[QUOTE=TestECull;35035057]Not difficult at all as far as parts complexity, but you may find it a bit tight underneath the car. I suggest putting it on four jack stands to give yourself some literal breathing room underneath it.
It's flat impossible to not end up behind someone on the road. Don't be stupid.
By bug I take it he means you're supposed to do something to the electrical system to break it. Find the crank position sensor and disconnect that. I guarantee you it will make them rage.
It is a Chrysler, actually.
What the god damn fuck did Dodge do to get that unreliable heap of shit onto a best selling platform list? 160,000 miles, immaculate service, never abused, and the transmission is FUCKED.
The Fords? One has 300K, one has 200K, one has 194K, all three have perfect gearboxes and none of them have been rebuilt. The one with 300K has been beat on and neglected as well, and on top of that it's ten years older.
Fuck Caravans. they're disposable heaps of shit.
Then why is mine sitting in my driveway with no fourth gear and burnt transmission fluid when the Fords we have work flawlessly? We have one F150 with 300,000 miles on it, another F150 that just past 200K, and a '97 Explorer with 194K on it's original powertrain. All three run flawlessly. The '96 Caravan with 160K on the clock? NO FOURTH GEAR FOR YOOUUU!
Looking past the Ultradrive failure, the engine runs like ass. It misfires, it stumbles, it has no power, it's sometimes hard to start. The ignition switch is going out as well, sometimes you have to jiggle it to get the van to power up. It's got a parasitic drain too, killed a brand new battery in two weeks of sitting. When it was running it only averaged 14-16MPG, no better than the Fords can muster. It barely revved past 4500 when you buried it, just fell flat on it's face. There was no power to speak of. Every bushing was clunking like crazy, the axles were popping, the dome light didn't work, the driver's side power window didn't work properly(REAL slow to roll up), T the seat position memory didn't work, the power mirrors didn't work, the headlights were so dim they might as well not be there at all, the paint is flaking off in six inch chunks, the gauges don't work when it's cold, it creeps around like the throttle can't close more than 25%, the parking brake needs to be jammed to the firewall if it is to hold the engine back, and there's numerous shot body seals that make it whistle like crazy on the freeway. Lastly, the head liner is collapsing and several of the doors covering the storage containers up front have literally fallen off to the point you can't use them.
And don't get me started on the 'comfort'. There is none for the driver. The steering wheel isn't centered with the seat, there's no legroom for someone 6' tall, the dashboard doesn't hardly tell you a damn thing(Fuel, water temp, RPM, speed, PRNDL status, that's it? Where's my oil pressure? Where's my amperes? Where's my tranny oil temp?). The seat reminds me of those desks they have in high schools. The seatbelts try to strangle me. The airbag in the steering wheel is so big it obscures what precious few gauges you do have if it is turned more than 90º or so. Oh, and getting to the parking brake is an exercise in contortionism, and releasing it ends up with the hood ajar as often as it doesn't thanks to Dodge's bright idea to put the hood release where you expect the parking brake release to be.
Chrysler minivans are disposable junkheaps that were built to warranty. Once you get past the warranty you're supposed to trade it in/scrap it and buy the new model. They have all the longevity of an ice cube in the middle of the Sahara, and I wouldn't buy one if you held me at gunpoint and ordered me to. If I want a van I'll buy a Chevy Astro, mainly because those things will last forever. They're just a longbed regular cab Silverado underneath the van body, and I've NEVER heard anyone say those were unreliable.
If you're wondering how we acquired the Caravan, relax, we didn't buy that heap. It was given to us for free by my grandfather on my mom's side. He bought a '98, didn't need the '96, and we were relying on my 300K+ mile F150 for EVERYTHING. The only 'cost' was putting me on a bus to Florida and then driving the van back. Funnily enough, aside from some clunking and flaking paint, it ran fine on the trip up. But it started falling apart within three months of getting it to Tennessee.[/QUOTE]
Jesus dude, this is a forum, not a CAD comic.
I get to check out my blazer tomorrow. should be rad.
[QUOTE=Batmoutarde;35040704]man the wait before a car you purchased is ready is the most awful thing ever[/QUOTE]
But in the end the wait is very very much worth it!
[QUOTE=bradley;35039822]You can change them, but you can't pack them with grease.
