpg[/img] Its not an R/T and it has a running 383. Since it needs like a grand or so worth of work to make it decent and its not an R/T I'm thinking of offering him like 2500 because it runs and *can* drive, but the gas tank leaks.
get pictures of underneath
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;37231859]get pictures of underneath[/QUOTE] I know :C
I would repair the fuck out of that charger and then 2jz swap with big single but heh that's me
That's not a 383, the distributor is in the front for a 383, must be a 318 car because the distributor is in the back. That's another thing you can bring up to say its not a R/T and the engine isn't as good. I wouldn't work with the 318, 440 or nothing of your going to put any money into the engine. If its an R/T the vin tag on the driver side of the dash (you can see through the window) should say XS29 meaning its either a R/T or an SE. The passenger side looks like shit but you can pretty much buy every nut and bolt for these cars. Is it a buckets/console car? If it has a console don't even breath on it as B body consoles are super fragile. For $2500 see of you can get the 440 thrown in. For future reference 318/340/360 (340 and 360 have taller intake ports, 360 has a larger crank, 340 a larger bore, 360 has different motor mounts) note the distributor location (magnum because of the extra valve cover bolt holes but a 318 none the less) [thumb]http://image.automotive.com/f/tech/11883332+pheader/0901phr_01_z+mopar_318_magnum_engine+mopar_engine.jpg[/thumb] 361/383/400, again with the distributor location, also notice the deck height. OK engine to work with if you had a car that originally came with one, it's like a SBC [thumb]http://image.moparmusclemagazine.com/f/8948438/mopp_0608_19z+mopar_engine_383_stroker+engine.jpg[/thumb] And the 413/426(wedge)/440 note the tall deck height [thumb]http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/76/25238767-472-440-MOPAR-ENGINE.jpg[/thumb] Resident mopar guy, ask any questions [editline]14th August 2012[/editline] When looking for an engine don't fall into the older blocks are better mindset, read this [url]http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm[/url] TL/DR of that is that while the older blocks had different nickel content the newer blocks had certain reinforcements added, it also tells you about common weak spots to look for on a block, such as the trans mount/ears on the back of its an older block
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;37233203]That's not a 383, the distributor is in the front for a 383, must be a 318 car because the distributor is in the back. That's another thing you can bring up to say its not a R/T and the engine isn't as good. I wouldn't work with the 318, 440 or nothing of your going to put any money into the engine. If its an R/T the vin tag on the driver side of the dash (you can see through the window) should say XS29 meaning its either a R/T or an SE. The passenger side looks like shit but you can pretty much buy every nut and bolt for these cars. Is it a buckets/console car? If it has a console don't even breath on it as B body consoles are super fragile. For $2500 see of you can get the 440 thrown in. For future reference 318/340/360 (340 and 360 have taller intake ports, 360 has a larger crank, 340 a larger bore, 360 has different motor mounts) note the distributor location (magnum because of the extra valve cover bolt holes but a 318 none the less) [thumb]http://image.automotive.com/f/tech/11883332+pheader/0901phr_01_z+mopar_318_magnum_engine+mopar_engine.jpg[/thumb] 361/383/400, again with the distributor location, also notice the deck height. OK engine to work with if you had a car that originally came with one, it's like a SBC [thumb]http://image.moparmusclemagazine.com/f/8948438/mopp_0608_19z+mopar_engine_383_stroker+engine.jpg[/thumb] And the 413/426(wedge)/440 note the tall deck height [thumb]http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/76/25238767-472-440-MOPAR-ENGINE.jpg[/thumb] Resident mopar guy, ask any questions [editline]14th August 2012[/editline] When looking for an engine don't fall into the older blocks are better mindset, read this [url]http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm[/url] TL/DR of that is that while the older blocks had different nickel content the newer blocks had certain reinforcements added, it also tells you about common weak spots to look for on a block, such as the trans mount/ears on the back of its an older block[/QUOTE] My family friend has a 1968 charger that he has a spare 440 and 2 spare 383s for, I might be able to get one off of him.
