Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

Sure but think of the indent as a switch to 'DS Mode' temporarily, regardless of the mode you're in. For example, a situation requiring a quick burst of power like overtaking or climbing a steep hill. Once you release the pedal before the indent, the transmission will return to the correct gear based on speed, RPM, and shift strategy(which outside of DS mode is more geared for fuel economy).

The brap juice is now 1.05$ in my area.... [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Stuff/gas%201252016.jpg[/t]

So, I kinda decided what I want to do with the new slant. So I have 2 turbos. Both have a t3 exhaust housing. One is a t3/t4, the other a t3/t3 so in theory both create the same backpressure. I will have two exhaust flanges, seen here: [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slant-6-Six-Dodge-Plymouth-Mopar-225-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-Flanges-1-2-thick-/321964095901?hash=item4af68e399d:m:meZyChzjxHK5j630Y6vGB7w&vxp=mtr"]ebay[/URL] Each flange is for the exhaust of 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 respectively. I'd like to have one header going down and turning forward to the t3/t4 turbo, and the other going down and turning back to a t3/t4 turbo. Both exhaust outlets pointing down, but one facing the rear of the car, one facing forward. Then I will weld the two t3 flanges from the manifolds together using bar stock or something, to effectively make one manifold, or something that comes off as one piece basically. The smaller compressor will feed the larger one. It would be a parallel compound compressor setup like on small diesels. Weather it makes sense or not, I'm going to have both turbos installed. This is for popping of the hood factor. I don't care how fast it is, just how rediculous. I want mopar guys at car shows to get REALLY mad and tell me I shoulda just bought one der dem threesixtays.

[QUOTE=clutch2;49606883]Lol dude it's the DSM life. The PO was probably so poor from fixing everything else the money for a valve cover gasket was gone. My room mate is back to 3 of them, kill me please.[/QUOTE] Speaking of which, my brothers DSMs tranny went tits up. He's gonna buy his buddies suburban with a summit racing crate motor in it and retire his eclipse from DD duty.

[QUOTE=Serj22;49607981] Each flange is for the exhaust of 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 respectively. I'd like to have one header going down and turning forward to the t3/t4 turbo, and the other going down and turning back to a t3/t4 turbo. Both exhaust outlets pointing down, but one facing the rear of the car, one facing forward. Then I will weld the two t3 flanges from the manifolds together using bar stock or something, to effectively make one manifold, or something that comes off as one piece basically. The smaller compressor will feed the larger one. It would be a parallel compound compressor setup like on small diesels. Weather it makes sense or not, I'm going to have both turbos installed. This is for popping of the hood factor. I don't care how fast it is, just how rediculous.[/QUOTE] Twin turbo /6 sounds awesome. Are you going to be running the 2.2/2.5 turbo pistons in it? [url]http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/slant-six-turbo.html[/url]

[QUOTE=Lerlth;49608232]Twin turbo /6 sounds awesome. Are you going to be running the 2.2/2.5 turbo pistons in it? [url]http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/slant-six-turbo.html[/url][/QUOTE] I'm most likely going for forged weiseco pistons. The 2.2/2.5 pistons are for a different rod setup than what's in there.

[QUOTE=Cinnamonbun;49606648]So I noticed when I floor the gas pedal on my car, that if you push it a little harder in I can feel a click. What is that for? This is in a E90 BMW by the way, because I can gas it without feeling a click, but if I completely push it down and then push it even harder I feel that click. Can anyone explain what that little "button" does?[/QUOTE] That clicking thing is your kickdown switch. In BMWs and Mercedes cars it is used to override the transmission shift mapping to force downshift the transmission to a lower gear. The switches have a built in resistance to being pressed to allow drivers to hold the pedal to the floor but not kickdown. The switch is mounted on the bulkhead behind the gas pedal and is activated by the arm that connects the top of the pedal to the actual throttle control striking it. And yes BMWs and Benzes still have physical switches in the cars.

