Firearms XIII - Talk about all the guns - General

Pictures [T]http://i.imgur.com/qmPVpn8.jpg[/T] I was having a difficult time getting a clear shot of the chamber, I'll try again later when I attempt some barrel pictures. [T]http://i.imgur.com/5lhxlz6.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/5OHgDV4.jpg[/T] Unfortunately the wrong sling, his husky decided that all of his leather mosin slings were delicious. I will procure a correct one later. [T]http://i.imgur.com/RbBlb2F.jpg[/T] Detail shots of the bayonet, there are no numbers on it, but it fits the gun perfectly. I have heard of some Finnish bayonets not having numbers on them, maybe it's the correct one? [T]http://i.imgur.com/PAZJp4m.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/Q6ymVrz.jpg[/T] Family picture [T]http://i.imgur.com/VGuwyog.jpg[/T] The action on it is remarkably smooth, better than any Mosin Nagant I have fondled in the past, and even more so with a thin layer of Redline CV-2 in key areas. I've always wanted a Mosin, but could never find a decent one locally until now, $125 well spent.

Leather sling? Wut? All the mosins I've ever bought came with that green canvas sling with the leather clasps. Also you got a Finnish Nugger for $125? What the fuck?

He said it originally had a thin brown leather sling on it, which according to info on Finnish m91s should be correct. The canvas sling that he replaced the eaten one with has Chinese on it, so I assume it's off of a type 53. I was in the market for a revolver and he told me he had a hotrodded early vintage Taurus model 65, 357 that he would sell me for $150. Then he said he'd throw in a mosin for $125. Naturally I said yes.

[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;49919330]This bothers me a lot for some reason.[/QUOTE] A gun painted like a toy? Nah

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;49917255]Anyone here a long time owner of a G20 that shoots full power loads? My Glock 20 just reached the 500 round mark and all it's had through it, is full power underwood 180 Speer FMJ's. I've heard so much about how the stock recoil spring isn't enough to keep the frame from being battered, but of course.. Like I had mentioned last time, I picked up a 22 pound Gen 3 spring, put a Gen4 to gen3 recoil spring adapter in there and thats where all of my issues started. The gun would hiccup, FTF's out the damn roof and the bullets magically found a way to get caught. [T]http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x111/Radduke/Mobile%20Uploads/c2f46e27-0196-4e3a-a635-7ee4274eead0_zps438a5a6a.jpg[/T] Not my glock, but it did this EXACT thing, 60% of the time with the aftermarket spring in the gun.[/QUOTE] If it aint broke don't fix it. You have to remember the Glock 20 was built from the ground up to use true 10mm specifically for the FBI. People say a lot of stuff but that doesn't mean they know what they're talking about, this sentence included. Long story short one thing you have to realize is true 10mm and what companies like underwood are loading are two things. Underwood loads their shit hot, so it's going to put more abuse on the frame than say american eagle's true load (not FBI). If you intend on using those hot loads try running a recoil buffer in there, it wears those out instead of the frame and they're usually good for around 800-1000 rounds. They're inexpensive and easily replaced.

So Crazy Croatian Boris wasn't lying to me. Look what I just picked up for $200: [t]http://i.imgur.com/iLLmdQk.jpg[/t] The bore is so good I felt like it may be a post-war refurb, until I found some stamps on it. Even then I feel like it might be a post-war barrel made just for this gun, because it's got the same serial.

Bore pictures are hard... [T]http://i.imgur.com/KsPqgR4.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/Qn1rCIr.jpg[/T] My best effort at getting a shot of the chamber, or part of it. I don't think it's been modified at all. [T]http://i.imgur.com/XVpxCmU.jpg[/T] To make up for that terrible effort I went nuts with my other guns... MACRO GATS! [T]http://i.imgur.com/5rE42K9.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/EBWY1ii.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/LMIa6Vb.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/CrWd1iN.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/EWEv10V.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/9iThXzr.jpg[/T] [T]http://i.imgur.com/gjiv5Rt.jpg[/T]

[QUOTE=Snoberry Tea;49918744]I'm so excited, guys. I start my new job on Monday and within 30 days after starting I get my sign on bonus. Totally going to buy this sexy motherfucker right here [img]http://www.marlinfirearms.com/images/bigbore/zoom-1895GBL.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] Lever actions and double-barreled shotguns (O/U and S/S) will forever remain the best looking and classiest guns. [editline]13th March 2016[/editline] AR-15s, AKs, M14s, SKS' and shit like that looks ugly. [editline]13th March 2016[/editline] [IMG]https://facepunch.com/fp/flags/au.png[/IMG]

[img]https://facepunch.com/fp/flags/au.png[/img] tears.