Also take note of what rear dif it has, likely a 8 3/4 which is a good dif (my coronet has one) [thumb]http://gasalley.thetumbleweeds.net/tech_archive/images/mopar%20axle.jpg[/thumb]
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;37233723]Also take note of what rear dif it has, likely a 8 3/4 which is a good dif (my coronet has one) [thumb]http://gasalley.thetumbleweeds.net/tech_archive/images/mopar%20axle.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] Yeah his 69 that I was originally looking at had an 8 3/4 and it had a 727 tranny with the 440 magnum. [editline]14th August 2012[/editline] [url=http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/3115535648.html]This is what I was looking at[/url] [editline]14th August 2012[/editline] Hey Valon, mind if I add you on steam?
Go ahead, username is "Powerslave", I would go with the R/T because in the end after all the time and money you are going to put into these cars the R/T would be better, plus it isn't beaten on like the other one, advantage of the other one though seems that it is more complete.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;37234409]Go ahead, username is "Powerslave", I would go with the R/T because in the end after all the time and money you are going to put into these cars the R/T would be better, plus it isn't beaten on like the other one, advantage of the other one though seems that it is more complete.[/QUOTE] Yeah, only problem with the 69 R/T is that the guy says he sort of wants to keep it now and won't let it go for anything less than 6500. :C [editline]14th August 2012[/editline] Added you on Steam btw.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;37231733]Charger porn incoming: [img]http://i.imgur.com/90c81.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/h4a6x.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/bSvLO.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/daFJu.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/M0TQo.jpg[/img] Its not an R/T and it has a running 383. Since it needs like a grand or so worth of work to make it decent and its not an R/T I'm thinking of offering him like 2500 because it runs and *can* drive, but the gas tank leaks.[/QUOTE] Gas tanks are not really that hard to replace.
[QUOTE=EvilSkydiver;37234966]Gas tanks are not really that hard to replace.[/QUOTE] Yeah, we did JB weld the CJ5 gas tank, why not try doing that? Unless it's a massive mound of rust.
[QUOTE=Siminov;37234983]Yeah, we did JB weld the CJ5 gas tank, why not try doing that? Unless it's a massive mound of rust.[/QUOTE] Judging by them pictures, I suggest replacing the tank. Also my CJ5 is an early model where the tank is located literaly right under the drivers seat. like the jeep below [img]http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/attachments/f98/9882d1338673366-new-member-1964-build-1966-willys-cj-5-jeep-25-e13046214168851.jpg[/img]
Yeah I know they arent hard to replace, I was just saying you probably shouldnt drive the car because of that since apparently there is a decent sized hole in it.
Shit [img]http://static.fjcdn.com/pictures/Dem+gas+prices..+I+wish+gas+prices+were+like+this_2ab43c_4007204.jpg[/img]
So I'm going to buy a new head unit, at the moment I think I'm going to get the Pioneer AVH-2400BT. I'd like a touchscreen and hands free and £260 or so it's quite nicely priced. Anyone got other ideas? [editline]15th August 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=bradley;37239401]Shit [img]http://static.fjcdn.com/pictures/Dem+gas+prices..+I+wish+gas+prices+were+like+this_2ab43c_4007204.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] You cant hotlink from funnyjunk
[QUOTE=tommyc225;37240287]You cant hotlink from funnyjunk[/QUOTE] *shrug*
We got our 2013 5.0 yesterday. Doing a little photoshoot with it tomorrow, Ill post some pictures. Some details - Track-pack - Recaros - 6 speed - Black with Black rims - Coupe
[QUOTE=piranhamatt;37210908]Southwest Autoshow.. This guy was at Japfest as well, I asked him about it. Spent like £15-20k and its engine broke on the way to japfest so this is a new / rebuilt one [url=http://postimage.org/][img]http://s15.postimage.org/8smixv7ej/IMG_1472.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://postimage.org/]image upload[/url] But I suppose you guys are all like MUSCLE BEATS IMPORT there were some mustangs which look so much cooler..[/QUOTE] It physically hurts me watching a fucking RE-Amemiya kit repainted green. Those are Works Meister II rims too, fucking badass rims. Badass kit and badass rims. Looks like shit. That takes skill to do. You may not like upgraded imports, but this is a fucking badass looking RX-7 with the same kit. [IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c289/Ferosso/hoZ7W.jpg[/IMG]
I finally got my car back $2187.04 to fix it. [editline]14th August 2012[/editline] Keep in mind I was quoted $2411 at first so I'm pretty happy
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