• General Discussion V4: POWERRRRRRRRRRRRR
    9,998 replies, posted
Question, gonna need a new cat probably, should I get the more expensive [url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-93476/]direct fit[/url], or the cheaper [url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59959/]Universal fit[/url]. [editline]6th September 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=bradley;37567173]Fuck that LS swap, RZ is where it's at [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3mj6jxcfa0[/media][/QUOTE] Best Toyota body style
Went to junkyard to go 240sx hunting with my girlfriend. She seems really out of place, lots of dirty old men Mexicans then there's this super-model with a Nissan hat just walking about. First junkyard had no 240sx. The only thing I found was a seemingly out-of-place green 240sx hood. Then the second one had just one 1993 in pristine condition. But when we found it its already being chopped up by two vultures. One taking the twin cam apart, the other taking the pedals. Gave him the $20 for the ultra-rare radio bezel he already had. Chopped the new steering wheel, driver seat, ash tray, side mirror, catch canister. Then when I gave it to my girlfriend, she dropped the rare ash tray and broke it into pieces. I told her, "good fucking job now your 240 still has a gaping hole in the center console." All in all good day for $80 [IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/70c71420.png[/IMG] That feeling of tearing apart a 240sx someone used to thoroughly enjoy. Its like tearing its history apart. Yet happy I get to relive it in my life into my 240sx
Fcuk it, I'll go with the Universal fit. Also, the muff...er, Resonator I'll be putting on my truck. [img]http://images.magnaflow.com/02product/parts/12641.jpg[/img]
Best resonator is glasspack resonator :v:
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;37570847]Best resonator is glasspack resonator :v:[/QUOTE] My friend has an 86 Monte Carlo SS with long-tube headers and glass packs bolted onto the collecters, it sounds SO AWESOME. Too bad its a POS 305 with a bad tranny.
LOL MY ROOM IS SUCH A MESS I was cleaning it up and I found a bill from the gov. it was to renew my driving license (89$), limit to pay was 05/01/2012. yep, been driving for 4 months 5 days without a valid liscence. Worst part is: my job is delivering heavy machinery. [editline]6th September 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=sHiBaN;37570592]Went to junkyard to go 240sx hunting with my girlfriend. She seems really out of place, lots of dirty old men Mexicans then there's this super-model with a Nissan hat just walking about. First junkyard had no 240sx. The only thing I found was a seemingly out-of-place green 240sx hood. Then the second one had just one 1993 in pristine condition. But when we found it its already being chopped up by two vultures. One taking the twin cam apart, the other taking the pedals. Gave him the $20 for the ultra-rare radio bezel he already had. Chopped the new steering wheel, driver seat, ash tray, side mirror, catch canister. Then when I gave it to my girlfriend, she dropped the rare ash tray and broke it into pieces. I told her, "good fucking job now your 240 still has a gaping hole in the center console." All in all good day for $80 [IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/70c71420.png[/IMG] That feeling of tearing apart a 240sx someone used to thoroughly enjoy. Its like tearing its history apart. Yet happy I get to relive it in my life into my 240sx[/QUOTE] see that sc300? if it's really a sc300 and not a 400, check to see if I can have the alternator (2jz-ge). I'll pay for shipping and cost but I want that alt!
Better pay your due, you don't know what Marois can do! :v:
marois is bro with us. Charest (plq) was a bitch, they instored GEV (basically, you pay 2-3 grand fine if you get caught 50km/h above the limit, your car is impounded AT YOUR COST for 30days, you get a 3month liscence removal etc...), they made it so you previously had 15 points, now if you're under 24yo, you get 8 (I passed from 15 to 8, FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU). also you could have 0.08 mg/100ml of blood, now under 22years old its 0. Yeah, I had all that shit and they took it all away while raising tax on fuel and shit, fuck you PLQ. Bring it on PQ and marois, I want you to stop raping my asshole. yesh the Pq already canceled the tuiton fee raise (it would go from 1500$ to 3700$ a semester, fuck you gov), points for marois there. Really the only one going all batshit insane about marois are the rest of the canada because they fucking hate us for no reasons (you speak a different language hurr durr).