[QUOTE=download;49923467][img]https://facepunch.com/fp/flags/au.png[/img] tears.[/QUOTE] I don't think you ever got back to me (or I might not have even asked) how your Adler is holding up. Was it the 20" or the 28" version?

The 28" and fine. If you want to see the opinions of people who have abused theirs I'd suggest /k/.

[QUOTE=download;49923546]The 28" and fine. If you want to see the opinions of people who have abused theirs I'd suggest /k/.[/QUOTE] So none of the lever cocking issues with yours? I've heard bad things about the lever but it seems to be an issue exclusive to the 20" model. Also I check /k/ every now and then and can't find any Australian threads.

How do you guys keep your guns looking presentable? Mine are always covered in grease and dust. Like, those macro shots? My guns would look like a petri dish.

It bleeds out from the inside. :v: CLP comes out of the bolt/slide/etc and runs down the frame of whatever gun is in question. Then dust in the air sticks to the CLP. It also runs out of the seam between the upper/lower of my AR-15.

Wow, I don't usually use that much. Applying it to a rag and wiping everything down gets the job done with no excess for me.

[QUOTE=Zerokateo;49917255]Anyone here a long time owner of a G20 that shoots full power loads? My Glock 20 just reached the 500 round mark and all it's had through it, is full power underwood 180 Speer FMJ's. I've heard so much about how the stock recoil spring isn't enough to keep the frame from being battered, but of course.. Like I had mentioned last time, I picked up a 22 pound Gen 3 spring, put a Gen4 to gen3 recoil spring adapter in there and thats where all of my issues started. The gun would hiccup, FTF's out the damn roof and the bullets magically found a way to get caught. [T]http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x111/Radduke/Mobile%20Uploads/c2f46e27-0196-4e3a-a635-7ee4274eead0_zps438a5a6a.jpg[/T] Not my glock, but it did this EXACT thing, 60% of the time with the aftermarket spring in the gun.[/QUOTE] Yes, I've had a Gen 3 G20 with an aftermarket 24lb recoil spring for a while and it shoots full power Underwood and .40 cal loads without issue.

[QUOTE=TechnoSandwic;49923443]Lever actions and double-barreled shotguns (O/U and S/S) will forever remain the best looking and classiest guns. [editline]13th March 2016[/editline] AR-15s, AKs, M14s, SKS' and shit like that looks ugly. [editline]13th March 2016[/editline] [IMG]https://facepunch.com/fp/flags/au.png[/IMG][/QUOTE] All guns are gorgeous if made to the proper standards.

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;49924280]How do you guys keep your guns looking presentable? Mine are always covered in grease and dust. Like, those macro shots? My guns would look like a petri dish.[/QUOTE] I use one of those silicone gun and reel cloths to scrub everything down and remove fingerprints, particulate and dust, if it's a high polished blued surface like the A-500G, I follow it with a wipe down with a clean, lint free cloth to remove any streaks. Occasionally after going to the range with certain guns (mainly my dirty ass semi-auto pistols), I've used my automotive parts cleaner to get into all of the nooks and crannies of everything followed by a thorough blasting with the air gun. Then followed up by conventional cleaning and the silicone cloth. Sometimes you can use a Popsicle stick behind a patch with cleaner, or the cleaning cloth to do hard corners were deposits like to build up.

I really need to take the grips off my Mauser and soak it in brake cleaner. It's got crud built up in crannies I can't get to with a [I]needle[/I]. Fine machining is great until it comes to cleaning it out. As for the other guns I think it's just that CLP is pretty runny and penetrates everything eventually, I might be using too much but it keeps em from rusting so I don't mind if they aren't pretty while sitting in the case.