That's what servicing a bearing means -- check it for wear, repack it with grease, reinstall. You have a sealed bearing, you have to replace the entire unit. Sealed bearings are non-serviceable.[/QUOTE]
Sealed bearing are best for application where there is a minimal level of lubrification (in this case, grease). It prevent dirt and fluid from entering and ruining the tight tolerance on the balls, resulting in a overall, longer bearing life within reasonable specs.
ps: I'm totally not studying in mechanical engineering
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;35043927]But in the end the wait is very very much worth it![/QUOTE]
hey you live near me want a saturn
[QUOTE=Batmoutarde;35044226]hey you live near me want a saturn[/QUOTE]
My 'tiac is fine :v:
[QUOTE=>VLN<;35040229]Anybody interested in a free VIN check? I've got a one month unlimited pass with Autocheck.
Just PM me the VIN of a car you want checked out.[/QUOTE]
Sent you a PM.
As did I, Always wanted to know what my car had been through, if any of it was even recorded.
Aspiring to be a buyer of a sans ABS 80's car, I was wondering, are there any aftermarket ABS systems out there?
Fuck ABS. You're better off learning out the right braking technique than relying on your electric control taking control of your brakes. It pisses me off, at least mine gets off when I smash it hard enough. But yeah, mine short-circuit itself so it's even more annoying.
abs is dangerous
I gotta admit, I'm not too impressed with ABS either (especially on my car, which has possibly the most retarded ABS and TCS available on a car).
I should record my ABS Short-circuiting someday. It's like a very loud buzzing noise and stupid braking control, it nearly made me do a 180 one time. It does it everywhere when it shorts, even on perfectly dry pavement. Dear god. Need to re solder those wires properly, but not worth it, they short so rapidly :v: Not very safe.
My ABS works perfectly in every car I've owned.
Not on topic, but CubeMan reminded me of : :v:
[video=youtube;4aGDCE6Nrz0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aGDCE6Nrz0[/video]
Your like the 50th person to say that to me
[QUOTE=Koenigsegg;35045283]Aspiring to be a buyer of a sans ABS 80's car, I was wondering, are there any aftermarket ABS systems out there?[/QUOTE]
You won't need it if you look more than fifteen feet ahead of you and don't overdrive for the conditions. The only time I've ever triggered the ABS in a vehicle that had it at all is when I've intentionally mashed the brakes just to confirm it works.
And I'm by no means an 'expert' driver. I'm just average.
For the record it is possible to retrofit ABS to some cars, models where this is possible will have retained the same unibody and suspension into the mid 90s when it became commonplace, but you're better off learning to drive in such a manner that you don't need it at all. Good drivers never need their ABS, bad drivers rely on it.
[editline]8th March 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;35046096]I should record my ABS Short-circuiting someday. It's like a very loud buzzing noise and stupid braking control, it nearly made me do a 180 one time. It does it everywhere when it shorts, even on perfectly dry pavement. Dear god. Need to re solder those wires properly, but not worth it, they short so rapidly :v: Not very safe.[/QUOTE]
Just pull the fuse and disable the system entirely.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35044152]Sealed bearing are best for application where there is a minimal level of lubrification (in this case, grease). It prevent dirt and fluid from entering and ruining the tight tolerance on the balls, resulting in a overall, longer bearing life within reasonable specs.
ps: I'm totally not studying in mechanical engineering[/QUOTE]
This is why manufacturers switched to sealed bearings decades ago.
I really don't know why anyone would prefer an unsealed bearing, it's extra maintenance that you shouldn't have to do.
So i realized my car is a hybrid.
Burns gasoline and rubber. :quagmire:
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;35045431]Fuck ABS. You're better off learning out the right braking technique than relying on your electric control taking control of your brakes. It pisses me off, at least mine gets off when I smash it hard enough. But yeah, mine short-circuit itself so it's even more annoying.[/QUOTE]
ABS in Renault is useless. I was driving down a small icy hill towards a road and started braking and the ABS started to fuck with the brakes so I slowed down way too little and almost slammed into the side of another car. I slammed the brakes even harder and then ABS stopped interfering and [I]then[/I] the car actually started slowing down.
My ABS has saved my ass a couple times like when cars decide to cut across 4 empty lanes to be in the furthest left lane doing less than the speed limit and far less than the speed I was doing. Although all of these happened in the rain where braking is much more touchy, with the Hawk ceramic pads and stainless brakelines I've put on my car ABS is rather nice as well. Despite how much you guys might feel that you're professional drivers when a frightening and sudden situation happens it's pretty damn likely for you to lock them.