[QUOTE=t-man;49601897]Making new emblems out of brass for the front and back of my vette. They're pretty much the same, except the back one is straight across and the front has a slight bend to it. [t]https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/886793_950442088336916_1965925281491562994_o.jpg[/t] [t]https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12541143_950442095003582_3536134946136041893_n.jpg?oh=287d6b21fb17f48917133a9f4c710d14&oe=573E6C31[/t][/QUOTE] neat, how are you making them? I did a little lost wax brass casting a while ago and it was fun as hell. super happy with the result [t]https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8757/17079284776_f56b49a6ba_o.jpg[/t] that was when i first painted it, i've since finished it fully, filed off the tapping and all that stuff. Recently repainted it too

Who likes my custom towing mirrors? [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/mHjPU52.jpg[/IMG] [QUOTE=Serj22;49607981]So, I kinda decided what I want to do with the new slant. So I have 2 turbos. Both have a t3 exhaust housing. One is a t3/t4, the other a t3/t3 so in theory both create the same backpressure. I will have two exhaust flanges, seen here: [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slant-6-Six-Dodge-Plymouth-Mopar-225-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-Flanges-1-2-thick-/321964095901?hash=item4af68e399d:m:meZyChzjxHK5j630Y6vGB7w&vxp=mtr"]ebay[/URL] Each flange is for the exhaust of 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 respectively. I'd like to have one header going down and turning forward to the t3/t4 turbo, and the other going down and turning back to a t3/t4 turbo. Both exhaust outlets pointing down, but one facing the rear of the car, one facing forward. Then I will weld the two t3 flanges from the manifolds together using bar stock or something, to effectively make one manifold, or something that comes off as one piece basically. The smaller compressor will feed the larger one. It would be a parallel compound compressor setup like on small diesels. Weather it makes sense or not, I'm going to have both turbos installed. This is for popping of the hood factor. I don't care how fast it is, just how rediculous. I want mopar guys at car shows to get REALLY mad and tell me I shoulda just bought one der dem threesixtays.[/QUOTE] Youre going to have more turbo than engine in that thing. Seriously just hook up an output shaft from one of those turbos and run that straight into the transmission. The motor can act as an air pump for your turbo-powered car.

[QUOTE=Trilby Harlow;49608846]neat, how are you making them? I did a little lost wax brass casting a while ago and it was fun as hell. super happy with the result [t]https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8757/17079284776_f56b49a6ba_o.jpg[/t] that was when i first painted it, i've since finished it fully, filed off the tapping and all that stuff. Recently repainted it too[/QUOTE] I recognize that number. That's the T1, isn't it?

[QUOTE=Serj22;49607981]So, I kinda decided what I want to do with the new slant. So I have 2 turbos. Both have a t3 exhaust housing. One is a t3/t4, the other a t3/t3 so in theory both create the same backpressure. I will have two exhaust flanges, seen here: [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slant-6-Six-Dodge-Plymouth-Mopar-225-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-Flanges-1-2-thick-/321964095901?hash=item4af68e399d:m:meZyChzjxHK5j630Y6vGB7w&vxp=mtr"]ebay[/URL] Each flange is for the exhaust of 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 respectively. I'd like to have one header going down and turning forward to the t3/t4 turbo, and the other going down and turning back to a t3/t4 turbo. Both exhaust outlets pointing down, but one facing the rear of the car, one facing forward. Then I will weld the two t3 flanges from the manifolds together using bar stock or something, to effectively make one manifold, or something that comes off as one piece basically. The smaller compressor will feed the larger one. It would be a parallel compound compressor setup like on small diesels. Weather it makes sense or not, I'm going to have both turbos installed. This is for popping of the hood factor. I don't care how fast it is, just how rediculous. I want mopar guys at car shows to get REALLY mad and tell me I shoulda just bought one der dem threesixtays.[/QUOTE] Ye shoulda just bought wunna dem dere fofowtybigblocks Really though, why not run a dedicated compound set up, have Manifold->smaller turbo->bigger turbo->intercooler That way the small one lights fast, and uses the boost from that to light the second one. (Unless thats sooooorta what you're going for?) For the spare slant you should look into porting the head out, you'll see probably pretty decent gains from there, then I'd move on to basic fabricated intake and exhaust manifolds since they flow like just like everything else on the slant, dogshit.

