Automotive Addicts Lounge V4 - Lube my pistons, baby - General

Yeah it'll drop right in to replace the old headlight modules, the plugs for the bulbs are the same. I was just gonna replace the bulbs but both of the original ones are cracked/faded/fogged/shitty in general since the prior owner had a propensity for bumping into things. As far as I can tell the halos are totally separate, I'm not gonna bother wiring them up since I don't want to look like a ricer any more than I have to

[QUOTE=Code3Response;50600623]Sounding like my AC compressor (clutch) is about to grenade itself. I knew it was worn, but holy shit did it get bad today.[/QUOTE] Further investigated it. Not the AC compressor, but the heat shield on the catalytic converter. Although having the AC on made the rattle worse. People online offered these solutions: re-weld it, remove it, or put hose clamps on it. Basically none were options for me. So I put electric fence wire around it to stop the rattle. Would have used bailing wire, but we threw that out last week after years of sitting since we didnt think we'd ever use it for anything. [t]https://i.imgur.com/ZdKORaT.jpg[/t]

When you need a truck but all you have is a muscle sedan. [t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EqSnXQ9gU1TXb2rFnPJb8A18vJu23p1v1thbRHthQWYEAwz6uHb2vBKaNA0G3dSu1Th3VbwH0fN1FTObv2QfNQDXJ3KyJLK9XxJiqv8dvgGTgtHTIKIdIwjKbzPuFNc_FG-c_U8BGuReWvrhAW-IOT8t-vy-E8w25FiaGNeFn3SPPmCOpRWPmx9ia9iIbb__GUxSU8fZPVEM0eZeIdCwVL49KSz7Uph3G5csldEPNkXu9mMOuiCZnCbLK2zl8_ImJku_pCy2ZZmjTR73EOZRV1qfuwyt-J-x9gCd2BeF02h0UFUrYbEkXVuZs9BrigLlkBZz_ztqHzWtBQA0LVmByKJwjpu0fJn_KUw8wTZPs6v-qs-vj6hpYwoLyGi1bmaGQQY4-JywkE51nZAtnd2qCxNqk2KQE9NEs8_aRozifFEpZaOchscpSICjIfb2Tlc4gm_bPBDU3quchjIw-nzmXk2nghpj5jMubWU8bGLSle51XJElWByGPm2CL3Ozq0wN9Z0JyKPFMt6H5OAU5r2QybNygHnLb2VgUUPWbdtbO7HZerAbNvg7QgNTxmZfpGEULsBMEZ1evNg0NvULjh0z8_wx0vHbMo9o=w1329-h985-no[/t] [t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2iyRDaHieHn7QTxIFk81HBhcWB0vNY23eMaYnDweYRuPD1u-8ev4OlbF7Becedt_GakYxaejBGOShsf8ngRDTQIP--M899vi3R-EMhdtT07qj-C09FDucvMUQawjGSTVtn3MLbFh60olJh9onz6_S0CsYH_h5nH-aNq42qex32WfrHne6FwWghJgY7tFyA9dC2HyHyDmSZt5z_YVuE1Py9FYoJYIL-RT7mi4kQWecPVFxo3k5PbD4CrmvFrXwpy1she7EMDcNi32qoJO1CkXt4PPRGcj-7OKzwdh5rrG0OFKTq5pRZlt6fTho8WPLy0O-MeiB2O9j38t6MrCl0DDfFl2NNRQ40qDBBxK0uR7_DtzG-8nvEaWUOXCdH0c6mWZfR9ophdiWXFILrsI3t7XNuaN34syiOta73r4MsBSpz96YZBTk1fxmmz0epHFsDmd4ALuC5209u2m0-s7lIOvJf8qJ9vtpiDXmV3lW5OsiDbdY2BPrNd9lF3mpFM3wEJZto_-tT4iip8kAtYGxNvcqdDH8dkm1VFFGIFczPuzJJ2bhbdlayMfzGh8YV_TjAGKDDrr-5O05P3n7vo7BZuUeLOVdZ2ZJ4NX=w1329-h985-no[/t] Got my block and crank cleaned. [t]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j3NlYRIH0CJWAaujZAK28OIbuAa3S1GLw4ocLi_7MW5XabPizvUhdCtbDp0G01VTkmRj-jMLf0EhGqE0lLenjGerN03JT1P-Ch4_4LzwPh7UHENEWgxfCCvkkvPVwPtQJVhjTKjjgMkm7lhRsvj2fymHrHr0qTfH_6g9OJCAl1V-jrHobQB1HBfvHmaO-t8Hhdms4wJTdGdOG6lQBLzN31xR7TI0p_yPett1Nq6o_Dx3Tzkktyq93qPtWaK7Aidoizdu7GeD-0D25YneBRMnQGSJ4nirbRBATujz4MmedfdOXYA4JeBxNGYQ9l79kJ-1CFyXfkg74XNfvGNSAtyz4xqL9aUdD3Fhv0k5tpr6ZEObk4yN3ZtVwu7t5RDCU2jv8VSvZle4l5oZdErvyZApZMSHKqpbKHBnERdTbzhaBIBjIREPQ4HHkRb7T91DozKoCs27ICC5a_6TKqlW3l1yIlVW6hKgFfLvqJGn3RPc3WQOZNLJO0YJXPzmts60Idc-oUT4I1eOQdJFwOp0eNAqKp-xWFFVJSdUATNNuOYdBW1cYro2NXCWXgWusNEd4ovuZsopfjHnT5vmry2-UG-l_ZRmYTmgELau=w731-h985-no[/t]