I agree with you there. I was watching the elections with the coworkers that night, didn't have the chance to go vote. Closest vote pool for me was 1h30 away(40$ of gas) away from work, since I sleep at the work location. Working for the Sépaq and such. All I know is that the PQ is very chill with us, being a state fed company. And on the points & Alcohol / blood limit they put in, fuck them, sure I only had 4 points, now only having 1 left, only gonna have 5, for another year once I get my next step. But ain't it stupid to put 0%? We can't even drink a beer and come back home legally!
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;37570847]Best resonator is glasspack resonator :v:[/QUOTE] It pretty much is a Glasspack. :v: It's a Straight through Magnafrow [thumb]http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m598/Awike1991/FB_IMG_1341887764886757.jpg[/thumb] [url=http://www.magnaflow.com/wideopen/wideopen.asp]Their description of this particular style.[/url]
Where do you live Del?
Vancouver,Washington, Little older bro to Portland, Oregon.
Do they have vehicle inspections there? If not you should just chop the cats out and patch the piping.
Yeah, I gotta pass Emissions one more time, and then I'm home free. I'm fairly certain my cat is bad though. :\ [editline]6th September 2012[/editline] But it's a good excuse to get 3 inch piping from the Manifolds back...
Oh yeah keep forgetting to post my latest car that is semi-promising. All the previous cars I've looked at have been owned by gigantic assholes. [url]http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/3227303478.html[/url] Here it is, 68 Charger, non-R/T, 383 and original 4 speed car painted like the general lee. It doesn't have the correct hood so I could immediately sell it and make 350-450 bucks. I was thinking it would look nice triple black and with a blower with like 15-20 psi of boost. Although I'd probably have to semi rebuild it so it could handle the power as it is from 1968 :v: . I figured all I need to make it drivable is some paint, and like 1500$ worth of interior parts. Oh and some fluids and an air cleaner, or a blower and a beat up single plane intake to cut up. Would be a kickass car to be driving around, although it'd be no fun cleaning up in races with it :v: . I'm thinking 3 inch pipes from the collecters back and 2 1/8th inch headers or 2.5 inch or whatever they were along with flowmaster 40 series mufflers or just no mufflers at all. Throw some American Racing Vector wheels on it, and its sex. I'd be going for a Fast and the Furious look sorta, just wrong year car, as the Fast and the Furious Charger as a stupid massive blower and is a blacked out 1970 Charger R/T. I'd also eventually have a spare hood, intake, and carb incase I felt like taking the blower off. Thinking a lowish profile blower like this one: [url]http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/images/your_garage/cars/1385_2142387022457455a9bad67.jpg[/url]
[QUOTE=bradley;37567484]No way. 3RZ takes boost from stock VERY well. A set of studs and a decent kit and you can push 350~ on a bone stock bottom end. With a good set of rods and pistons you can get far more out of it. The LS takes boost well in stock form but there is no way you're getting a LS swap for as cheap as a 3RZ engine, and the 3RZ bolts right to a 22RE box. It's the swap I wanted to do in my Celica before I finally just decided I want a V8. 3RZ rods are very close to the thickness of LS1 rods. It's ridiculous how overbuilt the bottom end is. Same with the LS. If I really wanted to still go 3RZ there is one for sale on my local CL for $200 right now. I have the money, but I'm really wanting to go with a 302 instead. Right now I'm trying to save up my money to buy a certain yellow hotrod.[/QUOTE] no 3rz longer stroke tends to break rods at 12-15 psi. the 2rz tends to pop head gaskets at 16 and with upgraded headgasket and arp studs about 25 is the limit your at 400hp then, u need to upgrade the internals. 