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;49924828]I really need to take the grips off my Mauser and soak it in brake cleaner. It's got crud built up in crannies I can't get to with a [I]needle[/I]. Fine machining is great until it comes to cleaning it out. [/QUOTE] That's the kind of stuff a parts washer with a brush nozzle is useful for removing, the slide on my smith 4006 has lots of spots that I can't easily get clean by conventional methods.

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;49924414]It bleeds out from the inside. :v: CLP comes out of the bolt/slide/etc and runs down the frame of whatever gun is in question. Then dust in the air sticks to the CLP. It also runs out of the seam between the upper/lower of my AR-15.[/QUOTE] If you're applying enough CLP to leave a noticeable sheen, you're wrong. All that's gonna do is pick up dust and cause a jam.

So I just got to do room clearing exercises with one of the regiments of the Canadian Army. It was kinda weird walking around with a C7 like it's nothing.

[QUOTE=Psychokitten;49925015]If you're applying enough CLP to leave a noticeable sheen, you're wrong. All that's gonna do is pick up dust and cause a jam.[/QUOTE] With CLP maybe. AR's love to be run wet. If you're running a dedicated lube such as slip 2000 you want to bath the BCG in it, and you'll pretty much have no issues. We've got a rock river arms at the shop that we've run close to 12,000 rounds through doing nothing but pulling the BCG out, wiping it down, and bathing it in Slip 2000 that hasn't skipped a beat. The trigger group is full of black sludge, but the rifle doesn't care.

Looking at it more and more I think I'm going to pick up a Kahr P9 as a larger carry piece once I move. It's a bit pricier than I'd like but I got my hands on one when I went to the gun show and have been reading up on it and it's just what I want.

[QUOTE=PrusseLusken;49927128]uncejimmema is a mod? since when?? congrats, bud![/QUOTE] As of 27 mins ago looks like.

I want a DeLisle Carbine. There is only one place making them now, and they're $2500 [IMG]http://www.valkyriearms.com/images/delisle1.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=Ridge;49928581]I want a DeLisle Carbine. There is only one place making them now, and they're $2500 [IMG]http://www.valkyriearms.com/images/delisle1.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] That's what happens with the economics of scale. It's a small time outfitter, they can't bring cost down by making in bulk. I've been toying around with the idea of making repro Mauser parts and that's the problem that I keep running into. My boss is all on board to do it, but i need to get some to sell first. I need to have them made, which in a small test batch will be expensive, and thus I'd have to sell them at a higher price. I sell them at a higher price and people may not want to buy them, and thus I'm out money. So it's either invest my own money into it (which i have no where near enough to make it cost effective) or I hope i can find a small time shop willing to do small batches on the cheap.

I don't think you're gonna be able to break into the Mauser parts unless you see that there is demand for the parts. Like for people who want to un-bubba their guns. Since there are cheap Yugos and other Mauser alternatives for cheap, I think you may have a problem. Do some market research and see if people will be willing to buy your new manufactured parts over a parts gun/kit rather than doing a test batch. Polls on other firearm forums can do you wonders right now. Any business will tell you that research is one of the best ways to gauge whether or not to make a product. Easier to shell out a few hundred thousand to find a market than to build a multi-million dollar operation just to have it crash due to no real market. Granted I understand that you are in a small business.

[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;49928709]I don't think you're gonna be able to break into the Mauser parts unless you see that there is demand for the parts. Like for people who want to un-bubba their guns. Since there are cheap Yugos and other Mauser alternatives for cheap, I think you may have a problem. Do some market research and see if people will be willing to buy your new manufactured parts over a parts gun/kit rather than doing a test batch. Polls on other firearm forums can do you wonders right now. Any business will tell you that research is one of the best ways to gauge whether or not to make a product. Easier to shell out a few hundred thousand to find a market than to build a multi-million dollar operation just to have it crash due to no real market. Granted I understand that you are in a small business.[/QUOTE] I should have been more specific, which was my mistake. Mauser C-96 parts.

Gotcha. Well I know at least one FP'er will be interested in this then. I'd love to have a Delisle carbine though. Use off the shelf 45 and never pay for premium subsonic ammo.