Should I be worried about burning through my paint with a dual action polisher? The mr2 has single stage paint and the amount of color transferring to the foam pads is kinda worrying me. I just really wanna get the bulk of the swirls and scratches out and maybe get the bumpers looking red instead of that oxidized pink.

Single stage paint WILL transfer color, there's no clearcoat to polish off when buffing. Buffing takes off very, very minute amounts of paint (or clear), though, and you shouldn't worry much about it unless the car's been buffed a ton before or you're going crazy on it. That in mind, you will burn through if you hold it in one place. With a dual action it's not as dangerous as a rotary, but do keep the machine moving at all times. You can check the paint's thickness with a gauge, too. Not sure how good the cheap ones are; [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Paint-Coat-Enamel-Thickness-Gauge-Tester-Auto-Body-Repair-Detail-Coat-Meter-/351470171875[/url]

Clutch would be proud. I have never installed a door popper setup and I got it to fire on my first test of the remote. Tomorrow I'll take this handle off, and then setup the other side. The module is wired and all setup, I just only had time to run one door and mount it. The other side should be quick. The rear doors already have their handles shaved. The 85lb spring pushes the door out pretty far too as you can see. The module and everything i set up on a board I cut out to fit in the back corner of the trunk so everything was a bit neat and organized right in front of the battery. I'll reroute the rear part of the battery cable with longer wire to tuck it better eventually. But all the speaker wiring, fuel pump, everything is going to be rerouted since it was initially all wired up to the front of the car - then I just redirected it back. So now it' all getting run direct to the trunk with another board on the opposite side with fuses and everything - much easier to get to than under the dash. I left the handle on till I was sure it worked so I could get the door open, but it all went fine. I may put a cable down through the bottom of the door hold it there somehow so in the event of battery failure or something i can pull the wire down to open the door. They give you some buttons in the kit to divert 12v through a relay to open the door with a button, which I was thinking of mounting in the trunk, but that doesn't help if the battery dies, just if the remote dies. [video=youtube;aGBHJ9GIVXA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGBHJ9GIVXA[/video]

Nice!! I have my button on the bottom of my car, waaay underneath. Pops the passenger door which is a PITA because I didn't install actually spring loaded pistons, so I have to pull on my doors while popping them. Quite a juggling act reaching way under the car, LOL. For the issue of dead car batteries, find a way to open your hood from outside the car, if possible. Otherwise if you have an amp/sub (AKA big power wire to the trunk) give yourself a lug in the trunk you can clamp jumper cables onto, then pop the door, then proceed to pop the hood and jump the car normally.