[t]http://puu.sh/mKcYN/9c5a146d72.jpg[/t] this car is useless in the snow useless in the best way though

My friend had a 740 with a locking diff, it was pretty amazing in the snow

[QUOTE=Del91;49608207]Speaking of which, my brothers DSMs tranny went tits up. He's gonna buy his buddies suburban with a summit racing crate motor in it and retire his eclipse from DD duty.[/QUOTE] How's the summit creates anyway? I am about to pull the trigger on a blue print crate. #420HP

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49608985]Who likes my custom towing mirrors? [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/mHjPU52.jpg[/IMG] Youre going to have more turbo than engine in that thing. Seriously just hook up an output shaft from one of those turbos and run that straight into the transmission. The motor can act as an air pump for your turbo-powered car.[/QUOTE] I like your thinking. So you're saying it should have 3 turbos? [QUOTE=Valon Kyre;49609845]Ye shoulda just bought wunna dem dere fofowtybigblocks Really though, why not run a dedicated compound set up, have Manifold->smaller turbo->bigger turbo->intercooler That way the small one lights fast, and uses the boost from that to light the second one. (Unless thats sooooorta what you're going for?) For the spare slant you should look into porting the head out, you'll see probably pretty decent gains from there, then I'd move on to basic fabricated intake and exhaust manifolds since they flow like just like everything else on the slant, dogshit.[/QUOTE] That is what I'm going for. I'm going to re-use the already ported head off the '68 block with brand new valves, etc... already ready to go. The exhaust manifold is going to be custom fabricated off those flanges with 1 5/8" pipe off each cylinder, which is already way more than stock manifold. For intake I haven't decided yet. The turbo kinda fixes the shitty flow of the intake.

[QUOTE=Serj22;49610681]I like your thinking. So you're saying it should have 3 turbos? That is what I'm going for. I'm going to re-use the already ported head off the '68 block with brand new valves, etc... already ready to go. The exhaust manifold is going to be custom fabricated off those flanges with 1 5/8" pipe off each cylinder, which is already way more than stock manifold. For intake I haven't decided yet. The turbo kinda fixes the shitty flow of the intake.[/QUOTE] Man, I want to hang out with you just so I can watch you do this crazy shit with your Slant. You seriously do things nobody else does, it's awesome.

I need an air conditioning expert to tell me if this will work or if im being dumb. I was looking through options for replacing the 120v dorm fridge in my camper with something I can use camping without needing hook ups. I dont really wanna get a propane fridge because new ones are expensive and old used ones are inneficient fire hazards. I found some nice super efficient 12v compressor fridges, but they cost more than the whole camper. Next thing, bam, idea comes charging into my head. Why not take a r134a dorm fridge, remove the compressor, and replace it with a r134a car a/c compressor? Then I could power it with anything from a brushless dc motor to a small ohv engine, to a flippin excersise bike. And it could probably be done with nothing but junkyard parts and a few cans of coolant. Obviously id have to rig up a thermostat for the motor, and pull starting a briggs and stratton 30 times a day wouldnt be very convenient, but it would be miles more efficient than running a 120v inverter or *shudder* a thermal 12v/propane fridge.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;49610392]How's the summit creates anyway? I am about to pull the trigger on a blue print crate. #420HP[/QUOTE] I dont really know haha ive ridden in it but it's a big ass suburban. It runs good though.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49611423]I need an air conditioning expert to tell me if this will work or if im being dumb. I was looking through options for replacing the 120v dorm fridge in my camper with something I can use camping without needing hook ups. I dont really wanna get a propane fridge because new ones are expensive and old used ones are inneficient fire hazards. I found some nice super efficient 12v compressor fridges, but they cost more than the whole camper. Next thing, bam, idea comes charging into my head. Why not take a r134a dorm fridge, remove the compressor, and replace it with a r134a car a/c compressor? Then I could power it with anything from a brushless dc motor to a small ohv engine, to a flippin excersise bike. And it could probably be done with nothing but junkyard parts and a few cans of coolant. Obviously id have to rig up a thermostat for the motor, and pull starting a briggs and stratton 30 times a day wouldnt be very convenient, but it would be miles more efficient than running a 120v inverter or *shudder* a thermal 12v/propane fridge.[/QUOTE] I don't think that is the easiest or wisest solution. Trying to find a way to drive the belt would be really difficult, and you'd have to run all the lines for the condenser and find a way to charge the system with fresh freon. Were I you, I'd just run a really small 120v fridge with an inverter. It'll suck a bit of juice from your generator but it's really the safest, most efficient solution you have in your situation.