3rz has a forged crank and 2rz has a cast iron one, seem to be no difference in strength one idea of the 3rzs problem is that balancing shafts throw something askew, 2rz doesn't have the shafts. but on a 10psi 3rz with an air/air or air/water intercooler you are at 250-300 whp i have seen about 6 cases of the 3rz tossing rods around 15psi. usually lets go under deceleration. rods pokes through the block. but you are pushing that 150hp stock motor pretty far. i guess it is not bad. [url]http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/[/url] It made 281hp and 299 ft/lbs at 10 lbs of boost, which is more than it's ever made before A/F Around 12.5-12.0 also You can see the rods from the outside now.... Studs and gasket done, 3 bar map installed, and doing some dyno tuning.... Tuned it to around 16 lbs and everything was great, started feeding it methanol, turned it up to 18 psi, was tuning, HP was deep into the 300's and afr at engine failure was in the mid-high 11's with methanol, and 93 octane..... Around 4000 rpms during a pull, it puked. Windowed the block on each side about the size of my fist. The #4 rod broke, when it came around it cleanly sliced the oil pan in half.... I'm curious if the head is still useable and I just need to replace the shortblock. Guess I wont know, I'm ASSUMING the piston smacked the head. [img]http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/SNC00485.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Deadman123;37571898]Oh yeah keep forgetting to post my latest car that is semi-promising. All the previous cars I've looked at have been owned by gigantic assholes. [url]http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/3227303478.html[/url] Here it is, 68 Charger, non-R/T, 383 and original 4 speed car painted like the general lee. It doesn't have the correct hood so I could immediately sell it and make 350-450 bucks. I was thinking it would look nice triple black and with a blower with like 15-20 psi of boost. Although I'd probably have to semi rebuild it so it could handle the power as it is from 1968 :v: . I figured all I need to make it drivable is some paint, and like 1500$ worth of interior parts. Oh and some fluids and an air cleaner, or a blower and a beat up single plane intake to cut up. Would be a kickass car to be driving around, although it'd be no fun cleaning up in races with it :v: . I'm thinking 3 inch pipes from the collecters back and 2 1/8th inch headers or 2.5 inch or whatever they were along with flowmaster 40 series mufflers or just no mufflers at all. Throw some American Racing Vector wheels on it, and its sex. I'd be going for a Fast and the Furious look sorta, just wrong year car, as the Fast and the Furious Charger as a stupid massive blower and is a blacked out 1970 Charger R/T. I'd also eventually have a spare hood, intake, and carb incase I felt like taking the blower off. Thinking a lowish profile blower like this one: [url]http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/images/your_garage/cars/1385_2142387022457455a9bad67.jpg[/url][/QUOTE] you realize you're gonna be sinking like $10000 plus into the car right?
[url]http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=110767[/url] I wish I could check this out but san diego is too far for me
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vPlDNOhqjI[/media] Ass will be hurting for a month boy!
[QUOTE=Superwafflez;37574163][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vPlDNOhqjI[/media] Ass will be hurting for a month boy![/QUOTE] whops this isn't airsoft daily life :v:
[QUOTE=Al_Borland;37573492][url]http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=110767[/url] I wish I could check this out but san diego is too far for me[/QUOTE] it's so cute... fuck you america.
[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;37572909]you realize you're gonna be sinking like $10000 plus into the car right?[/QUOTE] Yes. Going to be a resto project for me and my dad over like 4 years.
[QUOTE=Deadman123;37574941]Yes. Going to be a resto project for me and my dad over like 4 years.[/QUOTE] I'd say go for it. Carpe diem, dude, and good luck.