I like the splash of chrome provided by door handles on older cars. Plus, nothing beats the feel of those doors the way they came from the factory. I'd probably leave mine.

The battery is in the trunk so no issue there. I was thinking of running a cable down the inner door handle and up under the hood and then disguise it as a piece of wire going to something. Then reach in and pull it so the door pops open. [editline]28th June 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=Grenadiac;50608831]I like the splash of chrome provided by door handles on older cars. Plus, nothing beats the feel of those doors the way they came from the factory. I'd probably leave mine.[/QUOTE] Till you see what happens when these afterthoughts of a door handle accidentally get pushed on it dents the door in. Also I'm going minimalist chrome. One of the features people tend not to like about 4 doors Is all the handles.

Got a problem with a car, and thought I should ask here for my dad. We've got a 2004 Ford Focus SE that we bought from one of my uncles. Cleaned it up, and got it working recently. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor, new plugs, wires, coil pack. It ran really well for a few weeks, then a few days ago, it started to have trouble starting. Would crank/turn over, but wouldn't start until after a five or six tries. This morning, it didn't start at all. It'll still crank/turn over, but otherwise won't do anything. Any idea what it is? We've checked everything we replaced, and are pretty much stumped.

speaking of batteries in the trunk how likely to die am I if I put a battery and a fuel cell in the trunk? is it just a matter of venting everything separately to the atmosphere? I know drag racers do it all the time but I don't know if these are people who race at sanctioned tracks or not

I have a golf cart that I'm trying to sell, but I have no idea how to price it. It's a 1995 (I think) Columbia ParCar, gas engine, has a roof and windshield. It also has a basket and a thing to hold your golf club bag on the back. I can get pictures tomorrow. Any help with getting a price on it would be appreciated.

[QUOTE=Infab;50608881]Got a problem with a car, and thought I should ask here for my dad. We've got a 2004 Ford Focus SE that we bought from one of my uncles. Cleaned it up, and got it working recently. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor, new plugs, wires, coil pack. It ran really well for a few weeks, then a few days ago, it started to have trouble starting. Would crank/turn over, but wouldn't start until after a five or six tries. This morning, it didn't start at all. It'll still crank/turn over, but otherwise won't do anything. Any idea what it is? We've checked everything we replaced, and are pretty much stumped.[/QUOTE] Sounds like a distributor all along, something along the lines of a bad cam/crank sensor or ICM/Coil. Follow the service manual on how to test your those sensors. [editline]28th June 2016[/editline] [QUOTE=butre;50608902]speaking of batteries in the trunk how likely to die am I if I put a battery and a fuel cell in the trunk? is it just a matter of venting everything separately to the atmosphere? I know drag racers do it all the time but I don't know if these are people who race at sanctioned tracks or not[/QUOTE] Use a solid battery like a Odyssey, store it in a properly ventilated battery box and you'll be fine. Vapor is a bitch though, it's definitely not anything to mess around with at all. All it takes is a spark in the wrong place and suddenly the whole damn thing will be up in flames. I'd look up what the sanctioning bodies' rules are on anything remotely local that you may enter or even try to enter in a pipe dream, expect to cut holes in the body for battery cutoffs though.

[QUOTE=cardfan212;50608966]I have a golf cart that I'm trying to sell, but I have no idea how to price it. It's a 1995 (I think) Columbia ParCar, gas engine, has a roof and windshield. It also has a basket and a thing to hold your golf club bag on the back. I can get pictures tomorrow. Any help with getting a price on it would be appreciated.[/QUOTE] Figure out a decent price, then double it.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;50609005]Sounds like a distributor all along, something along the lines of a bad cam/crank sensor or ICM/Coil. Follow the service manual on how to test your those sensors. [editline]28th June 2016[/editline] Use a solid battery like a Odyssey, store it in a properly ventilated battery box and you'll be fine. Vapor is a bitch though, it's definitely not anything to mess around with at all. All it takes is a spark in the wrong place and suddenly the whole damn thing will be up in flames. I'd look up what the sanctioning bodies' rules are on anything remotely local that you may enter or even try to enter in a pipe dream, expect to cut holes in the body for battery cutoffs though.[/QUOTE] this is the only time my free interstate batteries deal has ever been a problem the only places I can fit the battery are in the trunk or in the cabin. I was hoping to avoid the cab but if I have to (and am allowed to) I can. I just have to figure out a place to put the wires coming off it then since the interior is pretty spartan and there's no carpet for me to hide it under. the car is just going to do autocross, I'm not putting the kind of money into it that it would need to survive rally racing and it's going to be a 15 second car at best. more importantly it'll probably be a daily because the guy who's name it's in is a total masochist

