• Post your camera gear/gear discussion thread
    2,407 replies, posted
Even though I mostly shoot film, I guess I'll post my digital setup. Body: Olympus E-PL1 Lenses: Panasonic 20mm f1.7 (40mm in 35mm) (Mounted) Olympus 14-42mm f3.5-5.6 (28-84mm in 35mm) Olympus 40-150mm f4-5.6 (80-300mm in 35mm) Accessories: Olympus VF-2 Electronic viewfinder OM-M/43 Adapter [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/0ZvWT.png[/IMG] And a size comparison with my Olympus OM-1N [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/S7Tdh.png[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Alcapwne;31625569]Speaking of battery grips, is there any reason why only the top end camera for Nikon and Canon has them?[/QUOTE]They don't... You can get a battery grip for a lot of digital bodies out there, but as far as I know they only produce them for DSLRs. I can get a grip for my 350D for little over £20, and I would hardly say a 350D is "top end"!
[QUOTE=runtime;31644447]They don't... You can get a battery grip for a lot of digital bodies out there, but as far as I know they only produce them for DSLRs. I can get a grip for my 350D for little over £20, and I would hardly say a 350D is "top end"![/QUOTE] he means built in
Just got back from town and brought these two little babys with me. (mine is the 50mm, the other one belongs to my Dad, but ofcourse I am free to use it too.) [thumb]http://horobox.reager.org/u/tmARiku_1313008583.jpg[/thumb] Loving the 50mm so far.
[QUOTE=Dominik93;31648483]Just got back from town and brought these two little babys with me. (mine is the 50mm, the other one belongs to my Dad, but ofcourse I am free to use it too.) [thumb]http://horobox.reager.org/u/tmARiku_1313008583.jpg[/thumb] Loving the 50mm so far.[/QUOTE] I bought the same 55-250 and it's wonderful! So far I've had no troubles, the only obvious thing is that AF is a little slow but it's quick enough for most situations. Also at around 200mm it'll be a little more shaky so crank up your ISO some in lowlight conditions if you're shooting something a little far off.
how important is IS? I have shaky hands, so I always thought it was a super important feature, but so many Canikon lenses aren't stabilized. and I've been going without a tripod or stabilization on a film camera. and of all things my photos might be, they're not shaky...
[url]http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/image-stabilization.htm[/url] How slow have you been shooting?
[QUOTE=GraniteMouse;31650129]how important is IS? I have shaky hands, so I always thought it was a super important feature, but so many Canikon lenses aren't stabilized. and I've been going without a tripod or stabilization on a film camera. and of all things my photos might be, they're not shaky...[/QUOTE] IS is only useful for telephotos and video. With no IS the slowest easily use-able shutter speed should be considered as 1/focal length, but this isn't always true since I can shoot at 93mm (58mm on 1.6 crop) at 1/15 handheld.
[QUOTE=GraniteMouse;31650129]how important is IS? I have shaky hands, so I always thought it was a super important feature, but so many Canikon lenses aren't stabilized. and I've been going without a tripod or stabilization on a film camera. and of all things my photos might be, they're not shaky...[/QUOTE] I'll be honest, it does make a good difference especially on lower ISOs at extended distances. But if you use a tripod it's not really important. But as said above, some of the shake will be diminished but regardless any kind of shake is noticeable in lowlight at lower ISOs.
[QUOTE=B-hazard;31650613]IS is only useful for telephotos and video. With no IS the slowest easily use-able shutter speed should be considered as 1/focal length, but this isn't always true since I can shoot at 93mm (58mm on 1.6 crop) at 1/15 handheld.[/QUOTE] putting your camera to quiet mode also helps, as it reduces the vibration from the mirror slamming up. I feel like a sniper taking the shot when I need it; hold my breath, steady my hand, aaaaaand squeeze the trigger. deep exhale. heh I've been using a 50mm and a 35mm (on crop), can still shoot pretty steady down to 1/8-ish, depending.
[QUOTE=daijitsu;31651090]putting your camera to quiet mode also helps, as it reduces the vibration from the mirror slamming up. I feel like a sniper taking the shot when I need it; hold my breath, steady my hand, aaaaaand squeeze the trigger. deep exhale. heh I've been using a 50mm and a 35mm (on crop), can still shoot pretty steady down to 1/8-ish, depending.[/QUOTE] 1000d doesn't have quiet mode :v:
The 1100D doesn't either sadly. Now I wonder if Magic Lantern adds the feature, and if anything will Magic Lantern work on the 1100D/T3?
[QUOTE=Bredirish123;31651165]The 1100D doesn't either sadly. Now I wonder if Magic Lantern adds the feature, and if anything will Magic Lantern work on the 1100D/T3?[/QUOTE] Probably not. 1100d is terrible anyway.