I'm not aware of any aftermarket systems, it would also be a huge fucking pain to swap over all of the ABS components from a trim or model of your car so that it would work. Older ABS systems are also very likely to have failed by now as I've yet to see a pre-OBD2 ABS system to be working on any Honda I've come across.
[editline]7th March 2012[/editline]
ABS is absolutely terrible when it interferes with braking though, in the snow/ice it's a total joke.
If I were to swap out my connecting rods and pistons for some lightweight aluminum ones with factory specifications would I still loosely retain the same fuel consumption while having better throttle response due to the lower rotational weight?
Would light weight rocker arms, light weight flywheel, and aluminum driveshaft in same same package all still retain around the same factory specifications while making the vehicle more efficient.
That's kind of what I'm aiming for right now, not making a bunch of power which would wreck driveability but rather making what I have currently more efficient.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;35046926]My ABS has saved my ass a couple times[/QUOTE]
Saved me from plowing into a wall due to black ice.
Doesn't matter if you know correct braking technique for a non ABS car (I do), as soon as shit hits the fan that all goes out the window and you slam on the anchors :v: - I'd rather ABS did the thinking for me in that situation.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;35046926]My ABS has saved my ass a couple times like when cars decide to cut across 4 empty lanes to be in the furthest left lane doing less than the speed limit and far less than the speed I was doing. Although all of these happened in the rain where braking is much more touchy, with the Hawk ceramic pads and stainless brakelines I've put on my car ABS is rather nice as well. Despite how much you guys might feel that you're professional drivers when a frightening and sudden situation happens it's pretty damn likely for you to lock them.[/quote] You've got aftermarket brake parts, so it's far easier to lock your tires up. ABS will actually prove useful there.
I actually have to try to lock mine up to get them to lock. Between the stock brakes, rear drums not working more often than they are, the non-functional brake booster, and 5,000 pounds of weight, it's pretty tricky to lock up.
[quote]I'm not aware of any aftermarket systems, it would also be a huge fucking pain to swap over all of the ABS components from a trim or model of your car so that it would work. Older ABS systems are also very likely to have failed by now as I've yet to see a pre-OBD2 ABS system to be working on any Honda I've come across.[/quote] It's pretty common to do with Ford trucks. Fairly easy to do too. I've actually entertained ideas of retrofitting RWABS to mine because there's no weight back there and the rears are always the first to lock when I do get it to lock up. But then I remember it'd cost about a thousand dollars for a newer rear axle and the computers to run it, and that I actually have to try to lock up anyway, so I don't look farther into it. :v:
[quote]ABS is absolutely terrible when it interferes with braking though, in the snow/ice it's a total joke.[/QUOTE]
This is why most of us don't like ABS. It just gets in the way when the traction is preciously low.
My mom's Explorer has ABS, and honestly, I'm glad for that. I love her, but I'm not so sure about her reflexes and driving ability anymore, the ABS would be far more useful for her than it would be for me.
[editline]8th March 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;35047278]If I were to swap out my connecting rods and pistons for some lightweight aluminum ones with factory specifications would I still loosely retain the same fuel consumption while having better throttle response due to the lower rotational weight?[/quote] More or less, yeah.
[quote]Would light weight rocker arms, light weight flywheel, and aluminum driveshaft in same same package all still retain around the same factory specifications while making the vehicle more efficient.[/quote] Keep the stock flywheel. The lightweight one will affect idle quality in a negative way, and it will make it want to die a bit in cold weather. The flywheel is heavy for good reason, it smooths out power impulses and helps keep the engine turning over at idle, so if you're trying to maintain driveability a lightweight flywheel isn't a good idea.
Otherwise, go with the lighter parts.
[quote]That's kind of what I'm aiming for right now, not making a bunch of power which would wreck driveability but rather making what I have currently more efficient.[/QUOTE]
Lighten the rest of the car too. The less weight the car has to move, rotating or not, the less fuel it will use to accelerate it. Your highway mileage will remain about the same, but you should be able to make some decent gains with city mileage.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;35046926]My ABS has saved my ass a couple times like when cars decide to cut across 4 empty lanes to be in the furthest left lane doing less than the speed limit and far less than the speed I was doing. Although all of these happened in the rain where braking is much more touchy, with the Hawk ceramic pads and stainless brakelines I've put on my car ABS is rather nice as well. Despite how much you guys might feel that you're professional drivers when a frightening and sudden situation happens it's pretty damn likely for you to lock them.
