Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby
5,001 replies, posted
I like that OEM headlight assemblies for my car are $160-200 apiece, but I can get a set of two decent aftermarkets for $130. Guess I'm rice now.
I really need to get my classic already. I'm tired of looking like I vape and attend high school parties at 21.
[QUOTE=Raygen;50560095]Dude that's exciting as hell. I'd love a summer project like that.
You wound up plumping for the plum crazy?[/QUOTE]
I may have. Or I may have bought the blue setup. Time will tell.
[editline]21st June 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=FordLord;50559838]Looking at an '06 Outback today.
It's listed for $3700, books for $3200.
Here's my question;
It's a used car dealership that likely has 0 maintenance records.
Is it valid to talk a dealership down based on maintenance it needs, that isn't apparent?
IE timing belt + water pump, a $1000 job.
I also hate the tires that it has, but if they have good tread, I won't whine about it.
What about if i plug in my scan tool, to find that someone recently reset the ECU and none of the sensors are set in? So if the cat is bad, it has not been run enough to set a code for it? Valid to talk them down due to taking a risk?[/QUOTE]
Used car dealerships have a crappy mechanic ready to jb weld the brakes back together if need be. They could give a crap what service it needs or if it's covered in dents. You will pay taxes and fees when you leave with your likely piece of crap car as well. They got it from an auction for probably $500 and replaced the radiator or something for $150. So they want that money back plus whatever they wanna inflate it to. Your better off buying the car from auction yourself.
[QUOTE=Serj22;50560826]I may have. Or I may have bought the blue setup. Time will tell.
[editline]21st June 2016[/editline]
Used car dealerships have a crappy mechanic ready to jb weld the brakes back together if need be. They could give a crap what service it needs or if it's covered in dents. You will pay taxes and fees when you leave with your likely piece of crap car as well. They got it from an auction for probably $500 and replaced the radiator or something for $150. So they want that money back plus whatever they wanna inflate it to. Your better off buying the car from auction yourself.[/QUOTE]
This one, I think, was a trade in. Body, spotless, interior, spotless. Only issues would be mechanical. The dealership itself has pretty good reviews. I research the auto dealers, and avoid ones with no feedback, or obvious fake feedback.
I plan on checking it out in about 2 hours, seeing what's up with it. Don't know if they'll allow me to test drive due to being under 25, but should be allowed to hear it run at least.
Auctions here are mostly dealers only. If not, they are flooded and good cars go for high prices.
Serj are you going with a full spray on the car or a roller job? I missed it if you mentioned that. Excited to find out.
You aint kidding about the price, DP. A universal kit from KwikWire, etc is like.. $300.This Painless Mustang specific something around the tune of $800 or so. Honestly it's not MUCH different than a universal kit except everything is color coded to the Mustang, the wires are terminated at about the correct length, and there's a very good instruction booklet with it that makes it a walk in the park. I'll take the ease for the cost, though. Especially since it's not my money :v:
You better ask when the last time the plugs were changed. And if they hadn't for a while try to get them changed as part of the deal
[QUOTE=clutch2;50561599]Serj are you going with a full spray on the car or a roller job? I missed it if you mentioned that. Excited to find out.
[/QUOTE]
Full trim removal, sand, blocking, and spray.
I washed the suburban. Has not had a bath since sometime in Aug/September. I just need to drain the oil (It is full of gas), change out the 4X4 Actuator (Expensive fucker) and finish up my rear fuel pump hatch. Then she will be ready to sit for another year! Wooo!
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/Owned%20Vehicles/94%20Chevy%20Suburban/20160621_170102.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;50559436]My problem with Plum Crazy is it feels like every Mopar guy does Plum Crazy. But I can't think of the last time I've seen a blue and white Dodge.[/QUOTE]
My dad's 71 Barracuda is (will be) B5 Blue with white billboards.
It'll be crazy sharp
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;50552993]I like the blacked out/murdered out look on Darts. Out of your options I think plum crazy is the best, it's a classic Mopar color and will make the lines pop. If you wanna change the look I wouldn't bother with turbine bronze.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/0J9nLqZ.jpg[/img]
This looks sinister as hell, but I dunno if the turbo slant makes the right sound for that look.[/QUOTE]
Is that Dart Vader?