So I want to pick up welding, I am interested in making my own exhaust piping and perhaps modify chassis parts in the racecar. It would seem like a good skill to have. So I've been reading up on welding for a bit and I'm kind of torn. I was set on getting a MIG welder but it seems that this isn't good (bad?) for welding stainless steel, as I was planning on making stainless steel exhaust systems. So the better choice for that would be TIG, but then again it would seem that TIG isn't suitable for bigger things like chassis welding. Is there anyone who does both, and can shed some light on the matter?

most tig setups are capable of running stick as well, and stick works good for chassis welding [editline]28th June 2016[/editline] or you can join us kings and go oxy fuel please note oxy fuel is basically just tig but more expensive and harder

[QUOTE=butre;50609371]most tig setups are capable of running stick as well, and stick works good for chassis welding [editline]28th June 2016[/editline] or you can join us kings and go oxy fuel please note oxy fuel is basically just tig but more expensive and harder[/QUOTE] expensive is not a skill i have

[QUOTE=butre;50609220]this is the only time my free interstate batteries deal has ever been a problem the only places I can fit the battery are in the trunk or in the cabin. I was hoping to avoid the cab but if I have to (and am allowed to) I can. I just have to figure out a place to put the wires coming off it then since the interior is pretty spartan and there's no carpet for me to hide it under. the car is just going to do autocross, I'm not putting the kind of money into it that it would need to survive rally racing and it's going to be a 15 second car at best. more importantly it'll probably be a daily because the guy who's name it's in is a total masochist[/QUOTE] Well I assume that most tech anywhere uses similar rules to each other, I know something requires a cutoff on any relocated batteries. Is the fuel cell for weight savings? I wouldn't bother with the fuel cell in a daily. You could go for a surge tank setup or get a fresh tank and weld/JB Weld in better baffles if you want the better performance out of it. I know my Civic fuel starves like a bitch anything under 1/3rd a tank, it's pretty irritating and scary when it tries to liftoff oversteer your ass because suddenly it went from blasting down a tight offramp to fuel cut. Civics have a [url=http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=971381&cc=1168512&jsn=429]garbage fuel tank design[/url] though. Then you can put your batteries back there without worry but you should be fine with a basic air tight battery box and a vent to the floor which seems to be the common setup. I'd be far more concerned about safety like this in a daily since a few heavy thrashings a year isn't nearly the same as hundreds of hours a year.

[QUOTE=butre;50608902]speaking of batteries in the trunk how likely to die am I if I put a battery and a fuel cell in the trunk? is it just a matter of venting everything separately to the atmosphere? I know drag racers do it all the time but I don't know if these are people who race at sanctioned tracks or not[/QUOTE] Nhra rules state the battery needs to be in a sealed enclosure that vents outside the trunk. Then you need a firewall placed in the trunk at least 1/16" thick. Then you need a battery and alternator kill switch mounted on the back of the car so in the event of a fire or crash a tech can shut down the electrical.

Anyone have any links to oem looking head units with bluetooth? I've been looking at the Kienzle MCR-1016BT but it's only sold in europe and shipping is 30 bucks. I've been looking at the stock units on scion frs' but they require proprietary toyota microphones and cables to get bluetooth and usb aux working.