[QUOTE=thattaco;37572254]no 3rz longer stroke tends to break rods at 12-15 psi. the 2rz tends to pop head gaskets at 16 and with upgraded headgasket and arp studs about 25 is the limit your at 400hp then, u need to upgrade the internals. 3rz has a forged crank and 2rz has a cast iron one, seem to be no difference in strength one idea of the 3rzs problem is that balancing shafts throw something askew, 2rz doesn't have the shafts. but on a 10psi 3rz with an air/air or air/water intercooler you are at 250-300 whp i have seen about 6 cases of the 3rz tossing rods around 15psi. usually lets go under deceleration. rods pokes through the block. but you are pushing that 150hp stock motor pretty far. i guess it is not bad. [url]http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/[/url] It made 281hp and 299 ft/lbs at 10 lbs of boost, which is more than it's ever made before A/F Around 12.5-12.0 also You can see the rods from the outside now.... Studs and gasket done, 3 bar map installed, and doing some dyno tuning.... Tuned it to around 16 lbs and everything was great, started feeding it methanol, turned it up to 18 psi, was tuning, HP was deep into the 300's and afr at engine failure was in the mid-high 11's with methanol, and 93 octane..... Around 4000 rpms during a pull, it puked. Windowed the block on each side about the size of my fist. The #4 rod broke, when it came around it cleanly sliced the oil pan in half.... I'm curious if the head is still useable and I just need to replace the shortblock. Guess I wont know, I'm ASSUMING the piston smacked the head. [img]http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/SNC00485.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] *shrug* They're still a badass engine. You have to know what you're building to make power. Like I said, most of these problems the 3RZ has are identical to problems the D series had in the past, and everyone building Ds has overcome them. I remember when everyone would bolt on turbos and run 4-5 PSI because they were afraid anything more would blow their engine to bits (and it likely would have). Now we have cheap I beams, H beams, ARP conrod bolts, head studs, good MLS gaskets, vitara pistons, forged shit, sleeves, different crankshafts, even aftermarket blocks from some manufacturers. I believe in the 3RZ. It's still in the trial and error stages. There's still not loads of aftermarket support. But maybe someday there will be. [editline]7th September 2012[/editline] Also, you can tell that was a rod bolt failure leading to rod failure. How many miles were on the engine? Those were obviously stock rod bolts, which are a no-no in a decently boosted engine. [t]http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/CIMG0874.jpg[/t][t]http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/CIMG0871.jpg[/t] [t]http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/CIMG0864.jpg[/t][t]http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii145/Cruznlife1/CIMG0877.jpg[/t]
my general understanding on the subject is that as long as you're not retarded and the engine isn't inherently bad (made of really shitty metals or something) then any boost can be done safely without risking damage to the engine most failures I see are just people forgetting something or deciding to put like 6 turbos on a 120hp engine that just blows up [editline]7th September 2012[/editline] i mean it sounds like the 3JZ is a bit more touchy to modifications, but if you're aware of what you can or can't do with it, it's still a solid platform
[QUOTE=bradley;37576307]*shrug* They're still a badass engine. You have to know what you're building to make power. Like I said, most of these problems the 3RZ has are identical to problems the D series had in the past, and everyone building Ds has overcome them. I remember when everyone would bolt on turbos and run 4-5 PSI because they were afraid anything more would blow their engine to bits (and it likely would have). Now we have cheap I beams, H beams, ARP conrod bolts, head studs, good MLS gaskets, vitara pistons, forged shit, sleeves, different crankshafts, even aftermarket blocks from some manufacturers. I believe in the 3RZ. It's still in the trial and error stages. There's still not loads of aftermarket support. But maybe someday there will be. [editline]7th September 2012[/editline] Also, you can tell that was a rod bolt failure leading to rod failure. How many miles were on the engine? Those were obviously [B]stock rod bolts, which are a no-no in a decently boosted engine.[/B] [/QUOTE] except for JZ's (why do I keep repeting myself you might ask?, BECAUSE IF YOU WANT TO MAKE DECENT BOOST/POWER WITH A LOT OF AFTERMARKET PARTS WITHOUT SPENDING $$$ INTO BUILDING THE BLOCK BECAUSE THE OEM LONGBLOCK CAN TAKE 800HP, GO JZ) lol dunno why I went capslock style. also Sr and Rb series are very strong, no reason to stay with Rz, #m and suchs
You're really preaching to a brick wall here. Also, SR engines are worth a mint, may as well go RB at that point, about the same availability and two extra becauseracecar cylinders, tons of extra power. Again, as I said before, I will be using a Ford Windsor engine, so it's not like any of this has to do with my choice of drivetrain anyways. It's not my favorite V8 engine, but I've seen plenty of people reliably make 500hp out of them boosted or not. Great little motor, cheap as all getout, and the Borg Warner T5 will bolt right up (and you can go with the World Class if you're making any big power) so it's good stuff. [editline]7th September 2012[/editline] Also comparing rod bolts for an engine taking that kind of boost [i]from the factory[/i] with far less stroke is really unfair.
My VW turned over like 5min ago :v: For only like 3 sec.
>turned over You mean ran Turning over is when the engine spins, regardless of fire/fuel. I [i]really[/i] hate when people get that wrong. It's one of my peeves.
STAND BACK MOTHERFUCKERS
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