[t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jQygzDbf73icdcqb_gP69DQwLyTluF4C9g1T_aQ74ATnw-jOMZMq2rHqkm1Rz4E6ws7sT1kBF-M3QINSoELxxogE2UKSKGyySlxAUuu_SZrzSCLg9huvbVt_F0-At6m9phVMNWu-04owqU-h8dFRHF-FPSuHfnQ_aau9kDNL9M_7yHTMynkSa9O8cWvIyTAk_OQgnxuMBj6bKWBsMrXlvDhVQ_ZsT_DL588ND1m2KZupS8ReOIWSM8-NMvPsQx45Iipi1gvOmzJhAF2sMViimX35GBSRqXD74xy-61ywxh-0KsEZ2DZ10wOtW3rqMNHYNAw0TrETDiGxOc9MBNfmzDF6mVoc8ySGat82s_rvJB_P4UomcjwEI0tO46tlmTO6qraISRpiJqkM98BPcpmAt27A-8OKZsUsgA7U19oO1EXjOgzHnAttslVQ5Lld0qspu94HsCL97NruueBUycb_1iCfy_n6QpL-QCENdQPLTTSxeQXk-1gKhIfVWqbEqAl_Uv7uTzZdBMC117vknMThxE7zTpvBEC23DnMBRnZJZHfcDmG299oWPYs683IfAv3HGguxd3TwXR1vRSxWBdlKT00Yyn_M8w5V=w1329-h985-no[/t]
1pm local time.. just buttoned up the Mustang wiring. What a marathon.. I've got something like 22 hours into in in the last 2 days, but I think that's pretty good to completely rewire a car! I was real picky with the A E S T H E T I C too!
So now I really want to take it for a cruise, or something. But the fucking thing runs like garbage officially. It was getting progressively worse the more I drove it the other day before I started on the project, and it officially is barely able to drive out of the driveway. The carb is just pouring gas into it, and if you hold the idle up it'll idle fairly happily, but trying to actually drive it is like juggling chainsaws. Lots of shifting into neutral to keep the revs up then slamming it into drive and mashing the pedal to go almost nowhere.
That's tomorrow's problem, though. I don't have much carb knowledge, but I've got the car all week and would like to drive it around a bit to verify everything is operating happily, so in we go. The owner said he always has to adjust the float and it keeps going out of adjustment, so I guess there's a starting point. Yeeha.
I made some weebums of my cars!
[vid]https://my.mixtape.moe/mkshpy.webm[/vid]
MR2 reasonably hard acceleration
[vid]https://my.mixtape.moe/xtaxdn.webm[/vid]
Cold starting the Camaro
[vid]https://my.mixtape.moe/nrpkcp.webm[/vid]
Easy acceleration in the Camaro, I strangely love how it sounds like an old truck :v: [sp]I mean, it should, it has a '73 blazer engine in it[/sp]
[vid]https://my.mixtape.moe/gujhfe.webm[/vid]
Gassing it in the Camaro, all that unburnt fuel when I let off. No wonder she smells so rich.
[vid]https://my.mixtape.moe/spotdz.webm[/vid]
And here's why I will never record the MR2 without the waterproof camera case to deaden sound as long as it has the fart can on it :v:
Finally dusted up a set of stock sidepods/sideskirts for my Supe. So I will be able to get rid of the hideous Bomex sideskirt and get it back to looking stock.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/YpVbvh2.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/UgiidA5.jpg[/t]
From this:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/ofRFlA4.jpg[/t]
To this (just the side skirts):
[t]http://i.imgur.com/xRCEhlv.png[/t]
[QUOTE=Raygen;50560293]Awesome! 2.8 six-in-line?[/QUOTE]
Yup! :D It's called the M130.980, same engine used in those old 1960's Pagoda SL's. The only issue I have is that damn mechanical fuel injection. Complete and utter nightmare. Tried working on it myself, which was a terrible idea, so now I'll have to drive it at 65 km/h (that's 39 mph) covering a distance of 219 km in order to get to the specialist. Lovely.