I dont have a generator. I was hoping to be able to have so little draw that an hour or two of driving a day, along with a couple of solar panels could keep the deep cycle battery charged. maybe I should just drop $500 on one of these: [url]http://www.truckfridge.com[/url]

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49611680]I dont have a generator. I was hoping to be able to have so little draw that an hour or two of driving a day, along with a couple of solar panels could keep the deep cycle battery charged. maybe I should just drop $500 on one of these: [url]http://www.truckfridge.com[/url][/QUOTE] Well then an automotive class A/C compressor is [I]not[/I] the way to go. They're not low power in the slightest. There's a reason that in most vehicles there is a noticeable impact on MPG when running it. I would be [I]astounded[/I] if you could run one off of a deep cycle battery alone for any more than an hour.

[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;49611805]Well then an automotive class A/C compressor is [I]not[/I] the way to go. They're not low power in the slightest. There's a reason that in most vehicles there is a noticeable impact on MPG when running it. I would be [I]astounded[/I] if you could run one off of a deep cycle battery alone for any more than an hour.[/QUOTE] Yep. Sorry Bird, you're being unrealistic in your expectations. Refrigerators are EXTREMELY high draw, that's all there is to it. And you have to think about just how much an auto compressor draws... it takes a belt driven from an engine with at least 80+hp just to run efficiently.

yeah, from more extended resaerch, it looks like even with expensive 12v fridges, it takes a massive battery bank and buttloads of solar panels, or a generator to keep them running more than 2 days. Now im wondering if I should just find a really really good cooler and replace the fridge with a big sliding drawer thing to hold the cooler, then plug up the vents and insulate the fridge compartment, and it can be more storage. How long can a really good quality cooler keep stuff cold? Provided its out of the sun and not opened too often ofc.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49611935] How long can a really good quality cooler keep stuff cold? Provided its out of the sun and not opened too often ofc.[/QUOTE] I've seen cheapish drink containers that keep cold for 12+ hours. But those are small and double walled vacuum insulated stainless steel. As for full sized? No idea in the slightest. [editline]26th January 2016[/editline] My family rigged a plastic cooler to keep ice cream frozen for 48 hours on a single batch of dry ice. Got so cold the thermometer we rigged to it cracked.

looks like in the high end to medium high range, they can keep ice for 4-7 days depending on things like temp, ice/food ratio, and blocks vs cubes. Assuming I can get a heavy duty drawer assambly in there with enough space for the cooler, this is gonna be sweet.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49612113]looks like in the high end to medium high range, they can keep ice for 4-7 days depending on things like temp, ice/food ratio, and blocks vs cubes. Assuming I can get a heavy duty drawer assambly in there with enough space for the cooler, this is gonna be sweet.[/QUOTE] Get a Yeti......

[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;49612272]Get a Yeti......[/QUOTE] that was my first thought, but after reading some reviews and comparison tests, it looks like the 70 liter coleman extreme 5 comes very close to yeti performance, but 50$ rather than 400$.

[QUOTE=Birdman101;49612295]that was my first thought, but after reading some reviews and comparison tests, it looks like the 70 liter coleman extreme 5 comes very close to yeti performance, but 50$ rather than 400$.[/QUOTE] I live in an area where we abuse the ever living fuck out of our ice chests. From someone who has both: The yeti is more durable and really does perform better. It also lasts much longer. The Coleman Extreme 5 is not a bad one at all, don't get me wrong. But the yetis ARE a better quality and will last much longer. Although you probably won't be beating yours up too much, so the Coleman Extreme 5 should do well.

[QUOTE=Trekintosh;49609225]I recognize that number. That's the T1, isn't it?[/QUOTE] yup. This might be official merch sometime, just gotta find a cheap source for batch castings and finishing

[QUOTE=Silence I Kill You;49612458]I live in an area where we abuse the ever living fuck out of our ice chests. From someone who has both: The yeti is more durable and really does perform better. It also lasts much longer. The Coleman Extreme 5 is not a bad one at all, don't get me wrong. But the yetis ARE a better quality and will last much longer. Although you probably won't be beating yours up too much, so the Coleman Extreme 5 should do well.[/QUOTE] Im so muscular I keep breaking the latches on the yeti.