[QUOTE=B-hazard;31651230]Probably not. 1100d is terrible anyway.[/QUOTE] I don't think so, I love the T3, and I've had great experiences with it being my first DSLR.
mirror lock up? [editline]10th August 2011[/editline] thats under custom function something or other
[QUOTE=cueballv2themax;31651599]mirror lock up? [editline]10th August 2011[/editline] thats under custom function something or other[/QUOTE] I know there's a function for manual cleaning, but that's all I've found.
under custom functions you can enable mirror lockup so when you take a photo, the mirror goes up, then when you take the photo the shutter goes up and mirror goes down again
I've actually never known what the fuck silent shooting did because I rarely used liveview.
[QUOTE=ijyt;31652921]I've actually never known what the fuck silent shooting did because I rarely used liveview.[/QUOTE] quiet does two things: lowers the sound of the picture taking by raising the mirror softer, timing it so that it waits a split second then releases the shutter (so it doesn't layer the sound with mirror and cause a louder overall sound), and allows you to hold the shutter button until you want the mirror to go back down, so (for instance) you can wait until a person speaking talks again to release the mechanism and hide the sound of the mirror plopping back down. It also feels thicker and more mechanical, and helped me teach my sister to think before clicking away because it feels like every shot is heavy and costly. Yay, psychological tricks
Sad thing is Canon removed Mirror Lockup on the 1100d, it automatically works in LV but I usually don't shoot with LV.
Anybody know if the canon 55-250mm EF lens is any good for portraits? I'm thinking of an L lens, but seeing as they cost more than double anything I make, I'll be waiting quite a bit.
[QUOTE=Beafman;31654719]Anybody know if the canon 55-250mm EF lens is any good for portraits? I'm thinking of an L lens, but seeing as they cost more than double anything I make, I'll be waiting quite a bit.[/QUOTE] If you are looking to do portraits on a crop sensor get a Sigma 30mm f1.4 or Canon 50mm f1.8/1.4, if you are lucky enough to have a full-frame get a 50mm f1.8/1.4 or a 85mm f1.8.
[QUOTE=Beafman;31654719]Anybody know if the canon 55-250mm EF lens is any good for portraits? I'm thinking of an L lens, but seeing as they cost more than double anything I make, I'll be waiting quite a bit.[/QUOTE] I got that lens since today and I wouldn't use it for portraits although I also got the 50mm B-hazard mentioned ( the Canon one with f1.8) and it can do some great Portraits! (using it on a crop sensor) So yeah, get the 50mm although the 30mm one might also be a good choice.
Another vote for 50 1.8
[QUOTE=Dominik93;31654991]I got that lens since today and I wouldn't use it for portraits although I also got the 50mm B-hazard mentioned ( the Canon one with f1.8) and it can do some great Portraits! (using it on a crop sensor) So yeah, get the 50mm although the 30mm one might also be a good choice.[/QUOTE] 30mm is good for both portraits and street/general photography, so the 30mm is a better choice as an all-rounder.
[QUOTE=B-hazard;31655212]30mm is good for both portraits and street/general photography, so the 30mm is a better choice as an all-rounder.[/QUOTE] Thank you guys :)
Going to get my 35mm Nikkor f1.8 today, can't wait :D
35 1.8G is crisp as all hell, I love it. I keep it on my D7000 most of the time, with my 50 1.8D stuck onto my film camera so I can either take pictures quick with that, or swap lenses around and just use the FE as a fancy lens holster, heh. posted in the which camera thread, but here's the battery grip, the RF trigger head (not flashing anything at the moment though), and my 35 (lens hood snapped on, but reversed). it's a 100% size crop taken in a bathroom, don't expect quality miracles from fullsize. [t]http://gyazo.com/fc07703889916cbe772b5eafca2aae52.png[/t]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/IFruk.jpg[/img] Fun fact: This actually takes good photos, but I can't seem to find the CF anywhere. Nevertheless it's pretty good, it does take videos, can't wait to see how that looks when I dig up a CF card.
[QUOTE=daijitsu;31662593]35 1.8G is crisp as all hell, I love it. I keep it on my D7000 most of the time, with my 50 1.8D stuck onto my film camera so I can either take pictures quick with that, or swap lenses around and just use the FE as a fancy lens holster, heh. posted in the which camera thread, but here's the battery grip, the RF trigger head (not flashing anything at the moment though), and my 35 (lens hood snapped on, but reversed). it's a 100% size crop taken in a bathroom, don't expect quality miracles from fullsize. [t]http://gyazo.com/fc07703889916cbe772b5eafca2aae52.png[/t][/QUOTE] I am still infuriated that there is not an inexpensive Canon equivalent of that lens, 50mm on a crop is just too tight.
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