Here's a picture of the engine bay.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Fr3npaE.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Jackpody;50567038]Yup! :D It's called the M130.980, same engine used in those old 1960's Pagoda SL's. The only issue I have is that damn mechanical fuel injection. Complete and utter nightmare. Tried working on it myself, which was a terrible idea, so now I'll have to drive it at 65 km/h (that's 39 mph) covering a distance of 219 km in order to get to the specialist. Lovely.
Here's a picture of the engine bay.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Fr3npaE.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Nice! I've come to love that six-in-line sound, completely addicting.
So what's up with that mechanical fuel injection system? Does it take specialist knowledge / special tools to adjust or calibrate it correctly? Or, how did you fuck it up :v:
[QUOTE=Raygen;50570026]Nice! I've come to love that six-in-line sound, completely addicting.
So what's up with that mechanical fuel injection system? Does it take specialist knowledge / special tools to adjust or calibrate it correctly? Or, how did you fuck it up :v:[/QUOTE]
It takes a special man and special tools with special knowlage to work on ANY mechanical fuel injection.
[QUOTE=clutch2;50565497]1pm local time.. just buttoned up the Mustang wiring. What a marathon.. I've got something like 22 hours into in in the last 2 days, but I think that's pretty good to completely rewire a car! I was real picky with the A E S T H E T I C too!
So now I really want to take it for a cruise, or something. But the fucking thing runs like garbage officially. It was getting progressively worse the more I drove it the other day before I started on the project, and it officially is barely able to drive out of the driveway. The carb is just pouring gas into it, and if you hold the idle up it'll idle fairly happily, but trying to actually drive it is like juggling chainsaws. Lots of shifting into neutral to keep the revs up then slamming it into drive and mashing the pedal to go almost nowhere.
That's tomorrow's problem, though. I don't have much carb knowledge, but I've got the car all week and would like to drive it around a bit to verify everything is operating happily, so in we go. The owner said he always has to adjust the float and it keeps going out of adjustment, so I guess there's a starting point. Yeeha.[/QUOTE]
You can put the carb in a box and ship it to me and I'll handle it for ya. Sometimes float adjustments don't stay because the float is leaking and filling with gas, or it's crushed a little, or the needle and seat is not actually functional - or fuel pressure is too high, or there's not enough fuel pressure, or the jets are clogged. There's a few things to look at. But I can rebuild and adjust if need be.
Updates with my car situation as of now: Volvo swede mobile has failed, transmission started to slip so I traded it to a dealership and 500 bucks for a 2003 Saturn Ion with the 2.2l I4 5speed, I've been working 12 hour shifts 5 days a week so I now have 5 grand to throw at something fun. I really really want to do a chevy s10/gmc sonoma autocross truck and/or sleeper. There are tons around here, I love the idea of making a muscle mini truck. Since I have my saturn I can use that to get back and forth to work while I do things to the truck. Short term plans(after purchase-1year owning): Coil overs and tune the suspension, LSD, good tires and wheels (american racing steelies), tune, engine rebuild, turbo(?), exhaust not in that order
Long term, LS swap because meme, Camaro transmission, rollcage out to the bed to hold the frame together and a bed cap to hide it. Tell me if i'm stupid
[QUOTE=DPKiller;50570152]It takes a special man and special tools with special knowlage to work on ANY mechanical fuel injection.[/QUOTE]
I disagree. A troglodyte with an allen wrench and a computer that can access youtube can turn up the pump on a 6.9/7.3 IDI.
I guess thats not really [I]servicing[/I], but meh.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;50571535]I disagree. A troglodyte with an allen wrench and a computer that can access youtube can turn up the pump on a 6.9/7.3 IDI.
I guess thats not really [I]servicing[/I], but meh.[/QUOTE]
Fuel quantity screw doesn't count, I know people who are so dumb they can't even use a computer who's figured them out.
[QUOTE=Raygen;50570026]Nice! I've come to love that six-in-line sound, completely addicting.