I'm not aware of any aftermarket systems, it would also be a huge fucking pain to swap over all of the ABS components from a trim or model of your car so that it would work. Older ABS systems are also very likely to have failed by now as I've yet to see a pre-OBD2 ABS system to be working on any Honda I've come across.
[editline]7th March 2012[/editline]
ABS is absolutely terrible when it interferes with braking though, in the snow/ice it's a total joke.[/QUOTE]
I've seen a few accidents happen, ABS allows the driver to carry on steering whilst braking as hard as possible without skidding. Of all the crashes I've seen the driver could have swerved quite easily to avoid but they just slammed the brakes on and ploughed into the back of the car, muppets.
ABS is good at what it does, compared the 90% of the drivers, even those who think they are driving gods it will stop you quicker in the dry and even wet than cadence braking will. It's know to not work in the snow, the system doesn't know the weather so as soon as the wheel locks up it does it's job and releases. It's your job to drive according to the snow, you should be driving smooth enough to have time to break without locking the wheels.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;35048125]Saved me from plowing into a wall due to black ice.
Doesn't matter if you know correct braking technique for a non ABS car (I do), as soon as shit hits the fan that all goes out the window and you slam on the anchors :v: - I'd rather ABS did the thinking for me in that situation.[/QUOTE]
The last thing I would do is slam on the anchors because then you have no control.
We picked up the MX5 yesterday but the weather was terrible so only got to spend some time with it today. More pictures in [url=http://facepunch.com/threads/1160392?p=35050411&viewfull=1#post35050411]Photos of your car[/url].
[img]http://db.tt/sBXDJVPO[/img]
It's a Mk1 1990 Eunos (Japanese Import) S-Special which comes with a LSD, extra bracing and uprated Bilstein Suspension.
So now for the kinda unfair first impressions comparison to my Racing Puma:
[img]http://db.tt/pl8yhmvJ[/img]
Instantly I felt the seating position wasn't as good as in my FRP, you sat a lot lower in the MX5 which is good, but the pedals are slightly offset and not dead straight. And I felt the steering wheel was a little close and the pedals a little far for my tastes.
Next, it rolls a lot more in the corners, even with the uprated Bilstein Suspension, in comparison to my FRP. Although there isn't a lot that does roll less than my FRP it is extremely firm which makes for a harsh daily driver but an absolute weapon on track, so the Mx5 will be getting a suspension upgrade soon.
The engine is sweet and although down on power (115BHP) compared to the FRP (155BHP) is really great and pulls well and makes a sweet noise that's very similar to the Puma. And it can be easily upgraded with some forced induction mods.
I haven't had a chance to really push the MX5 yet so I can't comment on which is the more fun, although both being standard the Racing Puma would leave the MX5 behind on a track both on the straights and in the corners, there isn't much that can keep up with a FRP round the bends. However that doesn't mean it will be more fun, the MX5 being RW-drive means it's more setup for fun than the FW-drive FRP.
We have plenty to do to the MX5 to prepare it for track use so by the time it's all done it should be a decent comparison.
[QUOTE=areolop;35050451]The last thing I would do is slam on the anchors because then you have no control.[/QUOTE]
Instant reaction though...
I've slammed on my brakes in my truck before, it's terrifying. No abs, all four wheels locked up, means that you're going to plow into whatever's in front of you, and you're too shocked to let off the brakes most times.
While I agree with that, I still think it's better off not having ABS. I never slammed the brakes other than in practice on different conditions, and I know that my reaction when in situations where I have to slam them, well, I don't slam them.
I'm not an expert driver, far from that, but my reaction isn't to slam the brake, it never was. I know what it does, on the other end, experienced it. Sure it may be someday, but I'd rather not have ABS, and keep my reaction on the right side.
[QUOTE=Dip;35052546]Instant reaction though...[/QUOTE]
I dont have this reaction because... Well, I was never taught to touch the brakes in that situation. God damn Minnesota and yer Frozen Lakes
also from LMAO Pics
[img]http://i.imgur.com/m9ETh.jpg[/img]
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