[QUOTE=ToastedBread;50610442]Anyone have any links to oem looking head units with bluetooth? I've been looking at the Kienzle MCR-1016BT but it's only sold in europe and shipping is 30 bucks. I've been looking at the stock units on scion frs' but they require proprietary toyota microphones and cables to get bluetooth and usb aux working.[/QUOTE] this is interesting news to me. I have a Scion IQ. So if I ever want to replace the head unit, I would run into proprietary Toyota connectors and would be limited only to scion head units? Is that what you're saying here? because that'd suck. but I would like one of the scion touchscreen units. would it be possible to have a rear-view camera attached to the regular scion touchscreen head units? I wouldn't make the upgrade unless I could do the rear view camera also, that's really all I want the screen for.

You can get adapters that'll adapt your aftermarket headunit to your Scion. The other way around is harder.

If you really really love your Scion screen there's kits to add to factory, but the aftermarket realm gives you sooo many more options, especially for smart phone integration.

[QUOTE=clutch2;50611360]If you really really love your Scion screen there's kits to add to factory, but the aftermarket realm gives you sooo many more options, especially for smart phone integration.[/QUOTE] I know you're referring to the other guy, but as someone who doesn't have a unit with a screen already, you're basically saying I should probably go third party regardless? Like I said before I'm mostly just looking for a rear view camera.

I drove the Merc to Sweden today. I'm really going to miss that power...

[QUOTE=J Paul;50611436]I know you're referring to the other guy, but as someone who doesn't have a unit with a screen already, you're basically saying I should probably go third party regardless? Like I said before I'm mostly just looking for a rear view camera.[/QUOTE] I think he was talking to you, dude. Anyway, I think I've thrown out the idea of putting the scion non-touchscreen unit in the mr2, the toyota specific microphone and usb/aux harness makes it a bit too expensive when, for the same price, I could just get a decent touch unit like the Pioneer AVH-280BT just like in my truck. It's also not a standard double din size (slightly bigger), so it might be more headache than it's worth. [t]http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5700/c423e/products/2568/images/14227/1__13907.1399172250.1280.1280.jpg?c=2[/t] It [I]would[/I] look right at home though. I might just import a Kienzle because it looks so 90's stock with bluetooth capability. I don't mind the occasional german word popping up on the screen once in a while. :v: Oh and it looks like EU radio bands are similar to the ones in the US, so it all works out! [t]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g190/denne046/IMGP0807_zpscf11f0ff.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=ToastedBread;50611715]I think he was talking to you, dude. Anyway, I think I've thrown out the idea of putting the scion non-touchscreen unit in the mr2, the toyota specific microphone and usb/aux harness makes it a bit too expensive when, for the same price, I could just get a decent touch unit like the Pioneer AVH-280BT just like in my truck. It's also not a standard double din size (slightly bigger), so it might be more headache than it's worth. [t]http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5700/c423e/products/2568/images/14227/1__13907.1399172250.1280.1280.jpg?c=2[/t] It [I]would[/I] look right at home though. I might just import a Kienzle because it looks so 90's stock with bluetooth capability. I don't mind the occasional german word popping up on the screen once in a while. :v: Oh and it looks like EU radio bands are similar to the ones in the US, so it all works out! [t]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g190/denne046/IMGP0807_zpscf11f0ff.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] I have a classic blaupunkt if you need some German head unit tech. It does work.

[QUOTE=Strontboer;50609350]So I want to pick up welding, I am interested in making my own exhaust piping and perhaps modify chassis parts in the racecar. It would seem like a good skill to have. So I've been reading up on welding for a bit and I'm kind of torn. I was set on getting a MIG welder but it seems that this isn't good (bad?) for welding stainless steel, as I was planning on making stainless steel exhaust systems. So the better choice for that would be TIG, but then again it would seem that TIG isn't suitable for bigger things like chassis welding. Is there anyone who does both, and can shed some light on the matter?[/QUOTE] There is litterly no reason out of the gate you must be able to do EVERYTHING. If you want to jump out and buy a multi box than get ready to spill alot of money. And remember All in ones are not exactly great at doing everything. Some do lack the nice tig and mig features.

i got my license friendos B)