So what's up with that mechanical fuel injection system? Does it take specialist knowledge / special tools to adjust or calibrate it correctly? Or, how did you fuck it up :v:[/QUOTE]
Heh. I've always had issues with the injection system. A few years ago (say pre 2015), I was never able to cold start the engine properly because of a fuel management issue. Thing got way too much fuel on cold starts so it ran on a random 3-4 cylinders until it hit around 60 degrees celsius on the gauge (sounded a bit like it had some proper cams on it, was hilarious). Had to keep the throttle halfway down until it was hot, else it'd stall.
Then one day it just stopped working. Would crank but not fire, so here's a video of that:
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDXxQr0phWM[/media]
Apparently, the injection pump fuel management system had shit itself so much the rod inside the pump controlling the fuel flow had sheered into two pieces. Was welded back together and now it cold starts just fine, runs on all 6 cylinders but stalls after 5 minutes (and then you have to keep the throttle halfway down again until hot!).
Takes specialist knowledge to tune them. No one REALLY knows how they work, but some people know more about them than other. Here's a picture of how the pump looks inside, it's really fascinating!
[t]http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eurotec/2009-11-23_015839_injection_pump_cutaway_280_sl.PNG[/t]
Can't wait until it works as intended.
[url]http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/5638601352.html[/url]
Right when I decided I'd never find one of these for $1500 and dumped my savings into my current car. A 2 door 69 Fury is literally my dream car and I could've bought this one last month. :suicide:
I've heard quite a bit about these. There has to be a reason more people don't use 5-4 lug adapters or vice versa.
[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/191271759874-0-1/s-l1000.jpg[/IMG]
Their reputation is disputed, but some people say it can just fine as long as you aren't putting down 500whp.
I've heard they add a tonne of stress to your lugs as well.
What is the consensus here?
[QUOTE=Ridley;50574887]
I've heard they add a tonne of stress to your lugs as well.
What is the consensus here?[/QUOTE]
It's all about how comfortable you feel with a small depth bolt holding the wheels on your car. The studs for lug nuts on your car are a lot better, and it's adding a not as strong part to it. You're better off finding a 5 lug disc or drum to add to the car.
In sports news, I bought a set of door poppers, and the door handles are going bye bye on the Dart.
Who was it in here who was fixing up that vw beetle and put the dual solex carbs on it? I gotta ask him what model carbs those were. Ive got a set of them in storage somewhere and if these damn goldwing carbs dont start playing nice, im gonna build me a single carb manifold and mount one of those on it. Now while iijm bored at work is the perfect time for research.
I just got this
[t]http://puu.sh/pDtwi.jpg[/t]
[sp]I'm serious[/sp]
That feeling when you wake up in the middle of the night to the sound of rain.
Then you remember you left your windows rolled down.
[QUOTE=Ridley;50574887]I've heard quite a bit about these. There has to be a reason more people don't use 5-4 lug adapters or vice versa.
~pic~
Their reputation is disputed, but some people say it can just fine as long as you aren't putting down 500whp.
I've heard they add a tonne of stress to your lugs as well.
What is the consensus here?[/QUOTE]
Those would not be a good idea because most of the cars weight is held on the lip on the hub that fits into the rim, without the lip ALL the weight is on the lugs and they are only meant to hold the wheel to the hub, not support the car or trucks weight.
There are those adapters that have that lip and are a fair amount safer, Dart King is right as far as just getting the bits to make it five lug. If the rim is too far off center it puts massive strain on the hub, lugs and rim.
I'm not sure about lug studs Vs lug bolts, both seem like they wouldn't work well considering the room you have.
Also consider in most aluminum rims there is a certain depth between where the lug seats and where the rims seats to the rotor/drum, if thats too thin the adapter may fail and you'd lose a wheel outright.
so turns out i fixed my rear view mirror problem
got a 15 dollar rear view mirror at autozone that actually has range of motion
now i can see to the right
[QUOTE=Dark Descent;50558944]How do you get involved in autocross? Do I have to like join a club and pay fees? Do any of you guys do autocross or race around Orlando?[/QUOTE]
Sorry I didn't reply back to you.
You just need to find a club that does them; I found one by just googling "[my state] autocross" but you can also find them on the SCCA website.
At that point, you classify your car according to the rules, register for the event, pay the fee and an SCCA membership (one weekend memberships cost $10, or an annual one is $81) and go race!
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